Catalog: Vintage Arts: Regional Art (266)

This man's wedding shawl (known as "malir", or "doshalo") is from Tharparker district in Sindh province and would be a gift from a bride and her family to the groom for his wedding day attire. It is basically an embroidered "ajrak", meaning a red handspun, mordant-dyed, resist-printed cotton, embroidered in the four corners with stylized peacocks symbolizing fertility, and randomly placed mirrors ("shisha") as accents. The embroidery is a combination of ladder stitch, satin stitch and chain stitch in silk thread, with some couching. These wedding shawls were originally produced in the village of Malir in the Tharparker district and are still being made in other villages of Tharparker. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century. The textile measures 59.5 x 93 inches (151.1 x 236.2 cm) and is in pristine condition.

A Labijar kilim in slitweave from northern Afghanistan. It measures 70 x 96 cm and is hand knotted from sheep's wool. Late 20th century.

The Kuchi are the nomadic and semi-nomadic people of Afghanistan. This cushion was made from a traditional Kuchi textile and has burgundy velvet on the reverse with cording along the edges. The embroidery is intricate ladder stitch and button hole stitch, with cotton thread and metallic braiding throughout. Condition is great. It measures 44 x 64 cm. Estimated age mid to late 20th century.

Measuring 15 x 26 cm this charming purse is completely hand-embroidered in silk thread on a polyester ground. The embroidery is a very finely worked ladder stitch combined with Romanian couching ("pokhtaduzi") so densely worked as to almost completely obscure the background fabric. The metal thread around the mirrors is fastened down at regular intervals with small holding stitches, producing a characteristic relief to the pattern. Blue seed beads on all the edges are intended to ward off the jinn from the wearer. Three inside pockets. The wallet is estimated age mid 20th century and is in excellent condition. Silk tassels on a braided silk cord forms the closure.

Measuring 33 x 39 cm, this vintage Hazara child's vest from Afghanistan is from the 1960s. The embroidery is extremely fine straight stitch and long and short stitch in wool thread on a light brown linen ground, depicting geometric motifs in vibrant color. Condition: Excellent, no stains, no holes, no odors. The Hazara are the third largest ethnic group of Afghanistan. They are a Persian-speaking people who live mostly in central Afghanistan (Bamiyan and Ghazni provinces) and are overwhelmingly Shia Muslims, forming about 19% of the total population of Afghanistan.

A hand-embroidered Hazara cloth from Afghanistan, circa mid 20th century. Silk thread on a white linen background executed in satin stitch. Condition is excellent. No flaws nor stains. Measures 31.3 cm x 31.8 cm.

Strong geometric shapes densely embroidered in satin stich in vibrant colors animate this Hazara textile from central Afghanistan which is estimated to date to the mid 20th century. Silk thread embroidered on a fine cotton linen ground, the patterns are artfully joined into a robust and dynamic unity. Embroidery is an important winter activity for Hazara women who inhabit mountainous central Afghanistan, including Bamiyan, Oruzgan and Ghazni provinces. The Hazara are Shi'ite Muslims who comprise about 19% of the total population of Afghanistan. This textile is in perfect condition and measures 35 x 38.3 cm. The continuous supplementary-weft technique makes this textile reversible and either face may be used as the front.

This beautiful textile was made by Pashtun nomadic tribeswomen of Hazarajat. It measures 52 x 65 cm without the fringes (57 x 71 cm including the fringes). Shisha (mirrors) illuminate the textile and are fastened by buttonhole stitches, surrounded by volute designs worked in a very fine ladder stitch in silk thread on a dark purple silk background. The design composition is framed throughout with woven metal-thread braid with blue and white beads edging the textile. Condition: Excellent. Circa: mid 20th century.

Measuring 29.2 x 33.6 cm, this textile is from central Afghanistan, home of the minority Hazara people who are Shi'ite Muslims, inhabiting at least three or four provinces (Jaghori, Bamiyan, Orugzan, Wardak). The embroidery on this textile is exclusively silk herringbone stitch on an ivory cotton linen ground. The textile is in good condition overall with some mild staining. Estimated age: early to mid 20th century.

In central Afghanistan where villages are commonly cut off from the rest of the world during the winter months, the time spent by Hazara women in embroidering textiles such as this one is considerable. Depicting eight-pointed stars and triangles densely embroidered in silk thread on a fine cotton linen cloth, this napkin measures 38 x 40.5 cm and is in excellent condition. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century.

