Catalog: Vintage Arts: Regional Art (266)

Traditionally the balisht was intended as a grain sack but its secondary use was that of a cushion. This one measures 33 x 66 cm and has a soft knotted and piled face and a wonderful unique kilim flat woven back which is decorated with colorful bands of chevron patterns mixed with narrow black and white geometrical patterns. The opening of the bag is at the top and the horse hair loops around the mouth of the bag were used for fastening the stuff inside the balisht. The surface has a lustrous sheen due to the soft, fine wool of the pile which is closely woven, giving a play of colors and velvety appearance unsurpassed by other nomadic rugs. Condition is excellent. Mid to late 20th century.

This is a densely beaded purse made by Pashtun nomadic women from Afghanistan depicting the ancient tree of life motif. It measures 12 x 19.5 cm and is in excellent condition. The beaded tassels are attached by cords made of metallic thread. The inside is lined with purple polyester fabric and features three pockets. The embroidery technique is a tightly worked ladder stitch accented with metallic braided trim. Estimated age mid to late 20th century.

Measuring 18.5 x 28 cm when opened and 18.5 x 19.5 cm when closed, this pair of purses are from Katawaz in Paktika province, Afghanistan. The embroidery technique is an intricate ladder stitch depicting whirling solar motifs combined with button hole stitches around the mirrors ("shisha"). The purses also feature beaded discs ("gul-i-peron") intended to ward off the evil eye - the same function performed by the mirrors. Silk thread on a green silk background. Condition excellent. Estimated age mid 20th century.

This hand-embroidered purse was made by Pashtun nomadic women of Katawaz in Ghazni province and measures 15.5 x 25.5 cm. The embroidery designs are a combination of eight-pointed stars and abstract wave and spiral motifs in fine ladder stitch, neatly arranged in a series of rectangular panels with gold braiding. Mirrors ("shisha") are expertly fastened down in an intricate ladder stitch and embellished with gold thread executed in Romanian couching (pokhtaduzi), where the small holding stitches are staggered across the length of the gold thread. The blue and white seed beads on tiny silk tassels frame the edges of the purse, not only for decorative effect but also to avert evil from the wearer. The purse is estimated to the date to the mid 20th century and is in perfect condition. It features two pockets lined with printed cotton fabric. Silk thread on a silk background.

This child's waistcoat was made in Kohistan which is located along the Karakoram Highway and on the Indus river in Pakistan. The textile measures 26 x 32 x 34 cm and is embroidered in acrylic thread on a fine black linen background. Silver amulets are incorporated into the textile to repel the evil eye ("djinn") and various coins adorn the bottom edge of the vest. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century. Condition is excellent.

This is a museum quality embroidered wallet from Katawaz in Ghazni province, Afghanistan. The embroidery technique is called couching, where the gold metallic threads are meticulously laid down in neat parallel rows, and then fastened down at regular intervals with tiny orange threads...a very labor-intensive embroidery technique that cannot be accomplished with a sewing machine. Mirrors are strategically placed to ward off the evil eye ("djinn") and embellished with blue seed beads. The interior features two pockets and is lined with a printed cotton cloth from Russia. Blue seed beads frame the outer edges. The condition is very good with some minor wear to be expected of a textile this age. The piece measures 14 cm x 27 cm when fully elongated, 11.5 x 14 cm when closed. Estimated age: mid 20th century.

This is a lady's purse from Bamiyan, Afghanistan, finely embroidered in silk thread. The Hazara excel in making very intricate geometric design embroideries executed in brick stitch. This purse has also some chain stitch and couching stich ("basma") on the reverse, which features three separate pockets. Condition is good with some staining on the front consistent with its age (mid to late 20th century). The purse measures 10.9 x 23.6 cm.

Measuring 46 x 47 cm this textile forms the bodice of a Hazarajat nomad's shirt (kamiz). The embroidery is an intricate combination of satin stitch (or straight stitch) and an extremely finely worked ladder stitch worked by hand on an ivory linen background. Mirrors ("shisha") are strategically placed to ward off the evil spirits ("djinn"). Estimated age: early to mid 20th century. Condition is excellent.

This is a woman's shift ("kurta") from Swat Valley, Pakistan. It measures 125 cm from one sleeve extended to the other; the gusset measures 24 cm; the bust 57 cm. From top shoulder to bottom hem it measures 91 cm. The sleeve opening is 17 cm. The embroidery technique is pink and red floss silk on indigo-dyed and black cotton depicting geometric shapes typical of the embroidery of the Swat Valley. Condition of this textile is excellent. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century.

