A man's shawl from Waziristan which is part of the Federally Administered Tribal Areas, considered to be outside Pakistan's four provinces. Circa 1920s. The Mangal tribe who inhabit Waziristan actually straddle the border between Pakistan and Afghanistan. This textile is very complex, composed of a black woven cotton field and silk ends, with silk embroidery in between. The combination of black cotton ground and silk is used to vivid effect...

This is a child's cap made by Uzbeks living in northern Afghanistan, probably in Sar-i-pul province. It is in excellent condition and dates to the mid 20th century. Diameter is 7" (17.8 cm) and the circumference is 20 1/4" (51.4 cm). Silk thread and metallic braid on cotton.

This hand-embroidered Uzbek textile from northern Afghanistan measuring 27 x 28 cm is in great condition. Cross stitch in silk thread on a cotton background. Circa mid to late 20th century.

A Baluchi saddle bag ("khurzeen") from the mid to late 20th century, measuring 47 x 109 cm. In wool ground with patterned bands in weft-faced, slit tapestry, half pile and half kilim. Strong plaited goat hair loops are attached which are interlaced when closing. Condition is excellent.

A Hazara woman's hat from Bamiyan province, Afghanistan, hand-embroidered in silk thread on a cotton ground depicting rosettes in yellow, green, blue, pink and turquoise. Long and short stitch and some herringbone stitch in silk thread. Diameter: 21 cm, circumference: 55.5 cm. The hat is in excellent condition. Estimated age mid 20th century.

This little girl's chemise was made by Uzbek women and measures 45 cm across the shoulders, 49 cm from the top to the bottom hem. Silk ikat combined with jajim and silk thread embroidered in long and short stitch. Condition is excellent.

This beautiful textile was made by Pashtun nomadic tribeswomen of Hazarajat. It measures 52 x 65 cm without the fringes (57 x 71 cm including the fringes). Shisha (mirrors) illuminate the textile and are fastened by buttonhole stitches, surrounded by volute designs worked in a very fine ladder stitch in silk thread on a dark purple silk background. The design composition is framed throughout with woven metal-thread braid with blue and white beads edging the textile. Condition: Excellent...

This child's cap from the from the high valleys of Indus Kohistan is dated to the mid-late 20th century and embellished with cowry shells, white beads and metal snaps and trinkets. The embroidery is tent stitch worked in cotton thread, forming interlocking diamond motifs on the crown. Condition: overall good, some fraying. Diameter is 7 inches, circumference 15 1/4 inches.

This textile is from Jaghori in central Afghanistan. It measures 25 x 26 centimeters and is in excellent condition. It is embroidered in cross stitch in silk thread and tightly worked into an overall composition that is very typical of the embroidery from this area. Estimated age: mid 20th century. Condition: Excellent.

Intricately worked ladder stitch embroidered in green silk thread on a fine doubled muslin background, this old textile from Maqur district in Ghazni province in central Afghanistan would have formed the sleeve cuffs for a woman's dress. Spiral and volute motifs are harmoniously joined to form an exuberant unity in composition. This textile measures 40 x 48.5 cm and is dated to the early or mid 20th century. The textile has some significant staining, unsurpising given its age.

A Kuchi dress from Afghanistan from the second half of 20th century. The dress bodice has a front slit with button closure, and dense silk embroidery adorns the bodice, sleeve ends, and bottom hem. The embroidery is mostly satin stitch, with ladder stitch and herringbone stitch on black cotton. The embroidered sleeve bands and bottom embroidered band are 2 inches in width. The printed fabric is cotton, with small turquoise, yellow and red motifs on a black background...

This is a woman's shift ("kurta") from Swat Valley, Pakistan. It measures 125 cm from one sleeve extended to the other; the gusset measures 24 cm; the bust 57 cm. From top shoulder to bottom hem it measures 91 cm. The sleeve opening is 17 cm. The embroidery technique is pink and red floss silk on indigo-dyed and black cotton depicting geometric shapes typical of the embroidery of the Swat Valley. Condition of this textile is excellent. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century.

Due to its strategic location on the ancient Silk Road, the area of Indus Kohistan on the Indus River has absorbed many influences from East and West. This young child's helmet ("khohl") from Indus Kohistan is topped with a beaded tassel, reminiscent of the Phrygian caps of antiquity. Such hats are everyday wear for the small children of the region, one of the most impoverished in all of Pakistan. This child's cap measures 17 inches in circumference and 6 1/2 inches in diameter...

