A prayer cloth (mohr posh) embroidered by Hazara women, probably originating from Ghazni, Uruzgan or Bamiyan province. These prayer cloths are unique to the Hazara and are used to wrap the Shi'a prayer stone, called the mohr. At the time of prayer, the stone is laid on the cloth so that the worshipper touches with his forehead the small square where the stone is placed. The stone depicts the mosque and minarets of Karbela...

Living in the rough mountainous terrain of eastern Paktika and over the Pakistan border in Waziristan, the women of the Mangali tribe wear these leggings for protection. Loose, baggy trousers are tucked into them, and they are re-used until they wear out. Very thick bergundy silk thread is worked in horizontal rows on the top in cross stitch, and on the lower part in vertical bands of heavy whip stitch. Geometric patterns are superimposed in random coloring...

A hand-embroidered Pashtun nomad purse from Katawaz (Ghazni province) with blue glass beads. Blue beads are considered amulets against the evil eye. Pashtun women, whether settled or nomadic, love rich and beautiful embroideries that shine. Women embroider - for themselves, on their festive costumes and headgear - and for their children and their husbands...

A man's wrist band from Afghanistan, hand-embroidered by Lakai Uzbek women, probably from Kunduz province. Circa 1970. Solid embroidery in cross stitch with hooked motifs. These motifs, their colors and repetition, are common in the embroideries of Tajikistan and Sukhanderia in southern Uzbekistan. The embroidery features buttons and beaded tassles on both ends. The tassles are bound together by metallic thread. The Lakai Uzbek cross stitch is rather larger than in the Hazara embroideries...

A small khalta (pouch) in cross stitch from Kunduz province, Afghanistan, hand-embroidered by Uzbek women of the Lakai tribe. Circa 1950. It measures 5 1/2 x 8 inches without the beaded tassles; with the beaded tassles, 7 1/2 x 9 inches. The bag is lined inside with red cotton, and the outlines on the exterior are embellished with tassles and white glass beads...

A densely embroidered pillow cover from Hazara district in Pakistan, circa 1950. This pillow cover was made for a wedding. Curling horn and star patterns are typical of the embroidery of the Hazara district, resembling both in design and technique the phulkaris of Punjab province. In this district it is typically accomplished from the reverse - the designs are outlined with one running stitch, then the outlines are filled in with another...

Saye qosha is an Uzbek textile used to decorate piles of quilts when they are stored during the day. Two rectangles of cotton solidly embroidered in cross stitch with multi-colored hooked motifs, sewn together to make a V-shape. Fringes along the bottom in alternating green, bergundy, yellow, red, purple, and white. In their colors and repetition, these motifs are typical of the embroideries of Tajikistan and Sukhanderia in southern Uzbekistan...

A vintage textile in silk thread from northern Afghanistan, probably from Mazar-i-Sharif, Balkh or Tashkurghan. Circa early 20th century. These kinds of textiles were made for domestic use. The back is lined with print fabric, most likely from Ivanovo, a town northeast of Moscow. The textile depicts floral designs around three central rosettes composed of long and short stitch enclosed by linear and curvilinear borders in satin stitch. The background is a bergundy colored cotton...

A man's shawl from Waziristan which is part of the Federally Administered Tribal Areas, considered to be outside Pakistan's four provinces...

This child's dress front in cross stich from central Afghanistan dates to the mid to late 20th century. It measures 11¾ x 18 inches (29.8 x 45.7 cm). Traditional Hazara pieces (the smallest ethnic minority group of Afghanistan), like Pashtun pieces, have a yoke under the neckline from which gathered, long panels of fabric flow. Sleeves are normally wide, and they wear matching cuffed pants underneath. The garments are decorated with embroidery at the yoke, the collar, the bottom of the sleeve...

The Mangal are one of the largest and perhaps the most powerful and influential Pashtun tribes, residing mostly in Southeastern Paktia and adjacent Khost provinces of Afghanistan. They are renowned for their independent nature and a long history of resisting British forces, central and provincial governments, Soviet army, and even fellow Pashtun Taliban militia. The Mangal tribe also reside in Pakistan's Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa province, and Waziristan, in FATA (Federally Administered Tribal Areas). ...

