Catalog: Vintage Arts: Regional Art: Asian (258)

This is a shepherd's wool coat from upper Chitral or Nuristan, depicting the branched "ram's horn" and tree of life designs reminiscent of the woollen garments and felts of central Asia. The mountainous area of Chitral adjoins the province of Nuristan in Afghanistan, a historical and geographic starting point for continuous trade routes into central Asia. The coat dates to either the mid or late 20th century and is in excellent condition given its age. The embroidery technique is chain stitch in woollen thread. It measures 35" (90 cm) across, and 32" (81 cm) in length. The sleeve openings are 10" (25 cm). The bust measures 20" (51 cm). There is an inner flap behind the front opening, and a gap under the arm instead of a gusset.

This embroidered shield-shaped panel ("Uut kap Ilgitsh") made of thick red velvet would traditionally be one of a pair, to protect the ends of yurt poles which are tied into bunches on a pack animal's back while in transit to a new location. These bags have both protective and decorative functions. The repeating embroidered ram's horn motif in metallic couching evokes the animal art of the Central Asian steppes. This motif is an ancient one, found on many Central Asian textiles including felts from the Pazyryk burials of the Iron Age Scythian horsemen. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century. Embroidered, appliqued on red cotton velvet, tasseled. Measures 7.62 cm x 38.1 cm including tassels. Probably Kirghiz or Kazakh.

This beautiful textile was made by Pashtun nomadic tribeswomen of Hazarajat. It measures 52 x 65 cm without the fringes (57 x 71 cm including the fringes). Shisha (mirrors) illuminate the textile and are fastened by buttonhole stitches, surrounded by volute designs worked in a very fine ladder stitch in silk thread on a dark purple silk background. The design composition is framed throughout with woven metal-thread braid with blue and white beads edging the textile. Condition: Excellent. Circa: mid 20th century.

This is a child's helmet ("khohl") from Kohistan, an isolated mountainous region of northern Pakistan located on the river Indus. Metal zippers, white beaded fringes, silver pendants and mirrored discs all serve to guard against the djinn, or evil spirits. The helmet has a high peaked crown supported by inserted sticks of wood, and topped with a beaded tassel. The helmet falls into a V-shape over the shoulders and back, measuring 62 cm from the tassel to the shawl base. Circumference: 42 cm. Diameter: 12.5 cm. The embroidery technique is cross stitch and a very fine tent stitch in both cotton and acrylic thread on black cotton, depicting traditional tree of life and chevron motifs. For a parallel item refer to Colours of the Indus by N. Askari and R. Crill page 124 Fig. 196. Estimated age: late 20th century. It is in excellent condition.

A Baluchi saddle bag ("khurzeen") from the mid to late 20th century, measuring 47 x 109 cm. In wool ground with patterned bands in weft-faced, slit tapestry, half pile and half kilim. Strong plaited goat hair loops are attached which are interlaced when closing. Condition is excellent.

This child's dress front in cross stich from central Afghanistan dates to the mid to late 20th century. It measures 11¾ x 18 inches (29.8 x 45.7 cm). Traditional Hazara pieces (the smallest ethnic minority group of Afghanistan), like Pashtun pieces, have a yoke under the neckline from which gathered, long panels of fabric flow. Sleeves are normally wide, and they wear matching cuffed pants underneath. The garments are decorated with embroidery at the yoke, the collar, the bottom of the sleeves and the cuff of the pants. When a garment wears out, they remove the embroidered areas and re-use them in a new piece, so several generations might share some of the original outfit. This yoke features various diamond motifs in bright pink, yellow, green, maroon and blue in cotton floss embroidered in cross stitch. The neckline is an intricate pattern of densely embroidered metallic threads against a blue satin background. The back is lined with red and blue cotton fabric. This piece features an amulet on the bottom front, embroidered in metallic threads, placed there to protect against evil. The condition of the textile is excellent.

Measuring 18.5 x 28 cm when opened and 18.5 x 19.5 cm when closed, this pair of purses are from Katawaz in Paktika province, Afghanistan. The embroidery technique is an intricate ladder stitch depicting whirling solar motifs combined with button hole stitches around the mirrors ("shisha"). The purses also feature beaded discs ("gul-i-peron") intended to ward off the evil eye - the same function performed by the mirrors. Silk thread on a green silk background. Condition excellent. Estimated age mid 20th century.

