Catalog: Estate Jewelry (317)

Impressively long and beguilingly slick with its glowing tapering dangles half-hiding a bullet-shaped piece of black onyx, this is one of Antonio Pineda’s most eye-catching set of earrings. Simple yet visually strong lines that re-affirm the philosophy of less-is-more in the world of adornment; smooth as silk, dancer-like motion; fleshy geometry (if you allow me the word combination), all come together and become a piece of wearable art in the hands of Mexico’s modernist magician...

I love the Los Ballesteros family of massive, “dimpled dot” hinged bracelets and I am constantly on the look out for great examples. Wrought in sterling silver and adorned with a big, bezel-set agate cabochon that celebrates all hues of green, this beauty is a variation of the version with amethyst that is also available on my site...

Who among lovers of vintage Mexican silver jewelry does not know Margot de Taxco's zodiac treasures? Charms, pendant, charm bracelets and brooches, they come in all those forms and they are avidly collected. Yet how many times have you come upon a mini, almost lingerie size, Margot astrological pin? Rare and sweet as can be, this 1 1/2" Aries beauty is irresistible. I can easily see it worn alongside one of its.....

Very reminiscent of jewelry created in the 1950s by Graziella Laffi, the Italian-born jewelry designer habitually referred to as “the Spratling of Peru”, this is a rarely surfacing creation of Carmen Beckmann’s. Thick, hand-hammered silver sheet that was then oxidized is used to form the bracelet’s main body. Upon that an impressive fish applique marries the piece’s Arts and Crafts feeling with the stylization of ancient Meso-american glyphs...

When life hands you lemons, you make lemonade and when it hands you an orphan cuff link, you have it converted into a ring. I have always been very partial to pieces of jewelry that would normally come in pairs but lost their partner over the course of their adventurous life...

Jewelry hosting carved stone hearts in silver settings was very popular in the Mexican Deco period. Teased out of jasper and agate and oftentimes even dyed calcite, the hearts are unfailingly curvaceous as if pulsing with life, their sculpturality shamelessly inviting the touch. The carvings usually dominate the piece with the silver-work providing discreet framing and even though the motif was taken up again in the post-1980 period, the later examples lack the vivacity of the old pieces...

Impressive takes on a whole different meaning when the work of the Los Castillo taller is concerned - and the wide, exuberantly vibrant floral and foliate repousse bracelet I am presenting here proves the point. Continuing in the 1940s’ spirit that called for designs derived from nature in jewelry production, this piece is a celebration of everything verdant - organic in an unexpected way, full of movement, reaching for the sunlight, twisting and twirling with the wind...

Stern and solemn, a gorgeous example of classic Mexican Deco lapidary work, the chrysoprase “mask” centering the silver pendant at hand looks dignified and at ease, completely unaffected by the weight of its ornate headdress. The hefty, entirely hand-wrought chain that accompanies it is, I believe, original to the necklace and perfectly reflects the pendant’s heaviness...

The combination of fine purity silver with silky, shimmering pearls is among my favorite when it comes to Antonio Pineda’s work. And the modernist floral brooch I am presenting here is a superb example not only of the renowned Taxco maestro’s exceptional sense of design but also of the quality of materials he used. I love the fluid, curvaceous body of the elongated “pod” and the tender forcefulness (I know, a contradiction in terms, right?) with which the stamens emerge out of it...

Three old jade medallions carved in the shape of a butterfly and lotus flowers and set in silver adorn this beautiful Chinese brooch. Definitely an early 20th c. piece as attested to by the clasp's pin that protrudes beyond the sterling frame, this is a delightfully airy pin, its delicate lightness enhanced by the subtle colors in the stones and the winged creature it represents. If you love classy, elegant jewelry, this brooch is for you. It measures 2 5/8" long by 1" wide and weighs 15.2 grams...

Hand-wrought in its entirety and a design that I have never encountered before, this early Mexican silver repousse necklace is an anonymous beauty. Its early date is attested to by the fact that it's strung on cotton thread (one of the earliest Aguilar "lyre" necklaces I sold was strung on cotton as well) and has a spring ring clasp. Not signed for maker nor metal content or origin, it is adorned by an elongated cascabela attached to the central station in an adorable yet naive way...

Hinged bangle bracelets whether gem- or hard stone-studded, wrought in shadow-box or simply crafted in bold, massive silver are among my favorite designs by the Los Ballesteros workshop. The modernist, generously wide version at hand with its impressed “nested ellipses” and its bezel-set green jaspers is a first one for me...

Possibly my most favorite Carmen Beckmann ring design (an example lives in my jewelry box), her Etruscan style domed creation presented here is an ode to wire-work and micro-beading. It rises regally above the finger yet because of all those curved, glistening surfaces, it never creates problems to the wearer like most rings that are so high do...

I love pearls and when they are nested in an Antonio Pineda fine silver modernist setting, I consider myself in heaven! All the more so when it’s three glorious, softly shimmering pearls we are talking about. Graduated in size and each one a different hue, they are comfortably sitting in their precious channel, as if their only concern is to showcase the variety of nacre colors...

Sleek modernism and heavy sterling combine in this Sigi Pineda bracelet which seems to be one of the maestro’s earlier creations and a relatively harder piece to find as well. Perfect finishing, generous weight, a blissful marriage of glistening silver and dark oxidation and inspired design, all features that make Sigi jewelry exceptional can be seen at work here. What a beauty indeed… The bracelet has a 6 3/4” inner circumference (clasped)and its width varies between 1 1/16″ and 5/8"....

Originally a painter who in the 1930s moved to Mexico to participate in the country’s cultural scene, Bernice Goodspeed quickly moved into designing and selling her own jewelry out of the store she and her fellow-artist husband Carl Pappe opened in Taxco. Bernice’s work does not come up often and I am very excited to have found this repousse necklace by her. The rose links, very reminiscent of the classic “Rosas de Mexico” that often adorn cuffs by Sanborn’s and Maciel, are at the same...

One of the most massive bracelet designs by the Los Ballesteros workshop this vintage sterling silver and amethyst hinged bangle is simply astounding! Sweeping wire-work curves and fleshy “dimpled dot” repousse semi-spheres come together to form the bracelet’s two wings while a huge, saturated purple amethyst cabochon takes center front adding color and drama. The perfect accessory for that daring female who does not love wasting in the shadows the bracelet has a 7 3/4” inner circumfer...

Habitually referred to as the “Spratling of Peru”, Italian-born Graziella Laffi spearheaded Peru’s own Silver Renaissance in the 1950s. Based on ingenious re-interpretations of ancient Inca motifs, her jewelry, decorative objects and holloware are avidly sought after by committed collectors for their impeccable craftsmanship and inspired design. The set of figural earrings presented here, wrought in sterling silver with overlay and hand-etched details, is a small work of wearable art that...