Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Silver (317)

Wrought in .900 silver which Matilde Poulat used in the early period of her career this stunning silver repousse brooch develops around a carved black onyx “mask”. Matl’s work is always impressive - no one could ever blame her creations for timidity - but it seems to me that the repoussage of her first years is even bolder...

Three old jade medallions carved in the shape of a butterfly and lotus flowers and set in silver adorn this beautiful Chinese brooch. Definitely an early 20th c. piece as attested to by the clasp's pin that protrudes beyond the sterling frame, this is a delightfully airy pin, its delicate lightness enhanced by the subtle colors in the stones and the winged creature it represents. If you love classy, elegant jewelry, this brooch is for you. It measures 2 5/8" long by 1" wide and weighs 15.2 grams...

Big and early as indicated by the .900 silver alloy used to craft it, this Mexican Deco silver repousse "mask" brooch I particularly love because of the gorgeous stone out of which the portrait is carved as well as the pronounced repoussage of the frame that surrounds it. If you follow my "journey", you already know that I am drawn to Mexican "mask" jewelry...

Signed by Mary Gage, the eccentric yet talented silversmith (among other vocations!) of the late American Arts and Crafts movement, this wide sterling silver band ring is entirely hand-wrought and features her signature "lily pads" motif. It seems that Gage crafted this ring in 14k yellow gold as well which probably explains why, if you look really closely to the clusters of tiny beading separating the lily pads, you will spot two or three that are made of gold...

Early, sweet little ring from Taxco, this pinky is wrought in silver and adorned with what I believe to be an ancient bi-cone stone bead out of which emanate two playful, musical cascabeles. It is not uncommon for vintage Mexican jewelry from the first decades of the country's 20th c. Silver Renaissance to incorporate ancient beads and small artifacts as it was not illegal at the time for individuals to buy and sell them...

Heavy, early and wrought out of fine, .980 silver this Mexican Deco cuff bracelet is one of William Spratling's "archaelogically-inspired" creations of the renowned maestro's First Design Period. Thick silver sheet is carefully shaped and deeply hand-chased here with the gravitas of the labyrinthine geometric motifs further enhancing the piece's physical heft...

An iconic Mexico City design from the Deco years, the "peyote flowers" is rendered here in fleshy repoussage that is further enhance with oxidation and the warm patina of time. Graduated in size the floral links are adorned with vibrantly colored turquoise cabochons and connected with "hidden" pin hinges which allow the bracelet to effortlessly conform to the wrist's moves...

It looks like this is a Matl year for One Good Eye Silver and I couldn't be happier about it! A few months ago I presented a Deco Matilde Poulat cross pendant necklace with kneeling angels and today I am featuring another, possibly earlier, variation of the design but this one wrought in fine, .980 silver...

Classic in its elegance and the delicate filigree work that embellishes it, this vintage silver and sodalite pendant necklace dates in the first decades of the 20th c. and I believe it is an Italian piece. Very similar to work that came out of the Peruzzi and Coppini workshops of Florence, the necklace is anonymous yet exhibits very high levels of craftsmanship and its finishing is impeccable...

I don't use the term "rare" very often when presenting my jewelry yet in this case, I just had to! Because this specific version of one of my favorite designs, the multi-row repousse semi-spheres hinged bracelets usually adorned with turquoise cabs, is indeed very very difficult to come upon. What elevates the bracelet at hand above and beyond other similar examples is the sheer size of the repousse semi-spheres that make up its two "wings"...

I am thrilled to have stumbled upon this amazing, quintessentially Deco and quite rare Mexican silver and stone ring! Though this piece is not signed for maker, the design is a known Fred Davis creation and as I have recently noted in one of my descriptions, Davis was never as adamant as Spratling was in hallmarking all jewelry coming out of his workshop. So out there, there are many Davis creations that are simply not marked fully and I believe this beauty might easily be one of them...

In the style associated with Matilde Poulat the Mexican Deco sterling silver brooch presented here is big, bold and beautiful! Wrought en repoussage and embellished with hand-chasing feathers and beads surround three gorgeous turquoise cabochons in shades of blue and green. The brooch is open-backed like many of Matl’s early pieces and a pleasure to wear and to behold. It measures 2 3/4” wide by 1 7/8” tall and weighs 17.8 grams...

Jewelry hosting carved stone hearts in silver settings was very popular in the Mexican Deco period. Teased out of jasper and agate and oftentimes even dyed calcite, the hearts are unfailingly curvaceous as if pulsing with life, their sculpturality shamelessly inviting the touch. The carvings usually dominate the piece with the silver-work providing discreet framing and even though the motif was taken up again in the post-1980 period, the later examples lack the vivacity of the old pieces...

True to the basic principles of the Arts and Crafts movement, this silver and sodalite ring brings together careful, honest craftsmanship in an uncomplicated, clear design that respects the nature of the materials used and brings out their natural beauty. I love the deep color of the stone with its veins of black and the spiderweb of white that just makes it through to the surface. I appreciate the light hand-hammered texture of the precious metal and the oxidation that has been ingeniously appl...

The busy, ever-changing worlds of the bottom of the sea and the shores of tranquil lakes unfold themselves in the carefully worked repousse silver frames surrounding the chunky turquoise "rocks" that adorn this early 20th c. Chinese necklace and earrings set. I never cease to be amazed at the amount of minute detail Chinese silversmiths were able to condense into such small spaces without ever losing the crispness of each motif. It is very difficult to create jewelry so generously embellished wi...

I have had this antique Indian Raj bracelet in my collection of unlisted jewelry for quite a while and from time to time, I would take it out and marvel at the miniature paintings that form its links. Colorful, minutely detailed and kept under glass, I think they depict long past scenes of Hanuman Jayanti - the feast and parade to mark the birthday of Lord Hanuman, Indian god of wisdom, strength and devotion. There are no hallmarks or signatures on the bracelet which makes dating it very difficu...

The Deco year saw an influx of gorgeous jewelry out of China in which, more often than not, contemporary silver work was combined with antique elements like carved semi-precious stone buttons, medallions and even mah-jhong and other game pieces. The ring I am presenting here is an immigrant of that era. Delicate silver vermeil adjustable shank and an old amethyst "button" with a lotus flower carving come together in an understated, classically elegant combination. And did you note the little det...