Measuring 13 1/2 x 19 1/4 inches this textile from Maqur district in Ghazni province is embroidered in silk thread on a fine linen background. The textile was intended to be made into a man or a woman's shirt. There is only one small brown stain, otherwise its condition is nearly perfect. Estimated age: mid 20th century. The embroidery technique is an extremely detailed ladder stitch.

This child's hat from the remote valleys of Indus Kohistan measures 15 cm in diameter and 45 cm in circumference. Embroidered in an extremely fine tent stitch (petit point) and ladder stitch in acrylic thread, it features a beaded tassel and a horned amulet made of the teeth of a musk deer, believed to repel evil spirits. The hat is estimated to date to the mid or late 20th century and is in excellent condition.

Living in the remote valleys along the upper Indus river, the women of Kohistan district in Pakistan may spend several long winter months making a dress ("jumlo") such as this one which is lavishly embroidered in tent stitch (petit point) and satin stitch in silk thread on a black cotton cloth ground. It features a full skirt with multiple inserted triangular panels (over 300) and is embellished with beads, buttons, metal trinkets and amulets. These kinds of trinkets are used extensively in Kohistani embroidery. In addition to providing decoration, they act as charms to avert evil from the wearer. This dress measures 98 x 210 cm with a sleeve opening of 36.8 cm. Estimated age: mid 20th century. Condition is excellent.

This Turkman Yomut's child's cap from Herat measures 17.8 cm in diameter and 49.5 cm in circumference, 5.5 cm in height. It is estimated to date to the mid 20th century and is in excellent condition. The embroidery technique is cotton thread in a tightly worked satin stitch on a light beige cotton ground.

This is a woman's shawl from Waziristan in deep magenta, yellow and black, with a woven cotton field on the edges and silk thread throughout. It measures 123 cm in width and 249.9 cm in length. Estimated age early to mid 20th century. Waziristan is entirely populated by ethnic Pashtuns and is named after the Wazir tribe. Condition is good, some staining to be expected from normal wear.

Embroidered in cotton and acrylic thread on a light blue cotton background with sequins and white bead fringing, this child's hat from Indus Kohistan ("Land of mountains") in Pakistan measures: circumference: 50 inches (127 cm); diameter: 6 inches (15.24 cm). Condition is excellent. Estimated age: mid 20th century. The peak of the crown is achieved with wood gathered from the local forests, expertly woven to make the crown. Embroidery technique is a combination of cross stitch, tent stitch and satin stitch in both acrylic and cotton thread.

This is a child's cap made by Uzbeks living in northern Afghanistan, probably in Sar-i-pul province. It is in excellent condition and dates to the mid 20th century. Diameter is 7" (17.8 cm) and the circumference is 20 1/4" (51.4 cm). Silk thread and metallic braid on cotton.

This is a Hazara woman's hat from Bamiyan province in central Afghanistan. Circumference: 51.5 cm; Diameter: 18 cm. The embroidery technique is satin stitch in pink and yellow silk thread on a green polyester ground. Its condition is excellent given its age (mid 20th century). No spots, bleeding, etc.

Due to its strategic location on the ancient Silk Road, the area of Indus Kohistan on the Indus River has absorbed many influences from East and West. This young child's helmet ("khohl") from Indus Kohistan is topped with a beaded tassel, reminiscent of the Phrygian caps of antiquity. Such hats are everyday wear for the small children of the region, one of the most impoverished in all of Pakistan. This child's cap measures 17 inches in circumference and 6 1/2 inches in diameter. Buttons, white beads and metal ornaments adorn the cap, intended to ward off evil spirits ("djinn"). The embroidery is satin stitch and straight stitch in acrylic and metallic thread on black cotton. It is in excellent condition given its age (late 20th century). The inside and top is lined with printed fabric.

Uzbek hats such as this one are commonly worn in the northern areas of Afghanistan, particularly in and around Balkh and Mazar-i-Sharif. This child's hat is a quilted cotton with hand-embroidered silk thread in soft pink, rust, turquoise, salmon and teal. Areas of wear consistent with its age (mid-late 20th century). Circumference: 20 inches; diameter: 7 inches. Height: 2 1/4 inches.

