Catalog: Archives: Estate Jewelry (467)

One of the few female designers we know of in Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance and a gifted modernist at that, Erika Hult de Corral created jewelry that attracts the eye and captures one's imagination. I am particularly fond of her "moonscape" designs that touch upon biomorphic brutalism, if you allow me the combination, yet the sense of unimpeded, fluid motion and the abstraction present in this particular bracelet reflect, in my opinion, one of her best moments...

One of the few female Taxco designers Erika Hult de Corral studied in Paris and worked for both Ledesma and Sigi Pineda before opening her own workshop. The ring at hand is, I believe, an original Sigi creation probably from the time that de Corral was working in his taller. Its fluid, mod lines and the big chrysoprase stone centering it draw the eye immediately and hold it captive effortlessly. Currently a sz 6 (yet resizable) its face is 1 1/8″ by 13/16″ and it weighs 15.5 grams...

A very rare design to find in the form of a bracelet the "crouching man" was originally designed by Taxco's foremost modernist, Salvador Teran, and in my opinion, it is one of the most successful re-interpetations of an ancient motif within the design vernacular of the 1950s-60s. The fact that it's so difficult to find with Teran's signature drives prices high up and makes examples by different makers sought after as well...

Quite impressive with its big, variegated agate cabochon - I believe this is actually moss agate - and extremely rare this is a Mexican ring with strong presence by Enrique Ledesma, one of Taxco's foremost modernist silversmiths. I love the asymmetrical setting - it creates a feeling of continuous flow and movement that accentuates the earthiness of the agate - and the fantastic way that Ledesma has of combining metal and stone. The ring bears the Eagle 60 assay mark, which in Bille Houga...

Set in a raised bezel on a hand-hammered sterling platform the “mask” in this vintage Carmen Beckmann brooch is carved out of dyed calcite, often - and mistakenly - referred to as “jade”. Oxidation and a geometric glyph applique add complexity to the design and the portrait’s minimalist rendition brings to mind the more austere of ancient artifacts unearthed from the Mexican soil...

A rather rare, early Cecilia bracelet in the style of Matilde Poulat with a large central curved panel featuring repousse doves above a stylized basket with flowers. Jewel-encrusted with channel set turquoise cabs and corals in bezels it also has a lozenge amethyst between the two birds...

Sigi Pineda rings don't come up very often and I am very happy to present here an example out of his "boomerang" line. Fashioned in the so-called by pass style, this is a slick, mod piece, its two wings adorned with bezel set turquoise cabs. Fantastic patina and excellent vintage condition make this an absolute must-have for collectors of Mexican jewelry and lovers of mod design alike...

Part of Margot de Taxco's astrology series, an adorable sterling silver pin for the daring Virgo - gorgeous casting, fantastic patina and a fluid nudity turn this little piece into a small work of art. I could not exaggerate its three-dimensional quality even if I wanted to. Its beguiling curves and the uninterrupted sense of movement in the maiden's body and hair is phenomenal. The brooch measures 1 3/4" tall by 1 1/8" wide and weighs 5.5 grams...

A very difficult design to find, Margot de Taxco's no 5384 is sheer geometry and a celebration of dark, rich oxidation. It is understandable then that I feel fortunate to have come upon the extra-wide hinged bracelet from the parure. Raised sterling bands around the perimeter of the cut-out design lend three-dimensional appeal which is further accentuated by the black surfaces they define...

Wrought in .940 silver and with a big onyx cabochon forming its body, a vintage Hector Aguilar brooch in the shape of a pelican. The combination of repoussage and chasing and the stark contrast between the black depths of the stone and the warmly glowing silver is what makes this piece irresistibly attractive. Measuring 2 3/8" tall by 2 1/8" wide (at its widest) the bird weighs 23.1 grams and is signed with a combination of hallmarks that dates it in the 1953-62 period...

Based in Mexico City Plateria FarFan created some of the most impressive and well-made collar necklaces, many in the multi-row "mesh" style and others in puzzle “Cleopatra style” designs. The necklace presented here is one of the latter, a pretty handsome one at that and a favorite of mine for the comfortable, just-at-home way in lies around the neck...

Difficult to find, especially with its hourglass charm still attached to it, one of Margot's most sought-after, avidly collected, time-themed bracelets. I love the fleshiness of the Roman numerals and the architectural quality of the hourglass charm itself - please not the "beading" that represents the sand in it...

A rather rare name to come up, this is the first Abel J. piece I have ever seen and handled. The maker is listed yet other than hallmarks and the fact that we know their name, I was not able to find anything more about them. Yet the necklace at hand is a piece whose imaginative design and gorgeous material combination should warrant some notoriety for its creator...

The most stunning example of Mozaico Azteca jewelry I have ever seen, this necklace is literally a dream-come-true! There is not one thing about it that I don't love; the color of the stones used is saturated and richly varied; the silver work is substantial - not a flimsy piece, that is for sure; and the way it hugs the neck and sits perfectly in place is beyond description. This is a true choker size necklace, ideal for smaller to medium sizes...

One of Margot's most opulent creations, the mirrored swans necklace is an ode to the art of repoussage and an avidly sought after piece. The example at hand, perfectly finished, with stunning patina and a richness that impresses without feeling pretentious is a comfortable 16 1/2" long (could even be a little more in wearable length due to the dip in between the swans). The mirrored swans part is 4 3/8" wide and has a 2 3/8" drop while the width at the chain is 3/8". The necklace weighs 81.9 ...

One of my favorite "less celebrated" Taxco artists, AE Heart's hallmark (he signs his initials AE in a heart-shaped M) can also be seen on Estela Popowski and Rancho Alegre pieces. I find his work to be masterful and his jewelry, oftentimes based on Margot de Taxco and Los Castillo designs, are always exceptionally well crafted and have very good weight. The "fruity" bracelet offered here is, I believe, his own creation. I have had the whole parure before and am always on the look out for it bec...

One of Margot de Taxco’s most romantic, delicately elegant yet still eye-catching and beautifully made necklaces, the “foliate bow” is characterized by generous micro-beading accented by just the right touch of oxidation. The chain’s riveted links rest perfectly around the neck while the intricately woven central station brings to mind earlier, Old World “lovers’ knot” jewelry. Measuring 16 1/2” long (wearable) with its central station being 2 1/2” wide with a drop of 1” an...

An iconic design for Sigi Pineda, the "boomerang" can be found with tiger's eye, like here, as well as black onyx, obsidian, amethyst and chrysoprase. Contrasting niello-ed against glistening silver surfaces "boomerang" pieces exude a sense of slick, unimpeded movement and the wire-wrapped cabochons bring more color and added texture. An interesting detail about the pair of earrings at hand is that it has "transitional" findings - a combination of screw backs and clips that many find easier to n...