Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Mexican (255)

A retail shop in Taxco, according to Bille Hougart, Plateria Cortes is a name also found on some of Enrique Ledesma pieces, most probably because they were sold there. So my first thought when I saw this set of vintage Mexican silver surrealist earrings was that they might have been made by Ledesma. And then it all came back to me - a couple of years ago, I sold three sets of earrings in the same exact style (and actually even a pair like the one at hand) clearly signed for Sigi Pineda...

Two different sizes of sterling silver barrel beads adorned with a myriad of hand-made florets in the Etruscan style make up this generously long Mexican lariat necklace from the pre-1948 period. I am very partial to long necklaces and lariats are a small obsession of mine. When I am lucky enough to come upon an Etruscan example as the one presented here, my heart skips a beat...

Known for their high quality of holloware primarily, Ingrid's remains even today one of those elusive actors in the story of Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance. Active in the 1930s and 1940s, as Bille Hougart reports, this retailer seems to have been the venue through which well-known maestros like Chato Castillo sold some of their creations...

Maestro Damaso Gallegos was for years associated in my mind with the Mexican Deco "Christmas jewelry” tradition. His “holly and bells” as well as “bow and bells” designs are a classic way to celebrate the coming of the holiday season yet in the last couple of years I keep stumbling upon totally unexpected pieces by him. The massive, early Taxco combination pin / pendant with the carved stone “mask” at hand is crafted in high purity, .980 silver with overlay, beading and oxidation...

One of my favorite William Spratling designs, the original (bearing his signature) "hummingbird" pendant necklace I have seen crafted in all-silver and silver combined with black onyx or obsidian. I am sure other configurations must be available which I have not encountered so it is understandable that I was elated to discover this version marrying sterling with copper. My first surprise was followed by a second when I saw that the piece at hand was signed by Mari...

Classic Antonio Pineda bangle bracelet wrought in the maestro's favorite, .970 fine silver alloy with deep notches all around it that appear more dramatic thanks to the intentionally applied oxidation. There is something about Antonio's jewelry that bring them close to your heart as soon as you first see them and this piece is no exception. Enjoy it alone or, if you are lucky enough, add it to the stack of his bangles you already have...

A maestro from the middle period of Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance, Carsi is among those Taxco silversmiths about whom we don't really know much. I have had pieces by him a few times over the years and I was pleasantly surprised to have found his signature on the ornate bangle bracelet presented here. This wire-work scrolled heart motif I am used to associating with Arte en Plata, even though I have seen it by other makers or even anonymous in the past...

After working for Spratling in Las Delicias and Hector Aguilar in Taller Borda, Reveriano Castillo opened his shop Reveri in 1952 with the co-operation of his wife, Maria. His jewelry is known for its impeccable finishing and the good quality of materials used so I am always happy to come upon one of his creations. The set of earrings at hand in an abstract floral design with articulated stamen dangle is as sweet-as-can-be and ideal to celebrate the coming of Spring this year...

One of my favorite female designers of Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance (and admittedly, they aren't so many to begin with), Carmen Beckmann was a rather flexible maestra, able to create in many different styles. using a variety of materials. Her jewelry can be massive and jaw-dropping but quite as easily delicate and more sophisticated...

Hand-hammered silver reminiscent of the Arts and Crafts movement and a jade bead that brings to mind ancient Aztec and Maya jewelry combine in this sterling silver ring by the Los Castillo. The specific design does not come up very often. In all my years of buying and selling vintage Mexican jewelry I have only had two examples - the second one being the one offered here...

Glowing with the patina of time that adds precious depth to recesses of the design, this vintage Los Castillo repousse brooch has a more romantic air about it than most of their work. I love the combination of twists and twirls with the stylized "trumpet" flowers at the top and even though the elements which have been called into service here are definitely floral, I can't stop seeing the eyes of a night owl staring back at me in wise contemplation...

An early Mexican Deco bracelet, made in Mexico City as indicated by its hallmarks, this massive piece is as well-crafted as it is impressive. Impressive might even be an understatement, actually...

Elegant and "quiter" than most Matilde Poulat jewelry, this early repousse bracelet by the big maestra exhibits nonetheless all the attributes Matl's work is avidly sought after and venerated for. Repoussage that creates a body with impeccable texture and perfect finishing, a gorgeous golden sheen obsidian cabochon and, of course, the Mexico City style silver-work which to me represents Mexico's Arts and Crafts movement. What is there not to love here? I am very attracted to the size which allow...

A figural repousse Mexican Deco brooch in sterling silver this "portrait" piece bears the signature of early Mexico City maestro M. Velazquez. Over the years of my love affair with vintage Mexican silver jewelry, I have come to know and appreciate Velazquez's work for its "earthiness", its craftsmanship and the interesting designs he created. The specific "mask" motif I have had a few times in the past in necklace, ring and brooch forms but always anonymous. Often described as an Aztec or Maya "...

My second M Velazquez silver brooch for the day, this Mexican Deco repousse "portrait" I have never had (nor, I believe, seen) before. As opposed to the first figural pin, here the "sitter" is shown in profile, his likeness set in a raised frame against a stippled background. Velazquez's repoussage can be very dramatic and in the piece at hand it is also enhanced by deep chasing and oxidation which brings out the sculpturality of the face and the impressive headdress. The brooch measures 2 1/8"...

Vintage set of Mexican fine silver concave cufflinks signed by Antonio Pineda, this pair is wrought in the renowned Taxco modernist's .970 alloy. I love the sculptural lusciousness of the flat-bottomed ovoid body and the wave-like motion by which its edges rise and drop around the central hollow. In a slick mid-century design that can be easily enjoyed by just about everybody the cufflinks are 1 3/16" long by 7/8" wide and weigh 23.4 grams (for the set). They are fully marked with Antonio's cro...

I never tire of the double-sided pendant necklaces Victor Jaimez created for Emma Melendez. The perfect blend of Aztec Revival and modernismo Mexicano, they are unfailingly characterized by craftsmanship of the highest level and meticulous finishing. At the same time dramatic and awe-inspiring, the pendant's two sides showcase several techniques as overlay, oxidation and mozaico inlay come together to create the image of Quetzalcoatl and the abstract figure of a Meso-american monkey. The chain ...

For a few years around WWII and possibly up to 1950, Marcel Boucher had a special line of silver jewelry made in Mexico under the name "Parisina". I don't think we know which workshop produced those pieces or whether they were made by a number of different silversmiths. I can, however, say that Parisina jewelry ranges from the very light-weight to the chunkier, more substantial examples and that the same variety is also reflected in their designs. The Cuban link bracelet presented here is defini...