Measuring 10¾ inches x 16 inches, this child's dress front is from Jaghori in Ghazni province. Estimated age is mid 20th century. The embroidery is amazingly precise, fine cross stitch in silk thread, while the back is a pink printed fabric probably from Russia. The edges are adorned with metallic Bokhara couching and a gold braid that frames the overall design. The bottom tabs depict rosettes in silk floss in satin stitch on white cotton. Condition of this piece is almost excellent, but ther...

This is an old textile piece from Afghanistan, circa mid 20th century, made by Pashtuns from Ghazni province. It is a child's dress front. The textile features traditional motifs in cross stitch, silk thread in yellow, green and blue on a cotton background. There is metallic braiding appliqued on the sides and metallic silver couching at the top. The side tabs at the bottom are executed in herringbone stitch on a white cotton background. The piece is trimmed with blue glass beads at the coll...

In mostly satin stitch and cross stitch in silk thread, this piece measures 45½ x 36½ inches (115.6 x 92.7 cm). Saye goshe are an Uzbek V-shaped fringed hanging used to decorate piles of quilts when they are stored during the day. The blazing colors on this textile depict traditional Uzbek motifs with stylized pomegranate flowers. Still living in yurts, the Lakai Uzbek have perfected the interior decoration of their homes. The yurt is embellished with bands, cushions and covers for the bed l...

A small embroidered purse from Jaghori in Ghazni province, Afghanistan, circa mid 20th century. On fine black cotton and lined with printed fabric from Ivanovo. Extremely fine silk thread in mostly satin stitch, in various shades of yellow, green, purple and brick red, forming small, regular chevron patterns in diagonal across the entire surface of the purse. A white plastic button serves as a closure. Filling stitch is used on the flap to produce a diagonal design which is set inside another r...

A Kuchi dress from Afghanistan from the second half of 20th century. The dress bodice has a front slit with button closure, and dense silk embroidery adorns the bodice, sleeve ends, and bottom hem. The embroidery is mostly satin stitch, with ladder stitch and herringbone stitch on black cotton. The embroidered sleeve bands and bottom embroidered band are 2 inches in width. The printed fabric is cotton, with small turquoise, yellow and red motifs on a black background. Condition of the dress is...

This hand-stitched cupola-shaped hat is called a doppi and features satin, herringbone and cross stitch in cotton thread. It has a pink cotton tassle on the side and a braided string at the top. Diameter: 20 cm; circumference: 52.5 cm. Condition: Excellent. Mid to late 20th century.

A Pashtun Mangal child's shirt front, circa early or mid 20th century. Silk thread on cotton in a dense satin stitch is worked in horizontal rows, forming geometric patterns of lozenges and chevrons in mostly peach and black thread which cover the entire embroidered surface. The lozenges are accentuated by diagonal lines in brown thread which are worked in Holbein stitch and back stitch, contrasting with the overall magenta color of the dress front. The bottom edge is accented with metallic cou...

A finely embroidered textile from Afghanistan made by Hazara women, measuring 12 inches by 13 inches. Embroidered in silk thread in mostly filling stich and satin stitch on a white cotton linen background. Although the embroidery designs are geometric and simple, it is the constant change of color on each of the embroidered panels that animates this prayer cloth ("mohr posh"). Late 20th century.

Measuring 6 inches x 8 inches (20.5 cm x 14.5 cm) including the beaded fringes, this dazzling purse is from Bamiyan and is probably dated to 1940 or slightly later. The purse features couched metallic threads, gold couching, mirrors, and beaded fringes. An intricate array of curvilinear and geometric designs almost completely covers the dark navy silk background. The purse is lined with silk fabric. A textile of superb workmanship, very typical of Pashtun embroidery but quite possibly as well...