A vintage Sindhi rilhi here re-designed into a modern cushion cover. Measures 39 x 64 cm and is in excellent condition. White cotton cording along the edges, with button hole stitching as the main attraction. Mirrors ("shisha") are used extensively in the embroideries of South Asia to attract the sunlight and also to repel the evil spirits ("jinn"). Estimated age mid to late 20th century. Cotton thread on a cotton ground. The textile is in excellent condition given its age, just some slight fraying.

This old Uzbek napramach (also known as a mafrash among the Turkmen tribes) is from northern Afghanistan and is embroidered in silk thread on a grey plainweave cotton background. The medallion and geometric motifs reflect the Greek artistic legacy which influenced the urban weaving workshops of Bactria, a satrap of Alexander the Great's eastern empire. Similar motifs are found in ancient Greek vase designs and also in Chinese neolithic pottery. This textile measures 44 x 100 cm with some considerable fraying consistent with its age (mid 20th century). The embroidery technique is a very fine ladder stitch combined with herringbone stitch. The background lining is a blue printed fabric from Russia. Napramach is the Uzbek word for small bag - such nomadic textiles are traditionally utilized by nomadic women to store their personal belongings.

This Uzbek textile from northern Afghanistan is called a "bolim posh" meaning a canopy held over the bride and groom at the wedding ceremony. Embroidered in couching stitch ("basma") in mostly silk thread on a fine linen ground, it measures 125 W x 134 cm L. Some minor staining consistent with its age (mid to late 20th century). The stylized sun discs and flowers suggest the influence of ancient Scythian forms (for similar examples see Janet Harvey's book Traditional Textiles of Central Asia, pp 122-123).

A pair of sleeve cuffs from Katawaz in Ghazni province, early to mid 20th century. Measuring 36.2 x 54 cm, they are stitched in bergundy silk thread on two fine white linen cloths. The overall design is a densely arranged pattern of repeating whorl designs and curvilinear motifs, flanked by two eight-pointed stars on both ends. The embroidery technique is a tightly worked ladder stitch, a characteristic feature of the small purses from Katawaz. This textile is in very good condition but with a stain on one corner.

A Labijar kilim in slitweave from northern Afghanistan. It measures 70 x 96 cm and is hand knotted from sheep's wool. Late 20th century.

Embroidered purses ("bushkiri") are used by the Baluch for carrying and storing valuables and bridal dowry gifts. This purse from Baluchistan measures 20.3 x 32.5 cm when opened, 19.2 x 20 cm when closed, and is dated to the early to mid 20th century. This densely worked purse features intricate repeating geometric patterns and colors worked in a delicate satin stitch, combined with a meticulously worked interlacing stitch on a fine linen ground. The renowned vibrancy of Baluchi embroidery can be seen in this piece by the complex division of the design into contrasting areas of densely worked embroidery, intricately arranged into a wider design field of triangular motifs. The vertical lines, divided by rows of chain stitch in black thread held by small white stitches, are typical of Baluchi work. Baluchistan is the largest but most sparsely populated province of Pakistan, largely inhabited by nomadic and semi-nomadic groups whose culture and traditions are quite distinct from the other ethnic groups of Pakistan. The condition of this purse is good, some discoloration on the purse flap.

This child's waistcoat is from Indus Kohistan, located in the province of Pakistan formerly known as the North-West Frontier Province (NWFP), recently re-named Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. It is a superb piece, embroidered on black cotton fabric and embellished with coins, multicolored glass seed beads and pearly buttons. The vest measures 32 cm by 37 cm with the neck yoke measuring 11 cm. It is estimated to date to the middle to late 20th century. The embroidery is extremely fine, mainly cross and satin stitch in silk thread, with some back stitch forming diamond and chevron patterns. The dominant color is red, with emerald green, orange, yellow and royal blue. The triangular shape at the bottom of each beaded tassel on the front of the vest are called "doga" and have a long tradition of use as talismans in central Asia and other ancient cultures. The condition of the waistcoat is excellent with no missing beads and no damage whatsoever. Kohistan literally means "Hilly Country" and refers to the sub-6000 meter peaks enclosing this remote canyon as well as those peaks in upper Swat and lower Dir.

