Catalog: Estate Jewelry (318)

Calling the vintage Mexican silver and black stone "mask" ring I am presenting here massive is not an exaggeration. It is not just the actual ring size (9.5 US) that makes it so; it is also the textured, solid setting, quite masculine in design, and the beautifully carved, stupendous effigy it houses. I am not sure what the stone is - I think it might be onyx but it could also be black agate. I am fascinated by its opaque gravity and the way its satin finish invites the touch...

Bearing the signature of Pedro Castillo this bracelet is, for me, a fusion of classic Taxco "arhaeological" as well as modernist elements. The overlay is immaculately crafted - one would never expect less from a Castillo - and the design lends itself to several readings...

True to the basic principles of the Arts and Crafts movement, this silver and sodalite ring brings together careful, honest craftsmanship in an uncomplicated, clear design that respects the nature of the materials used and brings out their natural beauty. I love the deep color of the stone with its veins of black and the spiderweb of white that just makes it through to the surface...

Sets of bangle bracelets are bound to lighten the spirit and brighten the day with their music and, if they are also studded with stones like the ones at ... hand, the splashes of color they scatter around. Made in the middle period of Taxco's 20th c. Silver Renaissance and signed by listed yet still unidentified maestros, these two came to me as a pair and this is the way I would like to send them out to their next new, loving home...

Slick, strong design that brings to mind the best of Scandinavian modernism, this sterling silver studio-made necklace consisting of neck ring and pendant is an unsigned American beauty...

Stunning Los Castillo "doorknocker" dangle earrings, these beauties are breath-taking and beguilingly curvaceous. I love this design and it has been a long time since I had a similar set. Sensual curves, sculptural teardrops, discrete little scrolls and confident, masterful repoussage - there is nothing about the pair that was not paid attention to. Even the concave round elements that hide the screw-back at the earrings' top have been enhanced with oxidation...

Heavy, early and wrought out of fine, .980 silver this Mexican Deco cuff bracelet is one of William Spratling's "archaelogically-inspired" creations of the renowned maestro's First Design Period. Thick silver sheet is carefully shaped and deeply hand-chased here with the gravitas of the labyrinthine geometric motifs further enhancing the piece's physical heft...

Based on one of William Spratling's most classic, early designs this Mexican Deco silver and amethyst ring is an anonymous beauty from the same period the renowned designer was active. Lean and mean in its constitutive motifs, it nevertheless packs a powerful visual punch what with the mysterious depths of its cloudy cabochon and the curves of the beading on either side of the stone...

Based on an original, almost impossible to find Margot de Taxco design, the repousse "swans-in-a-row" bracelet I am presenting here is wrought in fine, .980 silver and is a little masterpiece. I think suggesting that "A.E.M", whose initials can be found on it, was a maestro who worked for the Los Castillo and/or Margot de Taxco is not a far-fetched hypothesis. Not only is this piece very close to Margot's creation, it is also extremely well made, very sculptural and has crisp, rich detail to it...

Signed by Victoria who is often credited in the relevant literature with having perfected the "mixed metals" technique this big, bold combination pin / pendant brings together sterling silver, copper and brass in an Aztec Revival design. I am fascinated by the seamless marrying of the metals in "casados" pieces and Ana Nunez de Brilanti excelled in their design and crafting. Here, the round "shield" element is slightly concave and catches the light in ever-changing, fascinating ways...

Signed by Mary Gage, the eccentric yet talented silversmith (among other vocations!) of the late American Arts and Crafts movement, this wide sterling silver band ring is entirely hand-wrought and features her signature "lily pads" motif. It seems that Gage crafted this ring in 14k yellow gold as well which probably explains why, if you look really closely to the clusters of tiny beading separating the lily pads, you will spot two or three that are made of gold...

An early Taxco treasure, this Mexican Deco cuff bracelet is both generous in weight and wrought in fine, .980 silver. The design is classic for the period and I have seen all-silver versions of it over the years by anonymous and recognizable names, that of Emma and La Cucaracha being among the most famous. The marriage of silver and copper that we are treated to here, however, I have never encountered before...

The Arts and Crafts is one of my favorite periods in jewelry design - emphasis on motifs from nature, design that focuses on craftsmanship while allowing the viewer to follow the artisan's hand, "honest" materials without necessarily seeking out the most expensive metals and gemstones, it was a real break with the fussy excesses of Victorian aesthetics. The silver and banded agate intaglio ring presented here is an example that brings together all the above...

Straddling the divide between Aesthetic and Arts and Crafts design, this hinged sterling silver buckle bracelet was, I believe, made in the USA based on its hallmarking. The entire surface of the front "wing" is etched with ivy leaves, a motif beloved by the Victorians it seems, while the back is left blank, as is usually the case with bracelets of this type...

Lariat necklaces are a favorite of mine and when I come upon a good Mexican example, I make every effort to bring it to One Good Eye Silver. Truth be told, they don't come up as often as other forms but it is an exciting quest to pursue. The late Deco / retro piece I am presenting here is a clipless version - you can adjust it by tying a loose knot at the desired height and change the way it looks whenever you feel like it. Luxuriously thick, the twist rope chain glows with the beauty of a life ...

A classic early Matilde Poulat Mexican silver bracelet, its textured sterling wire-work adorned with beading and coral and turquoise cabochons, this piece was made in the 1934-48 period of Matl's creative life as is indicated by its hallmarks. Part of her "flat" as opposed to "repousse" jewelry, the bracelet is perfectly articulated and responds to the wrist's every move in a effortless, gracious way. Its "solid" construction bestows a welcome weight to it that feels warmly familiar when you hav...

Chunky fine, .970 silver and gorgeous, appetizingly curvaceous tiger's eye spheres come together in this set of Mexican cufflinks by Taxco's renowned modernist, Antonio Pineda. The specific design is very popular in necklace and bracelet form but when it surfaces, it is usually with chrysoprase or aventurine or some other green stone. This is the first time I have seen it with tiger's eye and I have to admit, I love the combination. What I also find very tempting is that the cufflinks seem to ha...

One of the Mexican designs inspired by Far Eastern cultures, the koi fish are a signature creation of Margot de Taxco and the Los Castillo yet its popularity prompted many of their "less celebrated" or anonymous contemporary maestros to come up with their own versions of it. And thankfully so because one can now find a beautiful example by a talented maker without having to break the bank - or at least not in a truly dramatic way! The all-silver necklace at hand is just such a welcome find. Very...