Catalog: Vintage Arts: Regional Art: Asian (258)

Measuring 29.2 x 33.6 cm, this textile is from central Afghanistan, home of the minority Hazara people who are Shi'ite Muslims, inhabiting at least three or four provinces (Jaghori, Bamiyan, Orugzan, Wardak). The embroidery on this textile is exclusively silk herringbone stitch on an ivory cotton linen ground. The textile is in good condition overall with some mild staining. Estimated age: early to mid 20th century.

This is a lady's purse from Bamiyan, Afghanistan, finely embroidered in silk thread. The Hazara excel in making very intricate geometric design embroideries executed in brick stitch. This purse has also some chain stitch and couching stich ("basma") on the reverse, which features three separate pockets. Condition is good with some staining on the front consistent with its age (mid to late 20th century). The purse measures 10.9 x 23.6 cm.

Embroidered in vivid pink on olive cotton, this purse from Swat valley is 50-60 years old and in excellent condition. Geometric patterns embroidered in straight stitching in pink floss silk are outlined in yellow and white double running stitch, with accents of purple and cream. The purse measures 18 x 19.5 cm.

Intricately worked ladder stitch embroidered in green silk thread on a fine doubled muslin background, this old textile from Maqur district in Ghazni province in central Afghanistan would have formed the sleeve cuffs for a woman's dress. Spiral and volute motifs are harmoniously joined to form an exuberant unity in composition. This textile measures 40 x 48.5 cm and is dated to the early or mid 20th century. The textile has some significant staining, unsurpising given its age.

This textile from central Afghanistan was made by Hazara women and depicts the severed hands and shrine of Hazrat Abbas, the half-brother of Hussein ibn Ali, during the battle of Kerbala in Iraq. The scene is embroidered in very fine cross stitch in rayon thread on a polyester background and measures 47 x 59 cm. Condition: Excellent. Estimated age: late 20th century. The inscription at the top reads "Turbah-i-Kerbala" in Dari ("soil of Kerbala"), referring to the holy and curative properties of the clay from Kerbala.

This vintage purse from Afghanistan is worked in a variation of ladder stitch and Bukhara couching to form repeating whorl and volute motifs. Silk and metallic thread are embroidered on a green polyester ground. The purse feature two inside pockets lined with red printed cotton, with the outer edges fringed with blue glass seed beads to protect against the evil eye. It measures 10.5 x 14 cm when closed, 13.8 x 25 cm when opened and dates to the mid or late 20th century.

A hand-embroidered Turkman Yomut nomad's skullcap from Herat dated to the early to mid 20th century. Exceptionally fine ladder stitch combined with satin stitch and couching in silk thread. Condition is very good, just some tiny stains. Diameter: 18 cm, circumference 48.5 (approx. 19 inches).

This vintage Turkmen Tekke child's bib or collar is hand-embroidered in silk thread with cotton tassels. Shoulder to shoulder measures 19" and the front is 9 1/2" with a 3" fringe. The reverse is a printed cotton fabric and the embroidery technique features the traditional gul-i-badam ("almond flower") motif which is generally found only on Turkmen embroideries from Afghanistan. Condition is excellent and its estimated age is late 20th century.

This little Hazara purse from Afghanistan was designed to hold kohl or some other small item. Embroidered in fine brick stitch in various colors of silk with the edges fringed with white glass beads, the purse measures 12 x 12 cm with the flap closed. It is in excellent condition, dating to the late 20th century.

Measuring 5 x 17 inches (12.7 cm x 43.18 cm), this pair of embroidered bands from Afghanistan are dated to the late 20th century and are in good condition with one minor stain on one edge. Cobalt blue and vivid pink are the main colors executed in polyester thread in satin stitch.

This is a wedding shift from Indus Kohistan in Pakistan. Kohistan, meaning "land of mountains", has been a crossroads between Central, South and Southwestern Asia, absorbing artistic influences from the ancient Greeks and Scythians. Measuring 190 cm extended from sleeve to sleeve, the bust is 45 cm; arm opening: 34 cm; from shoulder to bottom hem: 104 cm. The embroidery technique is brick stitch and cross stich in a combination of acrylic and silk thread. Condition is excellent. For more information on these textiles please see Colours of the Indus by Nasreen Askari and Rosemary Crill © 1997 Merrell Holberton Publishers, pp. 132-133). Estimated age mid to late 20th century.

