Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Period (171)

A fine modernist 18K yellow gold ring set with an intricately carved aquamarine in the "forma livre" (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than being faceted, a technique he invented in 1948. The color of this aquamarine is quite nice—almost a Prussian blue. The gold mounting is decorated with the fine florentined engraving often seen on Marx pieces. Some of Marx's rings are quite bulky, but the narrowness of this ring truly flatters the hand. The ring is an iconic piece and would be immediately recognizable by any Burle Marx collector. The interior of the shank is signed “Burle Marx” and is stamped “750” and “Ind. Bras”.

Marx worked in his native Brazil, but his only boutique was located at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. He was also a favored jeweler to Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. On of his most important commissions was a gem-encrusted cross made for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 5-3/4”. Dimensions: crown, 1-1/16”; shank tapers to 5/32” at the back. Weight: 10.8 grams.

A very fine and heavy Venetian Etruscan 18K yellow gold fob charm in a modified teardrop form. The bottom of the charm is set with a large turquoise oval cabochon (12x9.5mm) surmounted by rows of square aquamarines, smaller turquoise round cabochons and round brilliant cut garnets. The gold surfaces are heavily decorated with ornate wirework. This is one of the highest-quality Venetian Etruscan charms we've seen. The jump ring is marked for 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/8" x 7/8" x 1-5/8" (excluding jump ring). Weight: 17.1 grams.

A very good 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan charm in the shape of a crown set with amethysts and pearls. The gold surfaces are decorated with ornate bead and twisted wire ornaments. The bottom of the charm has a large oval brilliant amethyst weighing approximately 6.77 carats, while the sides are set with four oval amethysts of 3.58 carats each. The lower sides are also collet-set with a band of smaller round amethysts. The amethysts are nicely cut with good brilliance and even, medium violet color. The top of the crown features four cultured pearls. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/8” x 1” x 1-3/8” high (excluding bail). Weight: 19.4 grams. Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 23.49 cts.

A very pretty 14K yellow gold ring bezel-set with an oval gold quartz stone flanked by shoulders set with fused natural 24K gold nuggets. The quartz has good color and is generously streaked with gold in well-balanced pattern. Gold quartz jewelry originally became fashionable during the California gold rush and then again when gold was discovered in Alaska just before the turn of the 20th century. The shank is marked “14K” and has an illegible maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-1/2. Dimensions: crown, 1/2” x 3/8”. Weight: 4.4 grams.

A very nice 18K yellow gold ring in the Sputnik style by H Stern. The sphere is bezel-set with round citrines, amethyst, green tourmalines and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the jeweler’s native Brazil. It later came to be known as “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each ring has a unique appearance stemming from the specific combination of gemstones used. This example has a large number of citrines in a fine, golden honey color. Combined with the green shades of tourmaline, the overall appearance is almost autumnal. The shank is signed by Stern and is marked for 18K gold. This example is on the smaller side and is ideal for wear as a pinky ring or on a smaller hand.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 5-3/4. Dimensions: dome, 5/8” diameter. Weight: 2.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.10 carats.

An interesting vintage 14K yellow gold ring featuring a heart-shaped amethyst in an ornate prong setting with a clustered accent of cultured pearls and another small amethyst at the top. The gallery under the stone echos the heart motif. The amethyst has good, even coloring and is eye-clean. The interior of the shank is engraved "Until Eternity." Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: one prong lacking near the bottom point of the heart; amethyst has a 1 millimeter nick in the girdle (visible under magnification). Finger Size: 8. Dimensions: 1" x 3/4". Weight: 9.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 14.35 cts.

A fine and large pair of 18K yellow gold and multi-stone Sputnik earrings by H Stern. This classic modernist design features goldn domes studded with various colored gemstones including green tourmaline, pink tourmaline, amethyst, aquamarine, citrine and garnet. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending upon the combination and arrangement of the gemstones. The design was created specifically to show off the range of colored gemstones from Stern’s Brazil mines, but it quickly came to be known as “Sputnik” because of its spiky resemblance to the 1960’s Soviet satellite. The clips are marked with an older Stern hallmark. The earrings have their original clips and never had posts. Posts could easily be added. Marked “750” and “18K”.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 15/16” diameter; 1/2” high. Weight: 10.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 9.79 cts (green tourmaline, 2.67cts; citrine, 2.29cts; aquamarine, 2.09cts; pink tourmaline, 1.58cts; aquamarine, .70cts; amethyst, .46cts).

A lovely mid-century 18K yellow gold pendant featuring a deeply-colored elongated piece of coral in an ornately scrolled and beaded setting in the Venetian Etruscan style. The goldwork is entirely handmade. The coral has a faceted surface which is an unusual and difficult enhancement. The coral has the deep coloring found in Mediterranean coral in the waters near Naples. The color is entirely natural, as can be seen from the natural pale spot at the upper corner of the gem. There is another small dot on the right side of the gem, but those at at the bottom are light reflections. The back is marked "750".

Origin: Italy, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-23/32" x 15/16". Weight: 9.4 gr.

A delightful 14K yellow gold money clip in the form of a wishbone. The back of the clip is marked "14K" and has an unidentified maker's mark. It is interesting to note that we've seen this exact money clip with a Cartier hallmark. Leading houses such as Cartier and Tiffany often bought gold objects such as money clips and cufflinks from the better manufacturing jewelers in the New York and Newark area.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 2" x 1-3/16". Weight: 12.1 grams.