Catalog: Vintage Arts: Regional Art (266)

A child's embroidered dress front from Hunza valley, located in the rugged, mountainous northern areas of Pakistan. Silk thread on cotton ground, densely embroidered in cross stitch and petit point. Estimated age mid 20th century. Measures 28 x 48.5 cm (11 x 19"). Some staining on the front with some dye bleeding. The reverse is lined in silk.

This is a woman's dress panel ("pushk kurta") from Baluchistan, measuring 43 x 52 cm. Embroidered in silk thread in a combination of interlacing, herringbone, long and short stitch, and extremely fine satin stitch, it depicts diamond shape medallions ("paraiz zarto")and arched columns with intricately repeated geometric motifs which are typical of Baluch embroidery. The most intricate pushks are produced in Makran and other coastal areas of Baluchistan. This is a dazzling and beautiful textile in very good condition. In this part of the world women trim the painstakingly embroidered sections from worn clothing and reapply it to new garments.

This is a bed decoration from northern Afghanistan made by Uzbeks of the Lakai tribe. Traditionally these textiles were placed between layers of bedding quilts at the back of the yurt. This segusha measures 72 x 80 x 115 cm when folded into a triangle, and the embroidery is silk thread on faded red cotton edged with silk fringes, combining satin stitch with long and short stitch. The overall design is dense but not overcrowded, depicting stylized flowers, insects and birds, evoking the image of a garden in bloom. The outline of one unfinished detail can be seen in the upper right hand corner (enlargement #4). Condition: Excellent on the front, but there are some small stains on the reverse side of the textile. Estimated age: mid 20th century.

A woman's dress panel from Baluchistan, densely embroidered in Holbein stitch, blanket stitch, chain stitch, and satin stitch in silk, cotton and metal thread. Most Baluchi women labor for years embroidering fine works of art for their daughters’ dowries. Small girls begin to learn basic stitches and patterns at about the age of six or seven years. They do not use charts or diagrams but instead create extremely complex designs from memory, often with assistance and suggestions from family members or neighbors. This textile measures 29.5 x 40 cm. Condition: Excellent. The diamond repeat pattern in columns is typical of these embroidered dress panels, which are sewn on to silk or cotton to form a dress called a pashk. the diamond repeat pattern is known as "paraiz zarto" in the Baluch language. The estimated age of this textile is late 20th century.

This tobacco pouch ("kochor") from Indus Kohistan is embroidered in silk thread on cotton, with extremely fine cross- tent and satin-stitch, and white glass beaded tassels to adorn the edges. The bag measures 7" x 8" with the tassels. There is a string on the side of the bag which is used to hang the purse from the water pipe ("huqqa") while it is being smoked. There is some slight damage on one face, unsurprising given the age of this purse which is estimated to date from the mid to late 20th century. Kohistan (meaning "land of mountains") has two distinct meanings in Pakistan. In Persian "koh" means "peak" and "ustaan" means province". In its usual modern sense Kohistan District is an administrative district within Pakistan's Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa Province covering an area of 7,492 square kilometres (2,893 sq mi). In a broader historic and geographic sense, Kohistan is used for a region that stretches from the border with Azad Kashmir in the east to Afghanistan's Nuristan province in the west.

This textile from Afghanistan measures 24 x 27 cm and is dated to the mid 20th century. The highlights of this textile are the four mirrors ("shisha") which are made of mirror glass and used as an amulet to ward off the evil eye. The embroidery is silk thread on a plum cotton ground, in straight stitch, ladder stitch and Holbein stitch, all combined in an effective way to make the overall composition. The Mangal are one of the largest and perhaps the most powerful and influential Pashtun tribes, residing in southeastern Paktia and adjacent Khost provinces of Afghanistan. The name Mangal is derived from the Sanskrit name for the planet Mars. The Mangal are known for their independent nature, and have a long history of resisting British forces, central and provincial governments, Soviet army, and even fellow Pashtun Taliban militia. Condition of this textile is excellent. The embroidery is all made by hand, not by machine.

Embroidered purses ("bushkiri") are used by the Baluch for carrying and storing valuables and bridal dowry gifts. This purse from Baluchistan measures 20.3 x 32.5 cm when opened, 19.2 x 20 cm when closed, and is dated to the early to mid 20th century. This densely worked purse features intricate repeating geometric patterns and colors worked in a delicate satin stitch, combined with a meticulously worked interlacing stitch on a fine linen ground. The renowned vibrancy of Baluchi embroidery can be seen in this piece by the complex division of the design into contrasting areas of densely worked embroidery, intricately arranged into a wider design field of triangular motifs. The vertical lines, divided by rows of chain stitch in black thread held by small white stitches, are typical of Baluchi work. Baluchistan is the largest but most sparsely populated province of Pakistan, largely inhabited by nomadic and semi-nomadic groups whose culture and traditions are quite distinct from the other ethnic groups of Pakistan. The condition of this purse is good, some discoloration on the purse flap.

This is a wedding shift from Indus Kohistan in Pakistan. Kohistan, meaning "land of mountains", has been a crossroads between Central, South and Southwestern Asia, absorbing artistic influences from the ancient Greeks and Scythians. Measuring 190 cm extended from sleeve to sleeve, the bust is 45 cm; arm opening: 34 cm; from shoulder to bottom hem: 104 cm. The embroidery technique is brick stitch and cross stich in a combination of acrylic and silk thread. Condition is excellent. For more information on these textiles please see Colours of the Indus by Nasreen Askari and Rosemary Crill © 1997 Merrell Holberton Publishers, pp. 132-133). Estimated age mid to late 20th century.