This pair of embroidered squares were made by Pashtun nomad tribeswomen of Hazarajat. They dazzle the eye with their vibrant colors and mirrored discs ("gul-i-peron") which enliven the quadrants of each textile. Each square measures 24.5 x 24.5 cm and is embroidered in silk thread on a green silk background, depicting radiating solar motifs in a carefully composed symmetry. A meticulously worked ladder stitch forms the whorl designs central to the composition which is framed by silver metallic thread, with the edges fringed with beadwork. Condition is excellent. Estimated age: late 20th century.

Measuring 10¾ inches x 16 inches, this child's dress front is from Jaghori in Ghazni province. Estimated age is mid 20th century. The embroidery is amazingly precise, fine cross stitch in silk thread, while the back is a pink printed fabric probably from Russia. The edges are adorned with metallic Bokhara couching and a gold braid that frames the overall design. The bottom tabs depict rosettes in silk floss in satin stitch on white cotton. Condition of this piece is almost excellent, but there is some fraying at the shoulder hems.

This dress yoke from Bamiyan province measures 34.5 x 41 cm and is embroidered in fine cross stitch in pink, yellow, green and purple silk thread. Traditional Afghan dresses have a yoke under the neckline from which long panels of fabric flow. Sleeves are typically wide, and they wear matching cuffed pants underneath. The garments are decorated with embroidery at the yoke, the bottom of the sleeves, and the cuff of the pants. When a garment wears out they remove the embroidered areas and re-use them in a new piece so that their progeny may share some of the original outfit. Condition: Excellent. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century.

Magenta silk thread is worked in mostly horizontal rows with geometric patterns superimposed in random coloring on this child's waistcoat from the early 20th century. It features metallic couching on the top and bottom edges, with blue beads in the front to ward off the evil eye. Satin stitch combines with Holbein and back stitch to accentuate the lozenge designs that cover the entire surface of each panel. The Mangal are the largest, and perhaps the most powerful and influential of Pashtun tribes, residing in southeastern Paktia and adjacent Khost provinces of Afghanistan and over the Pakistani border in Waziristan. This charming textile is in excellent condition with three rows of missing beads (to be mended by the seller). The back panel is a plainweave striped cotton. The front of the shirt measures 29.8 x 33 cm, and each waistband measures 4 x 17.1 cm.

A Kuchi dress from Afghanistan from the second half of 20th century. The dress bodice has a front slit with button closure, and dense silk embroidery adorns the bodice, sleeve ends, and bottom hem. The embroidery is mostly satin stitch, with ladder stitch and herringbone stitch on black cotton. The embroidered sleeve bands and bottom embroidered band are 2 inches in width. The printed fabric is cotton, with small turquoise, yellow and red motifs on a black background. Condition of the dress is overall excellent, except for small sections where the embroidery has worn thin, mostly around the neckline, sleeve bands, and bottom hem band. Bodice: 11 3/4 x 15 1/2". Bust: 20" (armpit to armpit). Waist: 17". Hips: 32". Sleeve length (armpit to sleeve hem): 23". Shoulder to sleeve hem: 28 1/4". Shoulders: 4 1/4". Bodice front slit: 4". Sleeve opening: 19". Total length of dress: 53". Bottom hem of dress: 98".

Pompoms adorn the edges of this densely embroidered textile made by the Kakarh tribe of Afghanistan. Metallic couching combined with Holbein, herringone and satin stitching characterize this piece. The reverse side is lined in plainweave striped cotton. The Kakarh have descendants in western provinces of Pakistan but are mostly found in Afghanistan and eastern Iran. This textile is in perfect condition and measures 20 x 31 1/2 inches (50.8 x 80 cm). Estimated age: mid 20th century.

This vintage Hazara waistcoat from Jaghori in central Afghanistan is embroidered in extremely fine cross stitch in silk thread, depicting interlocking eight star motifs, a traditional motif in Hazara embroidery. The collar, shoulder bands and side panels are meticulously worked in Bukhara stitching in metallic thread, where the couched threads are laid in parallel to each other and are fastened by small stitches. The curvilinear forms form a surface pattern of a neat grid of lines which in themselves create geometric motifs in relief. The yoke measures 28.5 cm from the shoulder hem to the bottom hem, 26.5 cm across the front panel, and 44 cm across with the triangular side panels included. From the collar to the bottom hem the textile measures 28.5 cm. Condition is excellent. Estimated age mid to late 20th century.

