Catalog: Vintage Arts: Regional Art: Asian (258)

Embroidered in long and short stitch in rayon thread, this prayer cloth is from central Afghanistan where the minority Shi'a Hazara people live, comprising about 19% of the total population of Afghanistan. The textile depicts the domed tomb ("Mashhad Hussein") of Hussein, the grandson of the prophet Muhammad, in Kerbala, Iraq, the holiest shrine of the the Twelve-Imam Shi'ite Muslims. The background is a polyester cloth embroidered in vibrant primary colors, alluding to the mosque and minarets of Kerbala. The image is tersely framed by embroidered rosettes and leaves. This textile is in excellent condition and dates to the late 20th century.

This child's waistcoat is from Indus Kohistan, located in the province of Pakistan formerly known as the North-West Frontier Province (NWFP), recently re-named Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. It is a superb piece, embroidered on black cotton fabric and embellished with coins, multicolored glass seed beads and pearly buttons. The vest measures 32 cm by 37 cm with the neck yoke measuring 11 cm. It is estimated to date to the middle to late 20th century. The embroidery is extremely fine, mainly cross and satin stitch in silk thread, with some back stitch forming diamond and chevron patterns. The dominant color is red, with emerald green, orange, yellow and royal blue. The triangular shape at the bottom of each beaded tassel on the front of the vest are called "doga" and have a long tradition of use as talismans in central Asia and other ancient cultures. The condition of the waistcoat is excellent with no missing beads and no damage whatsoever. Kohistan literally means "Hilly Country" and refers to the sub-6000 meter peaks enclosing this remote canyon as well as those peaks in upper Swat and lower Dir.

The traditional embroidery of Kandahar in southern Afghanistan is called "khamak" and requires great attention to detail as well as being extremely labor intensive. Such embroidery was traditionally limited to men's shawls or to the front of their long, loose shirts. This khamak textile is embroidered in silk thread on a fine cotton linen ground with aqua-colored cotton fringes. It measures 12 x 132.5 cm without the fringes (16.5 x 132.5 cm with the fringes) and is in excellent condition overall. Interlocking geometric motifs are embroidered in mustard, pink and aqua in an exceptionally fine satin stitch, combined with areas of long and short stitch. This textile is estimated to be 40-50 years old. Either side of the textile may be used as the face owing to the continuous supplementary weft technique.

A densely beaded woman's dress panel made by Kuchi nomads from Afghanistan, probably dating to the mid to late 20th century. Woven glass seed beads attached to a cloth background at the top, overlaid by a second layer with twisted acrylic threads and beaded tassles. Several layers of fabric at the top make this piece stiff and sturdy. This panel measures 11¼ x 21 inches. Kuchis (from the Persian word "koch" meaning migration) are Pashtun nomads, primarily from the Ghilzai, Kakarh, Lodi, Ahmadzai as well as some Durrani tribes, but occasionally there may also be some Baluch people among them. There are 3 million Kuchis in Afghanistan, with at least 60% of them remaining fully nomadic, and over 100,000 have been displaced in the past few years due to war, natural disasters and drought. "A nomad's territory is in one sense boundless, but there is an established path linking a tribe's seasonal pastures, known as 'the way". Packing up and moving of the tribe along the path was, and still is, a twice-yearly ritual in which bags and animal trappings decorated with beads, shells, buttons and metal discs, long wrapped cords and tassles, add to the color and ceremony." (see Janet Harvey, Traditional Textiles of Central Asia).

A woman's shirt front from Baluchistan, mid to 20th century, in a combination of blanket stitch, herringbone and satin stitch on green cotton in a diamond repeat pattern. It measures 30.5 x 47 cm. A dress ("pashk") covered with detailed embroidery is everyday attire for Baluch women. The embroidered diamond repeat pattern is known as "paraiz zarto" in the language of the Baluch. Condition: Excellent.

