Catalog: Vintage Arts: Regional Art (266)

This is a pair of vintage Uzbek tent or yurt decorative hangings from Northern Afghanistan, mid to late 20th century. Each piece measures 11.43 cm x 63.5 cm. Decorative hangings such as this are usually suspended at the entrance of a yurt, and sometimes placed between piled up quilts. Solid embroidery in cross stitch in cotton thread, ending in wrapped, beaded cords with metallic trinkets.

This cushion cover from Swat Valley measures 45 x 78.5 cm and is in excellent condition. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century. The dark red embroidery depicts the typical ram's horn pattern seen not only in Swati embroideries but also in other Central Asian textiles. This pattern is juxtaposed with the repeating diamond motif - a stylistic feature of Swat and Hazara embroideries - seen here in the white checkered borders done in filling stitch and Holbein stitch. Silk floss thread on black cotton, in mostly long and short stitch.

A prayer cloth (mohr posh) embroidered by Hazara women, probably originating from Ghazni, Uruzgan or Bamiyan province. These prayer cloths are unique to the Hazara and are used to wrap the Shi'a prayer stone, called the mohr. At the time of prayer, the stone is laid on the cloth so that the worshipper touches with his forehead the small square where the stone is placed. The stone depicts the mosque and minarets of Karbela. Strong geometric patterns have been embroidered in satin stitch in bright colors. Though the patterns are stiff and regular, showing no individuality, the constant change of color, and particularly the white beaded fringes and embroidered borders, animate it. It is a very delicate and subtle piece, measuring 23 x 23 inches (58.4 x 58.4 cm).

A vintage Hmong textile from Laos, carefully crafted into a cushion cover backed with soft black pig suede. The cushion measures 11 1/4" x 15 1/2" with a 100% polyester insert. The textile itself consists of machine embroidery and reverse applique with some intricately worked hand embroidery as accents. The spirals symbolize longevity. Estimated age mid to late 20th century. Condition is overall great with some very minor fraying.

This saye gosha (or segusha) shows the dynamic use of line and vivid color for which Uzbek Lakai embroidery is famous. Saye gosha are V-shaped hangings used to decorate piles of quilts while in storage during the day in the yurt. The Lakai are an Uzbek tribe who currently live around Kunduz in northern Afghanistan. Originally more widespread, they were also once found in what is now Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. Silk thread in a combination of fine, slanting blanket stitch and double chain stitch on a red plainweave cotton. The two panels are animated by floral images interspersed with an abstract Lakai design neatly repeated. The motifs are densely arranged and tightly composed, but not overcrowded. The borders of this textile are embellished with twisted cotton fringes. Measures 25 x 75 cm on the right panel (including the fringes), 25 x 75 cm on the left panel. The back is lined at the top edge with printed green silk fabric. Condition is excellent. Estimated age: early to mid 20th century.

This is a densely beaded purse made by Pashtun nomadic women from Afghanistan depicting the ancient tree of life motif. It measures 12 x 19.5 cm and is in excellent condition. The beaded tassels are attached by cords made of metallic thread. The inside is lined with purple polyester fabric and features three pockets. The embroidery technique is a tightly worked ladder stitch accented with metallic braided trim. Estimated age mid to late 20th century.

Measuring 28.5 x 30 cm, this child's dress front from Afghanistan is in excellent condition. Mirrors are extensively used in Pashtun embroidery, because they reflect sunlight and protect the wearer from evil glances. The mica is attached to the fabric by means of minutely stitched mirror frameworks and encircling borders. This textile is impressive based on the extensive mirrorwork, beadwork, and meticulous herringbone stitch, with metallic thread in Bukhara couching. A textile like this may take 3 months to make. The reverse is a red velvet with silver embellishments. The piece is characterized by mirrored solar discs called "gul-e-peron"; while these have an ancient history as talismans, the silver cording on the shoulder hem and front is modern. This textile is dated to the mid 20th century.

Living in the mountainous regions of central Afghanistan, the women make these embroideries throughout the cold and harsh winters. This textile measures 25 x 27 cm and is in excellent condition. The embroidery technique is cross stitch in silk thread on an apricot cotton linen background. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century.

Measuring 10" x 15 1/4", this textile was made by Hmong women living in Laos. Machine embroidery, reverse applique combined with some tightlyworked hand embroidery for accents. The spirals symbolize longevity. Condition is excellent and its estimated age is mid to late 20th century. The cushion is backed with a supple dark magenta pig suede and features an invisible side zipper for ease of dry cleaning. The pillow insert is 100% polyester fiber.