This is a child's helmet ("khohl") from Kohistan, an isolated mountainous region of northern Pakistan located on the river Indus. Metal zippers, white beaded fringes, silver pendants and mirrored discs all serve to guard against the djinn, or evil spirits. The helmet has a high peaked crown supported by inserted sticks of wood, and topped with a beaded tassel. The helmet falls into a V-shape over the shoulders and back, measuring 62 cm from the tassel to the shawl base. Circumference: 42 cm. Diameter: 12.5 cm. The embroidery technique is cross stitch and a very fine tent stitch in both cotton and acrylic thread on black cotton, depicting traditional tree of life and chevron motifs. For a parallel item refer to Colours of the Indus by N. Askari and R. Crill page 124 Fig. 196. Estimated age: late 20th century. It is in excellent condition.

Measuring 5 x 17 inches (12.7 cm x 43.18 cm), this pair of embroidered bands from Afghanistan are dated to the late 20th century and are in good condition with one minor stain on one edge. Cobalt blue and vivid pink are the main colors executed in polyester thread in satin stitch.

This is a shepherd's wool coat from upper Chitral or Nuristan, depicting the branched "ram's horn" and tree of life designs reminiscent of the woollen garments and felts of central Asia. The mountainous area of Chitral adjoins the province of Nuristan in Afghanistan, a historical and geographic starting point for continuous trade routes into central Asia. The coat dates to either the mid or late 20th century and is in excellent condition given its age. The embroidery technique is chain stitch in woollen thread. It measures 35" (90 cm) across, and 32" (81 cm) in length. The sleeve openings are 10" (25 cm). The bust measures 20" (51 cm). There is an inner flap behind the front opening, and a gap under the arm instead of a gusset.

A Hazara woman's hat from Bamiyan province, Afghanistan, hand-embroidered in silk thread on a cotton ground depicting rosettes in yellow, green, blue, pink and turquoise. Long and short stitch and some herringbone stitch in silk thread. Diameter: 21 cm, circumference: 55.5 cm. The hat is in excellent condition. Estimated age mid 20th century.

This lovely child's hat was hand-embroidered by women of Kohistan, an area of lush green forests and valleys located on the river Indus. The embroidery technique is a fine cross stitch and brick stitch in acrylic thread with white beads and buttons. Diameter: 7.5 inches, circumference: 18 inches. Condition: Excellent. Estimated age: late 20th century. The hat size indicates it was made for an infant or toddler.

Measuring 63 x 88 inches (160 x 224 cm), this hand-embroidered wedding shawl from the remote region of Indus Kohistan in northeast Pakistan is estimated to date to the mid or late 20th century. Worked in extremely fine cross stitch and satin stitch in silk thread in interlocking geometric motifs and embellished with beaded edges, a textile such as this may take up to six months to produce. This shawl is embroidered on a black cotton ground and is in excellent condition.

This old Uzbek napramach (also known as a mafrash among the Turkmen tribes) is from northern Afghanistan and is embroidered in silk thread on a grey plainweave cotton background. The medallion and geometric motifs reflect the Greek artistic legacy which influenced the urban weaving workshops of Bactria, a satrap of Alexander the Great's eastern empire. Similar motifs are found in ancient Greek vase designs and also in Chinese neolithic pottery. This textile measures 44 x 100 cm with some considerable fraying consistent with its age (mid 20th century). The embroidery technique is a very fine ladder stitch combined with herringbone stitch. The background lining is a blue printed fabric from Russia. Napramach is the Uzbek word for small bag - such nomadic textiles are traditionally utilized by nomadic women to store their personal belongings.

This boy's coat resembles the famous green chapan worn by Hamid Karzai, the current President of Afghanistan. These coats are worn in Central Asia including Uzbekistan, Afghanistan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, etc. This chapan is woven in silk with a blue cotton shibori inside lining in plain weave, with the inside lapel in brown cotton corduroy. It measures 92.5 cm across the top, from sleeve end to sleeve end. The sleeve opening measures 21 cm. From the shoulder hem to the bottom hem the coat measures 61 cm. The underarm gussets measure 4 cm. Condition of this textile is excellent. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century.

This textile is from Jaghori in central Afghanistan. It measures 25 x 26 centimeters and is in excellent condition. It is embroidered in cross stitch in silk thread and tightly worked into an overall composition that is very typical of the embroidery from this area. Estimated age: mid 20th century. Condition: Excellent.

