Catalog: Estate Jewelry (313)

An antique silver - most probably sterling - watch fob with original chain and dog clip, this sweet little find is, I believe, from the late Victorian / Edwardian period. There is nothing mundane about it either - I find the basketweave ribbon that runs the fob's perimeter at the waist eye-catching as well as the wire-work above it. Both elements enhance the orb's sculpturality which is, of course, underscored by oxidation and patina...

A classic design for renowned Taxco modernist Enrique Ledesma, this set of vintage sterling silver Mexican mid-century earrings comes with clips and is set with green inlay, possibly azur-malachite or some kind of agate. There is nothing fussy about the pair - good, honest materials, clarify of form and fluidity of lines...

I recently acquired a collection of vintage Mexican sterling silver cufflinks and tie bars and I decided to start with the most intriguing to me set. Undoubtedly based on a Salvador Teran design, I am hesitant to say that the trio is a Salvador original yet at the same time I am tempted to think so. The reason for my vacillation is the incomplete (?) hallmarking. Even though the quality and attention to detail in the design's execution is there, I can't find Salvador's signature...

Playing the violin with abandon as is evident by their determined expression, Margot de Taxco’s “musician putti” come here in earring form which is a rather rare occurrence. The specific angelic musician is usually found hanging off Margot’s charm bracelet of the same design, one out of a band of nine, and even though I have had the bracelet a few times in the past, this is the first pair of earrings I have found...

A multi-talented award-winning artist, Arno Malinowski worked for Georg Jensen for several years and created some iconic designs for the company. His most popular pieces are brooches wrought in sterling and inspired by the natural world - deer, birds, dolphins, alone or in delicately depicted foliage, their bodies rendered with such sensitivity, one feels compelled to constantly run one's fingers over them. The bird portrayed in the brooch at hand is illustrative of what I am trying to say...

The Arts and Crafts is one of my favorite periods in jewelry design - emphasis on motifs from nature, design that focuses on craftsmanship while allowing the viewer to follow the artisan's hand, "honest" materials without necessarily seeking out the most expensive metals and gemstones, it was a real break with the fussy excesses of Victorian aesthetics. The silver and banded agate intaglio ring presented here is an example that brings together all the above...

An elaborate sterling silver knot hanging off a classic repousse semi-sphere takes center-stage in this set of vintage Mexican dangle earrings by renowned Taxco maestro Pedro Castillo. I love Pedro Castillo's work for its complexity and layering and the modernist twist it adds to motifs derived from Mexico's rich cultural past...

Habitually referred to as the “Spratling of Peru”, Italian-born Graziella Laffi spearheaded Peru’s own Silver Renaissance in the 1950s. Based on ingenious re-interpretations of ancient Inca motifs, her jewelry, decorative objects and holloware are avidly sought after by committed collectors for their impeccable craftsmanship and inspired design...

When it comes to classy Mexican jewelry, nobody can beat Margot de Taxco. Margot had that rare, innate ability to instinctively create elegant designs which defied the whims of fashion and remain as relevant today as they did when they first became available. The set of repousse earrings presented here is, I believe, a very good illustration of what I am trying to say. I have had pieces of her des...

Early, sweet little ring from Taxco, this pinky is wrought in silver and adorned with what I believe to be an ancient bi-cone stone bead out of which emanate two playful, musical cascabeles. It is not uncommon for vintage Mexican jewelry from the first decades of the country's 20th c. Silver Renaissance to incorporate ancient beads and small artifacts as it was not illegal at the time for individuals to buy and sell them...

I always preface Jose Luis Flores's jewelry by saying that, in my opinion, he was one of the most talented Taxco maestros during the town's heyday. His creations are usually modernist re-interpretations of ancient Meso-american motifs, always dynamic and quite often magnificently layered...

One of my favorite “less celebrated” early Mexican maestros, AEM (or AE Heart as he is also referred to because of the way he signs his work) had his workshop in Mexico City and he created some really nice pieces. It has been a long time since I presented something by him but this set of “mesh and bead” dangle earrings more than compensates for the gap...

True to the philosophy of the Arts and Crafts movement which valued artistry and craftsmanship at the expense of ostentatious materials this early 20th c. ring is wrought in silver and centered by a glorious Peking glass cabochon. The ring’s bezel is supported by laurel leaves, their layering given depth by oxidation while the white swirls in the green cab bestow it the dynamism of turbulent water. Currently a sz 4.25 US the ring is easily resizable...

A retail shop in Taxco, Margarita was a place were one could buy jewelry by many local maestros, according to Bille Hougart...

I am a big fan of Carmen Beckmann’s Etruscan style jewelry - her domed Etruscan ring is a foundational piece in my collection and I enjoy it thoroughly. There is something about the way the wire-work and tiny florets with their bead centers oxidize with time that creates an air of warm, comfortable luxury around them that gets me every time. I could easily see the dangle earrings at hand worn by dignified Roman matrons leisurely enjoying their honeyed wine. Measuring 1 1/4” long by 1 1/8” ...

After working for Spratling in Las Delicias and Hector Aguilar in Taller Borda, Reveriano Castillo opened his shop Reveri in 1952 with the co-operation of his wife, Maria. His jewelry is known for its impeccable finishing and the good quality of materials used so I am always happy to come upon one of his creations. The set of earrings at hand in an abstract floral design with articulated stamen dangle is as sweet-as-can-be and ideal to celebrate the coming of Spring this year. Measuring 1 3/4...

The "queen" of shadowbox designs, Victoria - otherwise Ana Maria Nunez de Brilanti - also excelled in the "married metals" technique. Her work is inspired, of the highest quality and today it is considered part of Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance design index. The adjustable sterling silver ring I am presenting here is out of her coveted "angel" parure. The form does not come up very often and I am happy to have come upon a beautifully aged example. Beading and black-as-pitch oxidation in the...

An early Los Castillo design and very much in keeping with the 1940s' love for sweeping flourishes this set of earrings, carefully hand-cut, overlaid and oxidized will add just the right amount of festive spirit to your outfit. Bold and confident, the swirls seem to twist upon themselves in excitement and then reach high up for the skies with abandonment. Got to love the Los Castillo and the myriad ways in which they still make our day. The earrings measure 1 3/4" tall by 3/4" wide and weigh 12....