Catalog: Vintage Arts: Regional Art (266)

This hand-embroidered Uzbek textile from northern Afghanistan measuring 27 x 28 cm is in great condition. Cross stitch in silk thread on a cotton background. Circa mid to late 20th century.

A hand-embroidered bag made by Pashtun nomads from Ghazni province (probably Katawaz), Afghanistan. Floral motifs combined with arabesques in herringbone stitch in silk thread on a purple silk background. The Bokhara couching technique is used to maximum effect, where the metallic threads are laid parallel to each other and fastened at regular intervals by tiny red stitches. Blue beads adorn the edges to ward off the evil eye. The interior of the bag is lined in a blue printed fabric. Measures 12.5 x 17 cm. Condition: Excellent. Estimated age: mid 20th century (probably early to mid 1960).

Magenta silk thread is worked in mostly horizontal rows with geometric patterns superimposed in random coloring on this child's waistcoat from the early 20th century. It features metallic couching on the top and bottom edges, with blue beads in the front to ward off the evil eye. Satin stitch combines with Holbein and back stitch to accentuate the lozenge designs that cover the entire surface of each panel. The Mangal are the largest, and perhaps the most powerful and influential of Pashtun tribes, residing in southeastern Paktia and adjacent Khost provinces of Afghanistan and over the Pakistani border in Waziristan. This charming textile is in excellent condition with three rows of missing beads (to be mended by the seller). The back panel is a plainweave striped cotton. The front of the shirt measures 29.8 x 33 cm, and each waistband measures 4 x 17.1 cm.

Measuring 25.2 x 30 cm, this embroidered cloth from Jaghori in Ghazni province was made by Hazara women. It depicts in vibrant colors four eight-pointed stars and triangular hooked motifs down the center. The stitching is a combination of satin, herringbone and cross stitch, in silk thread. Embroidery is an important winter activity for the women of central Afghanistan, a mountainous region where villages can be isolated by snow for months. This textile is in perfect condition, and its estimated age is early to mid 20th century.

A knotted pile hat from northern Afghanistan, made by Uzbeks. Diameter is 18 cm, circumference 51.5 cm. Circa mid to late 20th century. Condition is excellent.

In mostly satin stitch and cross stitch in silk thread, this piece measures 45½ x 36½ inches (115.6 x 92.7 cm). Saye goshe are an Uzbek V-shaped fringed hanging used to decorate piles of quilts when they are stored during the day. The blazing colors on this textile depict traditional Uzbek motifs with stylized pomegranate flowers. Still living in yurts, the Lakai Uzbek have perfected the interior decoration of their homes. The yurt is embellished with bands, cushions and covers for the bed linen which is folded against the walls during the day. The Uzbeks have preserved the traditions and embroideries of Central Asia. Condition: Excellent. Age: Second half of 20th century.

This is a tobacco pouch from Indus Kohistan in Pakistan, probably from Kolai or Palas Valley. Circa mid 20th century. It is embroidered in an extremely fine, solidly worked brick stitch in various colored silk threads on a black cotton background. The outer edges of the bag are embellished with beaded tassles. One side of the purse features zigzag motifs, the other, interlocking diamond motifs. The purse also features a little string that tightens the purse at the top and is used to hang the pouch from the huqqa (water-pipe). The pouch measures 10.8 x 12.1 cm; including the beadwork, it measures 14 x 20.3 cm. Condition is perfect.

A child's shirt front from Ghazni province, circa early to mid 1960s, probably from Jaghori or Katawaz. Densely embroidered in extremely fine brick and satin stitch in silk thread on purple silk, the lozenge patterns are framed by Bokhara couching, where the metallic threads are laid in parallel and then fastened with tiny stitches, forming a relief pattern. Blue beads surround the edges, to protect against the evil eye. The waistbands are equally stunning in detail, embroidered in herringbone stitch on orange silk. This textile measures 25.5 x 27 cm when measured without the waistbands; with the waistbands included it measures 27 x 63 cm. Condition: Excellent. No fraying, no tears, no missing beads, no stains.

The Mangal are one of the largest and perhaps the most powerful and influential Pashtun tribes, residing mostly in Southeastern Paktia and adjacent Khost provinces of Afghanistan. They are renowned for their independent nature and a long history of resisting British forces, central and provincial governments, Soviet army, and even fellow Pashtun Taliban militia. The Mangal tribe also reside in Pakistan's Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa province, and Waziristan, in FATA (Federally Administered Tribal Areas). This child's dress yoke was made by Mangali women and is composed of very thick bergundy silk thread embroidered in vertical bands of heavy whip stitch on a cotton background, with traditional tribal patterns in solid stiches. It measures 11 1/4 x 11 3/4 inches (28.6 x 29.8 cm). Condition is excellent and dates to the early to mid 20th century.

This Turkman Yomut's child's cap from Herat measures 17.8 cm in diameter and 49.5 cm in circumference, 5.5 cm in height. It is estimated to date to the mid 20th century and is in excellent condition. The embroidery technique is cotton thread in a tightly worked satin stitch on a light beige cotton ground.