This embroidered panel is a ceremonial food cover made by the Lakai, an Uzbek tribe living in small villages near the northern Afghanistan city of Kunduz. The Lakai came to Afghanistan in the 16th century but they were once also found in what is now Uzbekistan and southern Tajikistan. This textile is composed of stylized star and solar shapes embroidered in silk thread in fine angled blanket stitch and chain stitch on a red plain-woven cotton. These highly abstract designs are typical of Lakai e...

An old prayer napkin from Afghanistan, measuring 10 x 11 inches. It features very fine stitching characteristic of Hazara embroideries - satin stitch on a white linen background, in silk threads (yellow, blue, orange, green and red). The embroidery on the reverse side of this textile is exactly identical to the front side. Estimated age: early to mid 20th century. Condition is excellent except for some minor stain on the reverse side, displayed in the last photo.

This saye gosha (or segusha) shows the dynamic use of line and vivid color for which Uzbek Lakai embroidery is famous. Saye gosha are V-shaped hangings used to decorate piles of quilts while in storage during the day in the yurt. The Lakai are an Uzbek tribe who currently live around Kunduz in northern Afghanistan. Originally more widespread, they were also once found in what is now Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. Silk thread in a combination of fine slanting blanket stitch and double chain stitch on...

Magenta silk thread is worked in mostly horizontal rows with geometric patterns superimposed in random coloring on this child's waistcoat from the early 20th century. It features metallic couching on the top and bottom edges, with blue beads in the front to ward off the evil eye. Satin stitch combines with Holbein and back stitch to accentuate the lozenge designs that cover the entire surface of each panel. The Mangal are the largest, and perhaps the most powerful and influential of Pashtun tri...

A densely beaded Uzbek purse, probably from Mazar-i-Sharif or Kunduz, northern Afghanistan. The designs are typical of Uzbek embroidery in which variations on geometric shapes are emphasized for talismanic effect. The purse is edged with gold trim and blue beads as a prophylactic against the evil eye. The purse is lined with green and pink silk, and a red cotton fabric. There are three pockets inside. Condition: Excellent. Measures 15x25 cm when opened, 12x15 cm when closed. Estimated age: earl...

This is a textile of superb workmanship, very typical of Hazara embroidery. The Hazara are the the third largest ethnic group in Afghanistan, residing mainly in the mountainous central provinces of Bamiyan, Ghazni and Orugzan. This child's dress front measures 32.5 x 65 cm. Solidly worked in cross stitch in silk thread, with satin stich on the waistbands, glass beads on the outer edges, and framed by Bokhara couching in metallic thread. Traditional Afghan dress yokes have a yoke under the nec...

This is a woman's dress front from northern Afghanistan, circa mid 20th century. Embroidered in fine cross stitch on plainweave olive cotton, the field design device of interlocking crucifixes within diamonds is frequently seen on Shahsavan rugs and textiles. The top edge is embellished with Bukhara couching, which are metallic threads covering the entire surface area and fastened at regular intervals by small stitches to form a relief pattern. The back of the yoke is lined in mustard-colored co...

A Pashtun nomad's purse from Katawaz, Ghazni province, circa mid 20th century. There are blue beads along all the edges, used to ward off the evil eye. The purse has metallic trim along all the edges and fine Bokhara couching which covers the entire surface area, front and back. The beaded cord winds around the purse to keep it closed. There are two pockets inside, lined with red cotton fabric. The purse measures 6 x 11 inches when opened and elongated, 5 x 6 1/2 inches when closed. The workm...

An exceptionally fine embroidered purse from Katawaz (Ghazni province), Afghanistan, circa early to mid 20th century. The embroidery on this piece is basically metallic embroidery on both sides, with mirror stitching and fine metallic couching. The front side is comprised of Bokhara couching, where the thread is taken across the surface for the desired length, then, bringing the needle back to the beginning, it is caught down at regular intervals by small stitches. The process is repeated unti...