This is a woman's shawl from Waziristan in deep magenta, yellow and black, with a woven cotton field on the edges and silk thread throughout. It measures 123 cm in width and 249.9 cm in length. Estimated age early to mid 20th century. Waziristan is entirely populated by ethnic Pashtuns and is named after the Wazir tribe. Condition is good, some staining to be expected from normal wear.

A woman's shawl from Waziristan dated to the early 20th century. Woven black cotton field with silk fringes, and intricate silk embroidery throughout. It measures 49 inches in width, 103.5 inches in length (124.5 cm x 262.9 cm). Condition is excellent, just some minor discolorations to be expected from a textile of this age. Waziristan ("land of the Wazir") is a mountainous region near the Northwest of Pakistan, bordering Afghanistan and covering some 11,585 km (4,473 sq mi). The area is entirely populated by ethnic Pashtuns who speak Pashto. It is part of the Federally Administered Tribal Areas (FATA), considered to be outside the country's four provinces.

A man's shawl from Waziristan which is part of the Federally Administered Tribal Areas, considered to be outside Pakistan's four provinces. Circa 1920s. The Mangal tribe who inhabit Waziristan actually straddle the border between Pakistan and Afghanistan. This textile is very complex, composed of a black woven cotton field and silk ends, with silk embroidery in between. The combination of black cotton ground and silk is used to vivid effect. The piece measures 87 inches by 51½ inches (221 cm x 130.8 cm). The silk threads are in bergundy, turquoise, mustard yellow, white, black and blue. Only the black background is cotton, the rest of the piece is woven silk. Warp-faced, embroidered, supplementary weft, and hand-sewn techniques are all visible especially in enlargement #10. This textile is comprised of two pieces stitched together at the center with yellow thread. Condition: Excellent, just a small spot on the front that may appear faded but this is from decades of wear.

This is a woman's shift known as a "jumlo" from the remote Indus Kohistan area of northern Pakistan. Jumlos are among the most lavishly embroidered textiles in all of Asia and are usually worn with an embroidered shawl known as a "chuprai". This tunic is embroidered in silk floss thread on black cotton in extremely fine half cross-stitch ("petit point") and the surface darning stitch for which Swati embroidery is famous. It is further embellished with assorted metal trinkets, amulets and buttons, which are used extensively in the embroidery from this district. In addition to providing decoration, they act as charms to avert evil from the wearer. The gored and flounced skirt features no less than 350 inserted triangular panels. The textile measures 149 cm when measured across the shoulders and back from sleeve end to sleeve end. Measured from neck to flounce hem the length is 85.5 cm. Condition: Excellent, there are a few small moth holes in the skirt, the largest measuring 3 x 4.5 cm (under repair). Estimated age: mid 20th century.

The elaborate traditional costume of Kohistani women is comprised of a dress (jumlo) and shawl (chuprai) which are worn over trousers with finely embroidered cuffs. The shawl is constructed of two overlapping rectangular panels, hemmed with white beaded fringing. The two bottom corners are joined by turning up the lower edge, and the join is embellished with a triangular beaded motif which functions as an amulet, while adding weight to the bottom edge. Small metal mirrors and pendants dangle across the shawl, and an old zipper serves as a decorative edging at the bottom. The stitching is in silk floss on black cotton, a combination of tent stitch (also called petit point), cross stitch, and satin stitch which is very similar in style to the phulkari-type stitch of Swat valley. This shawl is estimated to date to the early 20th century and measures 63 x 88 inches (160 x 223.5 cm). The women of Indus Kohistan may spend half a year to produce a single wedding shawl.

The traditional embroidery of Kandahar ("khamak" in Pashto) is exquisitely fine and extremely labor intensive. A piece such as this one may take up to three months to complete due to the exceptionally detailed stitching technique. This is a panel from a man's shirt from Kandahar province, Afghanistan, and dates to the mid 20th century. Measuring 38.5 x 42 cm, the fine geometric designs are densely embroidered in a mustard silk thread with discrete cobalt highlights. The relief effect of the monochrome embroidery is enhanced by pulled work in satin stitch, so densely worked as to almost completely cover the linen fabric ground. The use of the counted-thread technique makes it extremely difficult to stitch directly onto the fabric, thus the linen on linen ground. This textile is extraordinary for the precision of the stitching and the sheen of the silk, which is worked to attract the light in different ways to optimal effect. It is in excellent condition given its age. Enlargement #12 shows the textile from the reverse side.