This child's waistcoat is from Indus Kohistan, located in the province of Pakistan formerly known as the North-West Frontier Province (NWFP), recently re-named Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. It is a superb piece, embroidered on black cotton fabric and embellished with coins, multicolored glass seed beads and pearly buttons. The vest measures 32 cm by 37 cm with the neck yoke measuring 11 cm. It is estimated to date to the middle to late 20th century. The embroidery is extremely fine, mainly cross and satin stitch in silk thread, with some back stitch forming diamond and chevron patterns. The dominant color is red, with emerald green, orange, yellow and royal blue. The triangular shape at the bottom of each beaded tassel on the front of the vest are called "doga" and have a long tradition of use as talismans in central Asia and other ancient cultures. The condition of the waistcoat is excellent with no missing beads and no damage whatsoever. Kohistan literally means "Hilly Country" and refers to the sub-6000 meter peaks enclosing this remote canyon as well as those peaks in upper Swat and lower Dir.

This is a vintage child's front from Paktia province in eastern Afghanistan. It measures 25 x 28 cm and is densely embroidered in silk thread in a tightly worked ladder stitch. The sides, shoulder and waist straps are executed in Bukhara stitching where the metallic threads are carefully laid in parallel and then meticulously fastened down with a cotton thread. This textile is estimated to date to the mid 20th century and is in excellent condition.

Worked in an intriguing combination of long and short stitch and ladder stitch on a fine cotton muslin ground, this Uzbek cushion cover from northern Afghanistan measures 39 x 78 cm and is dated to the mid 20th century. The central field of large rosettes and floral motifs, accented with leaves and smaller rosettes, is executed in silk thread in vivid primary colors in Bukhara couching to evoke the image of a garden in bloom. Condition is excellent.

Measuring 29 x 37 cm this child's waistcoat is from Indus Kohistan. Condition is excellent, and it dates to the mid 20th century. The embroidery technique is straight stitch in silk thread on a black cotton background, embellished with white glass beads and buttons. Kohistan has a rich local history as a crossroads between Central, South and Southwestern Asia. Predominantly inhabited by Dardic and Pashtun tribes since ancient times, Kohistan has been invaded and contested by Persians, Greeks, Scythians, Kushans, Turks, Mughals, and the British.

This textile from Afghanistan measures 24 x 27 cm and is dated to the mid 20th century. The highlights of this textile are the four mirrors ("shisha") which are made of mirror glass and used as an amulet to ward off the evil eye. The embroidery is silk thread on a plum cotton ground, in straight stitch, ladder stitch and Holbein stitch, all combined in an effective way to make the overall composition. The Mangal are one of the largest and perhaps the most powerful and influential Pashtun tribes, residing in southeastern Paktia and adjacent Khost provinces of Afghanistan. The name Mangal is derived from the Sanskrit name for the planet Mars. The Mangal are known for their independent nature, and have a long history of resisting British forces, central and provincial governments, Soviet army, and even fellow Pashtun Taliban militia. Condition of this textile is excellent. The embroidery is all made by hand, not by machine.

Straddling both sides of the Durand Line, the Mangal tribe are one of the more influential Pashtun tribes. This Mangal textile measures 24.6 x 28 cm and is in excellent condition. Curvilinear and geometric motifs are excecuted in straight stitch, Holbein stitch, and a tightly worked ladder stitch on a plum polyester ground. Estimated age: mid 20th century. The Mangal reside primarily in southeastern Paktia and adjacent Khost provinces of Afghanistan. The name "Mangal" is derived from the Sanskrit name for the planet Mars. The Mangal are known for their independent nature and have a long history of resisting British forces, central and provincial governments, Soviet army, and even fellow Pashtun Taliban militia.

This Pashtun textile measures 35 x 35 cm and is embroidered in silk thread on a purple polyester ground. Two mirrors are sewn on as accents in each of the two 14-pointed stars. The embroidery technique is a tightly worked ladder stitch, typical of the embroidery of Katawaz. Condition: Excellent. Estimated age: mid 20th century.

Straddling both sides of the Durand Line, the Mangal tribe are an influential Pashtun tribe. This Mangal child's dress front features the ubiquitous "gul-i-peron" discs incorporating blue glass beads and mirrors on a leather ground, a talisman that protects the young wearer against the evil eye. Satin stitch, herringbone stitch, a tightly worked ladder stitch and Bukhara stitching are the elements that make this composition highly effective. The textile measures 21 x 23 cm and is in good condition overall except for some fraying on the orange silk section on the front of the piece. The three discs measure 5.5 cm in diameter. Estimated age: mid 20th century. Silk and metallic thread on cotton.