Catalog (324)

"Mask" jewelry is not a rarity in the world of vintage Mexican silver yet the portrayals are almost always of ancient, Mesoamerican faces. And even though I am a very big fan of them as long as both the carving and the setting is interesting, I am thrilled to be presenting here a big brooch by A. Tobias housing the portrait of a more "contemporary" man. There is something in this "mask" that screams "Roman" to me and I know the typology might not even justify it but that was my initial reaction ...

Maestro Nestor is one of Taxco’s well-kept little secrets. He is not widely known - only the very dedicated vintage Mexican silver jewelry collectors are aware of his work - and his pieces can vary in style and inspiration. Yet when he is at his best, he can be truly spectacular. I believe the necklace at hand is expresses one of those creative moments. Lovingly hand-cut and deeply chased sterling silver surrounds a big faceted amethyst set in a substantial crown setting while the delicate fol...

One of my favorite "less celebrated" maestros whose jewelry, however, has been experiencing a constant rise in appreciation among collectors, A. Tobias was a contemporary of Matilde Poulat's and I believe he was probably also working in Mexico City. His creations caught my attention several years ago for their characteristic "Mexico City style" repoussage and their beautiful craftsmanship. I have since come to find out that he also designed some amazing "mask" brooches and tried his hand at impr...

Very similar to one of Antonio Pineda's designs, this modernist sterling silver and amethyst bracelet is signed by a listed yet still unidentified early Taxco maestro. Formed by a series of truncated pyramidal links this is a substantial piece that holds its shape almost like a hinged bangle rather than a loosely articulated bracelet. The design's austere geometry is mediated by the rich color and soft curves of the amethyst cabs set in generously wide, raised bezels. Is there anything not to lo...

The bearer of Zeus's thunderbolts Pegasus, the winged stallion of Greek mythology, is also associated with literary and artistic inspiration. One of my favorite images from that period, he is always depicted striding the air with pride and confidence, his strong, wings working hard to raise that formidable body high into the lofty realms of the divine. And though quite far from his birthplace, his form is often depicted in vintage Mexican silver jewelry and over the years, I have had several bea...

An early Los Castillo design and very much in keeping with the 1940s' love for sweeping flourishes this set of earrings, carefully hand-cut, overlaid and oxidized will add just the right amount of festive spirit to your outfit. Bold and confident, the swirls seem to twist upon themselves in excitement and then reach high up for the skies with abandonment. Got to love the Los Castillo and the myriad ways in which they still make our day. The earrings measure 1 3/4" tall by 3/4" wide and weigh 12....

Two different sizes of sterling silver barrel beads adorned with a myriad of hand-made florets in the Etruscan style make up this generously long Mexican lariat necklace from the pre-1948 period. I am very partial to long necklaces and lariats are a small obsession of mine. When I am lucky enough to come upon an Etruscan example as the one presented here, my heart skips a beat. Just like the one I offered last summer, this lariat was also made in Cuernavaca, one of Mexico's main silver-smithing ...

Known for their high quality of holloware primarily, Ingrid's remains even today one of those elusive actors in the story of Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance. Active in the 1930s and 1940s, as Bille Hougart reports, this retailer seems to have been the venue through which well-known maestros like Chato Castillo sold some of their creations. Based on my experience I can say that jewelry bearing their signature is not very often encountered but when it pops up, it is always on big, bold and bea...

Maestro Damaso Gallegos was for years associated in my mind with the Mexican Deco "Christmas jewelry” tradition. His “holly and bells” as well as “bow and bells” designs are a classic way to celebrate the coming of the holiday season yet in the last couple of years I keep stumbling upon totally unexpected pieces by him. The massive, early Taxco combination pin / pendant with the carved stone “mask” at hand is crafted in high purity, .980 silver with overlay, beading and oxidation. ...

Glowing with the patina of time that adds precious depth to recesses of the design, this vintage Los Castillo repousse brooch has a more romantic air about it than most of their work. I love the combination of twists and twirls with the stylized "trumpet" flowers at the top and even though the elements which have been called into service here are definitely floral, I can't stop seeing the eyes of a night owl staring back at me in wise contemplation. Measuring 2 3/4" wide by 1 7/8" tall the brooc...

An early Mexican Deco bracelet, made in Mexico City as indicated by its hallmarks, this massive piece is as well-crafted as it is impressive. Impressive might even be an understatement, actually. Though it is true that vintage Mexican silver jewelry is not of the delicate, demure kind, even after so many years of researching, buying and selling them, I find myself at a loss for words when a piece like this shows up. I love the Spanish Colonial air of the wirework adorning the convex panels with ...

A figural repousse Mexican Deco brooch in sterling silver this "portrait" piece bears the signature of early Mexico City maestro M. Velazquez. Over the years of my love affair with vintage Mexican silver jewelry, I have come to know and appreciate Velazquez's work for its "earthiness", its craftsmanship and the interesting designs he created. The specific "mask" motif I have had a few times in the past in necklace, ring and brooch forms but always anonymous. Often described as an Aztec or Maya "...

My second M Velazquez silver brooch for the day, this Mexican Deco repousse "portrait" I have never had (nor, I believe, seen) before. As opposed to the first figural pin, here the "sitter" is shown in profile, his likeness set in a raised frame against a stippled background. Velazquez's repoussage can be very dramatic and in the piece at hand it is also enhanced by deep chasing and oxidation which brings out the sculpturality of the face and the impressive headdress. The brooch measures 2 1/8"...

For a few years around WWII and possibly up to 1950, Marcel Boucher had a special line of silver jewelry made in Mexico under the name "Parisina". I don't think we know which workshop produced those pieces or whether they were made by a number of different silversmiths. I can, however, say that Parisina jewelry ranges from the very light-weight to the chunkier, more substantial examples and that the same variety is also reflected in their designs. The Cuban link bracelet presented here is defini...

Generously long and imposing in its presence, this early Mexican Deco silver, copper and stone necklace with cascabeles is a great example of the way ancient Mesoamerican artifacts found their way into jewelry created during the country's 20th c. Silver Renaissance. Statuettes, clay "masks", beads of stone and silver, carved pieces of bone were unearthed on a daily basis in Mexico's countryside either by accident as people worked the land or as a result of deliberate "digging" to find them. Many...

Very much in the style associated with Matilde Poulat and often referred to as "Mexico City repousse" this sweet little silver "serpent scales" bracelet is adorned with an amethyst cabochon in its central station. An early example of this "school", it is an honest attempt to emulate the "grand dame" of Mexican silver jewelry albeit in a more demure, smaller scale than most of Matl's work. I like to think of its maker as a young apprentice, impressed by Poulat's genius, patiently working on impro...

Maestro Ocampo's work I have come to appreciate over the years for its good craftsmanship and attention to finishing yet it's been a long time since I offered a piece by him. Quite often his jewelry is inspired by the creations of the bigger talleres and if I am not mistaken, the bracelet at hand is based on a Los Castillo design. The technique employed is also something the Los Castillo tried their hand at. This is not a straight forward "mixed metals" bracelet in which alternating links made o...

Bold, colorful and generously long this vintage Mexican chain necklace is signed by Cecilia and Tono, one of Taxco's most successful duos. The combination of chunky amethyst, slender sterling tubes and lozenge stations embellished with azur-malachite inlay is undoubtedly eye-catching and I love the irregular shape of the stone beads which underscores their hand-cut quality. Wear it alone or combine it with similar pieces, the result will be stunning either way. The necklace measures 31 1/4" lon...