Catalog: Vintage Arts: Regional Art: Asian (258)

Embroidered on a dark purple silk, this pair of Pashtun tablecloths is from Ghazni province, Afghanistan. Each textile measures 27 x 27 cm and is animated by star motifs and repetitive whorl designs in a closely worked ladder stitch in silk thread, framed by gold-thread braid and gold-thread ribbon appliquéd onto the background. There is also some extremely fine metal thread couching on each piece, and beaded fringes all around the edges. A superb example of Pashtun embroidery. Condition is near perfect, but for some loose couching. Estimated age: mid 20th century.

Traditionally the balisht was intended as a grain sack but its secondary use was that of a cushion. This one measures 33 x 66 cm and has a soft knotted and piled face and a wonderful unique kilim flat woven back which is decorated with colorful bands of chevron patterns mixed with narrow black and white geometrical patterns. The opening of the bag is at the top and the horse hair loops around the mouth of the bag were used for fastening the stuff inside the balisht. The surface has a lustrous sheen due to the soft, fine wool of the pile which is closely woven, giving a play of colors and velvety appearance unsurpassed by other nomadic rugs. Condition is excellent. Mid to late 20th century.

Traditional geometric designs embroidered on a plain weave cotton animate this Hazara cloth from Afghanistan measuring 33 x 39 cm. Cross stitch in multicolored silk thread form an interlocking star pattern. Condition of the textile is excellent. Estimated age: late 20th century. The Hazara are the third largest ethnic group in Afghanistan, inhabiting mostly Bamiyan province but also Orugzan and Ghazni provinces.

Measuring 13 1/2 x 19 1/4 inches this textile from Maqur district in Ghazni province is embroidered in silk thread on a fine linen background. The textile was intended to be made into a man or a woman's shirt. There is only one small brown stain, otherwise its condition is nearly perfect. Estimated age: mid 20th century. The embroidery technique is an extremely detailed ladder stitch.

Metallic thread is used to optimal effect in this Pashtun nomad's purse from southern Afghanistan. The thread is not taken through the magenta silk background but applied onto it in couched threads, laid parallel to each other and caught down by a small stitch in colored cotton. The small fastening stitches in cotton contribute to form a surface pattern of a neat grid of lines which in themselves create geometric and curvilinear motifs in relief (the technique is called "pokhtaduzi", or Romanian couching). This exquisitely embroidered purse was probably used to store kohl and other intimate personal items. The mirrors are called shisha and are there to assist in averting the evil eye, secured with button hole stitching. Estimated age: early to mid 20th century. Condition is overall excellent, but with some oxidation on one corner of the purse. The inside is lined with a Russian printed cotton fabric. The purse measures 14 x 20.7 cm when opened, 10.3 x 14 cm when closed. Four silk thread pompoms are used as accents on the purse.

This is an old prayer cloth from central Afghanistan measuring 35.7 x 35.7 cm. The embroidery technique is satin stitch in silk thread intricately worked on a fine cotton linen ground. These cloths are unique to the Hazara and used to protect the prayer stone from Kerbala, Iraq, which is a holy city of pilgrimmage to the Hazara and other Shi'ite Muslims. The terra cotta prayer stones depict the mosque and minarets of Kerbala and are traditionally brought back by pilgrims to be used during prayer, where the stone is placed on a small square on the cloth which the man touches with his forehead. The textile is in good condition but has some fading due to its age (early to mid 20th century).

Living in the rough mountainous terrain of eastern Paktika and over the Pakistan border in Waziristan, the women of the Mangali tribe wear these leggings for protection. Loose, baggy trousers are tucked into them, and they are re-used until they wear out. Very thick bergundy silk thread is worked in horizontal rows on the top in cross stitch, and on the lower part in vertical bands of heavy whip stitch. Geometric patterns are superimposed in random coloring. The leggings are lined in purple cotton. Each legging measures approximately 19.7 cm x 27.3 cm (7¾ inches x 10¾ inches). The dark, heavy appearance of these leggings is transformed by the light touches of color which, though set in rows, appear haphazard. This pair of leggings is in excellent condition. Estimated age: Circa 1960.

This Tibetan woven wool sash from the mid to late 20th century measures 5½ x 104 inches (14 x 264.2 cm) including the braided fringes and is in excellent condition. These sashes are used by Tibetans to tie their traditional apron attire (chuba for women, lokpa for men) and also to secure knives, bundles etc. The luster of these wool belts is derived from the high lanolin content to be found in the hairs of high-altitude goats living in the Himalayan range from which these belts are woven. Enlargement #12 shows the use of these sashes in traditional Tibetan nomadic culture (© 1995 East of Lo Manthang by Peter Matthiessen and Thomas Laird). These sashes are known as "kaabo" among the Tibetans and are carefully woven on backstrap looms.

