Catalog: Vintage Arts: Regional Art (266)

A small beaded purse made for storing kohl. Silk thread embroidered on cotton, worked in extremely fine satin stitch and filling stitch. Indus Kohistan is located in the province of Pakistan formerly known as the North-West Frontier Province (NWFP), recently re-named Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. In Persian, Kohistan means Land of Mountains. In Persian "koh" means "peak" and "istaan" means "land of". This textile measures 8.5x10 cm when closed, when opened, 10x16 cm. Condition: Excellent. Estimated age: mid 20th century.

This is a nice example of the ubiquitous "doga", embroidered talismans common to all the Turkic peoples of Central Asia. This amulet was made to protect the family from any evil influences from the world outside from affecting family health and harmony. This doga is from Bamiyan province, Afghanistan. Circa mid to late 20th century. Condition is overall good but there are some small sections of embroidery that are a little worn out. Cross stitch combines with satin and herringbone stitch to maximum effect in this unique little textile. The triangle measures 17.5 x 17 cm, with the tassles, 17.5 x 18 cm.

Embroidered on a brown plainweave cotton linen, this wedding food cover (lali posh) was made by the Lakai Uzbek residing near Kunduz in northern Afghanistan. Six suns edged with waves (symbolizing power) are worked in blanket stitch and chain stitch in bright, multicolored silk thread, surrounded by free-flowing, stylized floral motifs. The rasberry silk fringe border on all sides is crocheted and the reverse side of the textile is lined with two separate panels of printed fabric from Russia. Condition: Excellent. Measures 68 x 69 cm (including fringe). Circa mid to late 20th century. There is some fraying on the back lining, but the the textile is in otherwise perfect condition.

Pompoms adorn the edges of this densely embroidered textile made by the Kakarh tribe of Afghanistan. Metallic couching combined with Holbein, herringone and satin stitching characterize this piece. The reverse side is lined in plainweave striped cotton. The Kakarh have descendants in western provinces of Pakistan but are mostly found in Afghanistan and eastern Iran. This textile is in perfect condition and measures 20 x 31 1/2 inches (50.8 x 80 cm). Estimated age: mid 20th century.

An exceptionally fine embroidered purse from Katawaz (Ghazni province), Afghanistan, circa early to mid 20th century. The embroidery on this piece is basically metallic embroidery on both sides, with mirror stitching and fine metallic couching. The front side is comprised of Bokhara couching, where the thread is taken across the surface for the desired length, then, bringing the needle back to the beginning, it is caught down at regular intervals by small stitches. The process is repeated until the entire surface is covered, the small holding stitches being staggered from one thread to the next, giving a characteristic relief to the pattern. The blue beads are there to ward off the evil eye. A unique piece, not likely to bore. Condition: Excellent. No stains, no flaws of any kind. The purse measures 6 1/4 x 11 1/2 inches (15.9 x 29.2 cm) when fully extended and elongated. When closed, it measures 5 x 6 1/4 (12.7 x 15.9 cm).

A Pashtun nomad's purse from Katawaz, Ghazni province, circa mid 20th century. There are blue beads along all the edges, used to ward off the evil eye. The purse has metallic trim along all the edges and fine Bokhara couching which covers the entire surface area, front and back. The beaded cord winds around the purse to keep it closed. There are two pockets inside, lined with red cotton fabric. The purse measures 6 x 11 inches when opened and elongated, 5 x 6 1/2 inches when closed. The workmanship on this charming textile is staggering. Condition: Excellent. No fraying, no missing beads, no stains.