A small beaded purse made for storing kohl. Silk thread embroidered on cotton, worked in extremely fine satin stitch and filling stitch. Indus Kohistan is located in the province of Pakistan formerly known as the North-West Frontier Province (NWFP), recently re-named Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. In Persian, Kohistan means Land of Mountains. In Persian "koh" means "peak" and "istaan" means "land of". This textile measures 8.5x10 cm when closed, when opened, 10x16 cm. Condition: Excellent. Estimated age: mid 20th century.

An envelope-shaped purse from Jaghori area of Ghazni province, Afghanistan, circa 1930. The silk embroidery is very dense, combining satin stitches with brick stitches into an alternating geometric pattern of zigzags and diamonds. The borders of the purse echo with similar triangular designs. The bag is lined in fine green cotton. Pompoms and buttons are used as highlights, with a card-woven braid serving as a closure. The edging is overstitched in alternating green and brown. These purses are used to hold treasures, with smaller versions made for kohl. 6 1/2 x 10 1/2 inches when opened, 5 1/2 x 6 1/2 inches when closed.

Typical of the mountainous Swat valley in northern Pakistan, this cushion cover is distinguished by the black cotton background embroidered in a zinging, shocking pink. This amazing piece measures 12¼ inches x 32 inches (31.1. cm x 81.3 cm). Swati embroidery patterns are traditionally handed down from mother to daughter and these are the typical color contrasts. In Swat, the embroidery is called bagh or flower garden. Elsewhere in Pakistan it is called phulkari, an Urdu word derived from phul, meaning flower. Swati textiles like this one ultimately express a local aesthetic. This piece is embroidered with floss silk in a predominantly geometric pattern, with the space stabilized by two centered medallions and decorated with borders in perfect symmetry. Swati embroidery patterns are typically dense and tightly constructed, breaking up the surface plane as no other Pakistani folk tradition does. The embroidery is exquisitely fine satin stitch counted-thread work in silk thread. These cushion covers are traditionally made for weddings. The condition of the textile is excellent. The last enlargement was taken of the reverse side of the piece showing the intricate embroidery.

A prayer cloth (mohr posh) embroidered by Hazara women, probably originating from Ghazni, Uruzgan or Bamiyan province. These prayer cloths are unique to the Hazara and are used to wrap the Shi'a prayer stone, called the mohr. At the time of prayer, the stone is laid on the cloth so that the worshipper touches with his forehead the small square where the stone is placed. The stone depicts the mosque and minarets of Karbela. Strong geometric patterns have been embroidered in satin stitch in bright colors. Though the patterns are stiff and regular, showing no individuality, the constant change of color, and particularly the white beaded fringes and embroidered borders, animate it. It is a very delicate and subtle piece, measuring 23 x 23 inches (58.4 x 58.4 cm).

Embroidered purses ("bushkiri") are used by the Baluch to store and carry valuables and bridal dowry gifts. This little purse is embroidered in extremely fine satin stitch, brick stitch, and ladder stitch in silk thread, forming interlocking lozenge and chevron designs. Condition: some wear throughout. It measures 10 x 18 cm when opened, 9.5 x 10 cm when closed.

Depicting curling horned and star patterns, this wedding textile from the Hazara district of Pakistan, in the province of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa (formerly known as NWFP) is densely embroidered in silk floss thread on a black cotton ground. It measures 70 x 77.5 cm and is in excellent condition. The motifs are curvilinear and embroidered in dark red in a combination of satin stitch and long and short stitch, outlined with a top stitch of golden silk floss. Estimated age: late 20th century.

This embroidered shield-shaped panel ("Uut kap Ilgitsh") made of thick red velvet would traditionally be one of a pair, to protect the ends of yurt poles which are tied into bunches on a pack animal's back while in transit to a new location. These bags have both protective and decorative functions. The repeating embroidered ram's horn motif in metallic couching evokes the animal art of the Central Asian steppes. This motif is an ancient one, found on many Central Asian textiles including felts from the Pazyryk burials of the Iron Age Scythian horsemen. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century. Embroidered, appliqued on red cotton velvet, tasseled. Measures 7.62 cm x 38.1 cm including tassels. Probably Kirghiz or Kazakh.

This embroidered cloth from Paktya province measures 22 x 22 cm and is in excellent condition. Eight-pointed stars are repeated in symmetry and bordered by scroll motifs, all executed in silk thread in solid stitchery on a fine pumpkin linen background. This textile is in excellent condition. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century. The last photo shows the textile from the reverse, which is as equally fine in detail as the frontpiece.