Catalog: Archives: Estate Jewelry (467)

An early, pre-1948 Matl-esque silver, amethyst and turquoise ring, this piece is signed by one of Matilde's contemporaries whose emulations of her designs I came to appreciate for their craftsmanship and beauty of the stones used. This is also a more rare to find variation, having a round face with a deep channel separating the amethyst from the turquoise cabs. The ring is a comfortable size 6 and its face measures 3/4" in diameter...

A very interesting yet no less monumental bracelet by Enrique Ledesma in which the maestro combines modernist silver work with curved stone tubes left unpolished- a rather unusual choice for him. I am intrigued by the combination and think that the stones are actually malachite with veins of pyrite in them. Vividly colored, the bracelet has a stunning presence because of its magnificently architectural links and it feels divinely around the wrist...

I love the idea of combination pin/pendants - they make for such versatile jewelry and can prove a mainstay in a lady's jewelry box. And when they come with the signature of Matilde Poulat, especially an early one, it is very difficult to resist them! Like the big, impressive example here, in one of Matilde's signature designs studded with coral and turquoise...

Published in Penny Morrill's latest book on Margot de Taxco's enamel work, the so called "Curling Lines" necklace is one of her most loved designs and definitely a piece that epitomizes her understanding of femininity and elegance. Deeply sculpted repousse links that bring to mind feathers dotted with perfect silver beads, lead to a gorgeous central piece where the silver twists and twirls like waves in the sea...

Based on the fact that Casa Maya reproduced several of Hubert Harmon's design in copper and brass, Sandy Hargrove in her book on the taller's work suggested that the company must have had the designer's permission to do so...

A vintage Antonio Pineda tie clip out of the designer's mod line that combined oxidized silver with pearls. Very slick, understatedly elegant and in excellent condition with an obligingly tight spring. The clip measures 1 1/2" long by 3/8" wide and it weighs 9.7 grams. It is fully signed with Antonio's crown as well as Eagle 17 assay mark and "970" "STERLING TAXCO MEXICO" and dates in the 1950s-60s.

Fabulous, very rare and rather early example of Danish silver jewelry signed by H. Saugmann Bjerregaard, active in Kjellerup in the years between 1921 and 1937. True to its period, the bracelet has an Egyptian Revival theme with its five panels showing Sphinxes holding carved, prong-set chrysoprase stones in them...

One of my favorite designs of the so-called "archaeological" genre, I have seen similar pieces bearing Victoria's signature but this one is made by an artist who signs his name with initials "AE" in a heart-shaped "M". Though we don't know much about the specific maker, we do know that his work was appreciated enough by his colleagues that his signature can be found on jewelry by Rancho Alegre and Estela Popowski...

I have a weakness for over-the-top earrings hence my lack of resistance to this pair. A set from the "archaeological period", the big dangles are formed by two mirrored Quetzalcoatls, the Feathered Serpents being entangled in a tight embrace. Nice cut-outs, easily readable hand-etched details and dimpled dot findings - spectacular! The earrings are 2 1/4" long by 1 3/4" wide (at their widest) and weigh 25.5 grams (for the set)...

I love Antonio crosses - most of the times, they look more like a work of abstract art than a symbol of one's spirituality. And the silver, pearl and (I believe) zoisite or chrysoprase pendant here is definitely a good example of that. Simply gorgeous, with fantastic patina and the most adorable pearls, it catches the eye with its sense of motion and the green gem at its center...

The popularity of Matilde Poulat's jewelry and her exceptional creative genius prompted several of her contemporary maestros to emulate them - in fact, copies of her pieces are made to this day, some less "successful" than others. The ring at hand dates, I believe, in the pre-1948 period and is very well made...

An astounding piece not only for its superbly crafted, big pendant but also because of its entirely hand-made "cage" chain this is an early Taxco masterpiece wrought in 960 silver. Signed by a listed maestro about whom not much is known, it bears old hallmarks in raised lettering and is adorned by beading, overlay and a beautifully carved, dimensional jade mask...

Very much in the early style of Fred Davis, a vintage Deco Taxco necklace wrought in almost pure, 980 silver. This is a classy, substantial piece with its shield form links made out of silver sheet with good thickness and adorned with applied repousse semi-spheres, etching and bezel set amethyst cabochons. A true Mexican beauty, 16 1/4" long (wearable; easily lengthened with the addition of a sterling extension which I can provide upon request) by 1" wide, weighing a good 95.6 grams...

Stunning, big vintage 1950s Peruvian figural brooch bearing the signature of Italian-born Graziella Laffi, the so-called "Spratling of Peru". I believe the figure represents an Inca god, shown here with a snake coiled around his waist and holding two salamanders. The brooch is made of thick gauge silver sheet, perfectly cut and finished, with silver overlay parts and hand-chased details. A fantastic example of Laffi's exceptional design genius, it measures 2 1/4" tall by 2 3/8" wide...

One of the best designs in early Mexican repousse work, the "feathers" makes for divine necklaces because of the gracious way the two halves of the piece meet at the center front - just take a look at the beauty of the swirls and twists and the playful, flirty way they touch yet at the same time "turn the back" on each other... I have had pieces in this design before - actually even a parure with Villasana's signature on it (I do believe that it's based on an early Los Castillo design possib...

The primary designer for Plateria Rancho Alegre, Miguel Martinez created some of the most beautiful jewelry available in Taxco at the time. There is something primordially powerful about his jewelry and I think the door-knocker dangle earrings presented here illustrate in the best way what I am trying to say. I love the "fleshiness" of the design, , the attention to three-dimensionality in its execution and the perfect way by which glowing silver and oxidation are married together...

Charm bracelets were always popular but even more so in the 1950s-60s, when they became all the rage with big film divas wearing and advertising them. Understandably, the Mexican talleres happily joined in the fun and created some spectacular examples. This is the second piece in this specific design that I have had over the years and I believe it is superb! Distinctly three-dimensional with its double row of domed silver links that catches the eye right away, and heavy enough to make itsel...

In my opinion the best Mexican modernist designer, Salvador Teran was a maestro of many talents and created some of the most striking pieces of Taxco jewelry. Offered here is his signature "Moon and Star" bracelet, which aptly demonstrates his ability to create exceptional minimalist pieces. The bracelet has an inner circumference of 6 1/2" and is ideal for smaller to medium wrists. Its face is approx. 1 3/4" square and the width of the two "wings" tapers from 1" to 3/4". Measuring 66.9 grams...