Catalog: Estate Jewelry (468)

This lovely pin is composed of lacy, intricate sterling filigree work surrounding an oval-shaped piece of carnelian. One delicate filigree band is gilded and the other is highly oxidized for contrast. There is a gilded rollover clasp of good quality, probably added later to replace a C-clasp but contemporary to the period of 1950s-1960s. The stone shows no wear or scratching. The back exhibits the words “Italy” and “sterling.” The pin measures 1 ¾ inches long by 1 ½ inches wide.

A classic looking bracelet, composed of a thick cuban link chain with a clasp formed as a belt with a buckle. The belt has two holes, and can be adjusted for a larger wrist, but looks best and is most secure when fastened at the smaller size. The belt end is secured by a hinged bar representing the belt loop. Accounting for the best fit, the bracelet length is about 7 ¼ inches; it is ½ inch wide at the buckle. The marks for Italy and sterling are on the underside of the belt, as well as a maker’s mark of a W in a square. Weight: 25.5 grams

A charming piece composed of a sterling silver fish pendant on its original chain, this necklace exhibits the fine workmanship typical of mid-century Italian jewelry. The fish’s features are enhanced with cobalt and green enamel, and its tail moves on a hinge. All the pieces are riveted together, and the cable chain features flattened, oval links. The pendant and chain bear the Italian mark for sterling, registered Arezzo, dating 1944-1968. The pendant measures 2 inches long (including the bail) by 1½ inches wide; the chain measures 13 ¾ inches long when doubled. Weight: 24.1 grams total

This 1960s necklace features narrow, vertical panels of graduated length with a textured surface decorated with pink and yellow gilding; the edges show a bit of darker oxidation. Competently constructed and designed to sit flat and move gracefully when worn; all panels are in place and show no signs of wear. The box clasp, which has a figure-eight safety catch, is marked Italy, with possible maker’s initials of FGS; they overlay the mark for .925 (sterling) silver. The necklace measures 16 inches long; the fringe width ranges from ¼ inch to 1 inch at the center. Weight: 30.7 grams

This handmade wide band ring features a random design of molten drops on a textured surface. The irregular band shape has an upturned edge along the top, where the opposite edge comes to a rounded point. It bears the post-1967 Italian mark for silver, hallmarked for the city of Siena; the hallmark is double-struck, so the maker's number could read 722, 712 or something similar. The maker's signature is partially obscured, so that the first initial 'S.' is clear, as is the end of the name, 'gli.' Above the signature is the Italian phrase 'Fatto a mano,' for handmade. The sterling mark of 925 is clear, and the ring tests positive for sterling. It is sized at approximately a 5; re-sizing is not advised. The top of the band, at the measures nearly 7/8 in. at the widest area, graduating to 3/8 in. at the back, where the marks are located. Weight: 10.1 grams

Of hollow construction and graduated thickness, with angular sides. The top surface of the bracelet has been machine-etched in a tight zig-zag pattern. The hinge has a good spring and the bracelet has retained its shape and sits nicely on the wrist. The inner circumference measures 7 inches; the bracelet opens to 1 ½ inches to slide over the hand. It is light and comfortable to wear, with a classic neat look. It has the Italian post-1968 mark for sterling. Weight: 15.6 grams

Composed of cast rectangular double links, this classy bracelet from the 1960s-1970s is sturdy and well made with completely soldered connecting bars. The bracelet has a good heft and a secure, clever clasp with a pressure spring closure. The bracelet is marked for sterling, with a partial mark of ITALY and a double-struck partial sterling mark. The bracelet measures 7 ¾ inches long and a little over ¼ inch wide. Weight: 29.6 grams

These cuff links feature nice spinach jade buttons with beveled edges. Two of them are decorated with a central pearl; both pairs feature 14kt gold bridge bars and connecting rings. The hardware is unmarked. Each button measures 3/8 inch across.

Six silver panels frame embossed, hand-painted porcelain panels, in a style very popular during the 1950s and early 1960s. They depict four chrysanthemums and two orchids, in shades of pink and purple, white, yellow centers all on black backgrounds. The bracelet was made by the Toshikane company of Japan, as marked on the box clasp. The metal has been tested for silver; the ring links between the panels are secure. The clasp is in good working order and the bracelet still has its original safety chain. The porcelains are in lovely condition with vivid colors. The bracelet measures 6 ½ inches long and about 7/8 inch wide.

