Catalog: Vintage Arts: Regional Art: Asian (258)

In Bhutan, the Land of the Thunder Dragon (Dzongkha), the time spent in embroidering textiles is considerable and can involve as much as a year for certain ceremonial textiles such as this one with a black background, called a "napsham". Surprisingly, the intricacy of the woven design elements that closely resemble embroidery is created on looms, mostly backstrap looms. This textile measures 97 x 243 cm including the fringes and is embroidered in cotton yarn on a raw silk ground. Condition is near perfect albeit with some slight fading. Mid to late 20th century.

Abstract floral patterns combine with medallion motifs in shades of dark red and pink in this kameez from the Hazara district, North West Frontier Province (recently re-named Khyber Pakhtunkhwa). Silk floss on cotton (a handwoven coarse cloth called khaddar), the embroidery is in the characteristic phulkari stitch which resembles a satin stitch but only on the front side. Each cuff has an embroidered band in brick stitch. The tunic measures 37 1/2 x 68 inches while each sleeve measures 27 1/2 inches from the hem. Dated to the early or mid 20th century, its condition is very good except for some stains around the gussets and on the back.

Measuring 56 x 88 cm, this horse headcover was hand-embroidered by Uzbeks of the Lakai tribe, well-known for their horsemanship. Each of the embroidered panels feature solar and horned designs, executed in Bukhara couching on red wool flannel, fringed with beaded silk tassels ending in small white beads, a typical feature in Central Asian embroidery. Condition is good but with a few small holes. Estimated age: mid 20th century.

This little Hazara purse from Afghanistan was designed to hold kohl or some other small item. Embroidered in fine brick stitch in various colors of silk with the edges fringed with white glass beads, the purse measures 12 x 12 cm with the flap closed. It is in excellent condition, dating to the late 20th century.

A vintage Hmong textile from Laos, carefully crafted into a cushion cover backed with soft black pig suede. The cushion measures 11 1/4" x 15 1/2" with a 100% polyester insert. The textile itself consists of machine embroidery and reverse applique with some intricately worked hand embroidery as accents. The spirals symbolize longevity. Estimated age mid to late 20th century. Condition is overall great with some very minor fraying.

This small textile features 25 small mirrors ("shisha") and measures 8.2 x 17.8 cm. There are supposed to be 26 mirrors but one of them is missing, either intentionally or not. Silk and metallic thread on cotton, densely embroidered throughout, with very fine button hole stitching and Romanian couching technique in the center. Mid to late 20th century. Condition is excellent.

Straddling both sides of the Durand Line, the Mangal tribe are one of the more influential Pashtun tribes. This Mangal textile measures 24.6 x 28 cm and is in excellent condition. Curvilinear and geometric motifs are excecuted in straight stitch, Holbein stitch, and a tightly worked ladder stitch on a plum polyester ground. Estimated age: mid 20th century. The Mangal reside primarily in southeastern Paktia and adjacent Khost provinces of Afghanistan. The name "Mangal" is derived from the Sanskrit name for the planet Mars. The Mangal are known for their independent nature and have a long history of resisting British forces, central and provincial governments, Soviet army, and even fellow Pashtun Taliban militia.

This lovely child's hat was hand-embroidered by women of Kohistan, an area of lush green forests and valleys located on the river Indus. The embroidery technique is a fine cross stitch and brick stitch in acrylic thread with white beads and buttons. Diameter: 7.5 inches, circumference: 18 inches. Condition: Excellent. Estimated age: late 20th century. The hat size indicates it was made for an infant or toddler.

This purse is worked in a variation of ladder stitch to form repeating whorl and volute motifs on a silk ground. The inside features two pockets lined with purple silk and orange cotton, with the outer edges fringed with blue glass seed beads to protect against the evil eye. The purse measures 14.2 x 25.5 cm and is dated to the early to mid 20th century. Silk thread and metallic couching on silk.

