Catalog (326)

I acquired this Georg Jensen silver repousse bracelet years ago but waited for a long time to present it in the store - I was tempted to keep it and would have done so but for its length. This is Jensen’s des. no 3 and when it came to me it was accompanied by its matching necklace (sold earlier this month). A closer study of the hallmarks, however, indicates that the bracelet is earlier than its companion, pre-1945, in fact, if I am not mistaken. So here it is, in all its silky glory: silver p...

Stunning vintage Italian silver charm bracelet wrought in the Etruscan style and adorned with four beautiful fob charms set with semi-precious and glass cabs. I love these pieces for their "shock and awe" approach to accesorizing that goes hand in hand with the boldness and seductiveness of Europe's southern-most coasts. Usually crafted in 800 or 900 silver and associated with the Peruzzi and Coppini Bros, Etruscan bracelets of this type are labor intensive to make with their dozens of florets, ...

The "Aztec Roses" motif is a classic for Mexican silver cuff bracelet from the Deco period. They are usually executed en repoussage, come in all widths and configurations and the most "famous" ones are signed by Sanborn's and Maciel. The impressive in heft and presence example I am presenting here differs from most in that its repousse work is closed in the back with an additional sheet of sterling. This technique serves at least two purposes as it protects the relief work and adds strength and ...

Crafted in the late 1950s or in the 1960s, this sterling silver Mexican necklace is signed by Victoria or Ana Maria Nunez de Brilanti. Victoria is one of the few female designers and silversmiths of Taxco’s 20th c. Silver Renaissance that we know of and she is credited, among others, for perfecting the “metales casados” or “married metals” technique. In this necklace, however, she adds a modernist twist to an otherwise “archeological” design. I cannot exactly pinpoint what it is th...

Made in one of the countries of mainland South-east Asia which were, at the time, under French colonial control, this silver repousse brooch bespeaks the level of craftsmanship local silversmiths had attained and their attention to composition and design execution. Hand-crafted during the first decades of the 20th c., I believe, the brooch is characteristic of the style and techniques that flourished in that area of the world. Minutely etched repoussage with crisp delineation in the scene's diff...

Part of an assembled demi parure the bracelet of which I will be presenting in the next couple of days, this sterling silver Danish necklace is one of Jensen’s classic designs. Elegance and impeccable craftsmanship defy the whims of time and fashion and here we have a piece of jewelry that falls under that magical category. These earlier creations of Jensen’s retain the soft, silky sculpturality of Danish Skønvirke work and the patina the silver develops over time only enhances that quality...

A substantial set from Taxco's "middle period" this stunning necklace and earrings demi combines chunky cylinders of azur-malachite with shadow-box sterling box links. The result is quite impressive as the primarily green hues of the stone (the malachite is predominant here) are tempered by the variegated brown of the inclusions, all colors finally reflected in the glowing silver. I love a good chain necklace and this example combines good length with a presence that will never go unattended. Th...

I don’t often use the expression “Holy Grail” but Tane’s “Tarascan” necklace is one of those few pieces in the world of vintage Mexican silver jewelry that deserves it. Especially if it bears pre-1980 hallmarks - which is the case here. Habitually referred to as “the Tiffany’s of Mexico”, Tane has been producing holloware and jewelry in silver and gold since 1942 and is known throughout the world for the quality of craftsmanship, impeccable design and perfect finishing. Based o...

Ideal for Mother's Day (yes, there is still time to bring it home) this antique Victorian brooch is perfect to show your love and affection year round as well - whether to somebody else or yourself is up to you to decide! Wrought in the aesthetic style its decorative elements develop on different plains thus adding architectural interest and a dramatic depth of field. Tender roses in full bloom and leaves, some raised, some flat, textured with stippling and hand-etched details hold center stage ...

A carefully crafted copy of one of Hubert Harmon's Mexican designs, this fabulous sterling silver and amethyst belt buckle is anonymous yet, as quite often is the case, the lack of a signature does not affect the piece's quality and beauty. Based on the workmanship I suspect this may be a Casa Maya example. Casa Maya issued many of Harmon's designs in brass primarily yet they did make them in sterling as well and quite often pieces in their parures went out in the marked without full hallmarks. ...

Based on Salvador Teran's sought-after "dancers" design, the bracelet I am presenting here was crafted in the period the renowned Mexican modernist was active by one of his contemporary Taxco maestros. Absolute minimalism, strong graphics and a sense of unencumbered, fluid motion characterize the figural overlay which dominates the shadow-box construction of the three central links. Just as in Salvador's original there are curve-topped disks and stars scattered in the frames, elements which make...

One of my favorite "less celebrated" Taxco maestros, Gerardo Lopez has been steadily gaining in popularity among collectors of vintage Mexican silver jewelry. I suspect that he worked for the Los Castillo and / or Margot de Taxco before he started his own taller as his creations are often reminiscent of designs issued by both famous workshops. Lopez's repoussage is masterful and the finishing on his jewelry impeccable. Here, however, he espoused a more "two-dimensional" approach with evident mod...

"Like mother like daughter" (and why not? father and son as well) is what came to mind when I saw this sweet Mexican silver and turquoise "baby" cuff bracelet. Beautifully stamped with ornamentation in the Native American / Southwestern style and centered by a rich blue turquoise stone with warm dark brown matrix the cuff is, of course, also ideal for those of us out there with very small wrists. Over the years of my love-affair with vintage Mexican jewelry, I have come upon "baby size" cuffs bu...

Vintage Topazio Portuguese sterling silver hinged bangle bracelet in a classic for the genre "harvest calendar" design in which different months of the year are illustrated by either a flower, fruit or other staple that characterizes them. I love these bracelets for their representation of the cyclical nature of time and their allusion to earlier decades when the availability of food depended on one's location and the specific season. In the example at hand the figural decoration is distinct and...

Matching the "festoon with teardrops" necklace I recently sold, this set of earrings by the Los Castillo workshop is truly glamorous! I love the flair of the bifurcated element at the top with its curvaceous central semi-sphere which mirrors the sculptural elegance of the teardrop. And, please, note the playful articulation of the semi-circular links forming the main dangle. Aren't they just a pleasure? The earrings measure 1 3/4" long by 1 1/4" wide and weigh 17.5 grams (for the set). They are ...

The "less-is-more" philosophy of modernism and the classic, for Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance, marriage of silver and amethyst come together in this minimalist by-pass ring signed by Doris Corpus Artisans. A daring, Texas-born American who decided to move to Mexico in the 1940s, Doris Smith Chamberlin had her own workshop by 1945 and her commitment to perfection and inspired design resulted in the creation of some truly exceptional jewelry. I have in the past offered examples of the work c...

A masterfully crafted, meticulously finished frame of sterling lily pads accented with tiny beading and elegant little wire swirls surrounds a flat-top amethyst gem in the vintage studio ring I am presenting here. This type of silver-work and the specific foliate motif is easily identified as created by Mary Gage, one of the most talented - and indeed most eccentric - silversmiths of the late American Arts and Crafts movement. I have had a few pieces by Gage over the years - she does not seem to...

A fabulous example of Taxco modernism by Los Ballesteros, this vintage Mexican silver and amethyst bracelet is as beautiful to look at as it is comfortable to wear. A couple of days ago I presented another creation by the same workshop and I will suggest that the two pieces are representative of their line of medium-width modernist link bracelets. In the last few years, I have come to realize that the Los Ballesteros maestros succeeded in pushing their ranking higher and higher up in my hierarch...