Measuring 38.5 x 86 cm, this cushion cover from Hazara District in Pakistan is in excellent condition. As the Hazara district is situated between Punjab and Swat, the embroidery of this area is stylistically very similar to that of the Swat Valley. However, these pieces are generally more complex in design and construction. On one face of this textile the space is stabilized by two central medallions set within an elaborate network of octagons, diamonds and ram's horns in perfect symmetry. These motifs are very tightly constructed and densely embroidered, with subtle variations in hue and the utilization of negative space to maximum effect. The other face depicts a grid of eight-pointed stars embroidered in subtle gradations of pink and purple. These pillow covers ("thakia") are traditionally made for weddings. Mostly long and short stitch, cross stitch and satin stitch in silk floss thread, on a light pink cotton background. Condition: Excellent. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century.

This is a wedding shift from Indus Kohistan in Pakistan. Kohistan, meaning "land of mountains", has been a crossroads between Central, South and Southwestern Asia, absorbing artistic influences from the ancient Greeks and Scythians. Measuring 190 cm extended from sleeve to sleeve, the bust is 45 cm; arm opening: 34 cm; from shoulder to bottom hem: 104 cm. The embroidery technique is brick stitch and cross stich in a combination of acrylic and silk thread. Condition is excellent. For more information on these textiles please see Colours of the Indus by Nasreen Askari and Rosemary Crill © 1997 Merrell Holberton Publishers, pp. 132-133). Estimated age mid to late 20th century.

This wallet from Afghanistan measures 15.5 x 31.5 cm and is embroidered in silk thread on a pink satin ground. The embroidery technique is an intricately worked ladder stitch, with button hole stitches and corded silk tassels for closure. The purse is from Katawaz, in Ghazni province, with two interior pockets. Condition is excellent, estimated age mid to late 20th century.

Some of the finest embroidery of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa (formerly known as North West Frontier Province, or NWFP) comes from Swat Valley, known for its lush green mountains and turquoise colored rivers. The typical 'ram's horn' pattern seen in many parts of central Asian embroideries and carpets is reflected in this cushion cover from Swat. Satin stitch and darning stitch in floss-silk thread outlined in orange thread combine effectively to cover large surface areas of the textile and showcase the central medallion. The color of the thread is difficult to convey on film as it is actually a deep turquoise, alternating with yellow and white thread. The reverse is black cotton with an opening slit for the pillow form. It measures 40 x 41 cm and is in excellent condition. Estimated age: late 20th century.

This dress yoke from Bamiyan province measures 34.5 x 41 cm and is embroidered in fine cross stitch in pink, yellow, green and purple silk thread. Traditional Afghan dresses have a yoke under the neckline from which long panels of fabric flow. Sleeves are typically wide, and they wear matching cuffed pants underneath. The garments are decorated with embroidery at the yoke, the bottom of the sleeves, and the cuff of the pants. When a garment wears out they remove the embroidered areas and re-use them in a new piece so that their progeny may share some of the original outfit. Condition: Excellent. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century.

Living in the mountainous terrain of central Afghanistan where the cold and snow isolate entire villages for months, the minority Hazara women have developed a terse embroidery style of cross stitch and interlocking eight-pointed star motifs to produce their dowries. This textile from central Afghanistan is embroidered in silk thread on a plain weave cotton linen background. The top right corner is left unfinished, part of this textile's understated appeal. It measures 14 inches by 14 1/2 inches. It is being sold in a glass frame (black metal frame). Condition is perfect. Estimated age: late 20th century.

A pair of doilies from Afghanistan, with gul-i-peron discs and extensive beadwork, mirrorwork. They are in excellent condition and measure 19 x 19 cm. Intricate ladder stitch and button hole stitching are the embroidery techniques, plus metal thread and Bukhara stitching. These doilies were made for a woman's dowry and would form part of her trousseau. Estimated age mid to late 20th century.

This Tibetan wool sash measures 12.7 cm x 340.4 cm in length including the silky fringes. The tigma (cross) motif is an ancient good luck charm among Tibetans and here it is depicted in a discontinuous weft pattern design. These sashes are traditionally worn to secure the traditional Tibetan attire called a chuba. The high lustre of the wool is attributed to the high lanolin content of the goat wool in the high altitude regions of the Tibetan plateau. The last photo shows a typical loom on which these sashes are woven. Condition: Excellent. Mid to late 20th century.