A woman's dress panel from Baluchistan, densely embroidered in Holbein stitch, blanket stitch, chain stitch, and satin stitch in silk, cotton and metal thread. Most Baluchi women labor for years embroidering fine works of art for their daughters’ dowries. Small girls begin to learn basic stitches and patterns at about the age of six or seven years. They do not use charts or diagrams but instead create extremely complex designs from memory, often with assistance and suggestions from family members or neighbors. This textile measures 29.5 x 40 cm. Condition: Excellent. The diamond repeat pattern in columns is typical of these embroidered dress panels, which are sewn on to silk or cotton to form a dress called a pashk. the diamond repeat pattern is known as "paraiz zarto" in the Baluch language. The estimated age of this textile is late 20th century.

A woman's shirt front from Baluchistan, mid to 20th century, in a combination of blanket stitch, herringbone and satin stitch on green cotton in a diamond repeat pattern. It measures 30.5 x 47 cm. A dress ("pashk") covered with detailed embroidery is everyday attire for Baluch women. The embroidered diamond repeat pattern is known as "paraiz zarto" in the language of the Baluch. Condition: Excellent.

This is a woman's shift ("kurta") from Swat Valley, Pakistan. It measures 125 cm from one sleeve extended to the other; the gusset measures 24 cm; the bust 57 cm. From top shoulder to bottom hem it measures 91 cm. The sleeve opening is 17 cm. The embroidery technique is pink and red floss silk on indigo-dyed and black cotton depicting geometric shapes typical of the embroidery of the Swat Valley. Condition of this textile is excellent. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century.

Measuring 63 x 88 inches (160 x 224 cm), this hand-embroidered wedding shawl from the remote region of Indus Kohistan in northeast Pakistan is estimated to date to the mid or late 20th century. Worked in extremely fine cross stitch and satin stitch in silk thread in interlocking geometric motifs and embellished with beaded edges, a textile such as this may take up to six months to produce. This shawl is embroidered on a black cotton ground and is in excellent condition.

Depicting swirling stylized floral discs in couching stitch ("basma") worked in silk thread on cotton, this pair of Uzbek tent hangings measure 16 x 100 cm. The elaborate tassels and wrapped cords are formed in silk thread, decorated with crown knots and silver metallic thread. They are in excellent condition.

This is a textile piece from Afghanistan, probably from Bamiyan province. It is a child's vest which features very intricate embroidered patterns in bright colors and in cotton floss, in cross stitch. The top is embellished with silver metallic threads and the vest is trimmed with green glass beads on the sides, center and bottom. The back is a purple cotton fabric. The lining on the inside is a blue cotton fabric with diamond motifs. There is an amulet on the front, at the bottom, composed of white, orange, yellow and green glass beads, placed there to protect against evil. The date of this piece is estimated to be 30-40 years old. The vest itself measures 12 1/4 x 11 1/2 inches across the front (31.1 x 29.2 cm) and the bottom band measures 1 1/4 x 16 inches (3.2 x 40.6 cm). Condition is excellent.

A hand-embroidered Hazara prayer cloth, made to protect the prayer stone, with a stylized depiction of the prayer niche, probably from Ghazni or Bamiyan province, circa mid 20th century. This exquisite embroidery on a white linen background depicts the severed hands of Hazrat Abbas, alluding to the battle of Kerbala. Silk thread in bright colors executed in a fine satin stitch and tassles on each of the four corners. These cloths are used in prayer to place the forehead. Condition of this textile is near excellent except for the slight brown staining in the upper right hand corner. This textile measures 38.1 x 39.4 cm.

A small embroidered tobacco pouch ("kochor") from Indus Kohistan. Measuring 13 x 13 cm, in extremely fine cross, tent and satin stitching in silk thread, the edges and front surface embellished with red, green and white beadwork. Estimated age: mid 20th century. Condition: overall good but with some staining on the reverse. Indus Kohistan is located in the province of Pakistan formerly known as the North-West Frontier Province (NWFP), recently re-named Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. The Indus Kohistan region extends from the border with Azad Kashmir in the east to Afghanistan's Nuristan province in the west. In Persian, Kohistan means "land of mountains" ("koh" meaning mountains, "istaan" meaning land of).

This Turkman Yomut's child's cap from Herat measures 17.8 cm in diameter and 49.5 cm in circumference, 5.5 cm in height. It is estimated to date to the mid 20th century and is in excellent condition. The embroidery technique is cotton thread in a tightly worked satin stitch on a light beige cotton ground.

A knotted pile hat from northern Afghanistan, made by Uzbeks. Diameter is 18 cm, circumference 51.5 cm. Circa mid to late 20th century. Condition is excellent.

