Catalog (325)

Known for their high quality of holloware primarily, Ingrid's remains even today one of those elusive actors in the story of Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance. Active in the 1930s and 1940s, as Bille Hougart reports, this retailer seems to have been the venue through which well-known maestros like Chato Castillo sold some of their creations. Based on my experience I can say that jewelry bearing their signature is not very often encountered but when it pops up, it is always on big, bold and bea...

An applied shimmering sterling double boomerang, riveted on the highly polished and oxidized body catches the eye in this vintage Mexican silver bracelet by renowned Taxco modernist Enrique Ledesma. A successful marriage of the link and bangle forms, it is made up of three articulated “wings” and when worn maintains is circular shape perfectly. It’s been a while since I offered an example of this specific Ledesma line and I am very happy to be presenting this piece today. An erudite illust...

I have said in the past that Erika Hult de Corral is one of the few designers in the world of Mexican silver jewelry for whom I will cross the 1980 threshold without second thoughts. I believe that her talent and the quality of her work combined with the fact that she is one of the few known female contributors to the country’s 20th c. Silver Renaissance more than warrants the… “transgression”. Slick, with a footprint that allows it to be enjoyed all year round, the necklace at han...

Potent design and perfect execution combine in this set of Antonio Pineda cufflinks shaped like bull skulls. Fine, .970 silver with a satin finish (which I love here!), horns of what I believe is obsidian and not onyx (they test as glass on my gem tester, which is what obsidian is, volcanic glass) and a haunting interplay of negative and positive space in the casting of the animal's skull bequeath an other-worldly aura to an already impressive pair - and I mean impressive both in its boldness as...

A masterfully crafted, meticulously finished frame of sterling lily pads accented with tiny beading and elegant little wire swirls surrounds a flat-top amethyst gem in the vintage studio ring I am presenting here. This type of silver-work and the specific foliate motif is easily identified as created by Mary Gage, one of the most talented - and indeed most eccentric - silversmiths of the late American Arts and Crafts movement. I have had a few pieces by Gage over the years - she does not seem to...

One of my favorite female designers of Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance (and admittedly, they aren't so many to begin with), Carmen Beckmann was a rather flexible maestra, able to create in many different styles. using a variety of materials. Her jewelry can be massive and jaw-dropping but quite as easily delicate and more sophisticated. The bracelet I am presenting here I call rare not so much for its design (which I have not seen before) but primarily for the scarcely seen snowflake obsidia...

When I first started my love-affair with vintage Mexican silver jewelry, I found myself intrigued by the work of artists whose names were not among the first ones a new collector would focus on. I love a challenge and seeking out “less celebrated” maestros who nevertheless created superbly crafted jewelry in imaginative designs became my “mission”. I have written in the past that “Cecilia and Tono are one of those well-hidden, well-kept "secrets" vintage Taxco holds for those of us who...

Exuding a primordial strength and keeping its secrets well hidden under layers of hand-etched scales, beading and overlay this stunning creature - I see it as a sea serpent but on second thought and if those appliques running along its spine are stylized feathers, it could be Quetzalcoatl as easily - is another treasure bearing the signature of Doris and her Corpus Artisans group of maestros. Appreciation for Doris jewelry has been growing steadily since I first started dealing in vintage Mexica...

Less-is-more would be the term I would use to describe this Carmen Beckmann modernist ring if it weren’t for that stone! Molten caramel golds fill the tiger’s eye slab almost in an ombre arrangement so that the ring changes the way it looks as the light that hits it changes. A true chameleon with a strong, “masculine” (am I even allowed the term any more?) setting, all angles and straight lines and a veritable show-stopper by one of the few female contributors to Mexico’s 20th c Silver...

Pendant necklaces are a favorite of mine - I love their versatility and the fact that I can layer them whichever way I want. Luckilly, there is a fabulous selection within the world of vintage Mexican silver jewelry to choose from but I feel particularly lucky to have come upon an example of a classic Taxco design that is, however, smaller in scale than pendants of this design usually in. Set with a color-change sapphire (often, and mistakenly, referred to as “alexandrite”) the “Aztec Sun�...

Hand-wrought in its entirety and a design that I have never encountered before, this early Mexican silver repousse necklace is an anonymous beauty. Its early date is attested to by the fact that it's strung on cotton thread (one of the earliest Aguilar "lyre" necklaces I sold was strung on cotton as well) and has a spring ring clasp. Not signed for maker nor metal content or origin, it is adorned by an elongated cascabela attached to the central station in an adorable yet naive way. I have to ad...

Attributions are a difficult issue in the world of vintage Mexican silver jewelry - they are almost never accepted. If a piece is not signed, it’s just not signed! In this case, however, I will put my years of experience behind my suggestion that the necklace I am presenting here is the work of Reveriano Castillo. When I acquired it, it had no clasp and since the specific Reveri design is usually marked exactly there, the connection to its maker was lost. I had my jeweler craft a fold-over cla...

Chunky fine, .970 silver and gorgeous, appetizingly curvaceous tiger's eye spheres come together in this set of Mexican cufflinks by Taxco's renowned modernist, Antonio Pineda. The specific design is very popular in necklace and bracelet form but when it surfaces, it is usually with chrysoprase or aventurine or some other green stone. This is the first time I have seen it with tiger's eye and I have to admit, I love the combination. What I also find very tempting is that the cufflinks seem to ha...

An early Taxco treasure, this Mexican Deco cuff bracelet is both generous in weight and wrought in fine, .980 silver. The design is classic for the period and I have seen all-silver versions of it over the years by anonymous and recognizable names, that of Emma and La Cucaracha being among the most famous. The marriage of silver and copper that we are treated to here, however, I have never encountered before. Not only is the mixing of the metals unusual - the incorporation of the specific silver...

Calling the vintage Mexican silver and black stone "mask" ring I am presenting here massive is not an exaggeration. It is not just the actual ring size (9.5 US) that makes it so; it is also the textured, solid setting, quite masculine in design, and the beautifully carved, stupendous effigy it houses. I am not sure what the stone is - I think it might be onyx but it could also be black agate. I am fascinated by its opaque gravity and the way its satin finish invites the touch. And what about tho...

A veritable show-stopper, this fine, .950 silver Mexican pendant combines brutalist elements with a classic Aztec Revival, beautifully carved obsidian "mask". Signed by Fernando Alvarez Mendez Mateo of Taxco, it was crafted in the post-1980 period yet is exhibits such craftsmanship, I wouldn't have been surprised if I had found an Eagle mark on it. Serene and dignified, the "mask" looks as if just emerging from the moss-covered floor of an ancient forest with the silver "flourish" under its chin...

It's been a very long time since I offered a Mexican clamper bracelet and I am happy to be starting again with a classic Taxco design, this repousse and shadowbox "Quetzalcoatl" example. The maestro who signs it I am familiar with - he worked in Taxco and it seems that clamper bracelets were one of his favorite forms. Always beautifully executed, his repoussage has good sculpturality and finishing and his jewelry, albeit not as heavy as those of the big talleres, has the weight necessary to impa...

Maestro C. Molina is one of those “enigmatic” figures of Mexico’s 20th c. Silver Renaissance. Even in Bille Hougart’s seminal work on hallmarks and makers there is minimal information about him - namely, two or three examples of the way his jewelry is hallmarked and the photos are really difficult to read. Yet I have come upon his works several times during my years of buying and selling vintage Mexican silver and our lack of information notwithstanding, I have come to appreciate the hig...