Catalog (275)

Embroidered in cotton and acrylic thread on a light blue cotton background with sequins and white bead fringing, this child's hat from Indus Kohistan ("Land of mountains") in Pakistan measures: circumference: 50 inches (127 cm); diameter: 6 inches (15.24 cm). Condition is excellent. Estimated age: mid 20th century. The peak of the crown is achieved with wood gathered from the local forests, expertly woven to make the crown. Embroidery technique is a combination of cross stitch, tent stitch and satin stitch in both acrylic and cotton thread.

This is a child's cap made by Uzbeks living in northern Afghanistan, probably in Sar-i-pul province. It is in excellent condition and dates to the mid 20th century. Diameter is 7" (17.8 cm) and the circumference is 20 1/4" (51.4 cm). Silk thread and metallic braid on cotton.

This is a Hazara woman's hat from Bamiyan province in central Afghanistan. Circumference: 51.5 cm; Diameter: 18 cm. The embroidery technique is satin stitch in pink and yellow silk thread on a green polyester ground. Its condition is excellent given its age (mid 20th century). No spots, bleeding, etc.

Due to its strategic location on the ancient Silk Road, the area of Indus Kohistan on the Indus River has absorbed many influences from East and West. This young child's helmet ("khohl") from Indus Kohistan is topped with a beaded tassel, reminiscent of the Phrygian caps of antiquity. Such hats are everyday wear for the small children of the region, one of the most impoverished in all of Pakistan. This child's cap measures 17 inches in circumference and 6 1/2 inches in diameter. Buttons, white beads and metal ornaments adorn the cap, intended to ward off evil spirits ("djinn"). The embroidery is satin stitch and straight stitch in acrylic and metallic thread on black cotton. It is in excellent condition given its age (late 20th century). The inside and top is lined with printed fabric.

Uzbek hats such as this one are commonly worn in the northern areas of Afghanistan, particularly in and around Balkh and Mazar-i-Sharif. This child's hat is a quilted cotton with hand-embroidered silk thread in soft pink, rust, turquoise, salmon and teal. Areas of wear consistent with its age (mid-late 20th century). Circumference: 20 inches; diameter: 7 inches. Height: 2 1/4 inches.

This is a child's helmet ("khohl") from Kohistan, an isolated mountainous region of northern Pakistan located on the river Indus. Metal zippers, white beaded fringes, silver pendants and mirrored discs all serve to guard against the djinn, or evil spirits. The helmet has a high peaked crown supported by inserted sticks of wood, and topped with a beaded tassel. The helmet falls into a V-shape over the shoulders and back, measuring 62 cm from the tassel to the shawl base. Circumference: 42 cm. Diameter: 12.5 cm. The embroidery technique is cross stitch and a very fine tent stitch in both cotton and acrylic thread on black cotton, depicting traditional tree of life and chevron motifs. For a parallel item refer to Colours of the Indus by N. Askari and R. Crill page 124 Fig. 196. Estimated age: late 20th century. It is in excellent condition.

Measuring 5 x 17 inches (12.7 cm x 43.18 cm), this pair of embroidered bands from Afghanistan are dated to the late 20th century and are in good condition with one minor stain on one edge. Cobalt blue and vivid pink are the main colors executed in polyester thread in satin stitch.

This is a shepherd's wool coat from upper Chitral or Nuristan, depicting the branched "ram's horn" and tree of life designs reminiscent of the woollen garments and felts of central Asia. The mountainous area of Chitral adjoins the province of Nuristan in Afghanistan, a historical and geographic starting point for continuous trade routes into central Asia. The coat dates to either the mid or late 20th century and is in excellent condition given its age. The embroidery technique is chain stitch in woollen thread. It measures 35" (90 cm) across, and 32" (81 cm) in length. The sleeve openings are 10" (25 cm). The bust measures 20" (51 cm). There is an inner flap behind the front opening, and a gap under the arm instead of a gusset.

A Hazara woman's hat from Bamiyan province, Afghanistan, hand-embroidered in silk thread on a cotton ground depicting rosettes in yellow, green, blue, pink and turquoise. Long and short stitch and some herringbone stitch in silk thread. Diameter: 21 cm, circumference: 55.5 cm. The hat is in excellent condition. Estimated age mid 20th century.

