Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Silver (314)

The story of this Mexican Deco silver and turquoise hinged bangle is an interesting one. When it came to me, it had a rather hastily applied gold plating that looked both out of place and, should I say?, garish. I cannot understand why anybody would do such a thing yet many a time, in discussions with older bench jewelers, I have been told that a few decades ago this was indeed a trend of sorts...

Based on one of Spratling's early designs, this "ring with three cascabeles" was also made in Taxco and wrought in high purity, .980 silver. I believe the motif is the same here as that in the renowned maestro’s tortoise shell and silver "snake" box - the more I look at it, the more I think of writhing serpents with spotted skins. And having sold Spratling’s original in the past, I can assure you the ring at hand is a worthy, very well made alternative...

One of my favorite insect designs in the world of vintage Mexican silver jewelry, this “machine age” dragonfly is known as a Los Castillo creation yet here it is signed by a “less celebrated” Taxco maestro. What first attracted me to this creature is its “industrial”, perforated wings that make the dragonfly look more delicate but awe-inspiring at the same time. Carefully hand-crafted and perfectly finished, the brooch is decorated with three polished agate cabochons...

Signed by a listed yet still unidentified workshop, this set of vintage silver and gold cufflinks is a classic Mexican Deco design. Inspired by the massive Aztec carved stone "Sun Disk" discovered in 1790 during excavations in Mexico City's zocalo, the pair is generous in size and quite nicely made...

A glorious emulation of Spratling's "Aztec Sun" design, the early Mexican Deco silver and amethyst cuff at hand combines repoussage and overlay with cleverly applied oxidation that adds more depth and drama to an already stunning bracelet. This is a generously proportioned piece so if you always craved a cuff like it but couldn't find one to fit, don't miss this opportunity...

An early Mexican Deco silver repousse "mask" brooch, this pieces is wrought in sterling and its maker adorned their portrait with a long, dangling earring. It is evident from the piece's craftsmanship that its creator was well-trained maestro. Despite the thinner gauge of sterling sheet used, there is depth and good definition in the repoussage which result in easily "readable" details and good sculpturality...

A classic Mexican Deco jewelry design element silver repousse semi-spheres were used by well-known designers like Fred Davis and anonymous Taxco maestros alike. They come in all sizes and combinations, in all-silver or adorned with stones and glass, and they unfailingly make for stunning jewelry. In this hinged bangle bracelet they are clustered together in fours to create little florets with bezel-set amethyst centers. In the back, they are simply stacked in rows...

Deeply carved so as to represent folds in a fancy bow tie the green agate in this big Mexican Deco brooch has beautiful color variation and is pleasantly "soft" to the touch. The substantial stone is generously backed in silver and held in place with sturdy, hand-wrought prongs. Classically Deco, I also find it rather tongue-in-cheek, an elegant "mockery" of the stiffness of "proper attire". The brooch measures 3" wide by 1 1/2" tall and weighs 33.6 grams...

Based on one of William Spratling's most classic, early designs this Mexican Deco silver and amethyst ring is an anonymous beauty from the same period the renowned designer was active. Lean and mean in its constitutive motifs, it nevertheless packs a powerful visual punch what with the mysterious depths of its cloudy cabochon and the curves of the beading on either side of the stone...

I have had full-sized Mexican silver and stone "idol" pendant necklace before but none like this exquisite example I am presenting here. Beautifully carved and visually imposing, the pendant's onyx Aztec / Maya male figure is shown in what I believe might be a supplication position. Cross-hatched bracelets carved into the stone hug his wrists while a silver necklace and an impressive headdress are the only other adornments covering his naked body...

Stern and solemn, a gorgeous example of classic Mexican Deco lapidary work, the chrysoprase “mask” centering the silver pendant at hand looks dignified and at ease, completely unaffected by the weight of its ornate headdress. The hefty, entirely hand-wrought chain that accompanies it is, I believe, original to the necklace and perfectly reflects the pendant’s heaviness...

Jewelry hosting carved stone hearts in silver settings was very popular in the Mexican Deco period. Teased out of jasper and agate and oftentimes even dyed calcite, the hearts are unfailingly curvaceous as if pulsing with life, their sculpturality shamelessly inviting the touch. The carvings usually dominate the piece with the silver-work providing discreet framing and even though the motif was taken up again in the post-1980 period, the later examples lack the vivacity of the old pieces...

One of the classiest and most classic Mexican Deco jewelry designs, the "shield" necklace is associated with the names of Fred Davis and Abraham Paz but has also been made by other, contemporary maestros both anonymous and "less celebrated". Our sterling and dyed green calcite example belongs in the latter group but, as I have pointed out many times in the past, its "anonymity" does not take away at all from its craftsmanship and good looks...

Made in Mexico City and following the “Matl school of repoussage” this early Deco silver and turquoise bracelet is anonymous and … gorgeous. Textured repousse feather motifs are predominant here, an allusion to the divine Feathered Serpent of ancient Mesoamerican civilizations. I have always thought that this specific type of work that allows you to follow the maestro’s hand as it works the silver could easily be considered Mexico’s Arts and Crafts expression. Here the articulation of ...

Based on Hector Aguilar's often referred to as the "fertility" parure, this anonymous Mexican Deco sterling silver band ring is a rare find. I love the combination of the two cross motif variations, the deep hand-chased details and the sense of depth enhanced with oxidation. Interestingly enough, though, and if I remember correctly, when asked about the specific design's meaning in an interview many years ago, Aguilar said that this was the sign the Aztec used to mark locations with gold deposit...

Spanish Colonial in inspiration with their heart-shaped wire-work and tiny little beading this set of sterling silver and amethyst dangle earrings is a Mexican Deco treasure. Securely set in their bezels, full of inclusions that shroud their depths in mystery, the stones are carved in the shape of leaves which hang off richly colored amethyst cabs. Big, bold, beautiful yet also so romantic and full of nostalgia. Measuring an impressive 2” long by 1” wide the earrings weigh 20.6 grams (for th...

An ode to overlay, beading and masterfully applied oxidation, this figural little Mexican Deco brooch is a depiction of Ozomahtli, the monkey companion of god Xochipili, associated with play and merry-making. I could have easily sworn that this is an example of Francisco Rivera’s work yet since it is not signed for maker, I can only suggest this might be the case. The quality is certainly there - thick silver sheet, attention to each and every detail, perfect finishing, good weight - a really ...

Rare to find and quintessentially Mexican Deco, especially if we are looking at the Mexico City school repousse pieces, these sterling silver rings with their carved stone "masquettes" are the dedicated collector's dream. Yet you don't have to be a collector to enjoy their unique character. What always attracted me to them is their "Arts and Crafts" style silver work which allows you to follow the maestro's creative journey by tracing the marks his/her tools left on the precious metal. Coveted a...