Abstract floral patterns combine with medallion motifs in shades of dark red and pink in this kameez from the Hazara district, North West Frontier Province (recently re-named Khyber Pakhtunkhwa). Silk floss on cotton (a handwoven coarse cloth called khaddar), the embroidery is in the characteristic phulkari stitch which resembles a satin stitch but only on the front side. Each cuff has an embroidered band in brick stitch. The tunic measures 37 1/2 x 68 inches while each sleeve measures 27 1/2 inches from the hem. Dated to the early or mid 20th century, its condition is very good except for some stains around the gussets and on the back.

A woven wool sash from Tibet, circa mid to late 20th century. Measuring 15.3 x 300 cm including the fringes, it is in overall good condition, but with some fraying. These sashes are used by Tibetans to tie their traditional attire (chuba for women, lokpa for men) and also to secure knives, bundles etc. Enlargement #6 shows the use of these sashes in traditional Tibetan nomadic culture (© 1995 East of Lo Manthang by Peter Matthiessen and Thomas Laird).

This pair of embroidered squares were made by Pashtun nomad tribeswomen of Hazarajat. They dazzle the eye with their vibrant colors and mirrored discs ("gul-i-peron") which enliven the quadrants of each textile. Each square measures 24.5 x 24.5 cm and is embroidered in silk thread on a green silk background, depicting radiating solar motifs in a carefully composed symmetry. A meticulously worked ladder stitch forms the whorl designs central to the composition which is framed by silver metallic thread, with the edges fringed with beadwork. Condition is excellent. Estimated age: late 20th century.

This cushion cover from Hazara district features stylized floral patterns and curvilinear geometric motifs outlined with a top stitch of black thread on mustard-colored cotton. Touches of turquoise and shocking pink combine with rust-colored silk floss thread to create an overall design suggestive of central Asian influence. It measures 41 x 41 cm and is in excellent condition. Late 20th century.

A woman's shift ("kurta") from Swat in vivid pink silk embroidery with green and purple accents on a black cotton background. This kurta has exceptionally fine cross-stitch embroidery at the sleeves, suggesting a link with Indus Kohistan. Indeed, it is not uncommon for embroidered panels for dresses from Indus Kohistan to be found in the markets of Swat (see Nasreen Askari, Colours of the Indus, © 1997). This kurta measures 73 inches across the top by 32 1/2 inches from the top hem to the bottom hem. The underarm gusset measures 3 1/4 x 4 1/2. This beautiful textile dates to the mid 20th century.

This is a bed decoration from northern Afghanistan made by Uzbeks of the Lakai tribe. Traditionally these textiles were placed between layers of bedding quilts at the back of the yurt. This segusha measures 72 x 80 x 115 cm when folded into a triangle, and the embroidery is silk thread on faded red cotton edged with silk fringes, combining satin stitch with long and short stitch. The overall design is dense but not overcrowded, depicting stylized flowers, insects and birds, evoking the image of a garden in bloom. The outline of one unfinished detail can be seen in the upper right hand corner (enlargement #4). Condition: Excellent on the front, but there are some small stains on the reverse side of the textile. Estimated age: mid 20th century.

This Uzbek suzani from northern Afghanistan dates to the mid 20th century or later and measures 76 x 99 cm including the fringes. The textile is hand-embroidered in silk thread in vivid colors on a green rayon ground with copper encrustations throughout, and edged on two sides with crocheted silk fringe. Couching stitch ("basma") is the embroidery technique. The textile is reversible and either face may be used as the front. Condition is overall very good, but with some dye run and one small tear from the metal accents. The combination of abstract floral designs and moon-disc motifs are characteristic of Uzbek suzani.

Measuring 8 x 36.5 cm, this embroidered band from northern Afghanistan was hand-embroidered by Uzbek women in an exceptionally fine cross stitch on a pumpkin linen background. Condition is excellent. Estimated age early to mid 20th century.

