Catalog: Vintage Arts: Regional Art (266)

Embroidered in vivid turquoise silk floss with a top stitch of golden silk floss, this woman's shawl ("phulkari") from Swat Valley measures 97 cm x 198 cm and is in excellent condition. The designs are stylized rosettes with densely embroidered borders and a medallion motif in the center. Black is the dominant color for the background of Swati embroideries, which share many motifs in common with the embroidery from Hazara district. The unique motifs on this wedding shawl suggest Chinese influence and similar stylized floral patterns are found on Tibetan scrolls. The curvilinear motifs and dense areas of stitchery are composed of the characteristic "phulkari" stitch which resembles a satin stitch but only on the front side. It is embroidered from the reverse side on a plainwoven coarse cloth known as "khaddar". This shawl is estimated to date to the late 20th century.

This child's dress front from Gardez in Afghanistan measures 26 x 29.5 cm and is tightly embroidered in cross stitch. The geometric motifs are accentuated by the blue glass beads on each side of the textile, a prophylactic against the evil eye. The front side is embellished with metallic thread and Bukhara stitching, where the thread is taken along in intervals and fastened down by a minute cotton thread. This piece is in excellent condition and its estimated age is mid to late 20th century. It is in excellent condition.

This lovely cushion cover from Swat Valley is densely embroidered in mustard and salmon floss-silk thread in darning stitch on a black cotton ground. The motifs are typical of the embroidery of Swat and Hazara regions of Pakistan, geometric and curvilinear motifs outlined in yellow running stitch. The textile is in excellent condition and features a slit on the back for a pillow insert. It measures 38 x 38 cm. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century.

This cushion cover from Hazara district features stylized floral patterns and curvilinear geometric motifs outlined with a top stitch of black thread on mustard-colored cotton. Touches of turquoise and shocking pink combine with rust-colored silk floss thread to create an overall design suggestive of central Asian influence. It measures 41 x 41 cm and is in excellent condition. Late 20th century.

The embroidery of Swat Valley is renowned for its dramatic colors stitched against a black background. This cushion cover from Mingora in Swat is in satin stitch in a deep purple with pink highlights. The embroidery is silk floss thread outlined with yellow outline stitching on a black cotton background. There is one small tear on one corner of the textile. It measures 41 x 41 cm and is dated to the mid or late 20th century.

Some of the finest embroidery of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa (formerly known as North West Frontier Province, or NWFP) comes from Swat Valley, known for its lush green mountains and turquoise colored rivers. The typical 'ram's horn' pattern seen in many parts of central Asian embroideries and carpets is reflected in this cushion cover from Swat. Satin stitch and darning stitch in floss-silk thread outlined in orange thread combine effectively to cover large surface areas of the textile and showcase the central medallion. The color of the thread is difficult to convey on film as it is actually a deep turquoise, alternating with yellow and white thread. The reverse is black cotton with an opening slit for the pillow form. It measures 40 x 41 cm and is in excellent condition. Estimated age: late 20th century.

Measuring 28.5 x 30 cm, this child's dress front from Afghanistan is in excellent condition. Mirrors are extensively used in Pashtun embroidery, because they reflect sunlight and protect the wearer from evil glances. The mica is attached to the fabric by means of minutely stitched mirror frameworks and encircling borders. This textile is impressive based on the extensive mirrorwork, beadwork, and meticulous herringbone stitch, with metallic thread in Bukhara couching. A textile like this may take 3 months to make. The reverse is a red velvet with silver embellishments. The piece is characterized by mirrored solar discs called "gul-e-peron"; while these have an ancient history as talismans, the silver cording on the shoulder hem and front is modern. This textile is dated to the mid 20th century.

Mirrors ("shisha") are extensively used in Afghan embroidery. The silvered mica or glass is attached to the fabric by means of stitched frameworks and encircling borders. By reflecting sunlight, mirrors protect the wearer from negative energies and evil glances. This child's dress front is densely embroidered in silk thread on a purple polyester ground, complemented in royal purple velvet on the reverse. The neckline and outside borders are fringed with dense yellow and orange beadwork with two silver amulets at the neckline. The embroidery technique is a very tightly worked ladder stitch, a hallmark of Pashtun embroidery. This textile is in excellent condition, and its estimated age is mid 20th century. It measures 31 x 32 cm.

This lady's shawl from the Hazara region in Pakistan measures 105 x 224 cm including the fringes. The geometric patterns are hand-embroidered in straight stitching in vivid pink floss-silk with touches of light pink, outlined in yellow double running stitch on a black wool ground. The shawl is dated to the late 20th century and is in perfect condition.