Measuring 22.6 cm x 23.3 (22.6 x 51.3 including the belt), this child's waistcoat panel was hand-embroidered by Pashtun Mangal women in silk thread on a green silk and red cotton background, in a delicate combination of satin stitch, herringbone stitch and long and short stitch. Its estimated age is mid to late 20th century. Condition is excellent. The Mangal are one of the largest and perhaps the most powerful and influential Pashtun tribes, residing in Southeastern Paktia and adjacent Khost provinces of Afghanistan. The name "Mangal", is derived from the Sanskrit name for the planet Mars. The Mangals are known for their independent nature, and have a long history of resisting British forces, central and provincial governments, Soviet army, and even fellow Pashtun Taliban militia.

Measuring 29 x 37 cm this child's waistcoat is from Indus Kohistan. Condition is excellent, and it dates to the mid 20th century. The embroidery technique is straight stitch in silk thread on a black cotton background, embellished with white glass beads and buttons. Kohistan has a rich local history as a crossroads between Central, South and Southwestern Asia. Predominantly inhabited by Dardic and Pashtun tribes since ancient times, Kohistan has been invaded and contested by Persians, Greeks, Scythians, Kushans, Turks, Mughals, and the British.

The use of long and short stitch in this Hazara textile from central Afghanistan gives a more detailed surface that better reflects the light than satin stitch. Silk thread on a fine cotton ground, the overall design alternates densely embroidered areas with others left unworked. This napkin measures 32.5 x 34.8 cm and is in excellent condition. Estimated age: late 20th century. The continuous supplementary-weft technique makes this textile reversible and either face may be used as the front.

Embroidered in vivid turquoise silk floss with a top stitch of golden silk floss, this woman's shawl ("phulkari") from Swat Valley measures 97 cm x 198 cm and is in excellent condition. The designs are stylized rosettes with densely embroidered borders and a medallion motif in the center. Black is the dominant color for the background of Swati embroideries, which share many motifs in common with the embroidery from Hazara district. The unique motifs on this wedding shawl suggest Chinese influence and similar stylized floral patterns are found on Tibetan scrolls. The curvilinear motifs and dense areas of stitchery are composed of the characteristic "phulkari" stitch which resembles a satin stitch but only on the front side. It is embroidered from the reverse side on a plainwoven coarse cloth known as "khaddar". This shawl is estimated to date to the late 20th century.

Measuring 15 x 16.5 this embroidered purse from Afghanistan is in excellent condition and dates to the mid to late 20th century. Silk thread on cotton, in satin stich and brick stitch. White beads on corded tassels surround the edges. Condition is excellent. Estimated age late 20th century.

A child's cap from Indus Kohistan which is part of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa (formerly known as NWFP). Some of the finest embroidery of this region comes from the area between Patan and Komila, where small settlements beside tributaries of the Indus produce embroidered costume and small bags worked in minute cross stitch and tent stitch. This cap with its beaded tassle is very typical of the region in its use of pompoms, buttons, white beading, and incredibly fine petit point stitch in silk thread. Condition: overall very good, albeit with some fraying which is to be expected from a cap of this age. Diameter 15.2 cm, circumference 43 cm. Some portion of the cap lining from inside is a printed cotton fabric.

A child's cap embroidered in acrylic thread, tent stitch and satin stitch, it is embellished with pompoms, buttons, metal trinkets and white beads which are traditional decorative elements of Kohistani embroidery. Diameter is 16.5 cm, circumference 43 cm. Mid to late 20th century. Some fraying.

A Baluchi saddle bag ("khurzeen") from the mid to late 20th century, measuring 47 x 109 cm. In wool ground with patterned bands in weft-faced, slit tapestry, half pile and half kilim. Strong plaited goat hair loops are attached which are interlaced when closing. Condition is excellent.

This Tibetan woven wool sash from the mid to late 20th century measures 5½ x 104 inches (14 x 264.2 cm) including the braided fringes and is in excellent condition. These sashes are used by Tibetans to tie their traditional apron attire (chuba for women, lokpa for men) and also to secure knives, bundles etc. The luster of these wool belts is derived from the high lanolin content to be found in the hairs of high-altitude goats living in the Himalayan range from which these belts are woven. Enlargement #12 shows the use of these sashes in traditional Tibetan nomadic culture (© 1995 East of Lo Manthang by Peter Matthiessen and Thomas Laird). These sashes are known as "kaabo" among the Tibetans and are carefully woven on backstrap looms.