Catalog: Vintage Arts: Regional Art: Asian: Central Asian (221)

A pair of old Uzbek sleeve embroideries dated to the mid to late 20th century. They measure 14.5 x 36 cm combined together. Cross stitch in silk thread depicting geometric motifs on a cotton ground. Condition: Excellent.

A hand-embroidered Turkman Yomut nomad's skullcap from Herat dated to the early to mid 20th century. Exceptionally fine ladder stitch combined with satin stitch and couching in silk thread. Condition is very good, just some tiny stains. Diameter: 18 cm, circumference 48.5 (approx. 19 inches).

This child's cap from Indus Kohistan, Pakistan is dated to the mid 20th century and measures 7 cm in diameter, 42 cm in circumference. Kohistan in Persian means "land of mountains" and has two distinct meanings in Pakistan. In Persian "koh" means "peak" and "istaan" means "land of". Kohistan is one of the most isolated and the most deprived districts, not only in Hazara Division but in the entire Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province of Pakistan. This child's cap shows the typical decorative amulets of Indus Kohistan embroidery, with coiled zippers, buttons, plastic poppers and beads. The embroidery work is exceptionally fine cross stitch (petit point) and satin stitch in silk thread and acrylic thread on black cotton. Condition of the cap is excellent.

This small pouch from Hazara district in Pakistan measures 12 x 15.5 cm and is hand-embroidered in extremely fine satin stitch in silk thread. Its age is approximately early to mid 20th century. Condition is near excellent, two light stains on one face. As the Hazara district is situated between Punjab and Swat, the embroidery of this area is stylistically very similar to that of the Swat Valley.

This charming little girl's cap from Indus Kohistan measures 21 cm in diameter and 44 cm in circumference. It is densely embroidered in silk thread on black cotton, a combination of extremely fine cross stitch (petit point) and satin stitch forming geometric patterns. As well, the cap is embellished with decorative trinkets including buttons, embossed silver discs, glass beads and tiny brass bells and pendants which are considered to have amuletic power. The vibrant pinks and magenta colors are characteristic of the embroidery of Swat Valley and Indus Kohistan. The cap dates to the late 20th century and has some slight fraying in one small area.

This Uzbek suzani from northern Afghanistan dates to the mid 20th century or later and measures 76 x 99 cm including the fringes. The textile is hand-embroidered in silk thread in vivid colors on a green rayon ground with copper encrustations throughout, and edged on two sides with crocheted silk fringe. Couching stitch ("basma") is the embroidery technique. The textile is reversible and either face may be used as the front. Condition is overall very good, but with some dye run and one small tear from the metal accents. The combination of abstract floral designs and moon-disc motifs are characteristic of Uzbek suzani.

This is a bed decoration from northern Afghanistan made by Uzbeks of the Lakai tribe. Traditionally these textiles were placed between layers of bedding quilts at the back of the yurt. This segusha measures 72 x 80 x 115 cm when folded into a triangle, and the embroidery is silk thread on faded red cotton edged with silk fringes, combining satin stitch with long and short stitch. The overall design is dense but not overcrowded, depicting stylized flowers, insects and birds, evoking the image of a garden in bloom. The outline of one unfinished detail can be seen in the upper right hand corner (enlargement #4). Condition: Excellent on the front, but there are some small stains on the reverse side of the textile. Estimated age: mid 20th century.

An Uzbek ikat-dyed silk ceremonial robe (chapan) from northern Afghanistan, quilted with cotton interlining. Condition is overall good, albeit with some minor staining. It is hand-sewn and densely embroidered along the front collar, bottom hem and wrist cuffs. The inside of the collar is lined with traditional Russian printed fabric. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century. Measurements are provided below. 136.5 cm from the neckline to the bottom hem (measured from the back of the coat); 37.5 cm measured from the base of the collar to the shoulder hem; 88.9 cm measured from the fullest part of the chest/bust; 68.6 cm sleeve length.

