Catalog: Archives: Estate Jewelry (467)

How often does one find an Enrique Ledesma starburst pendant? And if one does come upon an example, how often is it of such astonishing proportions? Let me answer my own question then - not often at all! Yet here I am presenting you with one and it is spectacular. Having a huge flat-cut color-change sapphire (synthetic corundum) at its heart , the pendant shoots out eight elegant sterling rays, their slender bodies curving away from the center to end in flattened drop shapes...

What with their bows and their beading Margot de Taxco's "cornflower" earrings are the epitome of retro elegance. The set presented here is, I believe, the smaller version of the design but I love it for its easy-to-enjoy size and the wonderful patina that enhances the sculptural appeal of the floral dangles. A classic in Margot's repertoire, the pair is always "en vogue" and adds that distinct quality to one's appearance that makes heads turn...

Following in the tradition of Mexico City “jeweled” jewelry closely associated with Matilde Poulat, this Mexican Deco silver and amethyst cross pendant necklace is not signed for maker yet its rich patina, beautiful stones and exceptional chain more than compensate for the absence. I could hardly exaggerate how rare it is to find a repousse chain of this beauty, let alone one adorned with richly colored amethyst cabs...

Working out of San Miguel de Allende, Carmen Beckmann is one of the “second generation” (if I may be allowed the term here) designer / silversmiths who contributed to Mexico’s 20th c. Silver Renaissance. In her work, Beckmann is often inspired by ancient Maya and Aztec motifs to which she adds her unique modernist “twist” - quite successfully in my opinion at least...

Referred to as the “shells” or sometimes even “snails” bracelet, Margot de Taxco’s des. 5104 is a series of fleshy, perfectly swirling repousse links that feel so comfortable around the wrist, you might take them as an extension of your body. The example at hand vibrates with that warm light only well-aged, well-loved silver acquires and the thick sterling sheet used to craft the bracelet has allowed it to mature without burdening it with the scars and blemishes of age...

Carved in translucent amethyst the “mask” adorning the Piedra y Plata silver ring presented here bespeaks Felipe Martinez’s talent as a sculptor. His jewelry, always combining sterling with the most amazing stones, showcases some of the best lapidary work in the world of vintage Mexican jewelry and his “masks”, I consider some of the most evocative, spiritual examples in the field...

Antonio Pineda cuffs don't surface very often and this specific design is even more difficult to find. An ode to the art of a-symmetry, the cuff is wrought in the maestro's favorite fine ,.970 alloy and quite substantial. The stone that adorns its widest end, rich in greens and blues, is agate, I think, but it might be a very special kind of turquoise as well. Warm patina, perfectly conveyed less-is-more attitude and Antonio's exquisite finishing are all present here to please the eye...

A stunning Antonio Pineda modernist bracelet, its rectangular, slick links held together with bezel-set carnelian connectors, each one of which features a daringly protruding silver “tongue”. I love the gutsyness of the design and the mischievous sense of humor behind it but I am also taken with the rich color in the stones which changes hue as it responds to the changing light...

Made in the very late 1940s or in the opening years of the 1950s at the latest, this Marcel Boucher sterling silver necklace is a Mexican piece from the renowned designer’s “Parisina” line. Parisina pieces are not easy to find - Boucher had them made in Mexico for a few years around WWII because the war effort had put restrictions in the availability and use of silver. Yet this specific design, I have never encountered before ...

An early Mexico City (I will suggest) maestro, P. Ochoa must have been a contemporary of Matilde Poulat’s and M. Velazquez’s. His work, wrought in the same “Mexico City” style of repoussage which for me represents the country’s Arts and Crafts version in jewelry-making, is very rare to come upon but, I think, of the highest quality...

One of the few female designers of Mexico’s 20th c. Silver Renaissance that we know of, Erika Hult de Corral excelled in the creation of slick abstract and brutalist jewelry. She started creating her own work in Taxco’s “middle period” and continued being active in the post-1980 years as well. Big, bold and beautiful, the result of the artist’s few yet perfectly placed brushstrokes, the dove-shaped pendant at hand conveys that precious sense of elegant, unimpeded motion...

One of my favorite sub-genres in the world of vintage Mexican silver jewelry includes those early Deco repousse brooches wrought in the usually referred to as the “Mexico City style”, the most famous proponent of which is, undoubtedly, Matilde Poulat. Quite often anonymous, as in our case, these pieces can be fascinatingly weird, at times even bordering on the surreal...

Set in a raised bezel on a hand-hammered sterling platform the “mask” in this vintage Carmen Beckmann brooch is carved out of dyed calcite, often - and mistakenly - referred to as “jade”. Oxidation and a geometric glyph applique add complexity to the design and the portrait’s minimalist rendition brings to mind the more austere of ancient artifacts unearthed from the Mexican soil...

In the last couple of years I found myself drawn closer and closer to the jewelry created by the Los Ballesteros workshop. I am especially attracted to their “mask” pieces in all the forms they can be found as well as to what I like to call their “hinged bangle” bracelets. I consider both kinds the absolute jewel in the taller’s creative crown and it seems that there is always something new and different to discover. The perfectly carved tiger’s eye “Joker” pendant is a piece I h...

Symbols of hope for fresh, new beginnings swallows are an integral part of the advent of Spring in my home country and I grew up waiting for a glimpse of their bifurcated tails and soft, white bellies as a sign that the end of the school year and the fun-filled days on the beach were not far away. In Victorian symbolism the birds express enduring love and loyalty and the promise of a safe return back home and it is these hopes the set of Mexican silver earrings at hand encapsulates. Very sculptu...

Based in Mexico City Plateria FarFan created some of the most impressive and well-made collar necklaces, many in the multi-row "mesh" style and others in puzzle “Cleopatra style” designs. The necklace presented here is one of the latter, a pretty handsome one at that and a favorite of mine for the comfortable, just-at-home way in lies around the neck. I consider myself most lucky because I have also the matching bracelet to it and even though the two will be listed separately, there is nothi...

With delicately carved features, this silver and tiger’s eye Egyptian Revival “Cleopatra” bolo tie is a small work of art that came out of the Los Ballesteros workshop. One of the best - and definitely the most persistent - Taxco talleres involved in the creation of exquisite “mask” jewelry, the Los Ballesteros used an array of semi-precious and hard- stones to create serene, out-of-this-world effigies for brooches, rings, bracelets and pendants. This is, however, my first bolo tie b...

Ethereal, barely touching the ground, light as a feather and lost in the music to which she is dancing, this vintage Marcel Boucher ballerina was crafted in the mid-1940s in Mexico for the renowned designer’s Parisina line. Wrought in sterling, she has a teardrop piece of lapis for her bodice and she is magnificent. Generous in size though light enough to be worn on a silk blouse, the brooch has all the qualities of the best minimalist designs - economy of lines, honesty of materials and stron...