Pompoms adorn the edges of this densely embroidered textile made by the Kakarh tribe of Afghanistan. Metallic couching combined with Holbein, herringone and satin stitching characterize this piece. The reverse side is lined in plainweave striped cotton. The Kakarh have descendants in western provinces of Pakistan but are mostly found in Afghanistan and eastern Iran. This textile is in perfect condition and measures 20 x 31 1/2 inches (50.8 x 80 cm). Estimated age: mid 20th century.

Embroidered on a brown plainweave cotton linen, this wedding food cover (lali posh) was made by the Lakai Uzbek residing near Kunduz in northern Afghanistan. Six suns edged with waves (symbolizing power) are worked in blanket stitch and chain stitch in bright, multicolored silk thread, surrounded by free-flowing, stylized floral motifs. The rasberry silk fringe border on all sides is crocheted and the reverse side of the textile is lined with two separate panels of printed fabric from Russia. Co...

A small beaded purse made for storing kohl. Silk thread embroidered on cotton, worked in extremely fine satin stitch and filling stitch. Indus Kohistan is located in the province of Pakistan formerly known as the North-West Frontier Province (NWFP), recently re-named Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. In Persian, Kohistan means Land of Mountains. In Persian "koh" means "peak" and "istaan" means "land of". This textile measures 8.5x10 cm when closed, when opened, 10x16 cm. Condition: Excellent. Estimated age:...

This attractive hand-embroidered purse from Bamiyan province measures 10.5 x 21 cm when opened, 8 x 10.5 cm when closed. It is embroidered in brick stitch in silk thread of various colors. The motifs are meticulously worked diamond motifs surrounding hooked diamonds, quite typical of traditional Hazara embroidery. The Hazara are the third largest ethnic group in Afghanistan. Age: circa early to mid 20th century. Condition: Very good, two small stains under the button closure (see photos). T...

The fabric on this small purse from Bamiyan is cotton, solidly worked in brick stitch in silk thread, the colors alternating between celadon, pink, orange and red. Circa early to mid 20th century. The interlocking rhomboid design and hooked diamonds are typical of Hazara embroidery. This purse measures 10.5 x 18.5 cm when opened, 8 x 10.5 cm when closed. Condition: Excellent (e.g., no stains, no flaws, no damage)

This densely embroidered purse is from Katawaz (Ghazni province), Afghanistan and measures 12x25 cm when opened, 11x12.5 cm when closed. The metallic thread embroidery is not taken through the background fabric but applied onto it in satin stitches, laid parallel to each other and held down by tiny stitches in orange thread. This embroidery technique serves to create the curvilinear designs in relief. The core is red, green and aubergine silk velvet and the relief designs are neatly framed in b...

A Hazara prayer cloth from Wardak or Bamiyan province, Afghanistan, circa early 20th century. Satin stitch in multicolored silk thread on fine white linen. Squares and triangles are embroidered in complex symmetrical arrangements to form a very balanced, unified composition. Measures 32 x 32 cm. Condition: Very good, a small mend on the perimeter.

A hand-embroidered bag made by Pashtun nomads from Ghazni province (probably Katawaz), Afghanistan. Floral motifs combined with arabesques in herringbone stitch in silk thread on a purple silk background. The Bokhara couching technique is used to maximum effect, where the metallic threads are laid parallel to each other and fastened at regular intervals by tiny red stitches. Blue beads adorn the edges to ward off the evil eye. The interior of the bag is lined in a blue printed fabric. Measu...

This vintage child's cap from Herat, Afghanistan measures 17 cm in diameter, 50 cm in circumference. It features satin stitch, herringbone stitch and ladder stitch in cotton thread. Condition: Near excellent, only two tiny sections of missing red thread around the rim (see photos). Estimated age: early to mid 20th century.

This saye gosha (or segusha) shows the dynamic use of line and vivid color for which Uzbek Lakai embroidery is famous. Saye gosha are V-shaped hangings used to decorate piles of quilts while in storage during the day in the yurt. The Lakai are an Uzbek tribe who currently live around Kunduz in northern Afghanistan. Originally more widespread, they were also once found in what is now Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. Silk thread in a combination of fine, slanting blanket stitch and double chain stitch o...