An old Uzbek puttee dating from the 1950s or 1960s. Silk embroidery on an ivory linen ground, embroidered in long and short stitch, the trademark of Uzbek embroidery. Condition is very good, some staining on one side. It measures 8.3 cm x 58 cm (w/o string). The string measures 31 cm. Puttees are a strip of cloth wound spirally around the leg from the ankle to the knee.

This child's dress front in cross stich from central Afghanistan dates to the mid to late 20th century. It measures 11¾ x 18 inches (29.8 x 45.7 cm). Traditional Hazara pieces (the smallest ethnic minority group of Afghanistan), like Pashtun pieces, have a yoke under the neckline from which gathered, long panels of fabric flow. Sleeves are normally wide, and they wear matching cuffed pants underneath...

A child's cap from Indus Kohistan which is part of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa (formerly known as NWFP). Some of the finest embroidery of this region comes from the area between Patan and Komila, where small settlements beside tributaries of the Indus produce embroidered costume and small bags worked in minute cross stitch and tent stitch. This cap with its beaded tassle is very typical of the region in its use of pompoms, buttons, white beading, and incredibly fine petit point stitch in silk thread...

A woman's shawl from Waziristan dated to the early 20th century. Woven black cotton field with silk fringes, and intricate silk embroidery throughout. It measures 49 inches in width, 103.5 inches in length (124.5 cm x 262.9 cm). Condition is excellent, just some minor discolorations to be expected from a textile of this age. Waziristan ("land of the Wazir") is a mountainous region near the Northwest of Pakistan, bordering Afghanistan and covering some 11,585 km (4,473 sq mi)...

An old prayer napkin from Afghanistan, measuring 10 x 11 inches. It features very fine stitching characteristic of Hazara embroideries - satin stitch on a white linen background, in silk threads (yellow, blue, orange, green and red). The embroidery on the reverse side of this textile is exactly identical to the front side. Estimated age: early to mid 20th century. Condition is excellent except for some minor stain on the reverse side, displayed in the last photo.

Measuring 13.5 cm when closed, 30.5 cm when fully elongated, this charming beaded purse from Afghanistan was made by Pashtuns and is in excellent condition given its age (mid 20th century). Blue and white seed beads surround the edges, protecting the wearer from evil. The stitching technique is characteristic of Pashtun embroidery, with intricate ladder stitch and basma stitch, where the silk thread is taken parallel with the metallic thread, fastening it down at regular intervals...

This vintage textile is from Bamiyan province, Afghanistan and measures 25.5 x 26 cm. Embroidered in pastel-colored silk thread on a fine white linen, it depicts in satin stitch the triangular shapes that are typical of Hazara embroidery. The continuous supplementary-weft technique makes this textile reversible and either face may be used as the front. Condition: Excellent (e.g., no tears, holes, stains). Estimated age: probably 1950-1960.

This small Afghanistan textile is embroidered in extremely fine satin stitch with repetitive triangular motifs in silk thread on a silk background. The Hazara are the third largest ethnic group in Afghanistan, inhabiting mostly central Afghanistan (Ghazni and Bamiyan provinces). This piece was probably made during the winter months where the women are commonly cut off from the world for six months out of the year due to the extreme climate...

This child's cap from Indus Kohistan, Pakistan is dated to the mid 20th century and measures 7 cm in diameter, 42 cm in circumference. Kohistan in Persian means "land of mountains" and has two distinct meanings in Pakistan. In Persian "koh" means "peak" and "istaan" means "land of". Kohistan is one of the most isolated and the most deprived districts, not only in Hazara Division but in the entire Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province of Pakistan. This child's cap shows the typical decorative amulets of In...

This attractive hand-embroidered purse from Bamiyan province measures 10.5 x 21 cm when opened, 8 x 10.5 cm when closed. It is embroidered in brick stitch in silk thread of various colors. The motifs are meticulously worked diamond motifs surrounding hooked diamonds, quite typical of traditional Hazara embroidery. The Hazara are the third largest ethnic group in Afghanistan. Age: circa early to mid 20th century. Condition: Very good, two small stains under the button closure (see photos). T...

A pair of embroidered ankle bands from Turkmenistan, measuring 20.3 x 22.9 cm. Embroidery technique is extremely fine herringbone and satin stitch on an indigo silk background. Condition: Excellent. Circa early to mid 20th century.

Living in the mountainous regions of central Afghanistan, the women make these embroideries throughout the cold and harsh winters. This textile measures 25 x 27 cm and is in excellent condition. The embroidery technique is cross stitch in silk thread on an apricot cotton linen background. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century.

