Perfectly carved obsidian teardrops with shimmering golden depths and high purity silver combine in this modernist Antonio Pineda set of dangle earrings. There is an innate elegance in the way the silver embraces the volcanic glass, like slender flames of a hot fire emanating from black coals. In the darkness, you only see the silver; in the light it is only the obsidian that catches the eye. Antonio at one of his best moments, I believe...

Sigi Pineda rings don't come up very often and I am very happy to present here an example out of his "boomerang" line. Fashioned in the so-called by pass style, this is a slick, mod piece, its two wings adorned with bezel set turquoise cabs. Fantastic patina and excellent vintage condition make this an absolute must-have for collectors of Mexican jewelry and lovers of mod design alike...

In the style closely associated with Enrique Ledesma yet signed by one of his contemporary Taxco maestros this stunning sterling silver necklace and earrings set epitomizes the slick modernism of Mexico’s mid-century. Designs in this genre capitalize on the stark contrast between highly polished, reflective silver and dark, heavily oxidized surfaces and the visual drama that it creates...

The smaller version of this particular design, this set of vintage Margot de Taxco earrings reminds me of elaborate woven baskets. The repoussage here is very sculptural and the beading in combination with the wonderful patina the set has acquired over the years accentuates its three-dimensional appeal. Eye-catching without being visually overwhelming, it is easy to wear and will hold its own whatever the occasion you chose it for...

Wonderful old Mexican silver bracelet in bold design with large oval green stones, stamped "Silver Made In Mexico", the bottom part of Mexico not visible. It measures 7" long and 1 3/8" wide. Very substantial, the silver is heavy and the stones are large and raised high above the bezels. The clasp is a simple folding snap clasp that holds firmly. The design is very similar to the early works of both Spratling and Aguilar, and could have been crated by them or by a worker in their studios...

There is not one form of jewelry in which the Los Castillo did not excel yet I think their big, bold repousse brooches are simply above and beyond! The example I am presenting here, most probably an early creation if design numbers are indeed good indicators of when during the workshop's life a specific idea was transformed into jewelry, reflects the Egyptian Revival of the Deco period...

Light and airy this vintage Hector Aguilar foliate brooch looks almost like an anatomical leaf study in fine, .940 silver. I think it is a fern leaf that is presented in its absolutely bare essentials yet the stem's playful curve and the graduated lessening of the pin's width as it proceeds from base to leaf tip impart a pleasantly deceiving illusion of sculpturality. Easy to wear, soothing on the eye, perfect for the time when trees put on their fall colors...

A brooch that unabashedly lures the eye and invites the touch this sterling silver and golden sheen obsidian treasure bears the signature of Erika Hult de Corral, one of the few female designers of Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance that we know of and definitely the only modernist. de Corral's work can be truly inspired - and she has a way with silver and stones that makes the materials simply flow into each other effortlessly, as if they were always meant to be together...

It's almost the middle of August but this vintage Antonio Pineda brooch makes me think of leaves twirling in the wind filling the world with the fiery golds and reds of Fall. It is characteristic of the design genius inherent in some maestros that they can take a simple, familiar form and put such a twist to it (in our case literally), the form turns into a little work of art. This is a very sculptural brooch, the sense of motion it holds within it strong, its patina to die for...

An accomplished member of the Mexico City school of repoussage, maestro M. Velazquez was a contemporary of Matilde Poulat's and many of his designs are actually based on Matl's originals. The level of craftsmanship and the quality of his work have contributed to his becoming increasingly sought after by collectors, especially with the high prices Poulat's creations realize. I love all his pieces but I have a particular affinity for his brooches and this one, I have never seen in the past...

One of the demanding techniques the Los Castillo workshop is credited with, onix negro (black onyx) was introduced by them in the world of Taxco silver-smithing in the early 1950s and it has resulted in some amazing pieces of jewelry. Set within a carefully carved piece of flat-cut black onyx, the silver elements of a design are then ground down to match the stone surface in a seamless, perfect plane...

Vintage 1940s Hector Aguilar silver repousse floral brooch in what I believe to be a squash blossom design which might even have been created by Valentin Vidaurreta. There are several variations of the motif that can be found in various sizes and weights - during the short period in the 1940s when Coro had their jewelry made in Aguilar's workshop due to the war restrictions, brooches like this albeit lighter were also made for the American market and stamped with Coro's Mexican hallmark...

What with their bows and their beading Margot de Taxco's "cornflower" earrings are the epitome of retro elegance. The set presented here is, I believe, the smaller version of the design but I love it for its easy-to-enjoy size and the wonderful patina that enhances the sculptural appeal of the floral dangles. A classic in Margot's repertoire, the pair is always "en vogue" and adds that distinct quality to one's appearance that makes heads turn...

