Catalog: Archives (470)

Not very easy to find the specific design of modernist Taxco sterling silver and gemstone earrings by Enrique Ledesma features two generously-sized, color-change sapphires. Mimicking the behavior of alexandrites which change color under different light conditions, the gems are often referred to as “synthetic alexandrites” within the context of vintage Mexican silver jewelry. Yet they are in fact synthetic corundum and at best, they should be identified as “alexandrite simulants”...

An iconic creation for Enrique Ledesma, this design can be found in all jewelry forms and with various stones. There is something very sculptural in the way the stone is cut that bestows an irresistible tactile quality to it and the case of the brooch at hand is no exception. Predominantly green with sage overtones yet not lacking rich blues and more muted browns, the azur-malachite is securely set in its warmly glowing silver frame...

The name of Plateria Cortes, a Taxco retail store is often found on jewelry signed by Enrique Ledesma and this is the case with the modernist sterling silver and green stone necklace at hand. This type of curved trapezoid links embellished with inlay is a signature design for the maestro yet here there are two sections of stone in each station which is a welcome variation that does not come up as often as the typical single segment...

A very interesting yet no less monumental bracelet by Enrique Ledesma in which the maestro combines modernist silver work with curved stone tubes left unpolished- a rather unusual choice for him. I am intrigued by the combination and think that the stones are actually malachite with veins of pyrite in them. Vividly colored, the bracelet has a stunning presence because of its magnificently architectural links and it feels divinely around the wrist...

A gorgeous example of my favorite Ledesma work this is a pair of earrings that illustrates in the best possible way the maestro's magic touch in the seamless combination of silver and stone. Resembling highly stylized calla lilies, the earrings curve and curl to reach their pointy height. The color of the malachite is saturated and its polished surface just perfect. Each earrings is just shy of 1 1/4" tall by 3/4" wide (at its widest) and the set's weight registers at 11.8 grams...

A true maestro when it comes to combining silver with faceted, brilliant gems Enrique Ledesma is the creator of this modernist Mexican hinged bangle bracelet. Ledesma set three color-change sapphires against a glistening sterling frame here but I have also had one or two similar pieces in which the silver had been oxidized. Held in place with prongs, the stones are open-backed allowing the light to play its luminous games and coax different colors out of the stones...

Slick in the most mod way, a vintage sterling silver hinged bracelet by Enrique Ledesma adorned with a prong-set simulated alexandrite (otherwise known as color-changing sapphire or corundum). I am always attracted to Ledesma's sweeping lines and the stylization of the motifs he uses (this specific design is often likened to a fish, for example). The bracelet has an inner circumference of 7" (clasped) and its width varies between 1 5/16" at center front and 7/16" at its narrowest, in the back...

Out of her taller, which opened in 1953, Emma Melendez, niece to renowned maestro Rafael Melendez, sold hand-wrought silver jewelry by her and other known or still unidentified makers, Jose Luis Flores, Francisco Rivera and Victor Jaimez being among them. The cuff bracelet at hand, in an ornate "Old World" design, ties together stylized heart elements cut out of thick silver sheet, deeply chased and oxidized...

One of Spratling's early designs, the "ring with three cascabeles" possesses the primordial charm of ambitious beginnings that are nonetheless steeped in the creativity of ancient cultures. I believe the motif is the same here as that in the tortoise shell and silver "snake" box - the more I look at it, the more I think of writhing serpents with spotted skins. The cascabeles are simply the melodious cherry that tops an already superb piece...

Bearing a combination of hallmarks that dates it around 1939 this William Spratling ring is wrought in high purity .980 silver and has developed the most amazing patina during its long and - I am sure - happy life. According to Goddard, Spratling used to refer to this design as the "crowned pyramid", an appellation that makes more sense if one looks at the matching bracelet from above as it lays on a flat surface...

Early Taxco necklace in emulation of Matilde Poulat’s “Mexico City” repousse, this piece is wrought in 980 silver and its beauty is beyond words. Intense “tribal” flair , deep patina, strong repousse and the splash of green added by the malachite cabs combine to create a necklace fit for pre-Colombian royalty. Measuring approx...

One of the sweetest early floral repousse Taxco necklaces, this piece is wrought in 980 silver and will come to you with its matching earrings. Deeply chased repousse, dramatically curving lines and excellent patina make for an eye-catching demi. The necklace measures 15 1/8" long (wearable) with its central tulip dangles part being 5 5/8" long by 1 5/8" tall. The width at the chain is 1/2" (at its widest). The earrings are accordingly 1/2" wide and 1 1/8" tall...

I am happy to present here a rather difficult to find early Taxco bracelet - I have come upon this specific design in its necklace form a couple of times but have only seen the bracelet once before...

Very much in the early style of Fred Davis, a vintage Deco Taxco necklace wrought in almost pure, 980 silver. This is a classy, substantial piece with its shield form links made out of silver sheet with good thickness and adorned with applied repousse semi-spheres, etching and bezel set amethyst cabochons. A true Mexican beauty, 16 1/4" long (wearable; easily lengthened with the addition of a sterling extension which I can provide upon request) by 1" wide, weighing a good 95.6 grams. Simply mar...

Early, stunning and in excellent vintage condition, an all-silver repousse Matilde Poulat necklace featuring her favorite dove and rose motifs. I can hardly exaggerate the caliber of the craftsmanship and the attention to every minute detail in the execution of the design. This is indeed a true masterpiece dating in the beginnings of Matl's career and we all know how difficult it is to find such an old piece by her any more. Spectacular and quite comfortable to wear as well because of the wide i...

Matching the bracelet in the same design also available at One Good Eye Silver (you can see the two pieces together in the last photo here) an early Mexico City repousse figural brooch in the form of a boldly puffy fish with turquoise eye. Excellent patina, sculptural quality that jumps out at you and perfect for this year's sweet summer nights by the beach... The brooch measures 2" long by 1 7/8" tall and weighs 15.1 grams. It is signed "MEXICO STERLING", dates in the 1920s-early 1930s and is...

I love early Mexico City pieces for their bold repousse further enhanced with deep oxidation and etching and the strong, primeval earthiness of their design. Crafted by mostly anonymous maestros in Mexico's capital in the opening decades of the 20th c., they pre-date their Taxco counterparts and seem to be on the rise among vintage Mexican silver lovers. This bracelet is a great example of the style - and I have recently seen a brooch in this design bearing Matilde Poulat's signature. Note th...

Good early Mexican Deco silver repousse jewelry is becoming harder to find - I don't know if it's because there weren't that many to begin with (quite often repoussage from that period seems a little clumsy, the technique needing additional experimenting with) or that at some point their popularity grew so much that they were "scooped up" from the market. Whatever the case, I am thrilled to be presenting this fantastic cuff bracelet with two saturated purple amethyst cabs here. I would call this...