Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Silver: Mexican (255)

Generously long and imposing in its presence, this early Mexican Deco silver, copper and stone necklace with cascabeles is a great example of the way ancient Mesoamerican artifacts found their way into jewelry created during the country's 20th c. Silver Renaissance. Statuettes, clay "masks", beads of stone and silver, carved pieces of bone were unearthed on a daily basis in Mexico's countryside either by accident as people worked the land or as a result of deliberate "digging" to find them...

Dating in the earlier period of Matilde Poulat’s extraordinary career, the cross pendant presented here is adorned with Matl’s favorite stones - turquoise, amethyst and coral. Inspired by Mexico’s rich folk art, it belongs in her daringly eye-catching series of “jeweled” creations but here, there is an additional motif that makes the pendant even more precious. Namely, the two small repousse angel dangles, facing each other in a kneeling position with lit candles in their hands...

A book piece for Sigi Pineda, the “boomerang” brooch belongs in a line of jewelry in which the Taxco modernist combined layering, purposefully applied oxidation and vividly colored semi-precious and hard- stones to create slick, modernist, I would even say space-age, designs that seems as relevant today as they did when they were first introduced to the world...

One of the most successful duo in Taxco’s 20th c. Silver Renaissance, Cecilia and Tono excelled in some of the most difficult techniques in jewelry making like piedra negra, metales casados and mozaico Azteca. Their jewelry is usually modernist yet their designs unfailingly reference Mexico’s rich archeological heritage...

I acquired this pair of Miguel Melendez’s hinged bangles as a set some time ago and after long deliberations, I decided that they should continue in life as such. Miguel is one of Taxco’s modernists yet he honed his skills at Spratling’s Las Delicias and working for Margot de Taxco for many years. This specific design is a favorite of mine’s by him - it brings to mind rock formations and I love the interplay of negative and positive space...

Very much in the style associated with Matilde Poulat and often referred to as "Mexico City repousse" this sweet little silver "serpent scales" bracelet is adorned with an amethyst cabochon in its central station. An early example of this "school", it is an honest attempt to emulate the "grand dame" of Mexican silver jewelry albeit in a more demure, smaller scale than most of Matl's work...

Maestro Ocampo's work I have come to appreciate over the years for its good craftsmanship and attention to finishing yet it's been a long time since I offered a piece by him. Quite often his jewelry is inspired by the creations of the bigger talleres and if I am not mistaken, the bracelet at hand is based on a Los Castillo design. The technique employed is also something the Los Castillo tried their hand at...

Bold, colorful and generously long this vintage Mexican chain necklace is signed by Cecilia and Tono, one of Taxco's most successful duos. The combination of chunky amethyst, slender sterling tubes and lozenge stations embellished with azur-malachite inlay is undoubtedly eye-catching and I love the irregular shape of the stone beads which underscores their hand-cut quality. Wear it alone or combine it with similar pieces, the result will be stunning either way...

It's been a very long time since I offered a Mexican clamper bracelet and I am happy to be starting again with a classic Taxco design, this repousse and shadowbox "Quetzalcoatl" example. The maestro who signs it I am familiar with - he worked in Taxco and it seems that clamper bracelets were one of his favorite forms...

Impressive in size this vintage Janna Thomas Mexican silver pendant is an example of the "pluma Azteca" technique which incorporates vividly colored bird feathers in sterling jewelry. Very reminiscent of plique-a-jour work, "pluma Azteca" was introduced by the Los Castillo workshop and it is a demanding, difficult process so it was emulated by just a handful of other Taxco maestros. Thomas excelled in it, however, and her pieces are sought after by knowledgeable collectors...

Richly colored azur-malachite stone is paired with warmly glowing sterling in this chunky modernist Mexican silver bracelet signed by none other than the maestro of Piedra y Plata, Felipe Martinez. Martinez is one of my absolute favorite Taxco silversmith and a superb lapidary as well. He has an uncanny ability to pair silver with stone that works every single time, as if the two materials were just made to be together...

When I first started my love-affair with vintage Mexican silver jewelry, I found myself intrigued by the work of artists whose names were not among the first ones a new collector would focus on. I love a challenge and seeking out “less celebrated” maestros who nevertheless created superbly crafted jewelry in imaginative designs became my “mission”...

How often does one find a ring by renowned Taxco modernist Enrique Ledesma? Let me answer my question - almost never! Over the years of my buying, selling and researching vintage Mexican silver jewelry, I have come upon a few examples, almost all of them adorned with a color-change sapphire. I had never seen a ring in the design I am presenting here until I discovered this one some time ago...

Pendant necklaces are a favorite of mine - I love their versatility and the fact that I can layer them whichever way I want...

An early Mexican Deco silver repousse "mask" brooch, this pieces is wrought in sterling and its maker adorned their portrait with a long, dangling earring. It is evident from the piece's craftsmanship that its creator was well-trained maestro. Despite the thinner gauge of sterling sheet used, there is depth and good definition in the repoussage which result in easily "readable" details and good sculpturality. I have had many "mask" jewelry over the years by both anonymous and well-known makers a...

Dating in the 1940s, this massive sterling silver and azur-malachite "mozaico Azteca" inlay pendant necklace is signed by Taxco maestro Jose Anton. I am more used to Anton's repousse work yet from time to time, I do come across some examples that feature overlay and, as in this case, stone inlay. What impresses me here is, of course, the generously sized pendant with its "warrior" silver inlay in profile as well as the detail of the eagle figure floating in the air next to it. Well-made, with th...

A picture is worth a thousand words, they say, and in preparing to offer this fantastic find of mine, I am putting my trust in popular wisdom. When one has been dealing in vintage Mexican silver jewelry for as long a time as I have, one tends to hear that little "devil" in one's ear louder and louder, claiming that there is nothing new or exciting left to be encountered. Thankfully though, life and the old maestros of Taxco still keep some aces hidden up their sleeve. The early sterling and carv...

An iconic personality for advocates of female empowerment, Jeanne d’ Arc is not a figure I expected to see on a piece of jewelry by the Los Castillo. I look at the pendant and I see Margot de Taxco at her drawing table, sketch pencil in hand, making the French heroine materialize on paper before she is cast in sterling silver. Very unusual - I have never seen one before - the pendant is crafted “cameo style”, with Jeanne d’ Arc on horseback, brandishing her sword in full armor for the fo...