Catalog: Archives: Estate Jewelry (467)

Out of Mexico's "archaeological" design trend, an early Deco bracelet that combines beautifully aged silver with deeply colored amethyst cabochons. The overlaid motif, meticulously hand-cut, chased and etched, has been perfectly applied on the curved link and represents a scene of Mexico's pre-Colombian rituals. The bracelet measures 7 1/8" long (wearable) by 1 5/8" wide and weighs 58.2 grams. It dates in the 1930s-40s period and is simply marked "SILVER MEXICO"...

An iconic design for Salvador Teran - and possibly one of my absolute favorite designs in Mexican silver ever - this is a pair of "Dancers" earrings. Teran's signature abstraction is clearly evident here as is the innovative way he used the "shadowbox" technique. Measuring 1 1/16" by 7/8" the earrings weigh 14.8 grams and are in excellent vintage condition with fantastic patina and their oxidation in very good shape...

Based on Matilde Poulat's "Paloma" design, the necklace at hand is only hallmarked with Eagle 1 assay mark, which was also used by Matl herself. Its quality and workmanship as you can see is such that justifies the assumption that it might easily have come out of the big maestra's workshop - the repousse dove is carefully rendered; the stones are beautiful and tightly set; and the silver work bespeaks the time and effort the necklace's maker put into crafting it...

A master lapidary, Enrique Ledesma has a magical way of seamlessly marrying silver and stone and the bracelet presented here is one of his signature designs. I am very partial to azur-malachite and just by looking at the richness of the blues and greens in the stones you can understand why. Measuring 7" long (wearable) the bracelet is 3/4" wide and weighs 35.5 grams. It is signed with Ledesma's name as well as "TAXCO HECHO EN MEXICO", "925" and also bears Eagle 3 assay mark and des. no 202...

A mystery maker - nothing is known about him/her despite the fact that the specific signature is referred to in the literature - the creator of this hinged, mutli-row bead and turquoise bracelet did a amazing job indeed! Repousse beaded bracelets of this type come in various widths and silver/stone combinations. I have seen them with amethyst, black onyx and obsidian and love the turquoise variation...

Exquisitely crafted sterling silver and amethyst bracelet and earrings showcasing Margot de Taxco's unsurpassed design genius and her incredible ability to create pieces that are distinctly feminine without looking overly dainty and fragile...

I am fascinated by the beauty and craftsmanship of early 20th c. Chinese jewelry - their repousse is outstanding, the detail and complexity of the figural pieces difficult to put to words and the window they open onto a culture so distant and enchanting literally invaluable. The scene that covers the face of all 7 curved links in this bracelet constitutes a proud statement of wealth, accomplishment and family pride...

One of Margot's most opulent creations, the mirrored swans necklace is an ode to the art of repoussage and an avidly sought after piece. The example at hand, perfectly finished, with stunning patina and a richness that impresses without feeling pretentious is a comfortable 16 1/2" long (could even be a little more in wearable length due to the dip in between the swans). The mirrored swans part is 4 3/8" wide and has a 2 3/8" drop while the width at the chain is 3/8"...

Quite impressive with its big, variegated agate cabochon - I believe this is actually moss agate - and extremely rare this is a Mexican ring with strong presence by Enrique Ledesma, one of Taxco's foremost modernist silversmiths. I love the asymmetrical setting - it creates a feeling of continuous flow and movement that accentuates the earthiness of the agate - and the fantastic way that Ledesma has of combining metal and stone. The ring bears the Eagle 60 assay mark, which in Bille Houga...

Early Matilde Poulat bracelet in the jeweled style inextricably associated with her, this is a true collector's item from Matl's first creative period. Pieces like this become all the more difficult to find and this example is gorgeous. The amethysts are open-backed here with interesting inclusions yet no chips or breaks, and the turquoise cabs all channel-set, exhibiting slight, visually pleasing color variations. The bracelet is 7 1/8" long (wearable) by 1 9/16" wide and weighs 65.9 grams...

A very interesting yet no less monumental bracelet by Enrique Ledesma in which the maestro combines modernist silver work with curved stone tubes left unpolished- a rather unusual choice for him. I am intrigued by the combination and think that the stones are actually malachite with veins of pyrite in them. Vividly colored, the bracelet has a stunning presence because of its magnificently architectural links and it feels divinely around the wrist...

I was stunned when I first saw this early Mexico City brooch bearing the signature of Barrera - just couldn't get over the masterful repoussage and the fantastic oxidation that has rendered the design even more pronounced in its surface layering.Definitely reminiscent of Matilde Poulat's early work and a fantastic example of Mexico City silversmithing. The brooch is 2 5/8" tall by 2 5/8" wide (at its widest) and weighs 24.4 grams...

Stunning Matl-Salas sterling silver Palomas combination pin/pendant with meticulously worked repoussage and coral, amethyst and turquoise jewels. One of the most impressive pieces I have seen, its quality makes me think that it's an early 1980s example and its size just has me dazzled. I have paired it with an earlier, handwrought Mexican chain with elaborate links and appropriate length for such a stupendous pendant - the result is, to my eyes at least - beyond words.....

Miniature versions of the clamper bracelets in the corresponding designs by-pass or wrap rings are veritable miracles of craftsmanship and attention to detail as well as testimonials to their maker's patience and ability to concentrate...

Taller Taxco remains one of the mysteries that haunt our knowledge about maestros and workshops in Taxco's golden age. All their pieces that I have had have been high quality emulations of Salvador Teran's designs and the fact that their numbering system and a specific symbol they use in their hallmarks resembles Teran's own marks has created the idea that the two are somehow associated. Yet as Bille Hougart points out in the latest edition of his "Little Book of Mexican Silver" to date we have ...

Beautiful, heavy vintage Deco necklace in the style of Aguilar's "half tubular link" design, I am not sure how to present this to you and what attribution to make. It is not signed at all but the construction, weight and quality make me believe that it could be a Hector original. Yet would anybody in their right mind remove the hallmarks link? In any case, here it is, measuring a wearable 15" long (total length is actually 16 1/4") by 7/8" wide and weighing a generous 91.9 grams. Unsigned as me...

Bold, confident repoussage and fantastic oxidation that has been enhanced with the patina of years past, this is a big Margot de Taxco figural brooch in a design that doesn't surface very often. This is the truer to nature version of Margot's swans and the detail in the bird's plumage is beyond description - I have taken some detail photos to illustrate the quality of craftsmanship. Interestingly enough, the brooch's seam at the upper part of the ornate tail is "open" by design and it has been s...

Abraham Tobias is known for his stupendous repousse jewelry wrought in the Mexico City style associated with Matilde Poulat. His cuff bracelets are avidly collected for their bold and flawless repoussage and their, at times, stunning proportions. In the example at hand, a so-called “Aztec Rose” takes up almost the entire face of the bracelet and draws the eye immediately to its darkened recesses. A museum quality early Deco Mexican cuff that measures 7″ in inner circumference (includin...