Catalog: Estate Jewelry (311)

Matching the "festoon with teardrops" necklace I recently sold, this set of earrings by the Los Castillo workshop is truly glamorous! I love the flair of the bifurcated element at the top with its curvaceous central semi-sphere which mirrors the sculptural elegance of the teardrop. And, please, note the playful articulation of the semi-circular links forming the main dangle. Aren't they just a pleasure? The earrings measure 1 3/4" long by 1 1/4" wide and weigh 17.5 grams (for the set)...

The "less-is-more" philosophy of modernism and the classic, for Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance, marriage of silver and amethyst come together in this minimalist by-pass ring signed by Doris Corpus Artisans. A daring, Texas-born American who decided to move to Mexico in the 1940s, Doris Smith Chamberlin had her own workshop by 1945 and her commitment to perfection and inspired design resulted in the creation of some truly exceptional jewelry...

A masterfully crafted, meticulously finished frame of sterling lily pads accented with tiny beading and elegant little wire swirls surrounds a flat-top amethyst gem in the vintage studio ring I am presenting here. This type of silver-work and the specific foliate motif is easily identified as created by Mary Gage, one of the most talented - and indeed most eccentric - silversmiths of the late American Arts and Crafts movement...

A fabulous example of Taxco modernism by Los Ballesteros, this vintage Mexican silver and amethyst bracelet is as beautiful to look at as it is comfortable to wear. A couple of days ago I presented another creation by the same workshop and I will suggest that the two pieces are representative of their line of medium-width modernist link bracelets...

Deeply carved ancient Aztec motifs adorn this Mexican Deco cuff bracelet by Taxco’s foremost designer, William Spratling. This is one of his earliest and probably quite popular cuffs since it was kept in production for a while as alluded to by the late Phyllis Goddard. Wrought in sterling silver in our case, its labyrinthine beauty makes it difficult for the eye to disengage and its comfortable weight feels divine around the wrist...

One of the classiest and most classic Mexican Deco jewelry designs, the "shield" necklace is associated with the names of Fred Davis and Abraham Paz but has also been made by other, contemporary maestros both anonymous and "less celebrated". Our sterling and dyed green calcite example belongs in the latter group but, as I have pointed out many times in the past, its "anonymity" does not take away at all from its craftsmanship and good looks...

Vintage 1980s Talleres de Los Ballesteros Mexican modernist bracelet wrought in Antonio Pineda’s favorite .970 alloy which is richer in silver content than the standard sterling, this is a heavy, architectural piece adorned with clear, faceted, gem-quality amethysts. The stones are open on the back to maximize the effect created by the light as it passes through them and the all-silver links are substantial and very sculptural...

I am thrilled to be presenting you with this Mexican Deco silver and amethyst glass “masks” and cabs bracelet. This type of multi-row repousse semi-spheres bangle (I like to think of similar bracelets as glorified hinged bangles indeed!) is one of the most sought-after forms in the world of vintage jewelry from Mexico...

Silver lipstick cases / holders from Italy are not a rare occurrence yet how often do you come upon a signed Peruzzi example? As difficult to find as it is beautiful, this one has it all - the signature, the warm patina, the delicate floral etched decoration and tiny little sparkling red rhinestones at the center of each dainty flower. Even the tab that holds the pop-up mirror is shaped like a multi-petaled bloom. A collector's dream-come-true the case measures 2/3" wide and deep by 2 3/8" tall...

The story of this Mexican Deco silver and turquoise hinged bangle is an interesting one. When it came to me, it had a rather hastily applied gold plating that looked both out of place and, should I say?, garish. I cannot understand why anybody would do such a thing yet many a time, in discussions with older bench jewelers, I have been told that a few decades ago this was indeed a trend of sorts...

One of the most beautiful early Taxco brooches I have had over the years, this glorious butterfly combines delicate repoussage and the marrying of copper and 980 silver with a richly colored piece of azur-malachite. Copper-plating fine silver is not something everything would think to do - after all, one is a precious metal, the other, though very important throughout history, is not...

I have had this mod Taxco bracelet a few times over the years - also in ring, earrings and brooch form. And I never tire of it! The example at hand is signed by maestro Moreno and it has the beguiling sculpturality that makes the design memorable. Two perfectly crafted silver spheres sitting on stylized leaves - that is all yet it is so much more. Gutsy, slick and eye-catching at the same time - definitely a bracelet for the daring among us...

My second belt buckle for the day, this is a completely different piece from the Los Castillo example I already presented. Hand-wrought in sterling silver it is big, bold and absolutely beautiful. Inspired by the world that surrounds us, it is just one of those treasures that defy my photographic skills and I am afraid I failed to impart the silky sculpturality of its heart-shaped floral motifs...

A mid-century Los Castillo Mexican silver and stone inlay belt buckle, this is a piece out the workshop's "onix negro" series. I have said before that the specific technique is a challenging one both for the silversmith and the lapidary as the stone has to be cut exactly to the dimensions of the silver elements that will be inlaid in it...

An early design by the Los Castillo taller (could it have been created by their cousin, Salvador Teran, when he was still working for them?), the “fish skeleton” is considered a classic and has seen many emulations and reproductions over the years. The hinged bracelet at hand, wrought in thick silver sheet with copper bead accents, is a modernist treasure that was made for small wrists. Ideal for all of us who love vintage Mexican clampers but can never enjoy them because they are usually...

Rare to find and quintessentially Mexican Deco, especially if we are looking at the Mexico City school repousse pieces, these sterling silver rings with their carved stone "masquettes" are the dedicated collector's dream. Yet you don't have to be a collector to enjoy their unique character. What always attracted me to them is their "Arts and Crafts" style silver work which allows you to follow the maestro's creative journey by tracing the marks his/her tools left on the precious metal. Coveted a...

One of the better known "less celebrated" maestros of Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance, AEM (or, as I like to refer to him, AE Heart because of the heart-shaped M that hugs the signature's other two initials) lived and worked in Mexico City. Of good weight and exhibiting very good craftsmanship, AEM's jewelry often emulate pieces by his more famous contemporaries but he created many original designs himself as well. I am particularly attracted to his hinged bangle bracelets and I also love hi...

Offered here as a pair, these beautiful vintage heishi necklaces are made up of slender shell disks, turquoise, silver and glass beads and what I think are most probably shark teeth. They have been with me for a long, long time and I always thought I would combine them into one longer piece yet never gotten around to it. So it's time for them to go to a new, loving home where they will be worn and enjoyed once again. Please note the rich colors of the turquoise chunks and the wonderful patina th...