Catalog (326)

Maestro C. Molina is one of those “enigmatic” figures of Mexico’s 20th c. Silver Renaissance. Even in Bille Hougart’s seminal work on hallmarks and makers there is minimal information about him - namely, two or three examples of the way his jewelry is hallmarked and the photos are really difficult to read. Yet I have come upon his works several times during my years of buying and selling vintage Mexican silver and our lack of information notwithstanding, I have come to appreciate the hig...

A substantial set from Taxco's "middle period" this stunning necklace and earrings demi combines chunky cylinders of azur-malachite with shadow-box sterling box links. The result is quite impressive as the primarily green hues of the stone (the malachite is predominant here) are tempered by the variegated brown of the inclusions, all colors finally reflected in the glowing silver. I love a good chain necklace and this example combines good length with a presence that will never go unattended. Th...

For a few years around WWII and possibly up to 1950, Marcel Boucher had a special line of silver jewelry made in Mexico under the name "Parisina". I don't think we know which workshop produced those pieces or whether they were made by a number of different silversmiths. I can, however, say that Parisina jewelry ranges from the very light-weight to the chunkier, more substantial examples and that the same variety is also reflected in their designs. The Cuban link bracelet presented here is defini...

A symbol of good luck, abundance and contentment the “laughing Buddha” medallions adorning the links of this Chinese silver bracelet are carved out of turquoise and have rich detail. Slightly graduated in size the are held against classic Deco tight mesh panels overlaid with filigree tendrils, tiny beading and delicate plants in full bloom. The stone’s blueish green hue soothes the eye and its natural matrix enhances the medallions’ sculpturality. The bracelet has an inner circumference ...

Three old jade medallions carved in the shape of a butterfly and lotus flowers and set in silver adorn this beautiful Chinese brooch. Definitely an early 20th c. piece as attested to by the clasp's pin that protrudes beyond the sterling frame, this is a delightfully airy pin, its delicate lightness enhanced by the subtle colors in the stones and the winged creature it represents. If you love classy, elegant jewelry, this brooch is for you. It measures 2 5/8" long by 1" wide and weighs 15.2 grams...

One of the most successful duo in Taxco’s 20th c. Silver Renaissance, Cecilia and Tono excelled in some of the most difficult techniques in jewelry making like piedra negra, metales casados and mozaico Azteca. Their jewelry is usually modernist yet their designs unfailingly reference Mexico’s rich archeological heritage. I particularly love their “mask” pieces, especially their rings that do not come up very often and I am thrilled to have come upon the tiger’s eye example presented h...

Glistening caramel golds and molten browns dominate in this Cecilia Tono Mexican modernist bang ring. This is one of my favorite Taxco collaborations - the jewelry that came out of it slick and inventive with the highest quality of craftsmanship and the best of materials. There is nothing excessive about this ring - except maybe the heftiness of its oxidized setting - yet it immediately attracts the eye and holds the gaze captive with its liquid warmth and its generous width. The ring is a comfo...

Bold, colorful and generously long this vintage Mexican chain necklace is signed by Cecilia and Tono, one of Taxco's most successful duos. The combination of chunky amethyst, slender sterling tubes and lozenge stations embellished with azur-malachite inlay is undoubtedly eye-catching and I love the irregular shape of the stone beads which underscores their hand-cut quality. Wear it alone or combine it with similar pieces, the result will be stunning either way. The necklace measures 31 1/4" lon...

A maestro from the middle period of Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance, Carsi is among those Taxco silversmiths about whom we don't really know much. I have had pieces by him a few times over the years and I was pleasantly surprised to have found his signature on the ornate bangle bracelet presented here. This wire-work scrolled heart motif I am used to associating with Arte en Plata, even though I have seen it by other makers or even anonymous in the past. Yet Carsi's version is bolder in prop...

Stunning in its towering smokey brilliance, this minimalist solitaire by Carmen Beckmann is a modernist Mexican beauty! Based in San Miguel de Allende Beckmann is reported to have started her activity a little later than the big Mexico City and Taxco workshops with most of her pieces dating in the 1950s and 1960s. In the ring at hand, the generously sized faceted gem is raised above a substantial geometric shank, held in place with sterling prongs in a crown-style setting. The stone has the colo...

Perfect for those breezy nights by the beach, this vintage Mexican silver Carmen Beckmann brooch is shaped like a starfish (some see it as a sea anemone too) and centered by a turquoise of the softest sea foam color. I love Beckmann jewelry - when she was inspired, she created some amazing pieces. Simple yet not simplistic, the almost abstract a-symmetry of the silver work is reflected in the shape of the stone. Measuring 2 1/2” wide by 1 3/4” tall the brooch weighs 20.2 grams and is fully...

Known for her bold modernist designs and her love for big, gem- and stone-studded bracelets Carmen Beckmann was equally creative when allowing the Spanish Colonial tradition to influence her work. That “old way” of doing things manifests itself here in the heart-shaped wire-work appliques that support the luscious tiger’s eye cabochon, bringing to mind the more delicate, ornate filigree jewelry every silversmith in the country knew how to make. Everything else, however, from the oversized ...

Less-is-more would be the term I would use to describe this Carmen Beckmann modernist ring if it weren’t for that stone! Molten caramel golds fill the tiger’s eye slab almost in an ombre arrangement so that the ring changes the way it looks as the light that hits it changes. A true chameleon with a strong, “masculine” (am I even allowed the term any more?) setting, all angles and straight lines and a veritable show-stopper by one of the few female contributors to Mexico’s 20th c Silver...

Very reminiscent of jewelry created in the 1950s by Graziella Laffi, the Italian-born jewelry designer habitually referred to as “the Spratling of Peru”, this is a rarely surfacing creation of Carmen Beckmann’s. Thick, hand-hammered silver sheet that was then oxidized is used to form the bracelet’s main body. Upon that an impressive fish applique marries the piece’s Arts and Crafts feeling with the stylization of ancient Meso-american glyphs. The applique’s thickness adds sculpturali...

Possibly my most favorite Carmen Beckmann ring design (an example lives in my jewelry box), her Etruscan style domed creation presented here is an ode to wire-work and micro-beading. It rises regally above the finger yet because of all those curved, glistening surfaces, it never creates problems to the wearer like most rings that are so high do. And though its “stature” is by itself impressive, it is all those nooks and crannies among the profusion of design elements coming together here tha...

I am a big fan of Carmen Beckmann’s Etruscan style jewelry - her domed Etruscan ring is a foundational piece in my collection and I enjoy it thoroughly. There is something about the way the wire-work and tiny florets with their bead centers oxidize with time that creates an air of warm, comfortable luxury around them that gets me every time. I could easily see the dangle earrings at hand worn by dignified Roman matrons leisurely enjoying their honeyed wine. Measuring 1 1/4” long by 1 1/8” ...

Timelessly elegant this vintage Mexican silver Carmen Beckmann ring features a “toi et moi” design with two sparkling color-change sapphires in substantial crown settings. This is a more “demure” Beckmann, if I am allowed the use of the word in this context, reaching for a classic look with clean, lean lines and minimal adornment. It is the two gemstones that take center stage here with their deep burgundy-turn-to-steely-purple color as the light changes while the discreet silver work su...

Surrounded by the headless body of a coiled serpent the bezel-set turquoise adorning this Carmen Beckmann ring is one of the most visually interesting specimens of the stone I have recently seen. The variations in its green color in combination with the off-whites and the intense matrix come together in a way that suggests a mountainous landscape, dark boulders looming in the back, green grass still covered with patches of snow here and there. This is not elaborate, fussy design - the materials ...