This Tibetan wool sash measures 12.7 cm x 340.4 cm in length including the silky fringes. The tigma (cross) motif is an ancient good luck charm among Tibetans and here it is depicted in a discontinuous weft pattern design. These sashes are traditionally worn to secure the traditional Tibetan attire called a chuba. The high lustre of the wool is attributed to the high lanolin content of the goat wool in the high altitude regions of the Tibetan plateau. The last photo shows a typical loom on which these sashes are woven. Condition: Excellent. Mid to late 20th century.

Dated to the mid 20th century, this cushion cover (thakia) measures 15¼ inches x 30 inches (38.7 cm x 76.2 cm). As the Hazara district is situated between Punjab and Swat, the embroidery of this area is stylistically very similar to that of the Swat Valley. However, these pieces are generally more complex in design and construction. This piece is embroidered on both sides with silk on a cotton background in a predominantly geometric pattern. On one side, the space is stabilized by two center diamonds and an elaborate grid of squares and diagonals with the borders in perfect symmetry. These embroidery patterns are very dense and tightly constructed, with strategic touches of color and the utilization of negative space to maximum effect. The other side is embroidered in varous shades of pink, purple and sage green silk threads in a predominantly fine satin stitch counted-thread work on a mustard yellow background. These pillow covers are traditionally made for weddings. The condition of the textile is very good with no stains but some slight discoloration on the yellow side.

Depicting curling horned and star patterns, this wedding textile from the Hazara district of Pakistan, in the province of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa (formerly known as NWFP) is densely embroidered in silk floss thread on a black cotton ground. It measures 70 x 77.5 cm and is in excellent condition. The motifs are curvilinear and embroidered in dark red in a combination of satin stitch and long and short stitch, outlined with a top stitch of golden silk floss. Estimated age: late 20th century.

An Uzbek mafrash panel from northern Afghanistan, mid to late 20th century. Silk embroidery in cross stitch, measuring 16 1/4 x 40 1/4 inches (41.3 cm x 102.2 cm). Condition: Excellent. The reverse side of this textile is lined in purple silk with an ikat hem.

Embroidered in vivid turquoise silk floss with a top stitch of golden silk floss, this woman's shawl ("phulkari") from Swat Valley measures 97 cm x 198 cm and is in excellent condition. The designs are stylized rosettes with densely embroidered borders and a medallion motif in the center. Black is the dominant color for the background of Swati embroideries, which share many motifs in common with the embroidery from Hazara district. The unique motifs on this wedding shawl suggest Chinese influence and similar stylized floral patterns are found on Tibetan scrolls. The curvilinear motifs and dense areas of stitchery are composed of the characteristic "phulkari" stitch which resembles a satin stitch but only on the front side. It is embroidered from the reverse side on a plainwoven coarse cloth known as "khaddar". This shawl is estimated to date to the late 20th century.

Embroidered in satin stitch in silk thread on a fine cotton linen ground, this napkin measures 37.2 x 37.8 cm and is estimated to date from the mid to late 20th century. Such textiles are unique to the Hazara, Shi'ite Muslims who comprise the third largest ethnic group of Afghanistan, forming about 19% of the total population and inhabiting mostly the central provinces of central Afghanistan. This textile is in excellent condition overall with only one small stain.

This is a vintage child's front from Paktia province in eastern Afghanistan. It measures 25 x 28 cm and is densely embroidered in silk thread in a tightly worked ladder stitch. The sides, shoulder and waist straps are executed in Bukhara stitching where the metallic threads are carefully laid in parallel and then meticulously fastened down with a cotton thread. This textile is estimated to date to the mid 20th century and is in excellent condition.

This is a bed decoration from northern Afghanistan made by Uzbeks of the Lakai tribe. Traditionally these textiles were placed between layers of bedding quilts at the back of the yurt. This segusha measures 72 x 80 x 115 cm when folded into a triangle, and the embroidery is silk thread on faded red cotton edged with silk fringes, combining satin stitch with long and short stitch. The overall design is dense but not overcrowded, depicting stylized flowers, insects and birds, evoking the image of a garden in bloom. The outline of one unfinished detail can be seen in the upper right hand corner (enlargement #4). Condition: Excellent on the front, but there are some small stains on the reverse side of the textile. Estimated age: mid 20th century.

Measuring 29 x 37 cm this child's waistcoat is from Indus Kohistan. Condition is excellent, and it dates to the mid 20th century. The embroidery technique is straight stitch in silk thread on a black cotton background, embellished with white glass beads and buttons. Kohistan has a rich local history as a crossroads between Central, South and Southwestern Asia. Predominantly inhabited by Dardic and Pashtun tribes since ancient times, Kohistan has been invaded and contested by Persians, Greeks, Scythians, Kushans, Turks, Mughals, and the British.