Measuring 56 x 88 cm, this horse headcover was hand-embroidered by Uzbeks of the Lakai tribe, well-known for their horsemanship. Each of the embroidered panels feature solar and horned designs, executed in Bukhara couching on red wool flannel, fringed with beaded silk tassels ending in small white beads, a typical feature in Central Asian embroidery. Condition is good but with a few small holes. Estimated age: mid 20th century.

A hand-embroidered Pashtun nomad purse from Katawaz (Ghazni province) with blue glass beads. Blue beads are considered amulets against the evil eye. Pashtun women, whether settled or nomadic, love rich and beautiful embroideries that shine. Women embroider - for themselves, on their festive costumes and headgear - and for their children and their husbands. Women embroider, not only from pleasure and duty, but equally as a statement of their value and of their love for their husband and children. Traditionally, girls in Afghanistan were taught to embroider from about the age of seven, first following their mother and then other local women. This piece measures 6 x 11¼ inches (15.2 x 28.6 cm) when fully opened and features gold couching and whorl-like designs in herringbone stitch on a red silk background. It is estimated to be about 40 years old.

In the high valleys of Indus Kohistan the children still wear hats such as this one, made of tent stitch, fine cross stitch and metallic amulets to ward off the evil eye. Silk thread on cotton ground, accented with beading, sea shells, pompoms, and metal trinkets. Estimated age mid 20th century. Condition of this hat is excellent. No holes, no fraying, no stains. Diameter is 7 inches, circumference 18 inches.

Measuring 15 x 26 cm this charming purse is completely hand-embroidered in silk thread on a polyester ground. The embroidery is a very finely worked ladder stitch combined with Romanian couching ("pokhtaduzi") so densely worked as to almost completely obscure the background fabric. The metal thread around the mirrors is fastened down at regular intervals with small holding stitches, producing a characteristic relief to the pattern. Blue seed beads on all the edges are intended to ward off the jinn from the wearer. Three inside pockets. The wallet is estimated age mid 20th century and is in excellent condition. Silk tassels on a braided silk cord forms the closure.

A child's cap from Indus Kohistan which is part of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa (formerly known as NWFP). Some of the finest embroidery of this region comes from the area between Patan and Komila, where small settlements beside tributaries of the Indus produce embroidered costume and small bags worked in minute cross stitch and tent stitch. This cap with its beaded tassle is very typical of the region in its use of pompoms, buttons, white beading, and incredibly fine petit point stitch in silk thread. Condition: overall very good, albeit with some fraying which is to be expected from a cap of this age. Diameter 15.2 cm, circumference 43 cm. Some portion of the cap lining from inside is a printed cotton fabric.

This Uzbek textile from northern Afghanistan is called a "bolim posh" meaning a canopy held over the bride and groom at the wedding ceremony. Embroidered in couching stitch ("basma") in mostly silk thread on a fine linen ground, it measures 125 W x 134 cm L. Some minor staining consistent with its age (mid to late 20th century). The stylized sun discs and flowers suggest the influence of ancient Scythian forms (for similar examples see Janet Harvey's book Traditional Textiles of Central Asia, pp 122-123).

Embroidered in silk thread on a fine cotton linen ground, this little purse is from Badakhshan province in northeastern Afghanistan and measures 11.3 x 13.5 cm. Badakhshan province is mostly inhabited by Tajiks and is the home of the world's most important lapis mines. The embroidery technique is a combination of brick stitch and long and short stitch, depicting chevrons and floral motifs. Three silk pompoms adorn each corner of the purse which is in excellent condition overall, just a few tiny stains to be expected from a textile of this age (mid 20th century).

In central Afghanistan where villages are commonly cut off from the rest of the world during the winter months, the time spent by Hazara women in embroidering textiles such as this one is considerable. Depicting eight-pointed stars and triangles densely embroidered in silk thread on a fine cotton linen cloth, this napkin measures 38 x 40.5 cm and is in excellent condition. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century.