This is a woman's dress front from northern Afghanistan, circa mid 20th century. Embroidered in fine cross stitch on plainweave olive cotton, the field design device of interlocking crucifixes within diamonds is frequently seen on Shahsavan rugs and textiles. The top edge is embellished with Bukhara couching, which are metallic threads covering the entire surface area and fastened at regular intervals by small stitches to form a relief pattern. The back of the yoke is lined in mustard-colored cotton. Traditional Afghan dresses have a yoke under the neckline from which long panels of fabric flow. Sleeves are typically wide, and they wear matching cuffed pants (shalwar) underneath. The garments are decorated with embroidery at the yoke, the bottom of the sleeves, and the cuff of the pants. When a garment wears out, they remove the embroidered areas and re-use them in a new piece so that their progeny may share some of the original outfit. This panel measures 13x13 inches (33x33 cm).

This is a textile of superb workmanship, very typical of Hazara embroidery. The Hazara are the the third largest ethnic group in Afghanistan, residing mainly in the mountainous central provinces of Bamiyan, Ghazni and Orugzan. This child's dress front measures 32.5 x 65 cm. Solidly worked in cross stitch in silk thread, with satin stich on the waistbands, glass beads on the outer edges, and framed by Bokhara couching in metallic thread. Traditional Afghan dress yokes have a yoke under the neckline from which long panels of fabric flow. Sleeves are typically wide, and they wear matching cuffed pants (shalwar) underneath. The garments are decorated with embroidery at the yoke, the bottom of the sleeves, and the cuff of the pants. When a garment wears out, they remove the embroidered areas and re-use them in a new piece so that their progeny may share some of the original outfit. Approximate age of this textile is mid 20th century. Condition: Excellent.

A densely beaded Uzbek purse, probably from Mazar-i-Sharif or Kunduz, northern Afghanistan. The designs are typical of Uzbek embroidery in which variations on geometric shapes are emphasized for talismanic effect. The purse is edged with gold trim and blue beads as a prophylactic against the evil eye. The purse is lined with green and pink silk, and a red cotton fabric. There are three pockets inside. Condition: Excellent. Measures 15x25 cm when opened, 12x15 cm when closed. Estimated age: early to mid 20th century.

Magenta silk thread is worked in mostly horizontal rows with geometric patterns superimposed in random coloring on this child's waistcoat from the early 20th century. It features metallic couching on the top and bottom edges, with blue beads in the front to ward off the evil eye. Satin stitch combines with Holbein and back stitch to accentuate the lozenge designs that cover the entire surface of each panel. The Mangal are the largest, and perhaps the most powerful and influential of Pashtun tribes, residing in southeastern Paktia and adjacent Khost provinces of Afghanistan and over the Pakistani border in Waziristan. This charming textile is in excellent condition with three rows of missing beads (to be mended by the seller). The back panel is a plainweave striped cotton. The front of the shirt measures 29.8 x 33 cm, and each waistband measures 4 x 17.1 cm.

This saye gosha (or segusha) shows the dynamic use of line and vivid color for which Uzbek Lakai embroidery is famous. Saye gosha are V-shaped hangings used to decorate piles of quilts while in storage during the day in the yurt. The Lakai are an Uzbek tribe who currently live around Kunduz in northern Afghanistan. Originally more widespread, they were also once found in what is now Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. Silk thread in a combination of fine slanting blanket stitch and double chain stitch on a red plainweave cotton. The two panels are animated by whirling solar images edged with curvilinear and rounded wave-like motifs, densely arranged and tightly composed, but not overcrowded. The borders are embellished with twisted cotton fringes with beaded ends, a typical feature in Central Asian embroideries. This textile measures 9 1/2 inches x 28 inches on the right panel, 9 1/2 inches x 38 inches on the left panel. The back is lined in black cotton. Condition is excellent but for one inconspicuous stain on the right panel (on the magenta oval motif). Estimated age: early to mid 20th century.

