Catalog: Estate Jewelry (310)

An early Mexican Deco silver repousse "mask" brooch, this pieces is wrought in sterling and its maker adorned their portrait with a long, dangling earring. It is evident from the piece's craftsmanship that its creator was well-trained maestro. Despite the thinner gauge of sterling sheet used, there is depth and good definition in the repoussage which result in easily "readable" details and good sculpturality...

Pendant necklaces are a favorite of mine - I love their versatility and the fact that I can layer them whichever way I want. Luckilly, there is a fabulous selection within the world of vintage Mexican silver jewelry to choose from but I feel particularly lucky to have come upon an example of a classic Taxco design that is, however, smaller in scale than pendants of this design usually in...

Meticulously worked and perfectly finished this antique silver repousse cuff bracelet is obviously of Asian origin but I am not quite sure of its exact provenance. I don’t profess any kind of deeper knowledge in the world of Asian jewelry and the existence of cross-pollination and diasporic artisan communities throughout the region (the Indian and Chinese being prominent among them) make its identification a challenge for me...

How often does one find a ring by renowned Taxco modernist Enrique Ledesma? Let me answer my question - almost never! Over the years of my buying, selling and researching vintage Mexican silver jewelry, I have come upon a few examples, almost all of them adorned with a color-change sapphire. I had never seen a ring in the design I am presenting here until I discovered this one some time ago...

When I first started my love-affair with vintage Mexican silver jewelry, I found myself intrigued by the work of artists whose names were not among the first ones a new collector would focus on. I love a challenge and seeking out “less celebrated” maestros who nevertheless created superbly crafted jewelry in imaginative designs became my “mission”...

Richly colored azur-malachite stone is paired with warmly glowing sterling in this chunky modernist Mexican silver bracelet signed by none other than the maestro of Piedra y Plata, Felipe Martinez. Martinez is one of my absolute favorite Taxco silversmith and a superb lapidary as well. He has an uncanny ability to pair silver with stone that works every single time, as if the two materials were just made to be together...

Impressive in size this vintage Janna Thomas Mexican silver pendant is an example of the "pluma Azteca" technique which incorporates vividly colored bird feathers in sterling jewelry. Very reminiscent of plique-a-jour work, "pluma Azteca" was introduced by the Los Castillo workshop and it is a demanding, difficult process so it was emulated by just a handful of other Taxco maestros. Thomas excelled in it, however, and her pieces are sought after by knowledgeable collectors...

It's been a very long time since I offered a Mexican clamper bracelet and I am happy to be starting again with a classic Taxco design, this repousse and shadowbox "Quetzalcoatl" example. The maestro who signs it I am familiar with - he worked in Taxco and it seems that clamper bracelets were one of his favorite forms...

Bold, colorful and generously long this vintage Mexican chain necklace is signed by Cecilia and Tono, one of Taxco's most successful duos. The combination of chunky amethyst, slender sterling tubes and lozenge stations embellished with azur-malachite inlay is undoubtedly eye-catching and I love the irregular shape of the stone beads which underscores their hand-cut quality. Wear it alone or combine it with similar pieces, the result will be stunning either way...

Maestro Ocampo's work I have come to appreciate over the years for its good craftsmanship and attention to finishing yet it's been a long time since I offered a piece by him. Quite often his jewelry is inspired by the creations of the bigger talleres and if I am not mistaken, the bracelet at hand is based on a Los Castillo design. The technique employed is also something the Los Castillo tried their hand at...

Very much in the style associated with Matilde Poulat and often referred to as "Mexico City repousse" this sweet little silver "serpent scales" bracelet is adorned with an amethyst cabochon in its central station. An early example of this "school", it is an honest attempt to emulate the "grand dame" of Mexican silver jewelry albeit in a more demure, smaller scale than most of Matl's work...

I acquired this pair of Miguel Melendez’s hinged bangles as a set some time ago and after long deliberations, I decided that they should continue in life as such. Miguel is one of Taxco’s modernists yet he honed his skills at Spratling’s Las Delicias and working for Margot de Taxco for many years. This specific design is a favorite of mine’s by him - it brings to mind rock formations and I love the interplay of negative and positive space...

One of the most successful duo in Taxco’s 20th c. Silver Renaissance, Cecilia and Tono excelled in some of the most difficult techniques in jewelry making like piedra negra, metales casados and mozaico Azteca. Their jewelry is usually modernist yet their designs unfailingly reference Mexico’s rich archeological heritage...

Designed by Karin Pedersen for JemAx of Denmark, this sterling silver vermeil and white enamel brooch is such a great example of Scandinavian minimalist / modernist design from the 1960s and 1970s. I love the pearlescence of the white here and the way its translucence brings out the guilloche motifs in the silver underneath. White is a gorgeous color in Scandinavian enamelwork and it pairs perfectly with darker, more subdued hue time and loving use has bestowed to the vermeil finish...

Crafted of 14k yellow gold and housing a silver coin that shows chariot horses and their charioteer this impressive, towering ring is, I believe, of Greek extraction. The coin is a reproduction of an ancient Macedonian piece from the time of Phillip II, the father of Alexander the Great - part of the king's name in Greek letters "...ΛΙΠΠΟΥ" (of Philip) can be seen under the beasts' hind legs. The chunky, generously heavy shank and setting are shaped in an "architectural" form that is chara...

A book piece for Sigi Pineda, the “boomerang” brooch belongs in a line of jewelry in which the Taxco modernist combined layering, purposefully applied oxidation and vividly colored semi-precious and hard- stones to create slick, modernist, I would even say space-age, designs that seems as relevant today as they did when they were first introduced to the world. What I always found amazing about this brooch is the ingenious - and quite minimal - way the stone (chrysoprase in our case) is incor...

Dating in the earlier period of Matilde Poulat’s extraordinary career, the cross pendant presented here is adorned with Matl’s favorite stones - turquoise, amethyst and coral. Inspired by Mexico’s rich folk art, it belongs in her daringly eye-catching series of “jeweled” creations but here, there is an additional motif that makes the pendant even more precious. Namely, the two small repousse angel dangles, facing each other in a kneeling position with lit candles in their hands. The st...

Generously long and imposing in its presence, this early Mexican Deco silver, copper and stone necklace with cascabeles is a great example of the way ancient Mesoamerican artifacts found their way into jewelry created during the country's 20th c. Silver Renaissance. Statuettes, clay "masks", beads of stone and silver, carved pieces of bone were unearthed on a daily basis in Mexico's countryside either by accident as people worked the land or as a result of deliberate "digging" to find them. Many...