Catalog (324)

Less-is-more would be the term I would use to describe this Carmen Beckmann modernist ring if it weren’t for that stone! Molten caramel golds fill the tiger’s eye slab almost in an ombre arrangement so that the ring changes the way it looks as the light that hits it changes. A true chameleon with a strong, “masculine” (am I even allowed the term any more?) setting, all angles and straight lines and a veritable show-stopper by one of the few female contributors to Mexico’s 20th c Silver...

Exquisite Matl Salas Mexican silver, coral and turquoise brooch, I believe this piece to have been made in the years following Matilde Poulat’s death in 1960 based on the quality of the materials used and the high level of craftsmanship. Maestro Salas, Matl’s nephew, worked alongside his aunt for most of Matilde’s career and upon her demise, he (and later his family) took over the workshop and continued making jewelry based on Poulat’s designs. Steeped in Mexico’s folk tradition, the b...

It is always vexing when a hallmark eludes identification and this is (almost) the case with the towering vintage silver ring at hand. Brutalist in design, having a big, semi-translucent chrysoprase cabochon nested in its elevated setting, it bears a partial hallmark which has been suggested to me is probably a maker’s mark from Spain. Home of renowned modernist designers such as Joachim S’Paliu and Puig Doria, Spain sounds like a plausible place of origin for our 1970s ring. Currently a sz ...

I love vintage Portuguese silver bracelets, the repousse hinged bangles more specifically, for which makers like Topazio and Safir are well known. They come in all sizes and designs, they are ideal for bracelet stacks but can be just as easily enjoyed worn alone. The example at hand is floral, with sculptural roses and dahlias in full bloom and in bud running its perimeter, rendered more dramatic by the patina time has bestowed upon them. The bracelet has an 7” inner circumference (clasped) an...

Bigger in size than the most frequently encountered version of the specific design and executing a different step, this vintage Margot de Taxco “ballerina” brooch is Mexico’s contribution to the ballet craze started by Van Cleef et Arpels in the 1940s, with the issuance of their gem-studded “ballerina” jewelry. And even though we don’t have sparkling diamonds and fine gold here, the sense of harmony and serenity our long-, slender-armed dancer seems to exude is equally precious and h...

Confident in his prowess as a warrior and comfortable in his ceremonial attire this Margot de Taxco silver and enamel Aztec figure can be enjoyed both as a brooch as well as a pendant. Though experimentation with the art of enameling started while Margot was still part of the Los Castillo workshop, it was after her divorce with Antonio that she focused on perfecting it in her own, independent taller. And perfect it she did. So much so that today, when one thinks of Mexican enamel jewelry, one un...

An American who arrived in Mexico in the 1940s, opened her own workshop in 1945 and by 1950 employed about twenty five artisans*, Doris is one of the few female designers that we know of in the world of vintage Mexican silver jewelry. My first encounter with her creations wasn’t until a few years into my “career” as a Mexican jewelry dealer and I was immediately captivated by the exquisite design, the impeccable craftsmanship and the quality of the materials used. I have seen kept my eyes...

Known for her bold modernist designs and her love for big, gem- and stone-studded bracelets Carmen Beckmann was equally creative when allowing the Spanish Colonial tradition to influence her work. That “old way” of doing things manifests itself here in the heart-shaped wire-work appliques that support the luscious tiger’s eye cabochon, bringing to mind the more delicate, ornate filigree jewelry every silversmith in the country knew how to make. Everything else, however, from the oversized ...

Breathtakingly beautiful this vintage sterling silver cuff bracelet, Navajo or Southwestern based on the style, is one of those pieces that become heirlooms. Exceptionally well crafted, it is centered by a huge oval lace agate, the color of the stone showing at times powdery blue, at times light grey. Set in a fine saw-tooth bezel, the agate is surrounded by beading and beautiful, richly layered foliate and floral overlay. This is a signed piece, as you can see in the last photo, but I have not ...