Depicting whirling solar and cross motifs, this fringed panel is known as a "Lali posh", a food cover used to present flat bread loaves at traditional Uzbek weddings. Outlines of chain stitching are filled with rows of fine, angled blanket stitch in wool thread on a plain-woven wool cloth dyed a deep shade of madder red. Some overcast stitching joins the three separate paneled sections. This textile shows the dynamic use of line and color for which Uzbek Lakai embroidery is famous. The Lakai are an Uzbek tribe who currently live around Kunduz in northern Afghanistan. Originally more widespread, they were also once found in what is now Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. The piece measures 25 inches by 27 1/2 inches. Its estimated age is early to mid 20th century. Condition is good overall, though there is one small hole (see enlargement #9) and some sections of missing wool fringe.

Abstract floral patterns combine with medallion motifs in shades of dark red and pink in this kameez from the Hazara district, North West Frontier Province (recently re-named Khyber Pakhtunkhwa). Silk floss on cotton (a handwoven coarse cloth called khaddar), the embroidery is in the characteristic phulkari stitch which resembles a satin stitch but only on the front side. Each cuff has an embroidered band in brick stitch. The tunic measures 37 1/2 x 68 inches while each sleeve measures 27 1/2 inches from the hem. Dated to the early or mid 20th century, its condition is very good except for some stains around the gussets and on the back.

An old prayer napkin from Afghanistan, measuring 10 x 11 inches. It features very fine stitching characteristic of Hazara embroideries - satin stitch on a white linen background, in silk threads (yellow, blue, orange, green and red). The embroidery on the reverse side of this textile is exactly identical to the front side. Estimated age: early to mid 20th century. Condition is excellent except for some minor stain on the reverse side, displayed in the last photo.

Patchwork quilts ("rilhi") are among the finest folk art coverlets in Pakistan. Sindhis have traditionally used them as ground covers at outdoor Sufi religious festivals. This rilhi is from Thatta and measures 75 1/2 inches by 95 inches. It is dated to the mid 20th century. Condition is excellent (no holes, stains, nor repairs).

This embroidered panel is a ceremonial food cover made by the Lakai, an Uzbek tribe living in small villages near the northern Afghanistan city of Kunduz. The Lakai came to Afghanistan in the 16th century but they were once also found in what is now Uzbekistan and southern Tajikistan. This textile is composed of stylized star and solar shapes embroidered in silk thread in fine angled blanket stitch and chain stitch on a red plain-woven cotton. These highly abstract designs are typical of Lakai embroidered textiles. This traditional wedding textile dates to the early to mid 20th century and measures 35 1/2 inches x 35 1/2 inches (90 x 90 cm). Condition: Excellent.

A boy's sleeveless waistcoat from Indus Kohistan, located in the province of Pakistan formerly known as the North-West Frontier Province (NWFP), recently re-named Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. It is a superb piece, embroidered on black cotton fabric with mostly white glass seed beads and multi-colored buttons. The vest measures 14 inches by 15 inches (35.6 cm x 38.1 cm) and is estimated to date to the middle to late 20th century. The embroidery is extremely fine, mainly cross stitch in cotton thread, with some satin and back stitch forming diamond patterns and multi-colored triangles composed of several smaller triangles, each in a different color and with a contrasting border. The dominant color is red, then emerald green, orange, yellow and touches of royal blue. The condition of the waistcoat is excellent with no missing beads and no damage whatsoever. Kohistan literally means "Hilly Country" and refers to the sub-6000 meter peaks enclosing this remote canyon as well as those peaks in upper Swat and lower Dir.

Measuring 6 inches x 8 inches (20.5 cm x 14.5 cm) including the beaded fringes, this dazzling purse is from Bamiyan and is probably dated to 1940 or slightly later. The purse features couched metallic threads, gold couching, mirrors, and beaded fringes. An intricate array of curvilinear and geometric designs almost completely covers the dark navy silk background. The purse is lined with silk fabric. A textile of superb workmanship, very typical of Pashtun embroidery but quite possibly as well of Hazara embroidery. For as Bernard Dupaigne has noted, the Hazara have developed a hybrid style that incorporates elements from their own embroidery traditions and those of their neighbors, the Pashtuns. This may also be the inevitable result of the geographical proximity of the Hazara and Pashtuns living in Ghazni and Uruzgan.