Measuring 38.5 x 86 cm, this cushion cover from Hazara District in Pakistan is in excellent condition. As the Hazara district is situated between Punjab and Swat, the embroidery of this area is stylistically very similar to that of the Swat Valley. However, these pieces are generally more complex in design and construction. On one face of this textile the space is stabilized by two central medallions set within an elaborate network of octagons, diamonds and ram's horns in perfect symmetry. These motifs are very tightly constructed and densely embroidered, with subtle variations in hue and the utilization of negative space to maximum effect. The other face depicts a grid of eight-pointed stars embroidered in subtle gradations of pink and purple. These pillow covers ("thakia") are traditionally made for weddings. Mostly long and short stitch, cross stitch and satin stitch in silk floss thread, on a light pink cotton background. Condition: Excellent. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century.

A woven wool sash from Tibet, circa mid to late 20th century. Measuring 15.3 x 300 cm including the fringes, it is in overall good condition, but with some fraying. These sashes are used by Tibetans to tie their traditional attire (chuba for women, lokpa for men) and also to secure knives, bundles etc. Enlargement #6 shows the use of these sashes in traditional Tibetan nomadic culture (© 1995 East of Lo Manthang by Peter Matthiessen and Thomas Laird).

A silk and cotton ikat-dyed chapan with padded and quilted cotton lining from northern Afghanistan. It is in excellent condition, measuring 137 cm across from one sleeve end to the other; arm opening: 26 cm; bust: 49 cm; gusset to sleeve opening: 47.5 cm; shoulder hem to bottom hem: 113 cm. Estimated age late 20th century.

This is an Uzbek embroidered cloth from northern Afghanistan. The motifs and colors are typical of the embroideries of Tajikistan and southern Uzbekistan (Sukhandarya). Cross stitch and satin stitch in pink, green, yellow and blue yellow silk thread. This textile was probably made for a dowry. It measures 29.5 x 30 cm. Condition: Excellent, no fraying, no stains, no odors. Estimated age: mid or late 20th century.

This Uzbek suzani from northern Afghanistan dates to the mid 20th century or later and measures 76 x 99 cm including the fringes. The textile is hand-embroidered in silk thread in vivid colors on a green rayon ground with copper encrustations throughout, and edged on two sides with crocheted silk fringe. Couching stitch ("basma") is the embroidery technique. The textile is reversible and either face may be used as the front. Condition is overall very good, but with some dye run and one small tear from the metal accents. The combination of abstract floral designs and moon-disc motifs are characteristic of Uzbek suzani.

The Kuchi are the nomadic and semi-nomadic people of Afghanistan. This cushion was made from a traditional Kuchi textile and has burgundy velvet on the reverse with cording along the edges. The embroidery is intricate ladder stitch and button hole stitch, with cotton thread and metallic braiding throughout. Condition is great. It measures 44 x 64 cm. Estimated age mid to late 20th century.

This embroidered cloth from Paktya province measures 22 x 22 cm and is in excellent condition. Eight-pointed stars are repeated in symmetry and bordered by scroll motifs, all executed in silk thread in solid stitchery on a fine pumpkin linen background. This textile is in excellent condition. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century. The last photo shows the textile from the reverse, which is as equally fine in detail as the frontpiece.

Measuring 8 x 116 inches (20.3 x 294.6 cm) including the braided fringes, this woven wool sash from Tibet is in excellent condition. The sash is a dark bergundy with indigo stripes and orange thread sewn along the edges to prevent fraying. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century. These sashes are called kaabo and are traditionally used to tie and secure the national attire called chuba for women, lokpa for men (see enlargement #5, courtesy of Thomas Laird and Peter Matthiessen, East of Lo Manthang © 1995). The high lustre of the wool is attributed to the high lanolin content of the goat wool in the high altitude regions of the Tibetan plateau. The last enlargement is a photo by Heinrich Harrer depicting a traditional loom on which these sashes are woven (Ladakh, © 1988).

Strong geometric shapes densely embroidered in satin stich in vibrant colors animate this Hazara textile from central Afghanistan which is estimated to date to the mid 20th century. Silk thread embroidered on a fine cotton linen ground, the patterns are artfully joined into a robust and dynamic unity. Embroidery is an important winter activity for Hazara women who inhabit mountainous central Afghanistan, including Bamiyan, Oruzgan and Ghazni provinces. The Hazara are Shi'ite Muslims who comprise about 19% of the total population of Afghanistan. This textile is in perfect condition and measures 35 x 38.3 cm. The continuous supplementary-weft technique makes this textile reversible and either face may be used as the front.