Measuring 30 x 32.5 cm, this child's waistcoat from Afghanistan is embroidered in cross stitch in silk thread in geometric patterns, very typical of Hazara embroideries. However, as Bernard Dupaigne has noted, Pashtun and Hazara embroideries are sometimes difficult to distinguish due to the geographic proximity of both groups in the central region of Afghanistan. There is a style that incorporates the Hazara predilection for geometric designs in cross stitch, while the Pashtun influence is refl...

A child's shirt front from Ghazni province, circa early to mid 1960s, probably from Jaghori or Katawaz. Densely embroidered in extremely fine brick and satin stitch in silk thread on purple silk, the lozenge patterns are framed by Bokhara couching, where the metallic threads are laid in parallel and then fastened with tiny stitches, forming a relief pattern. Blue beads surround the edges, to protect against the evil eye. The waistbands are equally stunning in detail, embroidered in herringbone ...

This dazzling child's dress front was made by Pashtuns and is probably dated to the 1950s or 60s. The embroidery technique on this textile features couched metallic threads forming an intricate combination of linear and circular designs, so densely arranged as to almost completely obscure the dark purple silk ground. Composed of metallic embroidery (Bokhara couching), the gold thread is taken across the surface for the desired length, then, bringing the needle back to the beginning, it is caught...

This dress yoke from Bamiyan province measures 34.5 x 41 cm and is embroidered in fine cross stitch in pink, yellow, green and purple silk thread. Traditional Afghan dresses have a yoke under the neckline from which long panels of fabric flow. Sleeves are typically wide, and they wear matching cuffed pants underneath. The garments are decorated with embroidery at the yoke, the bottom of the sleeves, and the cuff of the pants. When a garment wears out they remove the embroidered areas and re-use ...

A woman's cap from Bamiyan province, circa mid 20th century. Satin stitch in pink, white and yellow silk thread embroidered on green cotton, depicting stylized flowers resembling chrysanthemums. Diameter: 20 cm. Circumference: 52.5 cm. Condition: Excellent.

An Uzbek knotted pile hat from northern Afghanistan, mid to late 20th century. Diameter 18 cm, circumference 50 cm. Condition very good except for two small tears on the rim.

This vintage textile is from Bamiyan province, Afghanistan and measures 25.5 x 26 cm. Embroidered in pastel-colored silk thread on a fine white linen, it depicts in satin stitch the triangular shapes that are typical of Hazara embroidery. The continuous supplementary-weft technique makes this textile reversible and either face may be used as the front. Condition: Excellent (e.g., no tears, holes, stains). Estimated age: probably 1950-1960.

An Uzbek mafrash panel from northern Afghanistan, mid to late 20th century. Silk embroidery in cross stitch, measuring 16 1/4 x 40 1/4 inches (41.3 cm x 102.2 cm). Condition: Excellent. The reverse side of this textile is lined in purple silk with an ikat hem.

This is a woman's dress panel ("pushk kurta") from Baluchistan, measuring 43 x 52 cm. Embroidered in silk thread in a combination of interlacing, herringbone, long and short stitch, and extremely fine satin stitch, it depicts diamond shape medallions ("paraiz zarto")and arched columns with intricately repeated geometric motifs which are typical of Baluch embroidery. The most intricate pushks are produced in Makran and other coastal areas of Baluchistan. This is a dazzling and beautiful textile i...

A pair of embroidered ankle bands from Turkmenistan, measuring 20.3 x 22.9 cm. Embroidery technique is extremely fine herringbone and satin stitch on an indigo silk background. Condition: Excellent. Circa early to mid 20th century.

A woman's shirt front from Baluchistan, mid to 20th century, in a combination of blanket stitch, herringbone and satin stitch on green cotton in a diamond repeat pattern. It measures 30.5 x 47 cm. A dress ("pashk") covered with detailed embroidery is everyday attire for Baluch women. The embroidered diamond repeat pattern is known as "paraiz zarto" in the language of the Baluch. Condition: Excellent.