Varied repeating geometric patterns exquisitely embroidered in satin stitch in silk thread characterize this dress panel from Kandahar province, Afghanistan. Executed in a counted-thread technique in relief on a cotton linen background, the monochrome colors of the thread reflect the light in such a way as to confer a high degree of elegance to this textile which measures 17 x 148 cm and is fully reversible on each side. Condition is perfect, no stains, no holes, no odors. Estimated age: mid 20th century.

This Pashtun nomad's pistol holster from Katawaz is embroidered in ladder stitching on a red silk background, depicting whorls and arabesque motifs in vibrant yellow, green, blue, purple and white. The holster is ornamented with mirrors and blue beads along the edges, blue beads being a traditional feature of Pashtun embroidery for protection against the blue evil eye. Silk and metallic thread with a printed cotton lining. Mid to late 20th century. Condition is overall very good with one small stain on the flap.

This lovely cushion cover from Swat Valley is densely embroidered in mustard and salmon floss-silk thread in darning stitch on a black cotton ground. The motifs are typical of the embroidery of Swat and Hazara regions of Pakistan, geometric and curvilinear motifs outlined in yellow running stitch. The textile is in excellent condition and features a slit on the back for a pillow insert. It measures 38 x 38 cm. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century.

This child's cap from Indus Kohistan, Pakistan is dated to the mid 20th century and measures 7 cm in diameter, 42 cm in circumference. Kohistan in Persian means "land of mountains" and has two distinct meanings in Pakistan. In Persian "koh" means "peak" and "istaan" means "land of". Kohistan is one of the most isolated and the most deprived districts, not only in Hazara Division but in the entire Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province of Pakistan. This child's cap shows the typical decorative amulets of Indus Kohistan embroidery, with coiled zippers, buttons, plastic poppers and beads. The embroidery work is exceptionally fine cross stitch (petit point) and satin stitch in silk thread and acrylic thread on black cotton. Condition of the cap is excellent.

Strong geometric shapes densely embroidered in satin stich in vibrant colors animate this Hazara textile from central Afghanistan which is estimated to date to the mid 20th century. Silk thread embroidered on a fine cotton linen ground, the patterns are artfully joined into a robust and dynamic unity. Embroidery is an important winter activity for Hazara women who inhabit mountainous central Afghanistan, including Bamiyan, Oruzgan and Ghazni provinces. The Hazara are Shi'ite Muslims who comprise about 19% of the total population of Afghanistan. This textile is in perfect condition and measures 35 x 38.3 cm. The continuous supplementary-weft technique makes this textile reversible and either face may be used as the front.

A man's wrist band from Afghanistan, hand-embroidered by Lakai Uzbek women, probably from Kunduz province. Circa 1970. Solid embroidery in cross stitch with hooked motifs. These motifs, their colors and repetition, are common in the embroideries of Tajikistan and Sukhanderia in southern Uzbekistan. The embroidery features buttons and beaded tassles on both ends. The tassles are bound together by metallic thread. The Lakai Uzbek cross stitch is rather larger than in the Hazara embroideries. In this piece a hooked motif is embroidered in different colors and repeated in five separate panels to highlight the contrast in color. It is in excellent condition and measures 2¾ x 34 inches when measured from end to end with the braided string and tassles; without the tassles and string it measures 18½ inches in length.

This vintage Hazara waistcoat from Jaghori in central Afghanistan is embroidered in extremely fine cross stitch in silk thread, depicting interlocking eight star motifs, a traditional motif in Hazara embroidery. The collar, shoulder bands and side panels are meticulously worked in Bukhara stitching in metallic thread, where the couched threads are laid in parallel to each other and are fastened by small stitches. The curvilinear forms form a surface pattern of a neat grid of lines which in themselves create geometric motifs in relief. The yoke measures 28.5 cm from the shoulder hem to the bottom hem, 26.5 cm across the front panel, and 44 cm across with the triangular side panels included. From the collar to the bottom hem the textile measures 28.5 cm. Condition is excellent. Estimated age mid to late 20th century.

