Catalog: Estate Jewelry (316)

Crafted in the late 1950s or in the 1960s, this sterling silver Mexican necklace is signed by Victoria or Ana Maria Nunez de Brilanti. Victoria is one of the few female designers and silversmiths of Taxco’s 20th c. Silver Renaissance that we know of and she is credited, among others, for perfecting the “metales casados” or “married metals” technique. In this necklace, however, she adds a modernist twist to an otherwise “archeological” design...

Made in one of the countries of mainland South-east Asia which were, at the time, under French colonial control, this silver repousse brooch bespeaks the level of craftsmanship local silversmiths had attained and their attention to composition and design execution. Hand-crafted during the first decades of the 20th c., I believe, the brooch is characteristic of the style and techniques that flourished in that area of the world...

Part of an assembled demi parure the bracelet of which I will be presenting in the next couple of days, this sterling silver Danish necklace is one of Jensen’s classic designs. Elegance and impeccable craftsmanship defy the whims of time and fashion and here we have a piece of jewelry that falls under that magical category. These earlier creations of Jensen’s retain the soft, silky sculpturality of Danish Skønvirke work and the patina the silver develops over time only enhances that quality...

Based on an Antonio Pineda design this Mexican modernist silver necklace by Cheo I would go as far as to describe as "industrial"! The oblong sterling links and the concave oval connectors are characterized by strong geometry and have an intense "utilitarian" vibe about them. And the opaque green "onyx" glass bars they encompass mirror that "no fuss" attitude. Cheo is one of those workshops we don't know much about but I have seen their work several times over the years...

A substantial set from Taxco's "middle period" this stunning necklace and earrings demi combines chunky cylinders of azur-malachite with shadow-box sterling box links. The result is quite impressive as the primarily green hues of the stone (the malachite is predominant here) are tempered by the variegated brown of the inclusions, all colors finally reflected in the glowing silver. I love a good chain necklace and this example combines good length with a presence that will never go unattended...

I don’t often use the expression “Holy Grail” but Tane’s “Tarascan” necklace is one of those few pieces in the world of vintage Mexican silver jewelry that deserves it. Especially if it bears pre-1980 hallmarks - which is the case here. Habitually referred to as “the Tiffany’s of Mexico”, Tane has been producing holloware and jewelry in silver and gold since 1942 and is known throughout the world for the quality of craftsmanship, impeccable design and perfect finishing...

Owned and operated by the Scarpelli family in Florence, Italy, "Le Pietre nell' Arte" gallery specializes in the art of "pietra dura" jewelry and larger works of art. Accompanied by its original box, the combination pin / pendant at hand, its vermeil finish still glistening as if it came out of the shop just yesterday, is a small treasure made by one of the family's maestros...

Ideal for Mother's Day (yes, there is still time to bring it home) this antique Victorian brooch is perfect to show your love and affection year round as well - whether to somebody else or yourself is up to you to decide! Wrought in the aesthetic style its decorative elements develop on different plains thus adding architectural interest and a dramatic depth of field...

A carefully crafted copy of one of Hubert Harmon's Mexican designs, this fabulous sterling silver and amethyst belt buckle is anonymous yet, as quite often is the case, the lack of a signature does not affect the piece's quality and beauty. Based on the workmanship I suspect this may be a Casa Maya example. Casa Maya issued many of Harmon's designs in brass primarily yet they did make them in sterling as well and quite often pieces in their parures went out in the marked without full hallmarks...

Based on Salvador Teran's sought-after "dancers" design, the bracelet I am presenting here was crafted in the period the renowned Mexican modernist was active by one of his contemporary Taxco maestros. Absolute minimalism, strong graphics and a sense of unencumbered, fluid motion characterize the figural overlay which dominates the shadow-box construction of the three central links...

One of my favorite "less celebrated" Taxco maestros, Gerardo Lopez has been steadily gaining in popularity among collectors of vintage Mexican silver jewelry. I suspect that he worked for the Los Castillo and / or Margot de Taxco before he started his own taller as his creations are often reminiscent of designs issued by both famous workshops. Lopez's repoussage is masterful and the finishing on his jewelry impeccable...

"Like mother like daughter" (and why not? father and son as well) is what came to mind when I saw this sweet Mexican silver and turquoise "baby" cuff bracelet. Beautifully stamped with ornamentation in the Native American / Southwestern style and centered by a rich blue turquoise stone with warm dark brown matrix the cuff is, of course, also ideal for those of us out there with very small wrists...

Vintage Topazio Portuguese sterling silver hinged bangle bracelet in a classic for the genre "harvest calendar" design in which different months of the year are illustrated by either a flower, fruit or other staple that characterizes them. I love these bracelets for their representation of the cyclical nature of time and their allusion to earlier decades when the availability of food depended on one's location and the specific season...

Matching the "festoon with teardrops" necklace I recently sold, this set of earrings by the Los Castillo workshop is truly glamorous! I love the flair of the bifurcated element at the top with its curvaceous central semi-sphere which mirrors the sculptural elegance of the teardrop. And, please, note the playful articulation of the semi-circular links forming the main dangle. Aren't they just a pleasure? The earrings measure 1 3/4" long by 1 1/4" wide and weigh 17.5 grams (for the set)...

The "less-is-more" philosophy of modernism and the classic, for Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance, marriage of silver and amethyst come together in this minimalist by-pass ring signed by Doris Corpus Artisans. A daring, Texas-born American who decided to move to Mexico in the 1940s, Doris Smith Chamberlin had her own workshop by 1945 and her commitment to perfection and inspired design resulted in the creation of some truly exceptional jewelry. I have in the past offered examples of the work c...

A masterfully crafted, meticulously finished frame of sterling lily pads accented with tiny beading and elegant little wire swirls surrounds a flat-top amethyst gem in the vintage studio ring I am presenting here. This type of silver-work and the specific foliate motif is easily identified as created by Mary Gage, one of the most talented - and indeed most eccentric - silversmiths of the late American Arts and Crafts movement. I have had a few pieces by Gage over the years - she does not seem to...

A fabulous example of Taxco modernism by Los Ballesteros, this vintage Mexican silver and amethyst bracelet is as beautiful to look at as it is comfortable to wear. A couple of days ago I presented another creation by the same workshop and I will suggest that the two pieces are representative of their line of medium-width modernist link bracelets. In the last few years, I have come to realize that the Los Ballesteros maestros succeeded in pushing their ranking higher and higher up in my hierarch...

One of the classiest and most classic Mexican Deco jewelry designs, the "shield" necklace is associated with the names of Fred Davis and Abraham Paz but has also been made by other, contemporary maestros both anonymous and "less celebrated". Our sterling and dyed green calcite example belongs in the latter group but, as I have pointed out many times in the past, its "anonymity" does not take away at all from its craftsmanship and good looks. I am fascinated by the myriad of ways in which calcite...