This woven textile is from Tibet. Measuring 21.8 x 376 cm, it is in excellent condition. The high lustre of the wool is attributed to the high lanolin content of the goat wool in the high altitude regions of the Tibetan plateau. Enlargement #12 shows the use of these sashes in traditional Tibetan nomadic culture (© 1995 East of Lo Manthang by Peter Matthiessen and Thomas Laird). These sashes are used to tie knives and bundles and more importantly, to secure the dress of the natives (chuba for women, lokpa for men). This sash is estimated to date from the mid to late 20th century.

In central Afghanistan where villages are commonly cut off from the rest of the world during the winter months, the time spent by Hazara women in embroidering textiles such as this one is considerable. Depicting eight-pointed stars and triangles densely embroidered in silk thread on a fine cotton linen cloth, this napkin measures 38 x 40.5 cm and is in excellent condition. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century.

This is a vintage textile from Paktya province. It measures 28 x 29.5 cm and is estimated to date between early to mid 20th century. Silk thread is embroidered in extremely fine brick stitch and satin stitch on a tan linen background, depicting interlocking chevron and bricked lozenge motifs. Condition: Excellent.

A child's embroidered dress front from Hunza valley, located in the rugged, mountainous northern areas of Pakistan. Silk thread on cotton ground, densely embroidered in cross stitch and petit point. Estimated age mid 20th century. Measures 28 x 48.5 cm (11 x 19"). Some staining on the front with some dye bleeding. The reverse is lined in silk.

This saye gosha (or segusha) shows the dynamic use of line and vivid color for which Uzbek Lakai embroidery is famous. Saye gosha are V-shaped hangings used to decorate piles of quilts while in storage during the day in the yurt. The Lakai are an Uzbek tribe who currently live around Kunduz in northern Afghanistan. Originally more widespread, they were also once found in what is now Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. Silk thread in a combination of fine slanting blanket stitch and double chain stitch on a red plainweave cotton. The two panels are animated by whirling solar images edged with curvilinear and rounded wave-like motifs, densely arranged and tightly composed, but not overcrowded. The borders are embellished with twisted cotton fringes with beaded ends, a typical feature in Central Asian embroideries. This textile measures 9 1/2 inches x 28 inches on the right panel, 9 1/2 inches x 38 inches on the left panel. The back is lined in black cotton. Condition is excellent but for one inconspicuous stain on the right panel (on the magenta oval motif). Estimated age: early to mid 20th century.

In the mountainous central provinces of Afghanistan embroidery is an important winter activity for women. This hand-embroidered textile from central Afghanistan measures 26 x 28 cm, composed of silk thread in cross stitch on a beige cotton linen background. It is in excellent condition and its estimated age is mid to late 20th century. As Bernard Dupaigne has noted, a syncretic embroidery tradition has developed in the central provinces where Pashtun and Hazara villages lie in close proximity to each other, a style that incorporates both embroidery traditions - Pashtun and Hazara - thus the difficulty in pinpointing the exact provenance of this particular piece.

A pair of embroidered ankle bands from Turkmenistan, measuring 20.3 x 22.9 cm. Embroidery technique is extremely fine herringbone and satin stitch on an indigo silk background. Condition: Excellent. Circa early to mid 20th century.

Freely executed floral motifs in vivid colors adorn this hand-embroidered napkin from southern Afghanistan. The embroidery technique is satin stitch in silk thread on a fine cotton linen ground. The composition overall is very nicely balanced, with an eight-petaled red flower at the center. This textile measures 41.5 x 43 cm and is in excellent condition.

A vintage textile in silk thread from northern Afghanistan, probably from Mazar-i-Sharif, Balkh or Tashkurghan. Circa early 20th century. These kinds of textiles were made for domestic use. The back is lined with print fabric, most likely from Ivanovo, a town northeast of Moscow. The textile depicts floral designs around three central rosettes composed of long and short stitch enclosed by linear and curvilinear borders in satin stitch. The background is a bergundy colored cotton. The piece measures 17 1/2 x 37 1/2 inches. Condition: Very good, showing normal wear for its age. No significant stains.