A puzzling piece - though it is signed “Birks”, the hallmark does not look like the Canadian company’s commonly encountered marks - this vintage sterling vermeil pin is a small work of art. Slender and elegant, the flower it represents consists of a textured silver stem while its leaves and bloom are made of molded jadeite glass. The glass is supple and glistens thanks to the glaze that was applied over it and the brooch has that romantic, nature-loving air of 1940s jewelry. Its findings a...

Very reminiscent of the work Taxco maestro Mateo created in the 1970s and 1980s, this fine, 950 silver Mexican ring is signed by a different, unidentified maker yet its quality and strong presence make it one of the best examples of the form I have seen lately. The sculptural, substantial setting is complemented by the malachite’s rich, vibrant liquidity while the design’s recesses have been oxidized to enhance the sense of depth and dimension. If you love statement rings, this one is for yo...

Matching the set of earrings that is also available in my store (you can see the demi together in two of the photos) this Mexican silver and azur-malachite ring by maestro Felipe Martinez is an ode to the power of color. Striking greens and dark, rich blues delight the eye while the elegance of the sterling ring shoulders complement in the best possible way the magic of the stone. Currently a sz because of the size it comes with (easily removed) the ring is an sz 7 (can also be easily resized). ...

One of the best lapidaries in Taxco’s jewelry history, Felipe Martinez created amazing jewelry in many styles. The classy sterling silver and azur-malachite earrings at hand follow the “mozaico Azteca” line that was introduced by the Los Castillo workshop. Rich, dark blues, understated safe and a breath-taking splash of electric green come together in the stone inlay held securely in the most minimal “gypsy” setting. Simple does not mean simplistic! The earrings measure 3/4” square a...

Elegant and romantic, this vintage Mexican silver and amethyst brooch bears the signature of Margot de Taxco, one of the few female designers of Mexico’s 20th c Silver Renaissance known to us today. Reflective of the 1940s trend towards jewelry inspired by nature, the brooch looks delicate and tender yet its silver-work is confident, substantial and perfectly finished. I love the soft curve of the floral stem and the way the amethyst bud rests serenely on the pierced leaf. Measuring 3” tall...

Less-is-more is definitely the way Carmen Beckmann chose to go with this vintage Mexican sterling silver and amethyst ring. Set in a disk adorned with overlay and oxidation, it brings to mind a perfectly round stone as it touches the water causing it to ripple. Easy to wear whatever the occasion and a beautiful example of Mexican modernist jewelry. Currently a sz 6 US (easily resizable by your jeweler) the ring has a face that is 7/8” in diameter and it weighs 8.3 grams. It is marked with make...

Stunning in its towering smokey brilliance, this minimalist solitaire by Carmen Beckmann is a modernist Mexican beauty! Based in San Miguel de Allende Beckmann is reported to have started her activity a little later than the big Mexico City and Taxco workshops with most of her pieces dating in the 1950s and 1960s. In the ring at hand, the generously sized faceted gem is raised above a substantial geometric shank, held in place with sterling prongs in a crown-style setting. The stone has the colo...

Reddish brown jasper with light, almost invisible striations attracts the eye in this absolutely minimalist necklace and earrings set bearing the signature of Felipe Martinez and his Piedra y Plata workshop. Martinez was one of Taxco’s best lapidaries and the tight settings, the seamless transitions from sterling to stone in the demi at hand more than attest to the level of his craftsmanship. I love the warm, molten milk chocolate color, the perfectly graduated rectangular links, the hand-made...

One of Salvador Teran’s original designs that is difficult to find especially in the form of earrings, the “crouching man” is also a favorite of mine. Its rarity makes copies by Salvador's contemporary maestros avidly sought after and I am happy to present here an example by “3m”, a Taxco workshop known for emulating the renowned modernist’s work. Sterling silver, amethyst and strategically applied oxidation combine in this modernist interpretation of an ancient Aztec motif. The ear...