A pair of puttees from northern Afghanistan, hand-embroidered by Uzbek women. Each puttee measures 8.4 cm x 48 cm (3 1/4 x 19 inches)and is hand-embroidered in silk thread on a red cotton ground. The embroidery technique is long and short stitch, typical of Uzbek embroidery. Condition: excellent, no stains, no flaws of any kind. The puttee with the braided thread measures 48 cm x 47 cm.

The embroidery of Swat Valley is renowned for its dramatic colors stitched against a black background. This cushion cover from Mingora in Swat is in satin stitch in a deep purple with pink highlights. The embroidery is silk floss thread outlined with yellow outline stitching on a black cotton background. There is one small tear on one corner of the textile. It measures 41 x 41 cm and is dated to the mid or late 20th century.

This embroidered shield-shaped panel ("Uut kap Ilgitsh") made of thick red velvet would traditionally be one of a pair, to protect the ends of yurt poles which are tied into bunches on a pack animal's back while in transit to a new location. These bags have both protective and decorative functions. The repeating embroidered ram's horn motif in metallic couching evokes the animal art of the Central Asian steppes. This motif is an ancient one, found on many Central Asian textiles including felts from the Pazyryk burials of the Iron Age Scythian horsemen. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century. Embroidered, appliqued on red cotton velvet, tasseled. Measures 7.62 cm x 38.1 cm including tassels. Probably Kirghiz or Kazakh.

This beautiful textile was made by Pashtun nomadic tribeswomen of Hazarajat. It measures 52 x 65 cm without the fringes (57 x 71 cm including the fringes). Shisha (mirrors) illuminate the textile and are fastened by buttonhole stitches, surrounded by volute designs worked in a very fine ladder stitch in silk thread on a dark purple silk background. The design composition is framed throughout with woven metal-thread braid with blue and white beads edging the textile. Condition: Excellent. Circa: mid 20th century.

A vintage Sindhi rilhi here re-designed into a modern cushion cover. Measures 39 x 64 cm and is in excellent condition. White cotton cording along the edges, with button hole stitching as the main attraction. Mirrors ("shisha") are used extensively in the embroideries of South Asia to attract the sunlight and also to repel the evil spirits ("jinn"). Estimated age mid to late 20th century. Cotton thread on a cotton ground. The textile is in excellent condition given its age, just some slight fraying.

The kilims from around Almar, a village near Maimana, are tightly woven and feature large central medallions with hooked motifs. This hand knotted kilim measures 96.5 x 124.5 cm and is in excellent condition. It dates to the late 20th century and is made of sheep's wool. The palette is subdued as is typical of the kilims from this area of Afghanistan. This kilim was made of vegetable dyes.

Measuring 5 x 17 inches (12.7 cm x 43.18 cm), this pair of embroidered bands from Afghanistan are dated to the late 20th century and are in good condition with one minor stain on one edge. Cobalt blue and vivid pink are the main colors executed in polyester thread in satin stitch.

This is an old tobacco pouch from Indus Kohistan, a remote area of northern Pakistan located along the Indus river. Cotton embroidered with silk thread, depicting interlocking rhomboids on one face, repeating chevrons on the other, and embellished with beadwork on the edges. The embroidery technique is exceptionally fine brick stitch, closely paralleled in Hazara embroidery. The purse measures 18 x 18.5 cm and is in overall good condition, just some normal wear due to its age (early to mid 20th century). For a photographic reference please see p. 125 of Naskari & Crill, Colours of the Indus copyright 1997.

This charming little girl's cap from Indus Kohistan measures 21 cm in diameter and 44 cm in circumference. It is densely embroidered in silk thread on black cotton, a combination of extremely fine cross stitch (petit point) and satin stitch forming geometric patterns. As well, the cap is embellished with decorative trinkets including buttons, embossed silver discs, glass beads and tiny brass bells and pendants which are considered to have amuletic power. The vibrant pinks and magenta colors are characteristic of the embroidery of Swat Valley and Indus Kohistan. The cap dates to the late 20th century and has some slight fraying in one small area.

