Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Silver (314)

An iconic personality for advocates of female empowerment, Jeanne d’ Arc is not a figure I expected to see on a piece of jewelry by the Los Castillo. I look at the pendant and I see Margot de Taxco at her drawing table, sketch pencil in hand, making the French heroine materialize on paper before she is cast in sterling silver...

Signed by Mary Gage, the eccentric yet talented silversmith (among other vocations!) of the late American Arts and Crafts movement, this wide sterling silver band ring is entirely hand-wrought and features her signature "lily pads" motif. It seems that Gage crafted this ring in 14k yellow gold as well which probably explains why, if you look really closely to the clusters of tiny beading separating the lily pads, you will spot two or three that are made of gold...

Maestro Mateo of Taxco is known among vintage jewelry collectors for his modernist, mostly brutalist, ring designs. His work is sought after for its quality, the beauty of the stones he incorporates in his pieces and the strong sense of tension that his rings exude. His career strides the divide between the so-called Eagle mark period and that of the T-marks and, in my experience, he is one of the very few silversmiths who used .950 alloys before they became the norm in the 1980s...

I am thrilled to have stumbled upon this amazing, quintessentially Deco and quite rare Mexican silver and stone ring! Though this piece is not signed for maker, the design is a known Fred Davis creation and as I have recently noted in one of my descriptions, Davis was never as adamant as Spratling was in hallmarking all jewelry coming out of his workshop. So out there, there are many Davis creations that are simply not marked fully and I believe this beauty might easily be one of them...

Sized for a man (yet resizable by a jeweler to fit a woman as well) this vintage Mexican silver and carved amethyst "mask" ring attracted me with its unusual brutalist setting. I don't think I have ever encountered a "mask" in a brutalist ring and I was quite thrilled with the discovery despite the fact that the stone was showing its age and the shank was burdened with a huge blob of solder thanks to somebody's clumsy attempt at resizing...

A rarely surfacing pair of stunning Miguel Martinez earrings, this set reinterprets neo-Aztec elements in a modernist, almost surrealist way. I consider Martinez's jewelry to be among the best examples of 20th c. Taxco design and silver-smithing, always a feast for the eyes and perfectly finished...

I don’t often use the expression “Holy Grail” but Tane’s “Tarascan” necklace is one of those few pieces in the world of vintage Mexican silver jewelry that deserves it. Especially if it bears pre-1980 hallmarks - which is the case here. Habitually referred to as “the Tiffany’s of Mexico”, Tane has been producing holloware and jewelry in silver and gold since 1942 and is known throughout the world for the quality of craftsmanship, impeccable design and perfect finishing...

Rings by Victoria of Taxco, one of the few ladies of Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance that are known to us, are such rare finds, they actually touch upon the impossible. If one is really lucky, one might find a shadowbox example from her "angel" parure but I have never before seen a "mask" ring with her signature. Yet here it is - the black onyx "mask" set in elaborate sterling worked such as to represent a headdress and breastplate...

An ode to Mexico’s ancient crafts this “tribal” necklace wrought in sterling silver with bone links and agate beads bears the signature of Reveriano (Reveri) Castillo. Though the Castillos did, on occasion, incorporate Aztec and Maya artifacts and beads in their jewelry, I believe that here the materials used are contemporary to the designer but brought together is such a way as to evoke ancient types of personal adornment...

After working for Spratling in Las Delicias and Hector Aguilar in Taller Borda, Reveriano Castillo opened his shop Reveri in 1952 with the co-operation of his wife, Maria. His jewelry is known for its impeccable finishing and the good quality of materials used so I am always happy to come upon one of his creations. The set of earrings at hand in an abstract floral design with articulated stamen dangle is as sweet-as-can-be and ideal to celebrate the coming of Spring this year...

Maestro Rivera, known for his high quality creations in Matilde Poulat's "jeweled" style, is the silversmith signing this stunning Mexican Deco bracelet. Carefully wrought silver-work with beading, hand-hammering and twist-rope details is studded with pyramid- and emerald-cut amethysts as well as coral and turquoise little cabs...

Signed by my favorite Mexican modernist, this set of Salvador Teran earrings in the so-called "crouching man" design combines sterling, strategically placed oxidation and richly speckled azur-malachite stones. I consider Teran a true genius - his jewelry has that inner power that holds the gaze and the imagination captive and sends them on surreal journeys into worlds familiar and at the same time strange and wondrous...

Sergio is another one of Taxco’s “enigmatic” names. Whether a maestro or a retailer is not known nor is their relationship - if any at all - with the other Sergio whose name is signed in script. Over the years of my buying and selling vintage Mexican silver jewelry, I have come upon a few examples of their work - and I loved them all. The modernist articulated necklace I am presenting here, very much in the spirit of Sigi Pineda’s designs, is the epitome of minimalism...

Welcome Spring with this set of vibrantly colored sterling silver vermeil and enamel butterfly brooches by renowned Norwegian enamelist Hroar Prydz...

Though it is not uncommon to find Mexican silver fur pins, it is usually single pieces that are available. Here, however, there is a pair bearing the signature of the Los Castillo in a “bow and flower” design. I am not sure if the workshop ever made a whole parure available in this specific design - I have had the small bow necklace / bracelet sets in the past but this is an enhanced version, with more elements added to the bow and the bow itself bigger and fancier. I have seen one or two br...

Sets of bangle bracelets are bound to lighten the spirit and brighten the day with their music and, if they are also studded with stones like the ones at ... hand, the splashes of color they scatter around. Made in the middle period of Taxco's 20th c. Silver Renaissance and signed by listed yet still unidentified maestros, these two came to me as a pair and this is the way I would like to send them out to their next new, loving home. Perfect to wear as a duo but also ideal to bring the vibrancy ...

I acquired this pair of Miguel Melendez’s hinged bangles as a set some time ago and after long deliberations, I decided that they should continue in life as such. Miguel is one of Taxco’s modernists yet he honed his skills at Spratling’s Las Delicias and working for Margot de Taxco for many years. This specific design is a favorite of mine’s by him - it brings to mind rock formations and I love the interplay of negative and positive space. I am also attracted to the specific stone that ...

A book piece for Sigi Pineda, the “boomerang” brooch belongs in a line of jewelry in which the Taxco modernist combined layering, purposefully applied oxidation and vividly colored semi-precious and hard- stones to create slick, modernist, I would even say space-age, designs that seems as relevant today as they did when they were first introduced to the world. What I always found amazing about this brooch is the ingenious - and quite minimal - way the stone (chrysoprase in our case) is incor...