A hand-embroidered Hazara cloth from Afghanistan, circa mid 20th century. Silk thread on a white linen background executed in satin stitch. Condition is excellent. No flaws nor stains. Measures 31.3 cm x 31.8 cm.

A woman's wedding shawl from Indus Kohistan, circa mid 20th century. This elaborately decorated textile is embroidered in floss-silk thread on twill-woven, black cotton cloth. It is tightly constructed of two overlapping embroidered panels, each with white beaded fringing. The beads are mostly white, clear red and opaque turquoise. The embroidered patterns are accentuated with sequins and small mirrors encased in brass. The stitching on this texile is elaborate, a combination of a tiny cross stitch worked in patterns of minute squares at the top embroidered band (see last enlargement) and a longer satin/darning stitch reminiscent of the phulkari stitches of Hazara district. Interlocking rhomboid and triangular motifs dominate the piece, in deep pink, gold, orange, and two shades of green (emerald and apple green). The emerald green embroidery unfortunately appears as blue in the photos. The shawl is embellished also with gold couching at the top and bottom. Overall, the colors are mixed and evenly balanced to vivid effect. This texile measures 63 x 76 1/2 inches (160 x 194.3 cm).

A hand-embroidered Hazara prayer cloth, made to protect the prayer stone, with a stylized depiction of the prayer niche, probably from Ghazni or Bamiyan province, circa mid 20th century. This exquisite embroidery on a white linen background depicts the severed hands of Hazrat Abbas, alluding to the battle of Kerbala. Silk thread in bright colors executed in a fine satin stitch and tassles on each of the four corners. These cloths are used in prayer to place the forehead. Condition of this textile is near excellent except for the slight brown staining in the upper right hand corner. This textile measures 38.1 x 39.4 cm.

A finely embroidered textile from Afghanistan made by Hazara women, measuring 12 inches by 13 inches. Embroidered in silk thread in mostly filling stich and satin stitch on a white cotton linen background. Although the embroidery designs are geometric and simple, it is the constant change of color on each of the embroidered panels that animates this prayer cloth ("mohr posh"). Late 20th century.

A woman's dress bodice from Afghanistan, hand-embroidered by the Kakarh tribe. The Kakarh are primarily found in Baluchistan, where they still make up the majority of indigenous Pashtuns, but they also reside in the southern districts of Zabul province in Afghanistan as well as eastern Iran. This piece measures 18 x 56 inches (45.7 x 142.2 cm). Black, yellow and red pompoms accentuate the front of the bodice which is embroidered in satin and herringbone stitch. The vibrant colors also feature areas of metallic couching.

A Pashtun nomad's purse from Katawaz, Ghazni province, Afghanistan, circa early to mid 20th century. This purse has three pockets with flaps and features blue and white beads all around the edges (blue beads are believed to ward off the blue evil eye). Fine silk ladder stitch in blue, green, orange, purple and bergundy, depicting whorl designs on a red silk background. The stylized, radiating designs are typical of Pashtun embroidery. The purse is embellished with many mirrors (shisha), sewn in mirror stitch, and the edges of each pocket are enhanced with gold metallic couching. The middle flap exhibits the dense beadwork in which the Pashtuns excel.

A Pashtun Mangal child's shirt front, circa early or mid 20th century. Silk thread on cotton in a dense satin stitch is worked in horizontal rows, forming geometric patterns of lozenges and chevrons in mostly peach and black thread which cover the entire embroidered surface. The lozenges are accentuated by diagonal lines in brown thread which are worked in Holbein stitch and back stitch, contrasting with the overall magenta color of the dress front. The bottom edge is accented with metallic couching and cording. The upper portions of the dress front are embellished with amuletic designs in gold and silk thread on blue satin. The Mangal tribe inhabit both sides of the Pakistan/Afghan border which includes Waziristan in Pakistan, southeastern Paktia and adjacent Khost provinces of Afghanistan. Measures 31 x 53.5 cm. Condition: Excellent.