This is a woman's dress front from northern Afghanistan, circa mid 20th century. Embroidered in fine cross stitch on plainweave olive cotton, the field design device of interlocking crucifixes within diamonds is frequently seen on Shahsavan rugs and textiles. The top edge is embellished with Bukhara couching, which are metallic threads covering the entire surface area and fastened at regular intervals by small stitches to form a relief pattern. The back of the yoke is lined in mustard-colored cotton. Traditional Afghan dresses have a yoke under the neckline from which long panels of fabric flow. Sleeves are typically wide, and they wear matching cuffed pants (shalwar) underneath. The garments are decorated with embroidery at the yoke, the bottom of the sleeves, and the cuff of the pants. When a garment wears out, they remove the embroidered areas and re-use them in a new piece so that their progeny may share some of the original outfit. This panel measures 13x13 inches (33x33 cm).

A small beaded purse made for storing kohl. Silk thread embroidered on cotton, worked in extremely fine satin stitch and filling stitch. Indus Kohistan is located in the province of Pakistan formerly known as the North-West Frontier Province (NWFP), recently re-named Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. In Persian, Kohistan means Land of Mountains. In Persian "koh" means "peak" and "istaan" means "land of". This textile measures 8.5x10 cm when closed, when opened, 10x16 cm. Condition: Excellent. Estimated age: mid 20th century.

A Pashtun Mangal child's shirt front, circa early or mid 20th century. Silk thread on cotton in a dense satin stitch is worked in horizontal rows, forming geometric patterns of lozenges and chevrons in mostly peach and black thread which cover the entire embroidered surface. The lozenges are accentuated by diagonal lines in brown thread which are worked in Holbein stitch and back stitch, contrasting with the overall magenta color of the dress front. The bottom edge is accented with metallic couching and cording. The upper portions of the dress front are embellished with amuletic designs in gold and silk thread on blue satin. The Mangal tribe inhabit both sides of the Pakistan/Afghan border which includes Waziristan in Pakistan, southeastern Paktia and adjacent Khost provinces of Afghanistan. Measures 31 x 53.5 cm. Condition: Excellent.

This is a child's cap made by Uzbeks living in northern Afghanistan, probably in Sar-i-pul province. It is in excellent condition and dates to the mid 20th century. Diameter is 7" (17.8 cm) and the circumference is 20 1/4" (51.4 cm). Silk thread and metallic braid on cotton.

This is an old pair of sleeve cuffs from Maqur district in Ghazni province, Afghanistan, embroidered on a thin muslin ground. Red, orange, green and bergundy silk threads are embroidered in a very finely worked ladder stitch, forming interlocking volute designs. Small glass mirrors are artfully incorporated into the embroidery. Mirrorwork embroidery is quite popular in parts of India, Pakistan and Afghanistan. Known as "shisha" in the Indian subcontinent where it is thought to have originated, this type of embroidery is also sometimes done with small pieces of mica. These sleeve cuffs are estimated to date from the early to mid 20th century and are in excellent condition. Muslin on a linen ground.

A densely beaded Uzbek purse, probably from Mazar-i-Sharif or Kunduz, northern Afghanistan. The designs are typical of Uzbek embroidery in which variations on geometric shapes are emphasized for talismanic effect. The purse is edged with gold trim and blue beads as a prophylactic against the evil eye. The purse is lined with green and pink silk, and a red cotton fabric. There are three pockets inside. Condition: Excellent. Measures 15x25 cm when opened, 12x15 cm when closed. Estimated age: early to mid 20th century.

A pair of decorative table cloths made by Pashtun women, with mirrored, beaded discs ("gul-i-peron") on each corner which serve as protective amulets. The blue bead edging is typical of Pashtun textiles, and is used extensively on purses and clothing as a prophylactic against the evil eye. Silk thread in vibrant colors has been applied in mostly herringbone stitch on a pink cotton background with cording. Each panel measures 26.5 x 26.5 cm. Condition of the pair is excellent. Circa mid to late 20th century.