Very nice size, measuring 2 5/8 wide and 2 1/8" high, good weight. Stamped 980 on back, with Made in Mexico, no maker's mark. Likely Taxco work, and the 980 silver standard was used in earlier works, prior to 1950. The face mask depicts a warrior with headdress, ear spools, and facial adornment, a pre-columbian image often found in Mexican art and jewelry. Has visible tarnish, especially in recessed areas, and shows wear and abrasions to silver surface. Please see all photos for details. ...

Biomorphic sterling silver appliques on a highly oxidized "puffy" background take center-stage in this modernist Mexican set of Salvador Teran earrings. I grew up close to the sea so to my eyes, it's little crabs catching a bit of sun on mossy beach pebbles that are pictured here but your mind's eye might see something entirely different. Precious like all Salvador jewelry, beautifully made, not entirely identical as is the case with hand-wrought pieces of wearable art. Bottom-line? Irresistible...

Dashing early modernist Mexican silver and amethyst earrings with the signature of the Los Ballesteros workshop, this set is a variation on the "clamshell" type of jewelry that was so popular with modernist Taxco maestros in the mid- to later 1940s. Having taken their name from the concave, clamshell-like silver platform within which semi-precious and polished hard-stones are housed, this sub-genre of Mexican beauties is characterized by absolute minimalism that is only tempered by the lusciousn...

It is a rare occurrence to find a Margot de Taxco ring - some designs do crop up from time to time but to come upon her "yin and yang" design no 5170 is quite a strike of luck! Out of her enamel creations, I have to admit that this is one of my favorite not only because of the "balanced" motif but mainly because of the soul-soothing colors it comes in. Primordial white and black with gold and metallic molten caramel glisten contained in their silver cloisons, dotted with graduated sterling circl...

I don’t usually venture into the 1980s with vintage Mexican silver jewelry but Erika Hult de Corral is one of the few instances in which the general rule is broken. A Paris-educated, talented modernist with a distinct brutalist strain in her designs, Ric (as she signs her pieces) worked with Sigi Pineda and Enrique Ledesma before she opened her own workshop. She kept making jewelry into the 1980s, past the demise of most of Taxco’s early talleres, and the dangle earrings at hand are such an ...

An iconic creation for Enrique Ledesma, this design can be found in all jewelry forms and with various stones. There is something very sculptural in the way the stone is cut that bestows an irresistible tactile quality to it and the case of the brooch at hand is no exception. Predominantly green with sage overtones yet not lacking rich blues and more muted browns, the azur-malachite is securely set in its warmly glowing silver frame. Distinctly angular, the stone’s shape is mitigated by the sw...

Probably my favorite among the Taxco modernists, Salvador Teran has that magic touch which allows him to draw a perfectly "readable" picture with the least amount of strokes. His work is inspired and his ability to deal with different materials and always create wearable pieces of art is simply unbelievable. In this set of abstract earrings my eyes see the figures of two birds. They are so abstract, as if made of air and movement, but I look at them and I can almost hear them fluttering above my...

Based on an ancient glyph, or at least inspired by one, this vintage Los Castillo Mexican silver and azur-malachite inlay necklace is out of the workshop's "mozaico Azteca" line of jewelry. Centuries old, the technique became almost obsolete during the Colonial period but was revived by Chato Castillo, one of Taxco's most talented, innovative and original maestros. The coloration of the stone here leans towards the greens and taupes with rich blues present here and there to add that visual surpr...

I love these Mexican Deco "berries-on-a-branch" brooches! They are big and impressive and the berries come in different colors depending on the kind of agate used. I am always on the look-out for the best examples, the ones in which the silver branches are hefty and interestingly entwined and the berries made of good quality stone, rich in striations and color-variation. Admittedly a piece that requires a winter garment - it would be too heavy for a delicate silk blouse - yet one that would also...

There is nothing simplistic or facile about Francisco Rivera’s jewelry! A maestro who loved overlay, paid attention to detail and finishing, created pieces that cry out to be held and touched and enjoyed he is, in my opinion, still to be recognized as the talented, inspired silversmith and designer that he was. The koi fish pin at hand, though of medium size, is a feast for the eyes - layering, oxidation, deeply hand chased details and a vivid sense of motion attract one’s gaze and hold it c...

Nice heavy quality sterling silver belt buckle by Taxco silversmith, in the style of Aguilar, though signed with other initials, vintage item, mid 20th century. Measures 2" x 1 1/2". Well designed, the buckle has two beads and applied geometric and curved silver sections, in pre-hispanic designs. Signed on back with circular stamp, Taxco 925 Mexico, with the initials JS in the center. Sometimes workers for major silver smiths in Taxco and Mexico City make items on their own, using the desig...

Zodiac jewelry is not uncommon in the field of vintage Mexican silver yet it is mostly bracelets (charm or link), pins and combination pin/pendants that one finds. Rings, and especially sculptural ones like the example at hand, are rare and I am thrilled to have discovered it! Applied on a round flat field, the kneeling figure of Aquarius faces the onlooker, water flowing out of the urn under her arm (I know Aquarius is supposed to be male but the more I look at this ring, the more I see a femal...