This hand-stitched cupola-shaped hat is called a doppi and features satin, herringbone and cross stitch in cotton thread. It has a pink cotton tassle on the side and a braided string at the top. Diameter: 20 cm; circumference: 52.5 cm. Condition: Excellent. Mid to late 20th century.

The elaborate traditional costume of Kohistani women is comprised of a dress (jumlo) and shawl (chuprai) which are worn over trousers with finely embroidered cuffs. The shawl is constructed of two overlapping rectangular panels, hemmed with white beaded fringing. The two bottom corners are joined by turning up the lower edge, and the join is embellished with a triangular beaded motif which functions as an amulet, while adding weight to the bottom edge. Small metal mirrors and pendants dangle across the shawl, and an old zipper serves as a decorative edging at the bottom. The stitching is in silk floss on black cotton, a combination of tent stitch (also called petit point), cross stitch, and satin stitch which is very similar in style to the phulkari-type stitch of Swat valley. This shawl is estimated to date to the early 20th century and measures 63 x 88 inches (160 x 223.5 cm). The women of Indus Kohistan may spend half a year to produce a single wedding shawl.

A tobacco pouch from Indus Kohistan, probably Palas or Kolai valley. Cotton embroidered with silk in satin stitch. The string on the side of the bag is used to hang the pouch from a huqqa (water pipe) while it is being smoked. Circa second half of 20th century. Condition of this textile is excellent.

A Kuchi dress from Afghanistan from the second half of 20th century. The dress bodice has a front slit with button closure, and dense silk embroidery adorns the bodice, sleeve ends, and bottom hem. The embroidery is mostly satin stitch, with ladder stitch and herringbone stitch on black cotton. The embroidered sleeve bands and bottom embroidered band are 2 inches in width. The printed fabric is cotton, with small turquoise, yellow and red motifs on a black background. Condition of the dress is overall excellent, except for small sections where the embroidery has worn thin, mostly around the neckline, sleeve bands, and bottom hem band. Bodice: 11 3/4 x 15 1/2". Bust: 20" (armpit to armpit). Waist: 17". Hips: 32". Sleeve length (armpit to sleeve hem): 23". Shoulder to sleeve hem: 28 1/4". Shoulders: 4 1/4". Bodice front slit: 4". Sleeve opening: 19". Total length of dress: 53". Bottom hem of dress: 98".

A small embroidered purse from Jaghori in Ghazni province, Afghanistan, circa mid 20th century. On fine black cotton and lined with printed fabric from Ivanovo. Extremely fine silk thread in mostly satin stitch, in various shades of yellow, green, purple and brick red, forming small, regular chevron patterns in diagonal across the entire surface of the purse. A white plastic button serves as a closure. Filling stitch is used on the flap to produce a diagonal design which is set inside another row of satin stitches in white. The background cotton fabric is almost completely obscured by the embroidery. This is a simple yet complex piece of embroidery. It measures 4 x 4 inches when closed, 4 x 6 1/8 inches when opened.

In mostly satin stitch and cross stitch in silk thread, this piece measures 45½ x 36½ inches (115.6 x 92.7 cm). Saye goshe are an Uzbek V-shaped fringed hanging used to decorate piles of quilts when they are stored during the day. The blazing colors on this textile depict traditional Uzbek motifs with stylized pomegranate flowers. Still living in yurts, the Lakai Uzbek have perfected the interior decoration of their homes. The yurt is embellished with bands, cushions and covers for the bed linen which is folded against the walls during the day. The Uzbeks have preserved the traditions and embroideries of Central Asia. Condition: Excellent. Age: Second half of 20th century.