This is a tobacco pouch from Indus Kohistan in Pakistan, probably from Kolai or Palas Valley. Circa mid 20th century. It is embroidered in an extremely fine, solidly worked brick stitch in various colored silk threads on a black cotton background. The outer edges of the bag are embellished with beaded tassles. One side of the purse features zigzag motifs, the other, interlocking diamond motifs. The purse also features a little string that tightens the purse at the top and is used to hang the pouch from the huqqa (water-pipe). The pouch measures 10.8 x 12.1 cm; including the beadwork, it measures 14 x 20.3 cm. Condition is perfect.

An envelope-shaped purse from Jaghori area of Ghazni province, Afghanistan, circa 1930. The silk embroidery is very dense, combining satin stitches with brick stitches into an alternating geometric pattern of zigzags and diamonds. The borders of the purse echo with similar triangular designs. The bag is lined in fine green cotton. Pompoms and buttons are used as highlights, with a card-woven braid serving as a closure. The edging is overstitched in alternating green and brown. These purses are used to hold treasures, with smaller versions made for kohl. 6 1/2 x 10 1/2 inches when opened, 5 1/2 x 6 1/2 inches when closed.

In the high valleys of Indus Kohistan the children still wear hats such as this one, made of tent stitch, fine cross stitch and metallic amulets to ward off the evil eye. Silk thread on cotton ground, accented with beading, sea shells, pompoms, and metal trinkets. Estimated age mid 20th century. Condition of this hat is excellent. No holes, no fraying, no stains. Diameter is 7 inches, circumference 18 inches.

This is a nice example of the ubiquitous "doga", embroidered talismans common to all the Turkic peoples of Central Asia. This amulet was made to protect the family from any evil influences from the world outside from affecting family health and harmony. This doga is from Bamiyan province, Afghanistan. Circa mid to late 20th century. Condition is overall good but there are some small sections of embroidery that are a little worn out. Cross stitch combines with satin and herringbone stitch to maximum effect in this unique little textile. The triangle measures 17.5 x 17 cm, with the tassles, 17.5 x 18 cm.

This child's cap from the from the high valleys of Indus Kohistan is dated to the mid-late 20th century and embellished with cowry shells, white beads and metal snaps and trinkets. The embroidery is tent stitch worked in cotton thread, forming interlocking diamond motifs on the crown. Condition: overall good, some fraying. Diameter is 7 inches, circumference 15 1/4 inches.

A child's cap embroidered in acrylic thread, tent stitch and satin stitch, it is embellished with pompoms, buttons, metal trinkets and white beads which are traditional decorative elements of Kohistani embroidery. Diameter is 16.5 cm, circumference 43 cm. Mid to late 20th century. Some fraying.

This charming little girl's cap from Indus Kohistan measures 21 cm in diameter and 44 cm in circumference. It is densely embroidered in silk thread on black cotton, a combination of extremely fine cross stitch (petit point) and satin stitch forming geometric patterns. As well, the cap is embellished with decorative trinkets including buttons, embossed silver discs, glass beads and tiny brass bells and pendants which are considered to have amuletic power. The vibrant pinks and magenta colors are characteristic of the embroidery of Swat Valley and Indus Kohistan. The cap dates to the late 20th century and has some slight fraying in one small area.

Measuring 15 x 16.5 this embroidered purse from Afghanistan is in excellent condition and dates to the mid to late 20th century. Silk thread on cotton, in satin stich and brick stitch. White beads on corded tassels surround the edges. Condition is excellent. Estimated age late 20th century.

A boy's sleeveless waistcoat from Indus Kohistan, located in the province of Pakistan formerly known as the North-West Frontier Province (NWFP), recently re-named Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. It is a superb piece, embroidered on black cotton fabric with mostly white glass seed beads and multi-colored buttons. The vest measures 14 inches by 15 inches (35.6 cm x 38.1 cm) and is estimated to date to the middle to late 20th century. The embroidery is extremely fine, mainly cross stitch in cotton thread, with some satin and back stitch forming diamond patterns and multi-colored triangles composed of several smaller triangles, each in a different color and with a contrasting border. The dominant color is red, then emerald green, orange, yellow and touches of royal blue. The condition of the waistcoat is excellent with no missing beads and no damage whatsoever. Kohistan literally means "Hilly Country" and refers to the sub-6000 meter peaks enclosing this remote canyon as well as those peaks in upper Swat and lower Dir.