This textured cuff bracelet features a pocked surface and is decorated with applied half-beads of molded silver. The piece is unmarked, but definitively tests as silver, possibly sterling. Its surface exhibits areas of oxidation, and a couple of areas where the texture didn’t take in the molding process. The bracelet measures 1 ½ inches wide, with an interior circumference of just under 7 inches, including the 1 ¼-inch opening between the terminals. Weight: 52.3 grams

A stunning design of rectangular panels with applied calla lilies, vines and 12-kt gold-filled leaves. This maker is unknown, but produced an impressive series of calla lily jewelry with hand-applied decoration. A folded end panel forms a very secure hook clasp. The bracelet has two safety chains. There is no maker’s mark, only marks for sterling and 1/20 12-kt. gold-filled decoration. The bracelet measures 1 ½ inches wide by 7 ¼ inches long. Weight: 86.3 grams

This sterling silver pendant features a textured surface and is in the shape of an Asian-like symbol. It is marked 925 on the back, along with an unidentified mark. It measures 3 3/8 inches long by 1 ½ inches wide. Weight: 43.7 grams

This bold bracelet, probably American, has a modern sensibility that belies its ca. 1890 origins. It is composed of a polished hollow sterling silver curb chain with a sterling heart-shaped padlock closure. This padlock has no key but can be opened simply by a gentle tug on the lever mechanism and a gentle push to close. The chain has no marks (though tests for sterling); the top of the padlock indicates sterling, which suggests an American origin. The chain is undecorated and has no dented or misshapen links aside from a very minor impression one of the terminal links that attach to the padlock. The padlock has one long scratch on the front, visible in the photo; it is less visible to the eye. The bracelet measures 8 inches long (excluding the clasp) and 5/8 of an inch wide. The padlock measures approximately 3/4 inch across. Weight: 38 grams

Composed of delicate vertical leaf fronds, this necklace looks to be of fine gold, but is really made of gold-plated metal. The bright surface shows very little wear, due to Krementz & Company’s rolled gold-plating process used on the Newark, NJ, firm’s best lines of costume jewelry. The leaves are textured with detailed lines produced by careful engine-turned engraving. The chain is composed of tiny cylindrical pieces secured to a fine wire so that they are stabilized. There is a spike and drum closure, and the script Krementz signature appears on the back of one leaf. It dates from the 1950s. Each leaf measures a little over 1 1/4 inches long; the necklace measures 15 1/4 inches long.

This continuous chain is beautifully made, composed of tiny rectangles that are attached in perpendicular links. It has a substantial feel and has a seamless, snake-like movement. It works with a pendant or as a classic look by itself, doubled or tripled. Doubled, the chain measures 29 ¼ inches long. It is unmarked, and has a soft patina like old silver; it is probably silver plated, and dates from the 1960s or 1970s.

This long, continuous chain is made of white metal links that test very slightly for silver; it is probably European. It is constructed of multiple flat, rope-like loops that intersect to form four lobes. It hangs 36 inches from the neck, and can be worn in a variety of ways – knotted, doubled, tripled, or tied loosely around the neck like a lariat necklace. It measures 1/4 inch wide. Weight: 91.2 grams

This disc pin features a large faceted citrine in a bold prong setting. The stone has a light yellow-brown tinge and shows no signs of damage or wear. It is quite secure in its mount. The disc has a warm patina from age; the piece dates conservatively 1960-1970. The back has a secure rollover clasp and bears the marks for Mexican silver (eagle 42, circular 925 Sterling) as well as the maker’s mark for Los Ballesteros. There appears to have been a pendant bale or hook that has been removed. The pin measures 1 5/8 inches in diameter.

This bold Mexican sterling silver bracelet is composed of domed hollow panels with complex cut-out designs based on pre-Columbian motifs. It was made by the premier Taxco workshop of Los Ballesteros. It has a very secure tongue-and-groove clasp with a graceful curved knob; the bracelet also appears to have the original safety chain. The cut work is intact; the hollowed areas within are oxidized to dramatically set off the designs. There are some very minor dents in the sides of a few panels. There is a maker’s mark on one side of the tongue, and a partial Hecho en Mexico mark on the other side. The bracelet has an interior circumference of about 6 1/2 inches when closed; it measures about 3/4 inch wide and about 3/8 inch at the highest dome.