Traditional geometric designs embroidered on a plain weave cotton animate this Hazara cloth from Afghanistan measuring 33 x 39 cm. Cross stitch in multicolored silk thread form an interlocking star pattern. Condition of the textile is excellent. Estimated age: late 20th century. The Hazara are the third largest ethnic group in Afghanistan, inhabiting mostly Bamiyan province but also Orugzan and Ghazni provinces.

Mongolian embroidered & hand stitched fabric Wall Hanging, used in the Ger, Ca. early 1900's, 75" x 42"-46" wide, stained some area but all intact.

This wallet from Afghanistan measures 15.5 x 31.5 cm and is embroidered in silk thread on a pink satin ground. The embroidery technique is an intricately worked ladder stitch, with button hole stitches and corded silk tassels for closure. The purse is from Katawaz, in Ghazni province, with two interior pockets. Condition is excellent, estimated age mid to late 20th century.

This child's dress front from Paktya province, Afghanistan measures 24 x 24.5 cm and is embroidered in fine cross stitch in silk thread, depicting eight-pointed stars and amuletic motifs. Condition is excellent. Mid 20th century.

This charming beaded purse is from Bamiyan, Afghanistan and measures 12 x 23.5 cm when opened, 10 x 12.5 cm when closed. Satin stitch, cross stitch and filling stitch in silk thread, depicting stylized floral motifs in vibrant colors. This textile is typical of Hazara embroidery in its dynamic use of color. The outer edges are embellished with pompoms and blue and orange beads, while the inside features Bokhara couching laced with gold thread (zardozi). The purse has two inside pockets lined wi...

A child's shirt front from Ghazni province, circa early to mid 1960s, probably from Jaghori or Katawaz. Densely embroidered in extremely fine brick and satin stitch in silk thread on purple silk, the lozenge patterns are framed by Bokhara couching, where the metallic threads are laid in parallel and then fastened with tiny stitches, forming a relief pattern. Blue beads surround the edges, to protect against the evil eye. The waistbands are equally stunning in detail, embroidered in herringbone ...

A vintage choli from Pakistan, circa late 20th century. Hand embroidered in red and gold metallic thread on black chiffon to form abstract patterns. The choli is lined inside. Condition is excellent.

A hand-embroidered Pashtun nomad purse from Katawaz (Ghazni province) with blue glass beads. Blue beads are considered amulets against the evil eye. Pashtun women, whether settled or nomadic, love rich and beautiful embroideries that shine. Women embroider - for themselves, on their festive costumes and headgear - and for their children and their husbands. Women embroider, not only from pleasure and duty, but equally as a statement of their value and of their love for their husband and childre...

An exceptionally fine embroidered purse from Katawaz (Ghazni province), Afghanistan, circa early to mid 20th century. The embroidery on this piece is basically metallic embroidery on both sides, with mirror stitching and fine metallic couching. The front side is comprised of Bokhara couching, where the thread is taken across the surface for the desired length, then, bringing the needle back to the beginning, it is caught down at regular intervals by small stitches. The process is repeated unti...

This is a dress panel made by Kuchi nomads from Afghanistan, with mirrorwork (shisha) and extensive beadwork. This textile represents the most common form of the amulet, the triangle. Decorative embroideries such as these are used as a protective element in central Asian cultures. The mirrors as shiny objects are incorporated into the embroidery and are believed to avert the evil eye, or reflect and hold its image thus absorbing the destructive powers. The beads trimming this textile also ser...

This cushion cover from Swat Valley measures 45 x 78.5 cm and is in excellent condition. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century. The dark red embroidery depicts the typical ram's horn pattern seen not only in Swati embroideries but also in other Central Asian textiles. This pattern is juxtaposed with the repeating diamond motif - a stylistic feature of Swat and Hazara embroideries - seen here in the white checkered borders done in filling stitch and Holbein stitch. Silk floss thread on black ...

Four eight-pointed stars are the central theme of this gorgeous textile made by Hazara women, dated to the mid 20th century. Hand-embroidered in extremely fine cross stitch in silk thread on a tan cotton linen, it is the workmanship that marvels. The cross stitch on this textile can be more properly appreciated under a loupe. Each of the four eight-pointed stars is echoed by more eight-pointed stars and accented by triangular hooked motifs down the middle of the piece. The Hazara are the third ...

