Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Mexican (255)

The indisputable queen of Mexican enamelwork, Margot de Taxco created an amazing series of jewelry in that technique which she first started focusing on while still married to Antonio Castillo and designing for the family workshop. As with her other jewelry here too the sources of inspiration were varied covering distances not only in geographical space but also in time...

Signed by a listed yet still unidentified workshop, this set of vintage silver and gold cufflinks is a classic Mexican Deco design. Inspired by the massive Aztec carved stone "Sun Disk" discovered in 1790 during excavations in Mexico City's zocalo, the pair is generous in size and quite nicely made...

One of the few female designers of Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance that we know of, Bernice Goodspeed arrived in Mexico's capital in 1930, according to Bille Hougart. Even though she and her painter husband, Carl Pappe, identified as writers and artists primarily, they opened a shop in Taxco where they sold not only their books and artwork but also jewelry that Bernice herself designed...

It's been a while since I presented a piece by Gerardo Lopez but he is one of my favorite Taxco maestros, a talented silversmith and designer who excelled in the art of repoussage. I believe Lopez was at his best when he created pectoral necklaces and clamper bracelets and it is an exquisite example of the latter form that I am showing here...

One of the most interesting - and few - female figures of Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance, Doris Smith Chamberlin was a Texas-born American who decided to move to Mexico in the 1940s to open her own workshop after having completed post-graduate studies in art and having taught woodworking, textile-making and silver-smithing for a few years in California (I am grateful to Decotini for the information)...

A classic design for renowned Taxco modernist Enrique Ledesma, this set of vintage sterling silver Mexican mid-century earrings comes with clips and is set with green inlay, possibly azur-malachite or some kind of agate. There is nothing fussy about the pair - good, honest materials, clarify of form and fluidity of lines...

Sold through Plateria Cortes this Taxco mid-century silver and stone necklace is signed by Enrique Ledesma and indeed considered a classic example of the Mexican modernist. Ledesma excelled in the marriage of sterling and semi-precious or hard stones is sleek, minimalist designs so his jewelry has a timeless appeal and is very much relevant today as it was when it first saw the day of light...

It looks like this is a Matl year for One Good Eye Silver and I couldn't be happier about it! A few months ago I presented a Deco Matilde Poulat cross pendant necklace with kneeling angels and today I am featuring another, possibly earlier, variation of the design but this one wrought in fine, .980 silver...

I don't use the term "rare" very often when presenting my jewelry yet in this case, I just had to! Because this specific version of one of my favorite designs, the multi-row repousse semi-spheres hinged bracelets usually adorned with turquoise cabs, is indeed very very difficult to come upon. What elevates the bracelet at hand above and beyond other similar examples is the sheer size of the repousse semi-spheres that make up its two "wings"...

An iconic Mexico City design from the Deco years, the "peyote flowers" is rendered here in fleshy repoussage that is further enhance with oxidation and the warm patina of time. Graduated in size the floral links are adorned with vibrantly colored turquoise cabochons and connected with "hidden" pin hinges which allow the bracelet to effortlessly conform to the wrist's moves...

Abstract - and rather chubby - fish wrought in sterling silver with overlay and oxidation hang off the earlobes with this set of abstract Mexican dangles signed by Sigi Pineda. I don't believe I had this specific design by the talented - and prolific - Taxco modernist before but I am very familiar with the line and definitely in love with it...

Usually referred to as irreverent and whimsical Hubert Harmon was a native of Illinois yet studied at the Parson's School of Design in Paris. In the 1940s, he and his wife Louise settled for a few years in Mexico where Hubert opened a workshop in Taxco and created some of the most interesting designs in the world of vintage Mexican silver jewelry. A lover of parties, poodles and all creatures winged and mythical, he seems to have found inspiration in the country's folk art as well...

I have had full-sized Mexican silver and stone "idol" pendant necklace before but none like this exquisite example I am presenting here. Beautifully carved and visually imposing, the pendant's onyx Aztec / Maya male figure is shown in what I believe might be a supplication position. Cross-hatched bracelets carved into the stone hug his wrists while a silver necklace and an impressive headdress are the only other adornments covering his naked body...

It is always exciting when I stumble upon a Mexican chain necklace made of polished, tumbled hard-stones caged in sterling silver. When that example happens to be from the pre-1948 period, I am elated! Made up of various agates and black onyx, maybe even a jasper here and there, the necklace at hand is perfect for the winter, its colors warm and cozy yet somewhat subdued , mirroring the dormant nature all around...

Based on one of Spratling's early designs, this "ring with three cascabeles" was also made in Taxco and wrought in high purity, .980 silver. I believe the motif is the same here as that in the renowned maestro’s tortoise shell and silver "snake" box - the more I look at it, the more I think of writhing serpents with spotted skins. And having sold Spratling’s original in the past, I can assure you the ring at hand is a worthy, very well made alternative...

When it comes to classy Mexican jewelry, nobody can beat Margot de Taxco. Margot had that rare, innate ability to instinctively create elegant designs which defied the whims of fashion and remain as relevant today as they did when they first became available. The set of repousse earrings presented here is, I believe, a very good illustration of what I am trying to say. I have had pieces of her des. 5337 parure many times over the years and yet whenever I discover another example, I find myself e...

A classic combination for Enrique Ledesma, the marrying of sterling and stone, makes this vintage Mexican bracelet an easily recognizable creation by the renowned Taxco modernist. The stone is here azur-malachite, I believe, with greens and browns predominant and the warmth of the silver casings adds a certain "inner glow" to it. The bracelet offers a glimpse of its life story in an inscription on the back of one link - romantic and rare yet if you would rather have it removed, it can be easily ...

Wrought in .900 silver which Matilde Poulat used in the early period of her career this stunning silver repousse brooch develops around a carved black onyx “mask”. Matl’s work is always impressive - no one could ever blame her creations for timidity - but it seems to me that the repoussage of her first years is even bolder. One would think that the combination of exuberant silver-work, cleverly applied oxidation and the patina of time would clash with the austere minimalism of the carved p...