Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Silver (315)

Drawing inspiration from Mexico’s Spanish Colonial past, this sterling silver necklace and earrings set by Margot de Taxco combines dark oxidation with overlay and deep hand-chasing to achieve an elaborate and rich Old World visual effect. I find the central station to resemble a carnival mask - I know, too Venetian but then, carnivals were celebrated in Spain as well though not as elegantly or extravagantly...

Playing the violin with abandon as is evident by their determined expression, Margot de Taxco’s “musician putti” come here in earring form which is a rather rare occurrence. The specific angelic musician is usually found hanging off Margot’s charm bracelet of the same design, one out of a band of nine, and even though I have had the bracelet a few times in the past, this is the first pair of earrings I have found...

Who among lovers of vintage Mexican silver jewelry does not know Margot de Taxco's zodiac treasures? Charms, pendant, charm bracelets and brooches, they come in all those forms and they are avidly collected. Yet how many times have you come upon a mini, almost lingerie size, Margot astrological pin? Rare and sweet as can be, this 1 1/2" Aries beauty is irresistible. I can easily see it worn alongside one of its.....

One of my favorite William Spratling designs, the original (bearing his signature) "hummingbird" pendant necklace I have seen crafted in all-silver and silver combined with black onyx or obsidian. I am sure other configurations must be available which I have not encountered so it is understandable that I was elated to discover this version marrying sterling with copper. My first surprise was followed by a second when I saw that the piece at hand was signed by Mari...

A masterfully crafted, meticulously finished frame of sterling lily pads accented with tiny beading and elegant little wire swirls surrounds a flat-top amethyst gem in the vintage studio ring I am presenting here. This type of silver-work and the specific foliate motif is easily identified as created by Mary Gage, one of the most talented - and indeed most eccentric - silversmiths of the late American Arts and Crafts movement...

I have written in the past that Elna jewelry is more often than not very generous in proportions but this stunner of a bracelet goes above and beyond that! It is not just its sheer monumentality that impresses. It is also the classically "archaeological" character of the design itself which is expressed by the carved stone "mask" of an ancient Aztec Eagle warrior. Awesome in its military magnificence, the portrait is flanked by highly stylized butterfly (?) links with big cabochons set in bezels...

Hinged bangle bracelets whether gem- or hard stone-studded, wrought in shadow-box or simply crafted in bold, massive silver are among my favorite designs by the Los Ballesteros workshop. The modernist, generously wide version at hand with its impressed “nested ellipses” and its bezel-set green jaspers is a first one for me...

Calling the vintage Mexican silver and black stone "mask" ring I am presenting here massive is not an exaggeration. It is not just the actual ring size (9.5 US) that makes it so; it is also the textured, solid setting, quite masculine in design, and the beautifully carved, stupendous effigy it houses. I am not sure what the stone is - I think it might be onyx but it could also be black agate. I am fascinated by its opaque gravity and the way its satin finish invites the touch...

A whopper of a bracelet, this early Taxco Deco beauty was wrought in fine, 980 silver and has still evident the Spanish Colonial influence in its design. Bold yet simple in its constitutive motifs, the silver-work is made up of three massive curved links that are adorned with traditional wire appliques and a touch of deliberate oxidation...

Maestro Mateo is mostly known for his brutalist rings and his work spans the 1980 divide. Most of his pieces that were made after 1980 are wrought in 950 silver, which almost became the norm in Mexican jewelry during that period...

A classic early Matilde Poulat Mexican silver bracelet, its textured sterling wire-work adorned with beading and coral and turquoise cabochons, this piece was made in the 1934-48 period of Matl's creative life as is indicated by its hallmarks. Part of her "flat" as opposed to "repousse" jewelry, the bracelet is perfectly articulated and responds to the wrist's every move in a effortless, gracious way...

I have had this ring in my personal collection for several years now - always meaning to get it sized so I can enjoy - but I finally deciding to let it go. I have only seen this design once before, with a obsidian cab and a different shank but I really love how it looks with the “feathered serpent” jealously guarding an amethyst...

Matilde Poulat needs no introduction to the seasoned Mexican silver collector but I believe her work is equally appreciated by all lovers of bold, earthy, hand-crafted jewelry. Matl’s creations have a unique, powerful character - there is nothing timid or hesitant about them and I cherish them for exactly that. The ring presented here is a design that comes up less frequently than some of her other rings...

Dating in the earlier period of Matilde Poulat’s extraordinary career, the cross pendant presented here is adorned with Matl’s favorite stones - turquoise, amethyst and coral. Inspired by Mexico’s rich folk art, it belongs in her daringly eye-catching series of “jeweled” creations but here, there is an additional motif that makes the pendant even more precious. Namely, the two small repousse angel dangles, facing each other in a kneeling position with lit candles in their hands. The st...

Wrought in .900 silver which Matilde Poulat used in the early period of her career this stunning silver repousse brooch develops around a carved black onyx “mask”. Matl’s work is always impressive - no one could ever blame her creations for timidity - but it seems to me that the repoussage of her first years is even bolder. One would think that the combination of exuberant silver-work, cleverly applied oxidation and the patina of time would clash with the austere minimalism of the carved p...

It looks like this is a Matl year for One Good Eye Silver and I couldn't be happier about it! A few months ago I presented a Deco Matilde Poulat cross pendant necklace with kneeling angels and today I am featuring another, possibly earlier, variation of the design but this one wrought in fine, .980 silver. There are some additional motifs to the candle-holding celestial beings and the "jewels" in the pendant at hand - the cross is flanked by repousse little doves fluttering above its two arms an...

Elegant and "quiter" than most Matilde Poulat jewelry, this early repousse bracelet by the big maestra exhibits nonetheless all the attributes Matl's work is avidly sought after and venerated for. Repoussage that creates a body with impeccable texture and perfect finishing, a gorgeous golden sheen obsidian cabochon and, of course, the Mexico City style silver-work which to me represents Mexico's Arts and Crafts movement. What is there not to love here? I am very attracted to the size which allow...