Living in the remote valleys along the upper Indus river, the women of Kohistan district in Pakistan may spend several long winter months making a dress ("jumlo") such as this one which is lavishly embroidered in tent stitch (petit point) and satin stitch in silk thread on a black cotton cloth ground. It features a full skirt with multiple inserted triangular panels (over 300) and is embellished with beads, buttons, metal trinkets and amulets...

Metallic thread is used to optimal effect in this Pashtun nomad's purse from southern Afghanistan. The thread is not taken through the magenta silk background but applied onto it in couched threads, laid parallel to each other and caught down by a small stitch in colored cotton...

This is a shepherd's wool coat from upper Chitral or Nuristan, depicting the branched "ram's horn" and tree of life designs reminiscent of the woollen garments and felts of central Asia. The mountainous area of Chitral adjoins the province of Nuristan in Afghanistan, a historical and geographic starting point for continuous trade routes into central Asia. The coat dates to either the mid or late 20th century and is in excellent condition given its age...

A woman's cap from Bamiyan province, circa mid 20th century. Satin stitch in pink, white and yellow silk thread embroidered on green cotton, depicting stylized flowers resembling chrysanthemums. Diameter: 20 cm. Circumference: 52.5 cm. Condition: Excellent.

This textile from Afghanistan measures 24 x 27 cm and is dated to the mid 20th century. The highlights of this textile are the four mirrors ("shisha") which are made of mirror glass and used as an amulet to ward off the evil eye. The embroidery is silk thread on a plum cotton ground, in straight stitch, ladder stitch and Holbein stitch, all combined in an effective way to make the overall composition...

This child's dress front from Gardez in Afghanistan measures 26 x 29.5 cm and is tightly embroidered in cross stitch. The geometric motifs are accentuated by the blue glass beads on each side of the textile, a prophylactic against the evil eye. The front side is embellished with metallic thread and Bukhara stitching, where the thread is taken along in intervals and fastened down by a minute cotton thread. This piece is in excellent condition and its estimated age is mid to late 20th century...

A child's helmet (khohl) from Pakistan which is daily attire for both girls and boys of the villages in Kohistan. It measures 34 cm from the beaded tassel on the peaked crown to the forehead hem, and 102.5 cm from the tassle to the V-shaped bottom hem. The diameter of the cap is 27.5 cm. Satin stitch and petit point (half cross stitch) in silk thread on a black cotton ground, the helmet is embellished all over with white and red glass beads and buttons. Its condition is excellent with no flaws...

This Uzbek textile from northern Afghanistan is called a "bolim posh" meaning a canopy held over the bride and groom at the wedding ceremony. Embroidered in couching stitch ("basma") in mostly silk thread on a fine linen ground, it measures 125 W x 134 cm L. Some minor staining consistent with its age (mid to late 20th century)...

This old textile from Maqur district in Ghazni province, Afghanistan dates from the early to mid 20th century and is embroidered in silk thread on a muslin ground, on an additional muslin background. Abstract volute motifs are dynamically joined in ladder stitch and tightly worked to showcase the two central medallions which are the centerpiece of the composition. This textile measures 55 x 81 cm and is in excellent condition.

A densely embroidered pillow cover from Hazara district in Pakistan, circa 1950. This pillow cover was made for a wedding. Curling horn and star patterns are typical of the embroidery of the Hazara district, resembling both in design and technique the phulkaris of Punjab province. In this district it is typically accomplished from the reverse - the designs are outlined with one running stitch, then the outlines are filled in with another...

A finely embroidered textile from Afghanistan made by Hazara women, measuring 12 inches by 13 inches. Embroidered in silk thread in mostly filling stich and satin stitch on a white cotton linen background. Although the embroidery designs are geometric and simple, it is the constant change of color on each of the embroidered panels that animates this prayer cloth ("mohr posh"). Late 20th century.

Measuring 46 x 47 cm this textile forms the bodice of a Hazarajat nomad's shirt (kamiz). The embroidery is an intricate combination of satin stitch (or straight stitch) and an extremely finely worked ladder stitch worked by hand on an ivory linen background. Mirrors ("shisha") are strategically placed to ward off the evil spirits ("djinn"). Estimated age: early to mid 20th century. Condition is excellent.

This child's cap from the from the high valleys of Indus Kohistan is dated to the mid-late 20th century and embellished with cowry shells, white beads and metal snaps and trinkets. The embroidery is tent stitch worked in cotton thread, forming interlocking diamond motifs on the crown. Condition: overall good, some fraying. Diameter is 7 inches, circumference 15 1/4 inches.

A vintage choli from Pakistan, circa late 20th century. Hand embroidered in red and gold metallic thread on black chiffon to form abstract patterns. The choli is lined inside. Condition is excellent.

A pair of doilies from Afghanistan, with gul-i-peron discs and extensive beadwork, mirrorwork. They are in excellent condition and measure 19 x 19 cm. Intricate ladder stitch and button hole stitching are the embroidery techniques, plus metal thread and Bukhara stitching. These doilies were made for a woman's dowry and would form part of her trousseau. Estimated age mid to late 20th century.

This saye gosha (or segusha) shows the dynamic use of line and vivid color for which Uzbek Lakai embroidery is famous. Saye gosha are V-shaped hangings used to decorate piles of quilts while in storage during the day in the yurt. The Lakai are an Uzbek tribe who currently live around Kunduz in northern Afghanistan. Originally more widespread, they were also once found in what is now Uzbekistan and Tajikistan...

Four eight-pointed stars are the central theme of this gorgeous textile made by Hazara women, dated to the mid 20th century. Hand-embroidered in extremely fine cross stitch in silk thread on a tan cotton linen, it is the workmanship that marvels. The cross stitch on this textile can be more properly appreciated under a loupe. Each of the four eight-pointed stars is echoed by more eight-pointed stars and accented by triangular hooked motifs down the middle of the piece...

This is a nice example of the ubiquitous "doga", embroidered talismans common to all the Turkic peoples of Central Asia...