Typical of the mountainous Swat valley in northern Pakistan, this cushion cover ("thakia" in Urdu) is distinguished by a purple cotton background embroidered in a bright pink, with yellow and sage highlights. This amazing piece measures 14 1/8 inches x 30 inches (36.1 cm x 76.2 cm). Swati embroidery patterns are traditionally handed down from mother to daughter and these are the typical color contrasts. In Swat, the embroidery is called bagh, meaning flower garden. Elsewhere in Pakistan it is called phulkari, an Urdu word derived from phul, meaning flower. Swati textiles like this one ultimately express a local aesthetic. This piece is embroidered with floss silk in a predominantly geometric pattern, with the space stabilized by two centered diamonds and decorated with borders in perfect symmetry. Swati embroidery patterns are typically dense and tightly constructed, breaking up the surface plane as no other Pakistani folk tradition does. These pillow covers are traditionally made for weddings. There are button closures on the end opening and four tassles at each corner. The condition of the textile is excellent. Circa second half of 20th century.

Typical of the mountainous Swat valley in northern Pakistan, this cushion cover is distinguished by the black cotton background embroidered in a zinging, shocking pink. This amazing piece measures 12¼ inches x 32 inches (31.1. cm x 81.3 cm). Swati embroidery patterns are traditionally handed down from mother to daughter and these are the typical color contrasts. In Swat, the embroidery is called bagh or flower garden. Elsewhere in Pakistan it is called phulkari, an Urdu word derived from phul, meaning flower. Swati textiles like this one ultimately express a local aesthetic. This piece is embroidered with floss silk in a predominantly geometric pattern, with the space stabilized by two centered medallions and decorated with borders in perfect symmetry. Swati embroidery patterns are typically dense and tightly constructed, breaking up the surface plane as no other Pakistani folk tradition does. The embroidery is exquisitely fine satin stitch counted-thread work in silk thread. These cushion covers are traditionally made for weddings. The condition of the textile is excellent. The last enlargement was taken of the reverse side of the piece showing the intricate embroidery.

A densely embroidered pillow cover from Hazara district in Pakistan, circa 1950. This pillow cover was made for a wedding. Curling horn and star patterns are typical of the embroidery of the Hazara district, resembling both in design and technique the phulkaris of Punjab province. In this district it is typically accomplished from the reverse - the designs are outlined with one running stitch, then the outlines are filled in with another. The characteristic phulkari stitch of closely placed, parallel threads resembles a satin stitch. In shades of pink, purple, green and yellow floss silk on a white cotton background, with covered button enclosures on all sides and yellow tassles on the corners, this lovely piece measures 16 x 32 inches. Condition is perfect, with no holes, stains, nor fraying.

This cushion cover from Swat Valley measures 45 x 78.5 cm and is in excellent condition. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century. The dark red embroidery depicts the typical ram's horn pattern seen not only in Swati embroideries but also in other Central Asian textiles. This pattern is juxtaposed with the repeating diamond motif - a stylistic feature of Swat and Hazara embroideries - seen here in the white checkered borders done in filling stitch and Holbein stitch. Silk floss thread on black cotton, in mostly long and short stitch.

A prayer cloth (mohr posh) embroidered by Hazara women, probably originating from Ghazni, Uruzgan or Bamiyan province. These prayer cloths are unique to the Hazara and are used to wrap the Shi'a prayer stone, called the mohr. At the time of prayer, the stone is laid on the cloth so that the worshipper touches with his forehead the small square where the stone is placed. The stone depicts the mosque and minarets of Karbela. Strong geometric patterns have been embroidered in satin stitch in bright colors. Though the patterns are stiff and regular, showing no individuality, the constant change of color, and particularly the white beaded fringes and embroidered borders, animate it. It is a very delicate and subtle piece, measuring 23 x 23 inches (58.4 x 58.4 cm).

A vintage Hmong textile from Laos, carefully crafted into a cushion cover backed with soft black pig suede. The cushion measures 11 1/4" x 15 1/2" with a 100% polyester insert. The textile itself consists of machine embroidery and reverse applique with some intricately worked hand embroidery as accents. The spirals symbolize longevity. Estimated age mid to late 20th century. Condition is overall great with some very minor fraying.