Four eight-pointed stars are the central theme of this gorgeous textile made by Hazara women, dated to the mid 20th century. Hand-embroidered in extremely fine cross stitch in silk thread on a tan cotton linen, it is the workmanship that marvels. The cross stitch on this textile can be more properly appreciated under a loupe. Each of the four eight-pointed stars is echoed by more eight-pointed stars and accented by triangular hooked motifs down the middle of the piece. The Hazara are the third largest ethnic group in Afghanistan and are Shi'a Muslims. Inhabiting mostly the central region of Afghanistan, embroidery is an important ritual for Hazara women who are isolated by cold and snow for as long as five months per year. This textile measures 22.5 x 23 cm and is in excellent condition.

This attractive hand-embroidered purse from Bamiyan province measures 10.5 x 21 cm when opened, 8 x 10.5 cm when closed. It is embroidered in brick stitch in silk thread of various colors. The motifs are meticulously worked diamond motifs surrounding hooked diamonds, quite typical of traditional Hazara embroidery. The Hazara are the third largest ethnic group in Afghanistan. Age: circa early to mid 20th century. Condition: Very good, two small stains under the button closure (see photos). Three pockets on the inside lined with floral print fabric.

This child's dress front from Paktya province, Afghanistan measures 24 x 24.5 cm and is embroidered in fine cross stitch in silk thread, depicting eight-pointed stars and amuletic motifs. Condition is excellent. Mid 20th century.

This is a tobacco pouch from Indus Kohistan in Pakistan, probably from Kolai or Palas Valley. Circa mid 20th century. It is embroidered in an extremely fine, solidly worked brick stitch in various colored silk threads on a black cotton background. The outer edges of the bag are embellished with beaded tassles. One side of the purse features zigzag motifs, the other, interlocking diamond motifs. The purse also features a little string that tightens the purse at the top and is used to hang the pouch from the huqqa (water-pipe). The pouch measures 10.8 x 12.1 cm; including the beadwork, it measures 14 x 20.3 cm. Condition is perfect.

A Kuchi dress from Afghanistan from the second half of 20th century. The dress bodice has a front slit with button closure, and dense silk embroidery adorns the bodice, sleeve ends, and bottom hem. The embroidery is mostly satin stitch, with ladder stitch and herringbone stitch on black cotton. The embroidered sleeve bands and bottom embroidered band are 2 inches in width. The printed fabric is cotton, with small turquoise, yellow and red motifs on a black background. Condition of the dress is overall excellent, except for small sections where the embroidery has worn thin, mostly around the neckline, sleeve bands, and bottom hem band. Bodice: 11 3/4 x 15 1/2". Bust: 20" (armpit to armpit). Waist: 17". Hips: 32". Sleeve length (armpit to sleeve hem): 23". Shoulder to sleeve hem: 28 1/4". Shoulders: 4 1/4". Bodice front slit: 4". Sleeve opening: 19". Total length of dress: 53". Bottom hem of dress: 98".

This hand-embroidered Uzbek textile from northern Afghanistan measuring 27 x 28 cm is in great condition. Cross stitch in silk thread on a cotton background. Circa mid to late 20th century.

Embroidered purses ("bushkiri") are used by the Baluch to store and carry valuables and bridal dowry gifts. This little purse is embroidered in extremely fine satin stitch, brick stitch, and ladder stitch in silk thread, forming interlocking lozenge and chevron designs. Condition: some wear throughout. It measures 10 x 18 cm when opened, 9.5 x 10 cm when closed.

Uzbek hats such as this one are commonly worn in the northern areas of Afghanistan, particularly in and around Balkh and Mazar-i-Sharif. This child's hat is a quilted cotton with hand-embroidered silk thread in soft pink, rust, turquoise, salmon and teal. Areas of wear consistent with its age (mid-late 20th century). Circumference: 20 inches; diameter: 7 inches. Height: 2 1/4 inches.