Catalog: Vintage Arts: Regional Art (266)

Depicting delicate motifs in somber, predominantly blue-black combined with discrete touches of rusty red, this textile from the Savu Islands of eastern Indonesia is called a selindang. The shawls are worn by women over their shoulders, to complete their sarong attire. This textile is estimated to date to the late 20th century and is constructed by warp ikat, warp-faced, with fringes. It measures 71 x 191 cm and is in perfect condition. The dye is a natural indigo.

This is a wedding shift from Indus Kohistan in Pakistan. Kohistan, meaning "land of mountains", has been a crossroads between Central, South and Southwestern Asia, absorbing artistic influences from the ancient Greeks and Scythians. Measuring 190 cm extended from sleeve to sleeve, the bust is 45 cm; arm opening: 34 cm; from shoulder to bottom hem: 104 cm. The embroidery technique is brick stitch and cross stich in a combination of acrylic and silk thread. Condition is excellent. For more information on these textiles please see Colours of the Indus by Nasreen Askari and Rosemary Crill © 1997 Merrell Holberton Publishers, pp. 132-133). Estimated age mid to late 20th century.

Measuring 18 x 18.5 cm when closed, this embroidered purse from Baluchistan is called a "bushkiri" and would be used for storing or carrying valuables and bridal dowry gifts. Worked in a delicate combination of satin stitch and brick stitch in silk thread, the embroidered patterns are medallion, diamond and chevron combined with continuous zigzag forms. Tassels, braided cord, plastic beads and metal-wrapped thread with the interior lined in red printed cotton. Condition is excellent, estimated age mid to late 20th century.

Measuring 10" x 15 1/4", this textile was made by Hmong women living in Laos. Machine embroidery, reverse applique combined with some tightlyworked hand embroidery for accents. The spirals symbolize longevity. Condition is excellent and its estimated age is mid to late 20th century. The cushion is backed with a supple dark magenta pig suede and features an invisible side zipper for ease of dry cleaning. The pillow insert is 100% polyester fiber.

Measuring 15 x 26 cm this charming purse is completely hand-embroidered in silk thread on a polyester ground. The embroidery is a very finely worked ladder stitch combined with Romanian couching ("pokhtaduzi") so densely worked as to almost completely obscure the background fabric. The metal thread around the mirrors is fastened down at regular intervals with small holding stitches, producing a characteristic relief to the pattern. Blue seed beads on all the edges are intended to ward off the jinn from the wearer. Three inside pockets. The wallet is estimated age mid 20th century and is in excellent condition. Silk tassels on a braided silk cord forms the closure.

With three inner compartments this vintage wallet from Afghanistan dates to the mid 20th century and is lined with red printed cotton and heavily decorated with woven blue seed beads which act as charms to avert evil from the wearer. Silk thread is intricately worked in ladder stitch forming volute motifs accented with gold metallic braiding on an ivory linen background. Condition is excellent.

Measuring 15 x 16.5 this embroidered purse from Afghanistan is in excellent condition and dates to the mid to late 20th century. Silk thread on cotton, in satin stich and brick stitch. White beads on corded tassels surround the edges. Condition is excellent. Estimated age late 20th century.

This wallet from Afghanistan measures 15.5 x 31.5 cm and is embroidered in silk thread on a pink satin ground. The embroidery technique is an intricately worked ladder stitch, with button hole stitches and corded silk tassels for closure. The purse is from Katawaz, in Ghazni province, with two interior pockets. Condition is excellent, estimated age mid to late 20th century.

This is a hinggi from east Sumba, probably dated to the mid to late 20th century. The weave technique is warp ikat, plain woven and hand spun cotton. It measures 132.08 x 274.32 cm and is in immaculate condition. Ikat is a resist-dye method of patterning textiles. Prior to weaving, the maker ties the warp and/or weft threads tightly and immerses them in a dye bath. The tied sections resist the dye. When applied to several sections of threads in a sequence of dye baths, the method creates unique, vibrant and colorful patterns. This textile showcases the horse, which plays a huge role in the life of Sumbanese. Horses are their wealth and centuries ago the Sumbanese were trading their horses to the Chinese for ceramics (see The World of Indonesian Textiles by W. Warming and M. Gaworski, copyright 1981 Kodansha Int'l). The hinggi completes the attire of the Sumbanese horseman by functioning as a wrapper around his waist, which is held up by a wide leather belt, letting the fringed ends dangle between his legs. The textile is dyed with the traditional indigo blue from the young leaves of the indigo plant (indigofera tinctoria) and the prized kombu red from the roots of the mengkudu tree (morinda citrifolia). Both ends are fringed, though one end band at the top is turned over the rod in the catalog photo.