This vintage purse from Afghanistan is worked in a variation of ladder stitch and Bukhara couching to form repeating whorl and volute motifs. Silk and metallic thread are embroidered on a green polyester ground. The purse feature two inside pockets lined with red printed cotton, with the outer edges fringed with blue glass seed beads to protect against the evil eye. It measures 10.5 x 14 cm when closed, 13.8 x 25 cm when opened and dates to the mid or late 20th century.

This dazzling child's dress front was made by Pashtuns and is probably dated to the 1950s or 60s. The embroidery technique on this textile features couched metallic threads forming an intricate combination of linear and circular designs, so densely arranged as to almost completely obscure the dark purple silk ground. Composed of metallic embroidery (Bokhara couching), the gold thread is taken across the surface for the desired length, then, bringing the needle back to the beginning, it is caught down at regular intervals by small stitches. The process is repeated until the entire surface is covered, the small holding stitches being staggered from one thread to the next, giving a characteristic relief to the pattern. Measures 22 cm x 27.5 cm. Condition: Excellent.

A small khalta (pouch) in cross stitch from Kunduz province, Afghanistan, hand-embroidered by Uzbek women of the Lakai tribe. Circa 1950. It measures 5 1/2 x 8 inches without the beaded tassles; with the beaded tassles, 7 1/2 x 9 inches. The bag is lined inside with red cotton, and the outlines on the exterior are embellished with tassles and white glass beads. Cross stitch is typically chosen for motifs set in the angles around 8-pointed stars or in designs with sections of embroidery in contrasting colors, in which the same motif is repeated in various colors, as seen in this purse. The stitches seen in Lakai embroideries are rather larger than the Hazaras' very precise cross stitching. In this case, the design is the same repeating motif, a lozenge embroidered in dynamic color contrasts. The attached string measures 25 inches. This little khalta is in excellent condition (i.e., no fraying, no holes, no stains nor fading).

This is a shepherd's wool coat from upper Chitral or Nuristan, depicting the branched "ram's horn" and tree of life designs reminiscent of the woollen garments and felts of central Asia. The mountainous area of Chitral adjoins the province of Nuristan in Afghanistan, a historical and geographic starting point for continuous trade routes into central Asia. The coat dates to either the mid or late 20th century and is in excellent condition given its age. The embroidery technique is chain stitch in woollen thread. It measures 35" (90 cm) across, and 32" (81 cm) in length. The sleeve openings are 10" (25 cm). The bust measures 20" (51 cm). There is an inner flap behind the front opening, and a gap under the arm instead of a gusset.

A man's shawl from Waziristan which is part of the Federally Administered Tribal Areas, considered to be outside Pakistan's four provinces. Circa 1920s. The Mangal tribe who inhabit Waziristan actually straddle the border between Pakistan and Afghanistan. This textile is very complex, composed of a black woven cotton field and silk ends, with silk embroidery in between. The combination of black cotton ground and silk is used to vivid effect. The piece measures 87 inches by 51½ inches (221 cm x 130.8 cm). The silk threads are in bergundy, turquoise, mustard yellow, white, black and blue. Only the black background is cotton, the rest of the piece is woven silk. Warp-faced, embroidered, supplementary weft, and hand-sewn techniques are all visible especially in enlargement #10. This textile is comprised of two pieces stitched together at the center with yellow thread. Condition: Excellent, just a small spot on the front that may appear faded but this is from decades of wear.

This child's dress front in cross stich from central Afghanistan dates to the mid to late 20th century. It measures 11¾ x 18 inches (29.8 x 45.7 cm). Traditional Hazara pieces (the smallest ethnic minority group of Afghanistan), like Pashtun pieces, have a yoke under the neckline from which gathered, long panels of fabric flow. Sleeves are normally wide, and they wear matching cuffed pants underneath. The garments are decorated with embroidery at the yoke, the collar, the bottom of the sleeves and the cuff of the pants. When a garment wears out, they remove the embroidered areas and re-use them in a new piece, so several generations might share some of the original outfit. This yoke features various diamond motifs in bright pink, yellow, green, maroon and blue in cotton floss embroidered in cross stitch. The neckline is an intricate pattern of densely embroidered metallic threads against a blue satin background. The back is lined with red and blue cotton fabric. This piece features an amulet on the bottom front, embroidered in metallic threads, placed there to protect against evil. The condition of the textile is excellent.

This is a woman's shift ("kurta") from Swat Valley, Pakistan. It measures 125 cm from one sleeve extended to the other; the gusset measures 24 cm; the bust 57 cm. From top shoulder to bottom hem it measures 91 cm. The sleeve opening is 17 cm. The embroidery technique is pink and red floss silk on indigo-dyed and black cotton depicting geometric shapes typical of the embroidery of the Swat Valley. Condition of this textile is excellent. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century.

Saye qosha is an Uzbek textile used to decorate piles of quilts when they are stored during the day. Two rectangles of cotton solidly embroidered in cross stitch with multi-colored hooked motifs, sewn together to make a V-shape. Fringes along the bottom in alternating green, bergundy, yellow, red, purple, and white. In their colors and repetition, these motifs are typical of the embroideries of Tajikistan and Sukhanderia in southern Uzbekistan. The length of this embroidery is 25 inches from each upper top edge to the V, for a total of 50 inches. In width, the embroidery measures 10 1/2 inches on each side of the V, including the fringes. The back is lined with red cotton. Condition of this textile is perfect.