The Kuchi are the nomadic and semi-nomadic people of Afghanistan. This cushion was made from a traditional Kuchi textile and has burgundy velvet on the reverse with cording along the edges. The embroidery is intricate ladder stitch and button hole stitch, with cotton thread and metallic braiding throughout. Condition is great. It measures 44 x 64 cm. Estimated age mid to late 20th century.

Measuring 13 1/2 x 19 1/4 inches this textile from Maqur district in Ghazni province is embroidered in silk thread on a fine linen background. The textile was intended to be made into a man or a woman's shirt. There is only one small brown stain, otherwise its condition is nearly perfect. Estimated age: mid 20th century. The embroidery technique is an extremely detailed ladder stitch.

This is a yurt ornament made by Lakai Uzbeks living in the northern region of Afghanistan. It is estimated to date to the mid to late 20th century and is in excellent condition. The embroidery is satin stitch in silk thread forming traditional geometric designs with a cotton paisley lining on the reverse. The textile measures 11.8 x 86.5 cm including the elaborate tassels and crown knots.

This is a densely beaded purse made by Pashtun nomadic women from Afghanistan depicting the ancient tree of life motif. It measures 12 x 19.5 cm and is in excellent condition. The beaded tassels are attached by cords made of metallic thread. The inside is lined with purple polyester fabric and features three pockets. The embroidery technique is a tightly worked ladder stitch accented with metallic braided trim. Estimated age mid to late 20th century.

A Hazara prayer cloth from Wardak or Bamiyan province, Afghanistan, circa early 20th century. Satin stitch in multicolored silk thread on fine white linen. Squares and triangles are embroidered in complex symmetrical arrangements to form a very balanced, unified composition. Measures 32 x 32 cm. Condition: Very good, a small mend on the perimeter.

This is a tobacco pouch from Indus Kohistan in Pakistan, probably from Kolai or Palas Valley. Circa mid 20th century. It is embroidered in an extremely fine, solidly worked brick stitch in various colored silk threads on a black cotton background. The outer edges of the bag are embellished with beaded tassles. One side of the purse features zigzag motifs, the other, interlocking diamond motifs. The purse also features a little string that tightens the purse at the top and is used to hang the po...

Straddling both sides of the Durand Line, the Mangal tribe are an influential Pashtun tribe. This Mangal child's dress front features the ubiquitous "gul-i-peron" discs incorporating blue glass beads and mirrors on a leather ground, a talisman that protects the young wearer against the evil eye. Satin stitch, herringbone stitch, a tightly worked ladder stitch and Bukhara stitching are the elements that make this composition highly effective. The textile measures 21 x 23 cm and is in good condi...

This Turkman Yomut's child's cap from Herat measures 17.8 cm in diameter and 49.5 cm in circumference, 5.5 cm in height. It is estimated to date to the mid 20th century and is in excellent condition. The embroidery technique is cotton thread in a tightly worked satin stitch on a light beige cotton ground.

A hand-embroidered Hazara prayer cloth, made to protect the prayer stone, with a stylized depiction of the prayer niche, probably from Ghazni or Bamiyan province, circa mid 20th century. This exquisite embroidery on a white linen background depicts the severed hands of Hazrat Abbas, alluding to the battle of Kerbala. Silk thread in bright colors executed in a fine satin stitch and tassles on each of the four corners. These cloths are used in prayer to place the forehead. Condition of this text...

A pair of doilies from Afghanistan, with gul-i-peron discs and extensive beadwork, mirrorwork. They are in excellent condition and measure 19 x 19 cm. Intricate ladder stitch and button hole stitching are the embroidery techniques, plus metal thread and Bukhara stitching. These doilies were made for a woman's dowry and would form part of her trousseau. Estimated age mid to late 20th century.

This small textile features 25 small mirrors ("shisha") and measures 8.2 x 17.8 cm. There are supposed to be 26 mirrors but one of them is missing, either intentionally or not. Silk and metallic thread on cotton, densely embroidered throughout, with very fine button hole stitching and Romanian couching technique in the center. Mid to late 20th century. Condition is excellent.

In the high valleys of Indus Kohistan the children still wear hats such as this one, made of tent stitch, fine cross stitch and metallic amulets to ward off the evil eye. Silk thread on cotton ground, accented with beading, sea shells, pompoms, and metal trinkets. Estimated age mid 20th century. Condition of this hat is excellent. No holes, no fraying, no stains. Diameter is 7 inches, circumference 18 inches.

This is a Hazara woman's hat from Bamiyan province in central Afghanistan. Circumference: 51.5 cm; Diameter: 18 cm. The embroidery technique is satin stitch in pink and yellow silk thread on a green polyester ground. Its condition is excellent given its age (mid 20th century). No spots, bleeding, etc.