This is an old textile piece from Afghanistan, circa mid 20th century, made by Pashtuns from Ghazni province. It is a child's dress front. The textile features traditional motifs in cross stitch, silk thread in yellow, green and blue on a cotton background. There is metallic braiding appliqued on the sides and metallic silver couching at the top. The side tabs at the bottom are executed in herringbone stitch on a white cotton background. The piece is trimmed with blue glass beads at the collar (blue glass beads are traditionally used to ward off evil), and multi colored beads down the front and at the bottom. Traditional Pashtun dress yokes have a yoke under the neckline from which long panels of fabric flow. Sleeves are typically wide, and they wear matching cuffed pants (shalwar) underneath. The garments are decorated with embroidery at the yoke, the bottom of the sleeves and the cuff of the pants. When a garment wears out, they remove the embroidered areas and re-use them in a new piece so that their progeny may share some of the original outfit. The back side of this piece is a red printed cotton. It measures 12 x 21.1 inches (30.5 x 53.6 cm). Condition of the textile is excellent.

Measuring 10¾ inches x 16 inches, this child's dress front is from Jaghori in Ghazni province. Estimated age is mid 20th century. The embroidery is amazingly precise, fine cross stitch in silk thread, while the back is a pink printed fabric probably from Russia. The edges are adorned with metallic Bokhara couching and a gold braid that frames the overall design. The bottom tabs depict rosettes in silk floss in satin stitch on white cotton. Condition of this piece is almost excellent, but there is some fraying at the shoulder hems.

The Mangal are one of the largest and perhaps the most powerful and influential Pashtun tribes, residing mostly in Southeastern Paktia and adjacent Khost provinces of Afghanistan. They are renowned for their independent nature and a long history of resisting British forces, central and provincial governments, Soviet army, and even fellow Pashtun Taliban militia. The Mangal tribe also reside in Pakistan's Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa province, and Waziristan, in FATA (Federally Administered Tribal Areas). This child's dress yoke was made by Mangali women and is composed of very thick bergundy silk thread embroidered in vertical bands of heavy whip stitch on a cotton background, with traditional tribal patterns in solid stiches. It measures 11 1/4 x 11 3/4 inches (28.6 x 29.8 cm). Condition is excellent and dates to the early to mid 20th century.

This child's dress front in cross stich from central Afghanistan dates to the mid to late 20th century. It measures 11¾ x 18 inches (29.8 x 45.7 cm). Traditional Hazara pieces (the smallest ethnic minority group of Afghanistan), like Pashtun pieces, have a yoke under the neckline from which gathered, long panels of fabric flow. Sleeves are normally wide, and they wear matching cuffed pants underneath. The garments are decorated with embroidery at the yoke, the collar, the bottom of the sleeves and the cuff of the pants. When a garment wears out, they remove the embroidered areas and re-use them in a new piece, so several generations might share some of the original outfit. This yoke features various diamond motifs in bright pink, yellow, green, maroon and blue in cotton floss embroidered in cross stitch. The neckline is an intricate pattern of densely embroidered metallic threads against a blue satin background. The back is lined with red and blue cotton fabric. This piece features an amulet on the bottom front, embroidered in metallic threads, placed there to protect against evil. The condition of the textile is excellent.

A man's shawl from Waziristan which is part of the Federally Administered Tribal Areas, considered to be outside Pakistan's four provinces. Circa 1920s. The Mangal tribe who inhabit Waziristan actually straddle the border between Pakistan and Afghanistan. This textile is very complex, composed of a black woven cotton field and silk ends, with silk embroidery in between. The combination of black cotton ground and silk is used to vivid effect. The piece measures 87 inches by 51½ inches (221 cm x 130.8 cm). The silk threads are in bergundy, turquoise, mustard yellow, white, black and blue. Only the black background is cotton, the rest of the piece is woven silk. Warp-faced, embroidered, supplementary weft, and hand-sewn techniques are all visible especially in enlargement #10. This textile is comprised of two pieces stitched together at the center with yellow thread. Condition: Excellent, just a small spot on the front that may appear faded but this is from decades of wear.