This cushion cover from Swat Valley measures 45 x 78.5 cm and is in excellent condition. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century. The dark red embroidery depicts the typical ram's horn pattern seen not only in Swati embroideries but also in other Central Asian textiles. This pattern is juxtaposed with the repeating diamond motif - a stylistic feature of Swat and Hazara embroideries - seen here in the white checkered borders done in filling stitch and Holbein stitch. Silk floss thread on black cotton, in mostly long and short stitch.

Measuring 38.5 x 86 cm, this cushion cover from Hazara District in Pakistan is in excellent condition. As the Hazara district is situated between Punjab and Swat, the embroidery of this area is stylistically very similar to that of the Swat Valley. However, these pieces are generally more complex in design and construction. On one face of this textile the space is stabilized by two central medallions set within an elaborate network of octagons, diamonds and ram's horns in perfect symmetry. These motifs are very tightly constructed and densely embroidered, with subtle variations in hue and the utilization of negative space to maximum effect. The other face depicts a grid of eight-pointed stars embroidered in subtle gradations of pink and purple. These pillow covers ("thakia") are traditionally made for weddings. Mostly long and short stitch, cross stitch and satin stitch in silk floss thread, on a light pink cotton background. Condition: Excellent. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century.

Measuring 27 x 29 cm, this embroidery from Afghanistan is composed of mostly satin stitch in silk thread. The continuous supplementary-weft technique makes this textile reversible and either face may be used as the front. Condition: Excellent, no stains, no flaws of any kind.

This little girl's chemise was made by Uzbek women and measures 45 cm across the shoulders, 49 cm from the top to the bottom hem. Silk ikat combined with jajim and silk thread embroidered in long and short stitch. Condition is excellent.

Measuring 39 x 40.5 cm, this textile from Afghanistan astounds in its meticulous satin stitch in vibrant, multicolored silk thread. Condition is excellent. No stains, no odors, no flaws of any kind. Estimated age: mid 20th century. The continuous supplementary-weft technique makes this textile reversible and either face may be used as the front. "Consisting of, or generated from, such simple forms as the circle and the square, geometric patterns were combined, duplicated, interlaced, and arranged in intricate combinations, thus becoming one of the most distinguishing features of Islamic art. However, these complex patterns seem to embody a refusal to adhere strictly to the rules of geometry. As a matter of fact, geometric ornamentation in Islamic art suggests a remarkable amount of freedom; in its repetition and complexity, it offers the possibility of infinite growth and can accommodate the incorporation of other types of ornamentation as well..." see http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/geom/hd_geom.htm

This child's dress front from Paktya province, Afghanistan measures 24 x 24.5 cm and is embroidered in fine cross stitch in silk thread, depicting eight-pointed stars and amuletic motifs. Condition is excellent. Mid 20th century.

This lovely embroidery from Afghanistan measures 27 x 36 cm and depicts eight pointed stars in very fine cross stitch on a purple linen background, arranged in four quadrants. Circa mid to late 20th century. Condition: Excellent.

Measuring 8 x 36.5 cm, this embroidered band from northern Afghanistan was hand-embroidered by Uzbek women in an exceptionally fine cross stitch on a pumpkin linen background. Condition is excellent. Estimated age early to mid 20th century.

This Uzbek embroidery dating from the early to mid 20th century is embroidered on a mauve linen background. Two embroidered bands are joined together in exceptionally fine cross stitch and satin stitch to form interlocking geometric motifs and chevrons in silk thread. Condition is excellent. 15.5 x 34.5 cm.

This small Afghanistan textile is embroidered in extremely fine satin stitch with repetitive triangular motifs in silk thread on a silk background. The Hazara are the third largest ethnic group in Afghanistan, inhabiting mostly central Afghanistan (Ghazni and Bamiyan provinces). This piece was probably made during the winter months where the women are commonly cut off from the world for six months out of the year due to the extreme climate. The continuous supplementary-weft technique makes this textile reversible and either face may be used as the front. Condition is excellent. No stains, no flaws of any kind. Estimated age mid to late 20th century. It measures 20.3 x 20.8 cm.