Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Silver (311)

One of the most elusive pieces designed by Danish modernist Hans Hansen, this sterling silver neck ring has been in my collection for a long time. The idea was to get a pendant by the same designer so as to complete the necklace but it never happened and I decided to give that same opportunity to someone else out there. So if you have been looking for a Hansen neck ring and have not been able to find one, here is your golden chance...

An intriguing contributor to Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance, Taller Taxco is a workshop that, as far as my experience goes, created jewelry that were solely based on Salvador Teran's designs. High quality, attention to detail and generous weight distinguish their work from other, "lesser known" modernist talleres yet to this day, a relationship between them and Teran has not been firmly established...

There are some pieces of jewelry that simply defy any effort to photograph them. And this stunning Taxco modernist sterling silver and blue spinel hinged bangle is one of them - a really tough one at that too! I have faced this challenge once before in the past and the “culprit” is available here as well, only that one is by Enrique Ledesma and adorned with color-change sapphires...

One of the most energetic Taxco modernists, Sigi Pineda enjoyed a long, creative career. Prolific and ever “on the move”, he was at his best working within the confines of minimalist design. Sigi rarely used “unnecessary” ornamentation, depending more on fluidity of lines to imply motion, colored stones to impart texture, oxidation to add dimension to what are mostly flat surfaces in his jewelry. The floral brooch at hand provides a good illustration of the above...

Graciously aged sterling silver, green stone inlay and warmly glowing copper combine in this Enrique Ledesma Mexican modernist necklace. Ledesma is a favorite Taxco maestro of mine - his modernism is soft and close to the heart; his designs emphasizing gently curving lines that are only enhanced by the richness of earth colors his inlays come in...

Impressive takes on a whole different meaning when the work of the Los Castillo taller is concerned - and the wide, exuberantly vibrant floral and foliate repousse bracelet I am presenting here proves the point. Continuing in the 1940s’ spirit that called for designs derived from nature in jewelry production, this piece is a celebration of everything verdant - organic in an unexpected way, full of movement, reaching for the sunlight, twisting and twirling with the wind...

The combination of fine purity silver with silky, shimmering pearls is among my favorite when it comes to Antonio Pineda’s work. And the modernist floral brooch I am presenting here is a superb example not only of the renowned Taxco maestro’s exceptional sense of design but also of the quality of materials he used. I love the fluid, curvaceous body of the elongated “pod” and the tender forcefulness (I know, a contradiction in terms, right?) with which the stamens emerge out of it...

Saturated blues and greens juxtaposed to the warm glow of well-aged silver soften the austere geometry of this Los Castillo modernist cuff bracelet. Out of the workshop’s “mozaico Azteca” line which celebrates the art of seamless inlay, the cuff is also showcasing the beauty of azur-malachite. There is nothing superfluous here - economy of design, honesty of materials and craftsmanship of the highest level combine in a visual power-house, a piece of mid-century wearable art...

Drawing inspiration from Mexico’s Spanish Colonial past, this sterling silver necklace and earrings set by Margot de Taxco combines dark oxidation with overlay and deep hand-chasing to achieve an elaborate and rich Old World visual effect. I find the central station to resemble a carnival mask - I know, too Venetian but then, carnivals were celebrated in Spain as well though not as elegantly or extravagantly...

Matching the "festoon with teardrops" necklace I recently sold, this set of earrings by the Los Castillo workshop is truly glamorous! I love the flair of the bifurcated element at the top with its curvaceous central semi-sphere which mirrors the sculptural elegance of the teardrop. And, please, note the playful articulation of the semi-circular links forming the main dangle. Aren't they just a pleasure? The earrings measure 1 3/4" long by 1 1/4" wide and weigh 17.5 grams (for the set)...

I acquired this pair of Miguel Melendez’s hinged bangles as a set some time ago and after long deliberations, I decided that they should continue in life as such. Miguel is one of Taxco’s modernists yet he honed his skills at Spratling’s Las Delicias and working for Margot de Taxco for many years. This specific design is a favorite of mine’s by him - it brings to mind rock formations and I love the interplay of negative and positive space...

When it comes to classy Mexican jewelry, nobody can beat Margot de Taxco. Margot had that rare, innate ability to instinctively create elegant designs which defied the whims of fashion and remain as relevant today as they did when they first became available. The set of repousse earrings presented here is, I believe, a very good illustration of what I am trying to say. I have had pieces of her des...

Admittedly my favorite Mexican modernist, Salvador Teran seems to have never had a "bad" moment during his career. There is not one piece of his that I have come upon which I have not loved for its quirky abstraction, its sometimes tongue-in-cheek genius, its magical way of playing with layers, abstraction and oxidation...

Born in Florence, Italy but spending her life as a designer and silversmith in Lima, Peru, Graziella Laffi found inspiration in the art of her adopted country's old civilizations, respectfully situating ancient motifs in her own, mid-century context. Laffi is habitually referred to by all who loyally collect her work as "the Spratling of Peru", a parallel that bespeaks the originality of her work and the quality of the jewelry, hollowware and decorative items she created. In the brooch presented...

A classic design for Hector Aguilar, this bracelet is comprised of a series of heart-shaped links with deeply etched details neatly arranged between two lengths of thick, hand-made chain. A very imposing in its simplicity creation, it is nevertheless a hefty, quite serious piece of jewelry. It feels beguilingly “familiar” around the wrist and conforms to every movement effortlessly. A real pleasure to behold and to wear, a bracelet around which collections are built. Measuring a tad above ...

Lariat necklaces are a favorite of mine and when I come upon a good Mexican example, I make every effort to bring it to One Good Eye Silver. Truth be told, they don't come up as often as other forms but it is an exciting quest to pursue. The late Deco / retro piece I am presenting here is a clipless version - you can adjust it by tying a loose knot at the desired height and change the way it looks whenever you feel like it. Luxuriously thick, the twist rope chain glows with the beauty of a life ...

I love vintage Portuguese silver bracelets, the repousse hinged bangles more specifically, for which makers like Topazio and Safir are well known. They come in all sizes and designs, they are ideal for bracelet stacks but can be just as easily enjoyed worn alone. The example at hand is floral, with sculptural roses and dahlias in full bloom and in bud running its perimeter, rendered more dramatic by the patina time has bestowed upon them. The bracelet has an 7” inner circumference (clasped) an...

A symbol of good luck, abundance and contentment the “laughing Buddha” medallions adorning the links of this Chinese silver bracelet are carved out of turquoise and have rich detail. Slightly graduated in size the are held against classic Deco tight mesh panels overlaid with filigree tendrils, tiny beading and delicate plants in full bloom. The stone’s blueish green hue soothes the eye and its natural matrix enhances the medallions’ sculpturality. The bracelet has an inner circumference ...