Catalog: Estate Jewelry (317)

Profusely studded with the Etruscan style’s tell-tale florets this long Mexican lariat necklace was made in Cuernavaca, one of the country’s main silver-smithing centers. A rather rare jewel of the Deco period, it consists of a long strand of short barrel beads strung on flexible silver wire. Classically elegant yet with body and strong presence, the necklace has developed a deep patina over the years...

I have written in the past that Elna jewelry is more often than not very generous in proportions but this stunner of a bracelet goes above and beyond that! It is not just its sheer monumentality that impresses. It is also the classically "archaeological" character of the design itself which is expressed by the carved stone "mask" of an ancient Aztec Eagle warrior. Awesome in its military magnificence, the portrait is flanked by highly stylized butterfly (?) links with big cabochons set in bezels...

Saturated blues and greens juxtaposed to the warm glow of well-aged silver soften the austere geometry of this Los Castillo modernist cuff bracelet. Out of the workshop’s “mozaico Azteca” line which celebrates the art of seamless inlay, the cuff is also showcasing the beauty of azur-malachite. There is nothing superfluous here - economy of design, honesty of materials and craftsmanship of the highest level combine in a visual power-house, a piece of mid-century wearable art...

Perfect for those breezy nights by the beach, this vintage Mexican silver Carmen Beckmann brooch is shaped like a starfish (some see it as a sea anemone too) and centered by a turquoise of the softest sea foam color. I love Beckmann jewelry - when she was inspired, she created some amazing pieces. Simple yet not simplistic, the almost abstract a-symmetry of the silver work is reflected in the shape of the stone...

An exquisite example of Italian Renaissance Revival jewelry that were so popular with tourists on their Grand Tour at the turn and first few decades of the 20th c. this long pendant necklace is the epitome of “figural”. Not only is its chain interspersed with links representing iconic Italian monuments and coats of arms, its large pendant is a work of art too. I will suggest that the central figure is maybe inspired by Verrocchio’s “Child and Dolphin”...

Molten caramel golds and shimmering coffee browns are reflected in warmly mellowed silver in this modernist Mexican pendant necklace with neck ring. Very Scandinavian in design, necklaces of this type are not very common in the world of vintage Mexican jewelry and I consider myself even luckier to have come upon this exquisite example because it is also a pre-1980 creation...

The "queen" of shadowbox designs, Victoria - otherwise Ana Maria Nunez de Brilanti - also excelled in the "married metals" technique. Her work is inspired, of the highest quality and today it is considered part of Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance design index. The adjustable sterling silver ring I am presenting here is out of her coveted "angel" parure. The form does not come up very often and I am happy to have come upon a beautifully aged example...

Striding the divide between classic Mexican and Native American / Southwestern design this sterling silver bracelet is one of the most beautiful examples of the “marriage” I have seen. This hybridization is not, in fact, accidental as it is known from the relevant literature that Mexican maestros were a significant factor in the development of Native American silversmithing...

Spanish Colonial in inspiration with their heart-shaped wire-work and tiny little beading this set of sterling silver and amethyst dangle earrings is a Mexican Deco treasure. Securely set in their bezels, full of inclusions that shroud their depths in mystery, the stones are carved in the shape of leaves which hang off richly colored amethyst cabs. Big, bold, beautiful yet also so romantic and full of nostalgia...

Made in Mexico City and following the “Matl school of repoussage” this early Deco silver and turquoise bracelet is anonymous and … gorgeous. Textured repousse feather motifs are predominant here, an allusion to the divine Feathered Serpent of ancient Mesoamerican civilizations. I have always thought that this specific type of work that allows you to follow the maestro’s hand as it works the silver could easily be considered Mexico’s Arts and Crafts expression...

A retail shop in Taxco, Margarita was a place were one could buy jewelry by many local maestros, according to Bille Hougart. The long, beautifully made dangle earrings presented here bear only the shop’s name without a specific maker’s signature yet this does not affect their quality at all...

One of my favorite “less celebrated” early Mexican maestros, AEM (or AE Heart as he is also referred to because of the way he signs his work) had his workshop in Mexico City and he created some really nice pieces. It has been a long time since I presented something by him but this set of “mesh and bead” dangle earrings more than compensates for the gap...

Made in Porto as is indicated by the hallmarks it bears, this vintage sterling hinged bangle is adorned all around with a repousse architectural design. Crisply rendered, the motifs are easily readable to the eye and the juxtaposition between raised surfaces and recesses enhances the bracelet’s sculpturality...

An applied shimmering sterling double boomerang, riveted on the highly polished and oxidized body catches the eye in this vintage Mexican silver bracelet by renowned Taxco modernist Enrique Ledesma. A successful marriage of the link and bangle forms, it is made up of three articulated “wings” and when worn maintains is circular shape perfectly. It’s been a while since I offered an example of this specific Ledesma line and I am very happy to be presenting this piece today. An erudite illust...

Bearing the signature of Sanborn’s, the legendary Mexico City department store’s over whose antiquities and fine arts division Fred Davis was a supervisor in the mid-1930s, this wide, exuberant cuff bracelet is a classic for the genre. Repousse cuffs of this style came to be closely associated with Sanborn’s and Maciel though they were made by other, anonymous and “less celebrated” makers as well. The “Aztec Rose” design that covers the entirety of the bracelet’s surface here mus...

One of Taxco's most famous modernists Sigi Pineda was also a very prolific designer and at his best moments, truly inspired. I am used to seeing minimalist, fluid pieces by him and the brooch at hand, wrought in sterling silver and adorned with a teardrop-shaped obsidian, is the result of a good moment indeed. This is a pin that invites the touch unabashedly - it might be the glowing silver body; it might be that magical piece of obsidian with its silvery depths but it simply invites the fingers...

Bearing the signature of Pedro Castillo who opened his own workshop in 1940, after having worked for both William Spratling and Hector Aguilar this early Taxco modernist necklace is made using the overlay technique which has also been enhanced by purposeful oxidation. Perfectly finished, it has generous weight and at just a hair less than 16", it is not only a gorgeous piece to wear but it is quite comfortable. Let me end by saying that its abstract design, so representative of Taxco's early mod...

Deeply carved so as to represent folds in a fancy bow tie the green agate in this big Mexican Deco brooch has beautiful color variation and is pleasantly "soft" to the touch. The substantial stone is generously backed in silver and held in place with sturdy, hand-wrought prongs. Classically Deco, I also find it rather tongue-in-cheek, an elegant "mockery" of the stiffness of "proper attire". The brooch measures 3" wide by 1 1/2" tall and weighs 33.6 grams. It is marked "SILVER MEXICO", dates in ...