Measuring 10¾ inches x 16 inches, this child's dress front is from Jaghori in Ghazni province. Estimated age is mid 20th century. The embroidery is amazingly precise, fine cross stitch in silk thread, while the back is a pink printed fabric probably from Russia. The edges are adorned with metallic Bokhara couching and a gold braid that frames the overall design. The bottom tabs depict rosettes in silk floss in satin stitch on white cotton. Condition of this piece is almost excellent, but ther...

This is a textile piece from Afghanistan, probably from Bamiyan province. It is a child's vest which features very intricate embroidered patterns in bright colors and in cotton floss, in cross stitch. The top is embellished with silver metallic threads and the vest is trimmed with green glass beads on the sides, center and bottom. The back is a purple cotton fabric. The lining on the inside is a blue cotton fabric with diamond motifs. There is an amulet on the front, at the bottom, composed of w...

This is an old pair of sleeve cuffs from Maqur district in Ghazni province, Afghanistan, embroidered on a thin muslin ground. Red, orange, green and bergundy silk threads are embroidered in a very finely worked ladder stitch, forming interlocking volute designs. Small glass mirrors are artfully incorporated into the embroidery. Mirrorwork embroidery is quite popular in parts of India, Pakistan and Afghanistan. Known as "shisha" in the Indian subcontinent where it is thought to have originated,...

A hand-embroidered bag made by Pashtun nomads from Ghazni province (probably Katawaz), Afghanistan. Floral motifs combined with arabesques in herringbone stitch in silk thread on a purple silk background. The Bokhara couching technique is used to maximum effect, where the metallic threads are laid parallel to each other and fastened at regular intervals by tiny red stitches. Blue beads adorn the edges to ward off the evil eye. The interior of the bag is lined in a blue printed fabric. Measu...

Strong geometric shapes densely embroidered in satin stich in vibrant colors animate this Hazara textile from central Afghanistan which is estimated to date to the mid 20th century. Silk thread embroidered on a fine cotton linen ground, the patterns are artfully joined into a robust and dynamic unity. Embroidery is an important winter activity for Hazara women who inhabit mountainous central Afghanistan, including Bamiyan, Oruzgan and Ghazni provinces. The Hazara are Shi'ite Muslims who comprise...

Living in the rough mountainous terrain of eastern Paktika and over the Pakistan border in Waziristan, the women of the Mangali tribe wear these leggings for protection. Loose, baggy trousers are tucked into them, and they are re-used until they wear out. Very thick bergundy silk thread is worked in horizontal rows on the top in cross stitch, and on the lower part in vertical bands of heavy whip stitch. Geometric patterns are superimposed in random coloring. The leggings are lined in purple ...

This saye gosha (or segusha) shows the dynamic use of line and vivid color for which Uzbek Lakai embroidery is famous. Saye gosha are V-shaped hangings used to decorate piles of quilts while in storage during the day in the yurt. The Lakai are an Uzbek tribe who currently live around Kunduz in northern Afghanistan. Originally more widespread, they were also once found in what is now Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. Silk thread in a combination of fine, slanting blanket stitch and double chain stitch o...

A hand-embroidered Uzbek curtain from northern Afghanistan, mid to late 20th century. Silk floss thread on green cotton in long and short stitch, this textile is fully reversible and either side may be used as the face. It measures 84 x 105 cm including the silk fringe. The central rosette is enclosed by borders and surrounded by curved and sinuous patterns in vivid contrasting color. Condition is very good but with some slight fading and a few small dark stains in one corner.

Embroidered purses ("bushkiri") are used by the Baluch for carrying and storing valuables and bridal dowry gifts. This purse from Baluchistan measures 20.3 x 32.5 cm when opened, 19.2 x 20 cm when closed, and is dated to the early to mid 20th century. This densely worked purse features intricate repeating geometric patterns and colors worked in a delicate satin stitch, combined with a meticulously worked interlacing stitch on a fine linen ground. The renowned vibrancy of Baluchi embroidery ca...

This vintage Turkmen Tekke child's bib or collar is hand-embroidered in silk thread with cotton tassels. Shoulder to shoulder measures 19" and the front is 9 1/2" with a 3" fringe. The reverse is a printed cotton fabric and the embroidery technique features the traditional gul-i-badam ("almond flower") motif which is generally found only on Turkmen embroideries from Afghanistan. Condition is excellent and its estimated age is late 20th century.