This is a textile piece from Afghanistan, probably from Bamiyan province. It is a child's vest which features very intricate embroidered patterns in bright colors and in cotton floss, in cross stitch. The top is embellished with silver metallic threads and the vest is trimmed with green glass beads on the sides, center and bottom. The back is a purple cotton fabric. The lining on the inside is a blue cotton fabric with diamond motifs. There is an amulet on the front, at the bottom, composed of white, orange, yellow and green glass beads, placed there to protect against evil. The date of this piece is estimated to be 30-40 years old. The vest itself measures 12 1/4 x 11 1/2 inches across the front (31.1 x 29.2 cm) and the bottom band measures 1 1/4 x 16 inches (3.2 x 40.6 cm). Condition is excellent.

Strong geometric shapes densely embroidered in satin stich in vibrant colors animate this Hazara textile from central Afghanistan which is estimated to date to the mid 20th century. Silk thread embroidered on a fine cotton linen ground, the patterns are artfully joined into a robust and dynamic unity. Embroidery is an important winter activity for Hazara women who inhabit mountainous central Afghanistan, including Bamiyan, Oruzgan and Ghazni provinces. The Hazara are Shi'ite Muslims who comprise about 19% of the total population of Afghanistan. This textile is in perfect condition and measures 35 x 38.3 cm. The continuous supplementary-weft technique makes this textile reversible and either face may be used as the front.

Measuring 15 x 26 cm this charming purse is completely hand-embroidered in silk thread on a polyester ground. The embroidery is a very finely worked ladder stitch combined with Romanian couching ("pokhtaduzi") so densely worked as to almost completely obscure the background fabric. The metal thread around the mirrors is fastened down at regular intervals with small holding stitches, producing a characteristic relief to the pattern. Blue seed beads on all the edges are intended to ward off the jinn from the wearer. Three inside pockets. The wallet is estimated age mid 20th century and is in excellent condition. Silk tassels on a braided silk cord forms the closure.

Living in the mountainous terrain of central Afghanistan where the cold and snow isolate entire villages for months, the minority Hazara women have developed a terse embroidery style of cross stitch and interlocking eight-pointed star motifs to produce their dowries. This textile from central Afghanistan is embroidered in silk thread on a plain weave cotton linen background. The top right corner is left unfinished, part of this textile's understated appeal. It measures 14 inches by 14 1/2 inches. It is being sold in a glass frame (black metal frame). Condition is perfect. Estimated age: late 20th century.

A pair of doilies from Afghanistan, with gul-i-peron discs and extensive beadwork, mirrorwork. They are in excellent condition and measure 19 x 19 cm. Intricate ladder stitch and button hole stitching are the embroidery techniques, plus metal thread and Bukhara stitching. These doilies were made for a woman's dowry and would form part of her trousseau. Estimated age mid to late 20th century.

Embroidered in long and short stitch in rayon thread, this prayer cloth is from central Afghanistan where the minority Shi'a Hazara people live, comprising about 19% of the total population of Afghanistan. The textile depicts the domed tomb ("Mashhad Hussein") of Hussein, the grandson of the prophet Muhammad, in Kerbala, Iraq, the holiest shrine of the the Twelve-Imam Shi'ite Muslims. The background is a polyester cloth embroidered in vibrant primary colors, alluding to the mosque and minarets of Kerbala. The image is tersely framed by embroidered rosettes and leaves. This textile is in excellent condition and dates to the late 20th century.

This pair of embroidered squares were made by Pashtun nomad tribeswomen of Hazarajat. They dazzle the eye with their vibrant colors and mirrored discs ("gul-i-peron") which enliven the quadrants of each textile. Each square measures 24.5 x 24.5 cm and is embroidered in silk thread on a green silk background, depicting radiating solar motifs in a carefully composed symmetry. A meticulously worked ladder stitch forms the whorl designs central to the composition which is framed by silver metallic thread, with the edges fringed with beadwork. Condition is excellent. Estimated age: late 20th century.

This cushion cover from Hazara district features stylized floral patterns and curvilinear geometric motifs outlined with a top stitch of black thread on mustard-colored cotton. Touches of turquoise and shocking pink combine with rust-colored silk floss thread to create an overall design suggestive of central Asian influence. It measures 41 x 41 cm and is in excellent condition. Late 20th century.

Depicting delicate motifs in somber, predominantly blue-black combined with discrete touches of rusty red, this textile from the Savu Islands of eastern Indonesia is called a selindang. The shawls are worn by women over their shoulders, to complete their sarong attire. This textile is estimated to date to the late 20th century and is constructed by warp ikat, warp-faced, with fringes. It measures 71 x 191 cm and is in perfect condition. The dye is a natural indigo.

A prayer cloth (mohr posh) embroidered by Hazara women, probably originating from Ghazni, Uruzgan or Bamiyan province. These prayer cloths are unique to the Hazara and are used to wrap the Shi'a prayer stone, called the mohr. At the time of prayer, the stone is laid on the cloth so that the worshipper touches with his forehead the small square where the stone is placed. The stone depicts the mosque and minarets of Karbela. Strong geometric patterns have been embroidered in satin stitch in bright colors. Though the patterns are stiff and regular, showing no individuality, the constant change of color, and particularly the white beaded fringes and embroidered borders, animate it. It is a very delicate and subtle piece, measuring 23 x 23 inches (58.4 x 58.4 cm).