Catalog: Archives: Estate Jewelry (467)

Light and airy this vintage Hector Aguilar foliate brooch looks almost like an anatomical leaf study in fine, .940 silver. I think it is a fern leaf that is presented in its absolutely bare essentials yet the stem's playful curve and the graduated lessening of the pin's width as it proceeds from base to leaf tip impart a pleasantly deceiving illusion of sculpturality. Easy to wear, soothing on the eye, perfect for the time when trees put on their fall colors...

There is not one form of jewelry in which the Los Castillo did not excel yet I think their big, bold repousse brooches are simply above and beyond! The example I am presenting here, most probably an early creation if design numbers are indeed good indicators of when during the workshop's life a specific idea was transformed into jewelry, reflects the Egyptian Revival of the Deco period...

The smaller version of this particular design, this set of vintage Margot de Taxco earrings reminds me of elaborate woven baskets. The repoussage here is very sculptural and the beading in combination with the wonderful patina the set has acquired over the years accentuates its three-dimensional appeal. Eye-catching without being visually overwhelming, it is easy to wear and will hold its own whatever the occasion you chose it for...

In the style closely associated with Enrique Ledesma yet signed by one of his contemporary Taxco maestros this stunning sterling silver necklace and earrings set epitomizes the slick modernism of Mexico’s mid-century. Designs in this genre capitalize on the stark contrast between highly polished, reflective silver and dark, heavily oxidized surfaces and the visual drama that it creates...

Sigi Pineda rings don't come up very often and I am very happy to present here an example out of his "boomerang" line. Fashioned in the so-called by pass style, this is a slick, mod piece, its two wings adorned with bezel set turquoise cabs. Fantastic patina and excellent vintage condition make this an absolute must-have for collectors of Mexican jewelry and lovers of mod design alike...

Perfectly carved obsidian teardrops with shimmering golden depths and high purity silver combine in this modernist Antonio Pineda set of dangle earrings. There is an innate elegance in the way the silver embraces the volcanic glass, like slender flames of a hot fire emanating from black coals. In the darkness, you only see the silver; in the light it is only the obsidian that catches the eye. Antonio at one of his best moments, I believe...

An early Taxco maestro, Manuel Altamirano worked for both Aguilar and Valentin Vidaurreta. With the former, he shares what has come to be known as the "armadillo" parure, out of which you can see here the quite impressive belt buckle. Evocative of the “armor plates” covering the body of the namesake creatures, the buckle's links are graduated in size and adorned with short, flat-topped round appliques...

Gerardo Lopez is one of my favorite Taxco maestros. I believe his talent and workmanship to have been of the same caliber as that of his more famous contemporaries and I am always on the look out for his jewelry. Based on his work, I believe that he must have worked for at least the Los Castillo and/or Margot de Taxco and his prowess in the art of repoussage supports the hypothesis...

Most probably designed by Salvador Teran when he worked for his cousins, the Los Castillo, this pair of Mexican modernist silver dangle earrings is not an easy set to find. Though the Los Castillo did not experiment as much in modernism as some other Taxco maestros and workshops they do count among their creations some amazing examples thanks to Teran's genius...

With delicately carved features, this silver and tiger’s eye Egyptian Revival “Cleopatra” bolo tie is a small work of art that came out of the Los Ballesteros workshop. One of the best - and definitely the most persistent - Taxco talleres involved in the creation of exquisite “mask” jewelry, the Los Ballesteros used an array of semi-precious and hard- stones to create serene, out-of-this-world effigies for brooches, rings, bracelets and pendants...

One of Taxco's early maestros, Jose Luis Flores worked for Aguilar as well as for Emma and Miguel Melendez. Carefully crafted and meticulously finished, his jewelry is often based on creations by his more renowned colleagues yet he can be quite creative and original himself. In my opinion, he is at his best within the realm of modernist design and I believe that the bracelet presented here attests to that...

Big and beautifully aged this floral sterling silver Hector Aguilar brooch is representative of the 1940s' love affair with all motifs from nature. The flower is here layered, with deep hand-chased details in the petals and foliage, a strong curving stem and cluster of small beads right at its center. I love the way the bloom is wide open, its face turned to the sun, taking in light and heat and turning it to color, aromas and beauty for our visual enjoyment...

Big, beautifully crafted and early as is indicated by the low design number this Deco Los Castillo silver brooch is wrought en repoussage in what seems to have been a favored motif among Mexican silversmiths and designers at the time. Fern leaves inspired rings, clamper bracelets, brooches and necklaces and of course, earrings. The design comes in variations enough to ensure that everybody will find a piece that appeals to them. The specific version, however, I have never encountered before...

I promised yesterday that I had two more of those Sigi Pineda surrealist figures dangle earring sets to present and here is the second pair. There is something as endearing as it is quirky about the specific design line - I am not sure what Sigi was into when he created these - but I find them all weirdly irresistible. Overlay and oxidation are used here too to convey the human form, its hands crossed on the chest, turning a minimalist profile away from the onlooker. What a concept! Measuring ...

The links in this Deco Mexican silver necklace by Victoria , to the world Ana Maria Nunez de Brilanti, are inspired by cactus flowers and hand-wrought in sterling silver sheet with good thickness. One of my favorite designs by her, it was available in at least two different widths and the example at hand is the narrower, easier to wear version no matter what the occasion or the ... weather is. Deeply chased and oxidized lines form the stylized petals and each flower is centered by five tiny litt...

Question marks, whether straight or inverted, seem to have provided a fun, tongue-in-cheeck motif when Taxco maestros were designing earrings. I have seen them hanging off repousse semi-spheres, studded with turquoise cabs and even having cascabeles themselves. Yet this big, bold and beautiful set goes above and beyond its peers. Sculptural repoussage, tiny beading accents and oxidation combine here with gorgeous bezel-set amethyst cabs in a curvaceous, sexy pair of Mexican Deco earrings. Yet it...

A fabulous example of late Deco Portuguese jewelry this hinged "bangle" is signed by Topazio, the country's foremost manufacturer of silver hollowware and jewelry. Wrought in .833 silver, its two "wings" are made up of curved panels with alternating scrolled niello and figural decoration. This specific design is known as "monuments of Portugal", the Belem Tower and the National Pantheon being among the country's architectural treasures portrayed here. The bracelet has an inner circumference of 7...

The last example of a small Los Castillo "onix negro" jewelry collection I acquired a little time ago, this mod bracelet is perfect for the medium to smaller wrist. Its thick links remind me of mahjong tiles and I am captivated by their minimalist geometry. Easy to wear yet definitely a bracelet whose weight feels warm and familiar when you have it on - the perfect accessory to add that little bit of style to make it special. Measuring 6 3/8" long (wearable) by 1/2" wide it weighs 50.0 grams. It...