A woman's dress panel from Baluchistan, densely embroidered in Holbein stitch, blanket stitch, chain stitch, and satin stitch in silk, cotton and metal thread. Most Baluchi women labor for years embroidering fine works of art for their daughters’ dowries. Small girls begin to learn basic stitches and patterns at about the age of six or seven years. They do not use charts or diagrams but instead create extremely complex designs from memory, often with assistance and suggestions from family me...

This beautiful textile was made by Pashtun nomadic tribeswomen of Hazarajat. It measures 52 x 65 cm without the fringes (57 x 71 cm including the fringes). Shisha (mirrors) illuminate the textile and are fastened by buttonhole stitches, surrounded by volute designs worked in a very fine ladder stitch in silk thread on a dark purple silk background. The design composition is framed throughout with woven metal-thread braid with blue and white beads edging the textile. Condition: Excellent. Circa...

This is an Uzbek embroidered cloth from northern Afghanistan. The motifs and colors are typical of the embroideries of Tajikistan and southern Uzbekistan (Sukhandarya). Cross stitch and satin stitch in pink, green, yellow and blue yellow silk thread. This textile was probably made for a dowry. It measures 29.5 x 30 cm. Condition: Excellent, no fraying, no stains, no odors. Estimated age: mid or late 20th century.

This hand-embroidered Uzbek textile from northern Afghanistan measuring 27 x 28 cm is in great condition. Cross stitch in silk thread on a cotton background. Circa mid to late 20th century.

This is a vintage textile from Paktya province. It measures 28 x 29.5 cm and is estimated to date between early to mid 20th century. Silk thread is embroidered in extremely fine brick stitch and satin stitch on a tan linen background, depicting interlocking chevron and bricked lozenge motifs. Condition: Excellent.

Traditional geometric designs embroidered on a plain weave cotton animate this Hazara cloth from Afghanistan measuring 33 x 39 cm. Cross stitch in multicolored silk thread form an interlocking star pattern. Condition of the textile is excellent. Estimated age: late 20th century. The Hazara are the third largest ethnic group in Afghanistan, inhabiting mostly Bamiyan province but also Orugzan and Ghazni provinces.

A vintage silk purse with mirrors ("shisha"), embroidered in whorl designs in silk thread on a dark purple silk background. A neat example of the couching technique favored by the Pashtuns, where the metal threads form a neat grid of lines and then fastened down with staggered stitches. This purse is from Katawaz (Ghazni province) in Afghanistan. Condition: Excellent. This purse measures 13.5 x 16.5 cm and is decorated with blue turquoise beads along the edges.

A pair of decorative table cloths made by Pashtun women, with mirrored, beaded discs ("gul-i-peron") on each corner which serve as protective amulets. The blue bead edging is typical of Pashtun textiles, and is used extensively on purses and clothing as a prophylactic against the evil eye. Silk thread in vibrant colors has been applied in mostly herringbone stitch on a pink cotton background with cording. Each panel measures 26.5 x 26.5 cm. Condition of the pair is excellent. Circa mid to la...

Embroidered on a dark purple silk, this pair of Pashtun tablecloths is from Ghazni province, Afghanistan. Each textile measures 27 x 27 cm and is animated by star motifs and repetitive whorl designs in a closely worked ladder stitch in silk thread, framed by gold-thread braid and gold-thread ribbon appliquéd onto the background. There is also some extremely fine metal thread couching on each piece, and beaded fringes all around the edges. A superb example of Pashtun embroidery. Condition is ne...

Embroidered purses ("bushkiri") are used by the Baluch to store and carry valuables and bridal dowry gifts. This little purse is embroidered in extremely fine satin stitch, brick stitch, and ladder stitch in silk thread, forming interlocking lozenge and chevron designs. Condition: some wear throughout. It measures 10 x 18 cm when opened, 9.5 x 10 cm when closed.