This Uzbek textile from northern Afghanistan is called a "bolim posh" meaning a canopy held over the bride and groom at the wedding ceremony. Embroidered in couching stitch ("basma") in mostly silk thread on a fine linen ground, it measures 125 W x 134 cm L. Some minor staining consistent with its age (mid to late 20th century). The stylized sun discs and flowers suggest the influence of ancient Scythian forms (for similar examples see Janet Harvey's book Traditional Textiles of Central Asia, pp 122-123).

A man's woolen coat from the Pashtun Mangal tribe. Made from a locally handwoven patti cloth, these coats are decorated with woolen embroidery, in branching patterns. The archaic, stylized designs are reminiscent of the woolen garments and felts from Central Asia, which is not surprising given the continuous trade linking Afghanistan with Central Asia. The Mangal tribe straddle both sides of the Pakistan/Afghanistan border and live mostly in the provinces of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Khost and Paktya. This coat is ornamented with gold couching, braided embroidery in long and short stitch, chain stitch, and herringbone stitch. Circa mid 20th century. Condition of this textile is very good, with some wear on the sleeves. This textile measures 36" x 64 5/8" (91.44 x 164.15 cm) including the sleeves.

This vintage Pashtun beaded purse from the mid 20th century is embroidered in an extremely fine ladder stitch in silk thread on a dark purple polyester ground. The thread colors are mustard, violet and kiwi green. The purse is embellished with tiny blue seed beads on the edges which is a traditional feature of Pashtun embroideries. It is lined with red cotton fabric in the interior. Condition is excellent. Dimensions are 11.5 x 12 cm closed, 11 x 22 cm when open.

The painstaking embroidery technique on this vintage Pashtun purse from Afghanistan is called "pokhtaduzi", or Romanian couching, where the thread is taken across the surface for the desired length, then, bringing the needle back to the beginning, it is caught down at regular intervals by tiny stitches. The process is repeated until the entire surface area is covered, the small holding stitches being staggered from one thread to the next, giving a characteristic relief to the pattern. The metallic thread is framed by metallic braiding and blue and white seed beads, intended to protect the wearer from the jinn. Condition is overall good, showing wear consistent with its age (estimated mid 20th century). 12.5 x 25 cm when opened, 11 x 12.5 cm when closed.

The stellar designs on this envelope-shaped purse is characteristic of the Pashtun embroidery from Katawaz province, renowned for its dense and meticulously worked ladder stitch. This small purse measures 14 x 26.5 cm when opened, 10 x 14.5 cm when closed. The silk embroidery is expertly worked on a deep purple silk ground, framed with blue glass seed beads, the interior lined in red printed cotton. Metallic thread is used as a decorative contrast to wonderful effect with buttonhole stitching, mirrors (shisha) and ladder stitch as accents. There is some fraying on the face to be expected from a piece dating to the mid 20th century.

Measuring 13.5 cm when closed, 30.5 cm when fully elongated, this charming beaded purse from Afghanistan was made by Pashtuns and is in excellent condition given its age (mid 20th century). Blue and white seed beads surround the edges, protecting the wearer from evil. The stitching technique is characteristic of Pashtun embroidery, with intricate ladder stitch and basma stitch, where the silk thread is taken parallel with the metallic thread, fastening it down at regular intervals. Condition is perfect.

A vintage Hmong textile from Laos, carefully crafted into a cushion cover backed with soft black pig suede. The cushion measures 11 1/4" x 15 1/2" with a 100% polyester insert. The textile itself consists of machine embroidery and reverse applique with some intricately worked hand embroidery as accents. The spirals symbolize longevity. Estimated age mid to late 20th century. Condition is overall great with some very minor fraying.

A child's embroidered dress front from Hunza valley, located in the rugged, mountainous northern areas of Pakistan. Silk thread on cotton ground, densely embroidered in cross stitch and petit point. Estimated age mid 20th century. Measures 28 x 48.5 cm (11 x 19"). Some staining on the front with some dye bleeding. The reverse is lined in silk.

A vintage choli from Pakistan, circa late 20th century. Hand embroidered in red and gold metallic thread on black chiffon to form abstract patterns. The choli is lined inside. Condition is excellent.