Measuring 18 x 18.5 cm when closed, this embroidered purse from Baluchistan is called a "bushkiri" and would be used for storing or carrying valuables and bridal dowry gifts. Worked in a delicate combination of satin stitch and brick stitch in silk thread, the embroidered patterns are medallion, diamond and chevron combined with continuous zigzag forms. Tassels, braided cord, plastic beads and metal-wrapped thread with the interior lined in red printed cotton. Condition is excellent, estimated age mid to late 20th century.

This hand-embroidered Uzbek textile from northern Afghanistan measuring 27 x 28 cm is in great condition. Cross stitch in silk thread on a cotton background. Circa mid to late 20th century.

A pair of decorative table cloths made by Pashtun women, with mirrored, beaded discs ("gul-i-peron") on each corner which serve as protective amulets. The blue bead edging is typical of Pashtun textiles, and is used extensively on purses and clothing as a prophylactic against the evil eye. Silk thread in vibrant colors has been applied in mostly herringbone stitch on a pink cotton background with cording. Each panel measures 26.5 x 26.5 cm. Condition of the pair is excellent. Circa mid to late 20th century.

Embroidered in cotton and acrylic thread on a light blue cotton background with sequins and white bead fringing, this child's hat from Indus Kohistan ("Land of mountains") in Pakistan measures: circumference: 50 inches (127 cm); diameter: 6 inches (15.24 cm). Condition is excellent. Estimated age: mid 20th century. The peak of the crown is achieved with wood gathered from the local forests, expertly woven to make the crown. Embroidery technique is a combination of cross stitch, tent stitch and satin stitch in both acrylic and cotton thread.

A pair of puttees from northern Afghanistan, hand-embroidered by Uzbek women. Each puttee measures 8.4 cm x 48 cm (3 1/4 x 19 inches)and is hand-embroidered in silk thread on a red cotton ground. The embroidery technique is long and short stitch, typical of Uzbek embroidery. Condition: excellent, no stains, no flaws of any kind. The puttee with the braided thread measures 48 cm x 47 cm.

The use of long and short stitch in this Hazara textile from central Afghanistan gives a more detailed surface that better reflects the light than satin stitch. Silk thread on a fine cotton ground, the overall design alternates densely embroidered areas with others left unworked. This napkin measures 32.5 x 34.8 cm and is in excellent condition. Estimated age: late 20th century. The continuous supplementary-weft technique makes this textile reversible and either face may be used as the front.

This vintage textile is from Bamiyan province, Afghanistan and measures 25.5 x 26 cm. Embroidered in pastel-colored silk thread on a fine white linen, it depicts in satin stitch the triangular shapes that are typical of Hazara embroidery. The continuous supplementary-weft technique makes this textile reversible and either face may be used as the front. Condition: Excellent (e.g., no tears, holes, stains). Estimated age: probably 1950-1960.

A densely beaded woman's dress panel made by Kuchi nomads from Afghanistan, probably dating to the mid to late 20th century. Woven glass seed beads attached to a cloth background at the top, overlaid by a second layer with twisted acrylic threads and beaded tassles. Several layers of fabric at the top make this piece stiff and sturdy. This panel measures 11¼ x 21 inches. Kuchis (from the Persian word "koch" meaning migration) are Pashtun nomads, primarily from the Ghilzai, Kakarh, Lodi, Ahmadzai as well as some Durrani tribes, but occasionally there may also be some Baluch people among them. There are 3 million Kuchis in Afghanistan, with at least 60% of them remaining fully nomadic, and over 100,000 have been displaced in the past few years due to war, natural disasters and drought. "A nomad's territory is in one sense boundless, but there is an established path linking a tribe's seasonal pastures, known as 'the way". Packing up and moving of the tribe along the path was, and still is, a twice-yearly ritual in which bags and animal trappings decorated with beads, shells, buttons and metal discs, long wrapped cords and tassles, add to the color and ceremony." (see Janet Harvey, Traditional Textiles of Central Asia).

Four eight-pointed stars are the central theme of this gorgeous textile made by Hazara women, dated to the mid 20th century. Hand-embroidered in extremely fine cross stitch in silk thread on a tan cotton linen, it is the workmanship that marvels. The cross stitch on this textile can be more properly appreciated under a loupe. Each of the four eight-pointed stars is echoed by more eight-pointed stars and accented by triangular hooked motifs down the middle of the piece. The Hazara are the third largest ethnic group in Afghanistan and are Shi'a Muslims. Inhabiting mostly the central region of Afghanistan, embroidery is an important ritual for Hazara women who are isolated by cold and snow for as long as five months per year. This textile measures 22.5 x 23 cm and is in excellent condition.

An antique Lakai Uzbek V-shaped panel (saye gosha/segusha) from northern Afghanistan, early to mid 20th century. The surface is embroidered in polychrome solar and volute motifs in silk thread on a faded red cotton ground, with a star medallion at the apex, edged with metallic couching and crocheted wool fringe. Each side measures 162.6 x 61 cm including the fringe. In very good condition, appropriate for its age and origin.