Straddling both sides of the Durand Line, the Mangal tribe are an influential Pashtun tribe. This Mangal child's dress front features the ubiquitous "gul-i-peron" discs incorporating blue glass beads and mirrors on a leather ground, a talisman that protects the young wearer against the evil eye. Satin stitch, herringbone stitch, a tightly worked ladder stitch and Bukhara stitching are the elements that make this composition highly effective. The textile measures 21 x 23 cm and is in good condition overall except for some fraying on the orange silk section on the front of the piece. The three discs measure 5.5 cm in diameter. Estimated age: mid 20th century. Silk and metallic thread on cotton.

This little girl's chemise was made by Uzbek women and measures 45 cm across the shoulders, 49 cm from the top to the bottom hem. Silk ikat combined with jajim and silk thread embroidered in long and short stitch. Condition is excellent.

Measuring 81.5 x 100 cm, this gorgeous textile made by Uzbek women is machine-embroidered in silk thread with crocheted silk fringe edging. The bouquet motifs are typical of Uzbek embroidery. Condition is very good, with only one small hole (1 cm x 1 cm) in the center panel. Estimated age: late 20th century.

Measuring 39 x 40.5 cm, this textile from Afghanistan astounds in its meticulous satin stitch in vibrant, multicolored silk thread. Condition is excellent. No stains, no odors, no flaws of any kind. Estimated age: mid 20th century. The continuous supplementary-weft technique makes this textile reversible and either face may be used as the front. "Consisting of, or generated from, such simple forms as the circle and the square, geometric patterns were combined, duplicated, interlaced, and arranged in intricate combinations, thus becoming one of the most distinguishing features of Islamic art. However, these complex patterns seem to embody a refusal to adhere strictly to the rules of geometry. As a matter of fact, geometric ornamentation in Islamic art suggests a remarkable amount of freedom; in its repetition and complexity, it offers the possibility of infinite growth and can accommodate the incorporation of other types of ornamentation as well..." see http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/geom/hd_geom.htm

Mirrors ("shisha") are extensively used in Afghan embroidery. The silvered mica or glass is attached to the fabric by means of stitched frameworks and encircling borders. By reflecting sunlight, mirrors protect the wearer from negative energies and evil glances. This child's dress front is densely embroidered in silk thread on a purple polyester ground, complemented in royal purple velvet on the reverse. The neckline and outside borders are fringed with dense yellow and orange beadwork with two silver amulets at the neckline. The embroidery technique is a very tightly worked ladder stitch, a hallmark of Pashtun embroidery. This textile is in excellent condition, and its estimated age is mid 20th century. It measures 31 x 32 cm.

This child's dress front from Paktya province, Afghanistan measures 24 x 24.5 cm and is embroidered in fine cross stitch in silk thread, depicting eight-pointed stars and amuletic motifs. Condition is excellent. Mid 20th century.

This child's waistcoat was made in Kohistan which is located along the Karakoram Highway and on the Indus river in Pakistan. The textile measures 26 x 32 x 34 cm and is embroidered in acrylic thread on a fine black linen background. Silver amulets are incorporated into the textile to repel the evil eye ("djinn") and various coins adorn the bottom edge of the vest. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century. Condition is excellent.

This child's dress front from Gardez in Afghanistan measures 26 x 29.5 cm and is tightly embroidered in cross stitch. The geometric motifs are accentuated by the blue glass beads on each side of the textile, a prophylactic against the evil eye. The front side is embellished with metallic thread and Bukhara stitching, where the thread is taken along in intervals and fastened down by a minute cotton thread. This piece is in excellent condition and its estimated age is mid to late 20th century. It is in excellent condition.

This is a woman's dress front from northern Afghanistan, circa mid 20th century. Embroidered in fine cross stitch on plainweave olive cotton, the field design device of interlocking crucifixes within diamonds is frequently seen on Shahsavan rugs and textiles. The top edge is embellished with Bukhara couching, which are metallic threads covering the entire surface area and fastened at regular intervals by small stitches to form a relief pattern. The back of the yoke is lined in mustard-colored cotton. Traditional Afghan dresses have a yoke under the neckline from which long panels of fabric flow. Sleeves are typically wide, and they wear matching cuffed pants (shalwar) underneath. The garments are decorated with embroidery at the yoke, the bottom of the sleeves, and the cuff of the pants. When a garment wears out, they remove the embroidered areas and re-use them in a new piece so that their progeny may share some of the original outfit. This panel measures 13x13 inches (33x33 cm).