Catalog: Archives: Estate Jewelry (467)

One of the few females of Taxco - at least, one of the few whose name we actually know - Erika Hult de Corral 's creations can be impressive, exhibiting genuine creativity and a certain sense of comfort within the realm of modernist design. I particularly like her "moonscape" pieces, partly because I first learned about her years ago when I happened upon such a necklace and earrings set by her...

A trained painter and sculptor, Enrique Ledesma became one of the foremost modernist designers in Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance. Many of his pieces were sold through Plateria Cortes and the brooch presented here is just such an example. Generous in size, it combines oxidation and overlay with deep chasing on heavy gauge silver sheet and epitomizes Ledesma's sense of fluidity and abstraction in the best possible way...

Stupendous Rivera sterling silver necklace in emulation of Matilde Poulat's bejeweled jewelry, this is an early piece, very well made and an excellent alternative for all of us who either can't find a Matl or shy away from the prices her creations command. Constructed of two-part, articulated links the necklace sits like a dream around the neck and feels royal...

Beautifully rendered emulations of Margot de Taxco's koi fish earrings, this pair is signed by a maker who is known among collectors of vintage Mexican jewelry for his prowess in the art of repoussage and the high quality of his work. I think the point I am trying to make is amply illustrated by the bold repousse, the dark oxidation in the recesses of the design and the care that went into the finishing touches...

Vintage Chinese silver brooch in the form of a phoenix, the bird's magnificence illustrated with vibrant enamels. This is one of the most attractive pins I have had recently - I also love its size; not tiny nor overwhelmingly big, it can be worn easily even every day. In excellent vintage condition with absolutely no losses in the enamel (just a couple of very tight, short surface cracks here and there) and the vermeil in very good shape as well...

Gorgeous vintage pair of Georg Jensen dangle earrings in a repousse leaf and berry design designated as no 32A on their back. Sculpturality, exquisite patina and the unparalleled crispness in the design's execution transform the pair into a veritable miniature work of art. The earrings measure 1 1/2" long by 3/4" wide and the set weighs 9.2 grams. Both pieces are signed on the back with Jensen's post-1945 hallmark as shown in addition to the design number and "STERLING DENMARK"...

Out of her taller, which opened in 1953, Emma Melendez, niece to renowned maestro Rafael Melendez, sold hand-wrought silver jewelry by her and other known or still unidentified makers, Jose Luis Flores, Francisco Rivera and Victor Jaimez being among them. The cuff bracelet at hand, in an ornate "Old World" design, ties together stylized heart elements cut out of thick silver sheet, deeply chased and oxidized...

Perfect for this summer's romantic bride an old Taxco, fan-shaped crown hair comb topped by repousse sterling spheres with cut-out designs and geometric motifs chased into it. Gorgeous and sooo romantic, it brings to mind Spanish lace, steamy hot temperaments and ladies with almond-shaped eyes... The comb measures 4 1/8" tall by 3 1/8" wide (at its widest, at the top) and weighs a good 20.2 grams...

I have a weakness for big, hinged bangle bracelets and am always on the look-out for interesting designs. And this one really caught my attention! Early, dating in the pre-1948 period, and adorned with three gorgeous alexandrite simulants, it is also diamond-etched and boasts stylized foliate cut-outs...

Often referred to as the "Spratling of Peru", Graziella Laffi needs no introduction to the knowledgeable collector of vintage Peruvian silver jewelry. Inspired by the country's rich pre-Colombian heritage which she interpreted in a mod, timeless way, Laffi's pieces are sought-after and just a pleasure to have and behold. The hand-hammered necklace at hand, oxidized and endearingly assymetrical, has four figural, sculptural charms hanging off it...

A talented silversmith and good designer, Alfredo Villasana is known not only for his original pieces (which I truly appreciate for their imaginative design and perfect finishing) but for his high quality emulations of pieces that were first issued by the big talleres, usually of the Los Castillo and Margot de Taxco ones. I am not sure whether the fabulous pectoral I am presenting here comes up with either the Los Castillo or Margot signatures in the specific configuration of elements yet the...

An early Los Castillo creation as indicated by the low design number it comes with, this is a cuff with daring, sweeping lines intensified by the taller's bold repoussage and the patina it has acquired over time. It is not a coincidence that the Los Castillo family ranks among the premier designers and silvermsiths of Taxco's 20th c. Silver Renaissance...

What can I say about this truly rare, amazing find? Early, early Mexican repousse bracelet, similar to Matilde Poulat's first creations, it is wrought of 900 silver and probably hails from Mexico City. I believe that this is an early A. Tobias piece based on the raised initials "T.A." that are part of the hallmarks and also on the style, date and workmanship...

The combination of copper and sterling is one of the best moments of vintage Mexican silver jewelry - just take a look at the necklace presented here with its highly detailed silver koi fish hugging warmly mellowed copper semi-spheres. A known Los Castillo design, most presumably also a Margot creation from the period she was fascinated by Japanese art, I just never tire of it nor any of its known variations...

Based on Matilde Poulat's "Paloma" design, the necklace at hand is only hallmarked with Eagle 1 assay mark, which was also used by Matl herself. Its quality and workmanship as you can see is such that justifies the assumption that it might easily have come out of the big maestra's workshop - the repousse dove is carefully rendered; the stones are beautiful and tightly set; and the silver work bespeaks the time and effort the necklace's maker put into crafting it...

A mystery maker - nothing is known about him/her despite the fact that the specific signature is referred to in the literature - the creator of this hinged, mutli-row bead and turquoise bracelet did a amazing job indeed! Repousse beaded bracelets of this type come in various widths and silver/stone combinations. I have seen them with amethyst, black onyx and obsidian and love the turquoise variation. What is rarer and more difficult to find - hence more sought after - is the extra wide exampl...

An early design for the Los Castillo taller, I don't know what one would call this piece if not iconic and classic. In my mind, the "fern" motif is closely associated with vintage Mexican clamper bracelets. It has been produced for decades due to its popularity and demand and can be found with all kinds of signatures or simple "generic" Deco hallmarks. Yet when you experience the substantial presence of the Los Castillo rendition, when you hold it in your hands and feel the weight, when you ...

The second Erika Hult de Corral bracelet currently in my inventory (please look for item no 1189406 as well), this piece is absolutely fabulous. Quite substantial yet still comfortable to wear, its mod sterling links are studded with green, mossy agates. The bracelet feels divine around the wrist and as rare as Ric bracelets are, the specific design is even more difficult to come upon. With an inner circumference of 6 5/8" (clasped), it is perfect for smaller to medium wrists. Its width comes u...