Measuring 32.5 x 208 cm on black cotton, this woman's scarf from Hazara district in Pakistan is embroidered in satin stitch in floss silk thread. The curvilinear motifs are outlined with stitches of golden floss thread. The motifs are arranged into geometric compositions indicative of Central Asian influence. Condition is excellent and its estimated age is late 20th century.

Measuring 36 x 222 cm including the beaded tassels, this wedding turban from Hazara district in Pakistan is hand-embroidered in mostly dark pinkish-red floss silk on an indigo dyed cotton ground. The meticulously worked satin stitch is typical of Hazara embroidery with close links to the phulkari embroidery of Punjab. One end of the turban is missing the tassles. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century.

A king-sized cotton duvet cover from Nepal, measuring 111 x 74½" inches (43.7 x 29.3 cm) in purple, red and green. The viúvavajra ("crossed vajra") and chevron motifs are depicted in wool thread in chain stitch. Condition: Excellent. The vajra (meaning diamond or thunderbolt) is believed to represent firmness of spirit and spiritual power and is displayed in the national emblem of Bhutan.

A pair of hand-carved window frames from Bhaktapur, an ancient Newar city in the Kathmandu Valley. They measure 44 x 45.5 cm and are dated to the late 20th century. Woodwork has been part of Nepal’s traditional architecture and wood carvings have graced temples, monasteries, residential homes and palaces since the twelfth century, although the earliest surviving temple decorated with wood carvings, bears the date 1396. Another traditional architectural site, which is believed to have been built as a shelter for travellers in Kathmandu that still stands, was believed to date back to before 1143 but there is no evidence of its true date. In fact, the history of woodcarving in Nepal is older than that. Woodcarving in Nepal is an excellent example of Newari art. The Newari language comprises of a rich vocabulary of wood carving terms. Each component forms a part of a traditional pattern. Each detail of the craft has a name. The decorative work has to be very precise so that the countless pieces used to make up the pattern fit perfectly, because no glue or nails are used. Historic sources name a kind of wood called Dhusi or Chasi, meaning in Newari "as strong as a tiger". Today mainly agarth, chapa & sal wood is used, as there is plenty in and around the valley. Wood has been the traditional building material in the Valley not only used to form the heavy framework, which forms the essential part of the structure but beams, struts, pillars and roof supports. All the available wood surfaces on the buildings, including doors, windows, cornices, lintels and brackets are formed and carved into decorative patterns of geometrical, floral, animal and human forms.

Depicting curling horned and star patterns, this wedding textile from the Hazara district of Pakistan, in the province of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa (formerly known as NWFP) is densely embroidered in silk floss thread on a black cotton ground. It measures 70 x 77.5 cm and is in excellent condition. The motifs are curvilinear and embroidered in dark red in a combination of satin stitch and long and short stitch, outlined with a top stitch of golden silk floss. Estimated age: late 20th century.

This vintage Turkmen Tekke child's bib or collar is hand-embroidered in silk thread with cotton tassels. Shoulder to shoulder measures 19" and the front is 9 1/2" with a 3" fringe. The reverse is a printed cotton fabric and the embroidery technique features the traditional gul-i-badam ("almond flower") motif which is generally found only on Turkmen embroideries from Afghanistan. Condition is excellent and its estimated age is late 20th century.

This is a dowry purse from Afghanistan, measuring 19.5 cm x 29 when open, 16 x 19.5 when closed. The embroidery technique is silk thread in button stitch with herringbone stitch and long and short stitch. Embroidered on a silk background with mica mirrors, a few of them missing, the purse is otherwise in good condition for its age (mid to late 20th century).

This old patchwork quilt from Pakistan is known as a "rilhi" (from the Urdu word "ralanna", to mix or join). The embroidery is dense, mainly in buttonhole, satin and ladder stitch with some couching, and embellished with sequins, pompoms, mirrors and metallic thread. These quilts play a popular role in the outdoor festivals all over Sindh province that take place to commemorate the Sufi poets and saints ("urs"). This textile measures 28.5 x 54 inches (72.4 x 137.2 cm) and shows wear consistent with its age (mid to late 20th century).

A pair of vintage hand-embroidered make-up bags made by Pashtun nomads from Katawaz, located in Ghazni province, Afghanistan. Each bag is hand-embroidered in silk thread in a tight ladder stitch on a silk background, with some Bukhara stitching where the threads are held down with separate thread in a couching technique, and one bag featuring some small mirrorwork. One of the bags is lined with printed cotton fabric, probably from Russia. Both bags are estimated to date to the mid 20th century. See Bernard Dupaigne's book (Afghan Embroidery © 1996 Ferozsons p. 27) for similar make-up bags. Condition of each bag is excellent, with no flaws nor stains.