This lovely child's hat was hand-embroidered by women of Kohistan, an area of lush green forests and valleys located on the river Indus. The embroidery technique is a fine cross stitch and brick stitch in acrylic thread with white beads and buttons. Diameter: 7.5 inches, circumference: 18 inches. Condition: Excellent. Estimated age: late 20th century. The hat size indicates it was made for an infant or toddler.

Measuring 63 x 88 inches (160 x 224 cm), this hand-embroidered wedding shawl from the remote region of Indus Kohistan in northeast Pakistan is estimated to date to the mid or late 20th century. Worked in extremely fine cross stitch and satin stitch in silk thread in interlocking geometric motifs and embellished with beaded edges, a textile such as this may take up to six months to produce. This shawl is embroidered on a black cotton ground and is in excellent condition.

This old Uzbek napramach (also known as a mafrash among the Turkmen tribes) is from northern Afghanistan and is embroidered in silk thread on a grey plainweave cotton background. The medallion and geometric motifs reflect the Greek artistic legacy which influenced the urban weaving workshops of Bactria, a satrap of Alexander the Great's eastern empire. Similar motifs are found in ancient Greek vase designs and also in Chinese neolithic pottery. This textile measures 44 x 100 cm with some considerable fraying consistent with its age (mid 20th century). The embroidery technique is a very fine ladder stitch combined with herringbone stitch. The background lining is a blue printed fabric from Russia. Napramach is the Uzbek word for small bag - such nomadic textiles are traditionally utilized by nomadic women to store their personal belongings.

This boy's coat resembles the famous green chapan worn by Hamid Karzai, the current President of Afghanistan. These coats are worn in Central Asia including Uzbekistan, Afghanistan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, etc. This chapan is woven in silk with a blue cotton shibori inside lining in plain weave, with the inside lapel in brown cotton corduroy. It measures 92.5 cm across the top, from sleeve end to sleeve end. The sleeve opening measures 21 cm. From the shoulder hem to the bottom hem the coat measures 61 cm. The underarm gussets measure 4 cm. Condition of this textile is excellent. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century.

This textile is from Jaghori in central Afghanistan. It measures 25 x 26 centimeters and is in excellent condition. It is embroidered in cross stitch in silk thread and tightly worked into an overall composition that is very typical of the embroidery from this area. Estimated age: mid 20th century. Condition: Excellent.

This child's waistcoat is from Indus Kohistan, located in the province of Pakistan formerly known as the North-West Frontier Province (NWFP), recently re-named Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. It is a superb piece, embroidered on black cotton fabric and embellished with coins, multicolored glass seed beads and pearly buttons. The vest measures 32 cm by 37 cm with the neck yoke measuring 11 cm. It is estimated to date to the middle to late 20th century. The embroidery is extremely fine, mainly cross and satin stitch in silk thread, with some back stitch forming diamond and chevron patterns. The dominant color is red, with emerald green, orange, yellow and royal blue. The triangular shape at the bottom of each beaded tassel on the front of the vest are called "doga" and have a long tradition of use as talismans in central Asia and other ancient cultures. The condition of the waistcoat is excellent with no missing beads and no damage whatsoever. Kohistan literally means "Hilly Country" and refers to the sub-6000 meter peaks enclosing this remote canyon as well as those peaks in upper Swat and lower Dir.

This is a vintage child's front from Paktia province in eastern Afghanistan. It measures 25 x 28 cm and is densely embroidered in silk thread in a tightly worked ladder stitch. The sides, shoulder and waist straps are executed in Bukhara stitching where the metallic threads are carefully laid in parallel and then meticulously fastened down with a cotton thread. This textile is estimated to date to the mid 20th century and is in excellent condition.

Worked in an intriguing combination of long and short stitch and ladder stitch on a fine cotton muslin ground, this Uzbek cushion cover from northern Afghanistan measures 39 x 78 cm and is dated to the mid 20th century. The central field of large rosettes and floral motifs, accented with leaves and smaller rosettes, is executed in silk thread in vivid primary colors in Bukhara couching to evoke the image of a garden in bloom. Condition is excellent.

Measuring 29 x 37 cm this child's waistcoat is from Indus Kohistan. Condition is excellent, and it dates to the mid 20th century. The embroidery technique is straight stitch in silk thread on a black cotton background, embellished with white glass beads and buttons. Kohistan has a rich local history as a crossroads between Central, South and Southwestern Asia. Predominantly inhabited by Dardic and Pashtun tribes since ancient times, Kohistan has been invaded and contested by Persians, Greeks, Scythians, Kushans, Turks, Mughals, and the British.