Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Mexican (255)

Made in the 1960s, this vintage Mexican sterling silver bracelet consists of figural disks developing in a row defined by lengths of double-woven, thick chain. I have seen this combination featuring three different kinds of disk designs. While here we have depictions of the country's history as well as symbols of its old religion (a jaguar warrior portrait, Quetzalcoatl, Mexico's state Eagle) the specific bracelet design can be found with Mexican coins or representations of the zodiac cycle...

Big and early as indicated by the .900 silver alloy used to craft it, this Mexican Deco silver repousse "mask" brooch I particularly love because of the gorgeous stone out of which the portrait is carved as well as the pronounced repoussage of the frame that surrounds it. If you follow my "journey", you already know that I am drawn to Mexican "mask" jewelry...

Admittedly my favorite Mexican modernist, Salvador Teran seems to have never had a "bad" moment during his career. There is not one piece of his that I have come upon which I have not loved for its quirky abstraction, its sometimes tongue-in-cheek genius, its magical way of playing with layers, abstraction and oxidation. The mod pendant presented here provides a good illustration, I believe, of the point I am trying to make...

One of the better known "less celebrated" maestros of Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance, AEM (or, as I like to refer to him, AE Heart because of the heart-shaped M that hugs the signature's other two initials) lived and worked in Mexico City. Of good weight and exhibiting very good craftsmanship, AEM's jewelry often emulate pieces by his more famous contemporaries but he created many original designs himself as well...

Rare to find and quintessentially Mexican Deco, especially if we are looking at the Mexico City school repousse pieces, these sterling silver rings with their carved stone "masquettes" are the dedicated collector's dream. Yet you don't have to be a collector to enjoy their unique character. What always attracted me to them is their "Arts and Crafts" style silver work which allows you to follow the maestro's creative journey by tracing the marks his/her tools left on the precious metal...

An early design by the Los Castillo taller (could it have been created by their cousin, Salvador Teran, when he was still working for them?), the “fish skeleton” is considered a classic and has seen many emulations and reproductions over the years. The hinged bracelet at hand, wrought in thick silver sheet with copper bead accents, is a modernist treasure that was made for small wrists...

A mid-century Los Castillo Mexican silver and stone inlay belt buckle, this is a piece out the workshop's "onix negro" series. I have said before that the specific technique is a challenging one both for the silversmith and the lapidary as the stone has to be cut exactly to the dimensions of the silver elements that will be inlaid in it...

I have had this mod Taxco bracelet a few times over the years - also in ring, earrings and brooch form. And I never tire of it! The example at hand is signed by maestro Moreno and it has the beguiling sculpturality that makes the design memorable. Two perfectly crafted silver spheres sitting on stylized leaves - that is all yet it is so much more. Gutsy, slick and eye-catching at the same time - definitely a bracelet for the daring among us...

One of the most beautiful early Taxco brooches I have had over the years, this glorious butterfly combines delicate repoussage and the marrying of copper and 980 silver with a richly colored piece of azur-malachite. Copper-plating fine silver is not something everything would think to do - after all, one is a precious metal, the other, though very important throughout history, is not...

The story of this Mexican Deco silver and turquoise hinged bangle is an interesting one. When it came to me, it had a rather hastily applied gold plating that looked both out of place and, should I say?, garish. I cannot understand why anybody would do such a thing yet many a time, in discussions with older bench jewelers, I have been told that a few decades ago this was indeed a trend of sorts...

Vintage 1980s Talleres de Los Ballesteros Mexican modernist bracelet wrought in Antonio Pineda’s favorite .970 alloy which is richer in silver content than the standard sterling, this is a heavy, architectural piece adorned with clear, faceted, gem-quality amethysts. The stones are open on the back to maximize the effect created by the light as it passes through them and the all-silver links are substantial and very sculptural...

A fabulous example of Taxco modernism by Los Ballesteros, this vintage Mexican silver and amethyst bracelet is as beautiful to look at as it is comfortable to wear. A couple of days ago I presented another creation by the same workshop and I will suggest that the two pieces are representative of their line of medium-width modernist link bracelets...

The "less-is-more" philosophy of modernism and the classic, for Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance, marriage of silver and amethyst come together in this minimalist by-pass ring signed by Doris Corpus Artisans. A daring, Texas-born American who decided to move to Mexico in the 1940s, Doris Smith Chamberlin had her own workshop by 1945 and her commitment to perfection and inspired design resulted in the creation of some truly exceptional jewelry...

Matching the "festoon with teardrops" necklace I recently sold, this set of earrings by the Los Castillo workshop is truly glamorous! I love the flair of the bifurcated element at the top with its curvaceous central semi-sphere which mirrors the sculptural elegance of the teardrop. And, please, note the playful articulation of the semi-circular links forming the main dangle. Aren't they just a pleasure? The earrings measure 1 3/4" long by 1 1/4" wide and weigh 17.5 grams (for the set). They are ...

"Like mother like daughter" (and why not? father and son as well) is what came to mind when I saw this sweet Mexican silver and turquoise "baby" cuff bracelet. Beautifully stamped with ornamentation in the Native American / Southwestern style and centered by a rich blue turquoise stone with warm dark brown matrix the cuff is, of course, also ideal for those of us out there with very small wrists. Over the years of my love-affair with vintage Mexican jewelry, I have come upon "baby size" cuffs bu...

Based on Salvador Teran's sought-after "dancers" design, the bracelet I am presenting here was crafted in the period the renowned Mexican modernist was active by one of his contemporary Taxco maestros. Absolute minimalism, strong graphics and a sense of unencumbered, fluid motion characterize the figural overlay which dominates the shadow-box construction of the three central links. Just as in Salvador's original there are curve-topped disks and stars scattered in the frames, elements which make...

A carefully crafted copy of one of Hubert Harmon's Mexican designs, this fabulous sterling silver and amethyst belt buckle is anonymous yet, as quite often is the case, the lack of a signature does not affect the piece's quality and beauty. Based on the workmanship I suspect this may be a Casa Maya example. Casa Maya issued many of Harmon's designs in brass primarily yet they did make them in sterling as well and quite often pieces in their parures went out in the marked without full hallmarks. ...

I don’t often use the expression “Holy Grail” but Tane’s “Tarascan” necklace is one of those few pieces in the world of vintage Mexican silver jewelry that deserves it. Especially if it bears pre-1980 hallmarks - which is the case here. Habitually referred to as “the Tiffany’s of Mexico”, Tane has been producing holloware and jewelry in silver and gold since 1942 and is known throughout the world for the quality of craftsmanship, impeccable design and perfect finishing. Based o...