Swallows hold within their slender, elegant little bodies tender memories of my childhood in Greece - they are considered the most important harbingers of spring and symbolize regeneration, hope and the assurance that sun-filled days will always follow the darkest hours of winter. For the Victorians, they represented faithfulness and the promise of a loved-one's return and as a motif, they were widely used in sentimental jewelry. This stunning Mexican Deco silver repousse version captures the bi...

One of my favorite sub-genres in the world of vintage Mexican silver jewelry includes those early Deco repousse brooches wrought in the usually referred to as the “Mexico City style”, the most famous proponent of which is, undoubtedly, Matilde Poulat. Quite often anonymous, as in our case, these pieces can be fascinatingly weird, at times even bordering on the surreal. Who is this bearded man with the thick facial features, his eyes cast down as if in intense concentration, and what is this ...

Sometimes things just fall into your lap unexpectedly and this is what happened with the two Antonio Pineda brooches I am listing today. First up a fun (albeit ... smelly in real life, if you are not careful) figural brooch glorifying our beloved skunk! At least, I think it's a skunk and I wish I had a more noble name for the creature. Such an unusual, tongue-in-cheek design for Antonio who is seriously modernist and quite heavy at times. Nice overlay, deep oxidation, almost out of a cartoon yet...

One of the pieces that were made around WWII, I believe, this Mexican silver and carved dyed calcite brooch is such a find! Shaped like a US Army officer's visor cap, complete with the appropriate insignia, it recounts part of the relationship the two countries had during those difficult times albeit in its jewelry version. The fact is that during WWII and due to the restrictions on the availability of metals which were dedicated to the war effort, many US jewelry manufacturers and big retailers...

For all the horse-lovers out there this majestic Margot de Taxco Mexican silver brooch is a must-have! There is something about her des. 5160 that makes one see the muscles in that strong neck, smell the warmth of the animal's mane, feel the tension as it waits for the go-ahead so it can run like the wind. Masterful repoussage, great design, deep chasing that makes the horse come alive and the patina you want to see on a well-loved, well-cared for silver brooch of this vintage. Magical at 2" t...

Beautifully executed this Mexican silver and dyed calcite "mask-in-a-feathered-sunburst" brooch is based on a similar Spratling design (if I am not mistaken). Sunburst designs were popular among Mexican silversmiths in the first half of the 20th c. - a giver of life and warmth, the sun is important in all civilizations and its portrayal took on a myriad of symbolic meanings. Here, it is the feathers (or scales) rendered en repoussage that intrigue me - a reference to Quetzalcoatl, the di...

I look at this Sigi Pineda brooch and I see pine trees frosted with snow, dancing to the tunes of cold winter winds in a Nordic forest. I am sure that others out there will see something else - and this is the magic of minimalist, abstract design; the magic of Sigi when he is truly inspired. I will not say much more hoping that my photos will help illustrate your dreamscapes but will add that the brooch is 2" tall by 1 1/8" at its widest and weighs 8.5 grams. It is fully signed with Sigi's signa...

Margot de Taxco's design no 5194, her "roses" parure, is one of her most romantic, "feminine" creations. There is something so tactile about the small silver flowers linking together to make up necklaces, bracelets and brooches that brings a certain kind of "first love" warmth to the heart and puts a smile on the face. Quite often combined with hearts and cupids, the "roses" are the quintessentially "lovers' jewelry" motif. The design's appeal seems to have lasted for a long time since most of t...

Huge, meticulously worked, with such detail and rich presence this Mexican Deco sterling silver bird of paradise is one of my absolutely favorite brooch designs. I have to admit that I really love brooches - I seek them out and try to find the best examples for One Good Eye Silver and it doesn't matter to me if they are "in" or not at the specific point in time. Brooches are classy; they can be delicate and romantic; and they can be bold and beautiful. This bird-of-paradise is open-back repousse...

An iconic design for Sigi Pineda, the "boomerang" can be found with tiger's eye, like here, as well as black onyx, obsidian, amethyst and chrysoprase. Contrasting niello-ed against glistening silver surfaces "boomerang" pieces exude a sense of slick, unimpeded movement and the wire-wrapped cabochons bring more color and added texture. An interesting detail about the pair of earrings at hand is that it has "transitional" findings - a combination of screw backs and clips that many find easier to n...

Set of modernist Mexican earrings bearing the Los Castillo signature, each earring featuring two male profiles, one executed in silver, the second with azur-malachite inlay. Though the Mozaico Azteca technique employed here was among the innovations and revivals the Los Castillo workshop is credited for, I believe the pair at hand was in fact designed by their cousin, Salvador Teran, when he was still working with them. The set's sheer minimalism is only tempered by the saturated color in the st...