Catalog: Vintage Arts: Regional Art: Asian (258)

This lovely cap made by Uzbek women residing in northern Afghanistan measures 21 cm in diameter and 59.5 in circumference. Silk thread in satin stitch on a cotton muslin ground with silk and cotton ikat strips on the dome. Condition is excellent. Estimated age: mid 20th century.

Measuring 25.2 x 30 cm, this embroidered cloth from Jaghori in Ghazni province was made by Hazara women. It depicts in vibrant colors four eight-pointed stars and triangular hooked motifs down the center. The stitching is a combination of satin, herringbone and cross stitch, in silk thread. Embroidery is an important winter activity for the women of central Afghanistan, a mountainous region where villages can be isolated by snow for months. This textile is in perfect condition, and its estimated age is early to mid 20th century.

This vintage child's cap from Herat, Afghanistan measures 17 cm in diameter, 50 cm in circumference. It features satin stitch, herringbone stitch and ladder stitch in cotton thread. Condition: Near excellent, only two tiny sections of missing red thread around the rim (see photos). Estimated age: early to mid 20th century.

This is a yurt ornament made by Lakai Uzbeks living in the northern region of Afghanistan. It is estimated to date to the mid to late 20th century and is in excellent condition. The embroidery is satin stitch in silk thread forming traditional geometric designs with a cotton paisley lining on the reverse. The textile measures 11.8 x 86.5 cm including the elaborate tassels and crown knots.

This small textile features 25 small mirrors ("shisha") and measures 8.2 x 17.8 cm. There are supposed to be 26 mirrors but one of them is missing, either intentionally or not. Silk and metallic thread on cotton, densely embroidered throughout, with very fine button hole stitching and Romanian couching technique in the center. Mid to late 20th century. Condition is excellent.

Measuring 46 x 47 cm this textile forms the bodice of a Hazarajat nomad's shirt (kamiz). The embroidery is an intricate combination of satin stitch (or straight stitch) and an extremely finely worked ladder stitch worked by hand on an ivory linen background. Mirrors ("shisha") are strategically placed to ward off the evil spirits ("djinn"). Estimated age: early to mid 20th century. Condition is excellent.

This child's cap from Indus Kohistan, Pakistan is dated to the mid 20th century and measures 7 cm in diameter, 42 cm in circumference. Kohistan in Persian means "land of mountains" and has two distinct meanings in Pakistan. In Persian "koh" means "peak" and "istaan" means "land of". Kohistan is one of the most isolated and the most deprived districts, not only in Hazara Division but in the entire Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province of Pakistan. This child's cap shows the typical decorative amulets of Indus Kohistan embroidery, with coiled zippers, buttons, plastic poppers and beads. The embroidery work is exceptionally fine cross stitch (petit point) and satin stitch in silk thread and acrylic thread on black cotton. Condition of the cap is excellent.

With three inner compartments this vintage wallet from Afghanistan dates to the mid 20th century and is lined with red printed cotton and heavily decorated with woven blue seed beads which act as charms to avert evil from the wearer. Silk thread is intricately worked in ladder stitch forming volute motifs accented with gold metallic braiding on an ivory linen background. Condition is excellent.

This is a museum quality embroidered wallet from Katawaz in Ghazni province, Afghanistan. The embroidery technique is called couching, where the gold metallic threads are meticulously laid down in neat parallel rows, and then fastened down at regular intervals with tiny orange threads...a very labor-intensive embroidery technique that cannot be accomplished with a sewing machine. Mirrors are strategically placed to ward off the evil eye ("djinn") and embellished with blue seed beads. The interior features two pockets and is lined with a printed cotton cloth from Russia. Blue seed beads frame the outer edges. The condition is very good with some minor wear to be expected of a textile this age. The piece measures 14 cm x 27 cm when fully elongated, 11.5 x 14 cm when closed. Estimated age: mid 20th century.

This Uzbek embroidery dating from the early to mid 20th century is embroidered on a mauve linen background. Two embroidered bands are joined together in exceptionally fine cross stitch and satin stitch to form interlocking geometric motifs and chevrons in silk thread. Condition is excellent. 15.5 x 34.5 cm.

A woman's cap from Bamiyan province, circa mid 20th century. Satin stitch in pink, white and yellow silk thread embroidered on green cotton, depicting stylized flowers resembling chrysanthemums. Diameter: 20 cm. Circumference: 52.5 cm. Condition: Excellent.

Measuring 14 x 17 cm, this tobacco pouch from Indus Kohistan is embroidered in extremely fine brick stitch, cross stitch and satin stitch in silk thread. The beaded tassled edges are typical of the embroidery of this remote region of Pakistan. Condition is excellent, estimated age mid to late 20th century.

This embroidered panel was hand-embroidered by Pashtun women from southern Afghanistan. It measures 23 x 25 cm and is embroidered in silk thread on a double cotton background. The embroidery technique is an intricate ladder stitch, the trademark of Pashtun embroidery. Estimated age: late 20th century. Condition is excellent.

Uzbek hats such as this one are commonly worn in the northern areas of Afghanistan, particularly in and around Balkh and Mazar-i-Sharif. This child's hat is a quilted cotton with hand-embroidered silk thread in soft pink, rust, turquoise, salmon and teal. Areas of wear consistent with its age (mid-late 20th century). Circumference: 20 inches; diameter: 7 inches. Height: 2 1/4 inches.

The stellar designs on this envelope-shaped purse is characteristic of the Pashtun embroidery from Katawaz province, renowned for its dense and meticulously worked ladder stitch. This small purse measures 14 x 26.5 cm when opened, 10 x 14.5 cm when closed. The silk embroidery is expertly worked on a deep purple silk ground, framed with blue glass seed beads, the interior lined in red printed cotton. Metallic thread is used as a decorative contrast to wonderful effect with buttonhole stitching, mirrors (shisha) and ladder stitch as accents. There is some fraying on the face to be expected from a piece dating to the mid 20th century.

The Hazara embroidery of central Afghanistan is extremely fine, worked typically in brick stitch in diamond motifs surrounded by hooked diamonds. This purse was probably used to store a precious object such as the soil or holy stone brought from the holy city of Kerbala. This purse measures 13 x 22.5 cm when open, 9.6 x 13 cm when closed. Silk thread embroidered in brick stitch on cotton. Condition is excellent, and its estimated age is mid to late 20th century.

Measuring 27 x 29 cm, this embroidery from Afghanistan is composed of mostly satin stitch in silk thread. The continuous supplementary-weft technique makes this textile reversible and either face may be used as the front. Condition: Excellent, no stains, no flaws of any kind.

This Uzbek textile measures 8.2 cm x 52 cm, 8.2 cm x 89 cm with the string. Depicting rosettes in long and short stitch and cross stitch in silk thread on a black cotton ground, this Uzbek puttee dates from the mid 20th century and is in excellent condition. Puttees are a strip of cloth wound spirally around the leg from ankle to knee.